Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Does anyone have a quick second to help me identify the starter and advise me on how to remove it? I'm pretty strapped right now, otherwise I'd go buy a Chilton's book.
Thanks.
Is this something of concern and needs to be fixed immediately.Any helpful comments will be greatly appreciated.
DG
Now, let's get a little more information to help you. What is the car doing when the gauge drops? Are you coasting down a hill? Are you at highway speeds and see it gradually drop?
As I see it, you have two possibilities - 1) the temperature sensor for the gauge is bad (it happens on Passats). 2) the thermostat is bad.
I have an '03. I started to notice that the temperature of the air from the heater was not the "melt your sneaker" hot anymore. Further, I noticed that this was occurring at highway speeds, but even worse if I coasted down a hill at highway speeds. Turned out my thermostat was sticking open ever so slightly.
GIve more details of when and how this is occurring and I'll bet we can narrow it down for you.
Thanks . You're right. It is the coolant temperature gauge that fluctuates.Once the engine warms up it reaches 190 then goes down a bit to 170 and then stays between 170,180 - 190. It happens on both highway or local roads. We are in the Twin Cities and do not have much hilly roads up here. Earlier it always used to stay at 190 constant after running for a few minutes.
I have not seen much of a difference in the temp. of the heated air but will pay more attention now that you mentioned. Does this require immediate attention.
Thanks in advance for your help. Appreciate it.
It stays 190 but when coasting down hill it drops one notch. When I start using power again it climbs back.
I got MIL (check engine light) and per Auto Zone it is cooling system efficiency problem.
Do you think broken thermostat could do this?
Krzys
Thanks,
DG
Took back to Dealer today to have them check the burning oil smell and possible leak...will not spring the independent shop on them until after I hear the verdict.
BTW - while the car was on the lift (at independent shop), I noticed some Hydralic fluid leaking from the motor mounts - not excessive, but something to be handled within the next year. :mad:
All I can tell you is that was the behavior of my car and the thermostat was found to be sticking open ever so slightly. Once it was replaced, I the Temp gauge behaved as it always did and the heat output of the HVAC returned to thermonuclear levels.
Initially, I noticed the car's interior wasn't getting as warm as it used to on the same settings, same external ambient temperature range. Then I started noticing the gauge would slip a notch or so on long coasts downhill (we got lots of hills here in SW PA).
The day I took it into get repaired, the ambient temp was -1 degree F. It was the first really cold day of the winter last year. I was very glad I had heated seats that day. The cabin just wouldn't warm up very much.
Driving home from the dealer, the temp was 10 degrees F. I took my parka off after a couple of miles of driving.
My temperature gauge used to dance before the sender unit was replaced during the recall. However it was different dance. It was going from 190 all the way to the left (cold) and then back to 190.
Krzys
I am a recent college grad with a 2003 1.8T AUTO Passat that I've had since high school. Frankly, I am in love with everything about the car...except reliability (of course). I have read most of these Edmunds pages to know there are many troubled Passats and came to the conclusion that I would just explain my car's situation and see what everyone's thoughts were.
Had absolutely no problems until at 60,000 miles, dealer fixed an oil leak and replaced the cam tensioner seals and valve cover gaskets.
Now at 72,000 miles. Recently went to the dealer for ignition coil recall. During the complimentary inspection they told me the FR/RT CV boot needed to be replaced as well as the serpentine belt. My car started to make a squealing noise in the dash when the heat is on and I figure that is why?
I figure if I pay to have the serpentine belt replaced I might as well doing the timing belt/water pump kit as well. (Thanks edmunds forums!)
KBB value of my car is $3700. CV boot + new tires + Timing belt + Water pump is maybe $1500 in Chicago.
Should I do all these repairs and cross my fingers the car holds up or dump it while I'm ahead?
The car handles like a dream and at I have yet to drive a car that rode as well or that I comfortably fit in (6'4" with no sunroof).
If you think I should replace it, can anyone recommend a replacement car they've found is similar to the Passat?
I'm tired of being worried to take my car long distances and face a large financial decision so any advice would be a huge benefit. Thanks.
Thus far I replaced the timing belt and water pump as recommended at 90,000 miles, CV boots and tires at 70,000 miles. Brake pads and belts have not been changed since inspection shows them to still be in good condition. In addition to this there was a recall on a break light switch that was taken care of on one of the routine maintenance stops. Gossett VW in Germantown, TN has provided all oil changes and repairs. The maintenance above has been scheduled and I have had no down time on the car.
On the highway the car gets 40+ miles per gallon and 32 in the city. At $2.60 per gallon for diesel the cost per mile is $0.065 per mile. Maintenance including oil changes has been $0.033 per mile. This is a total cost of $098 per mile not counting the cost of the initial investment. I paid $20,000 for the car at the end of 2005. Amortizing this over 200,000 miles will equate to another $0.10 per mile. The cost of insurance has been $700 per year for 4 years (99,700 miles) or $0.028 per mile. The total cost at 200,000 miles will be $0.226 per mile. I consider this to be an acceptable cost for a good quality car. This brief analysis demonstrates that the capital cost of a car is by far the largest cost and can only be minimized by amortizing the cost over a lot of miles. Maintenance is cheap in comparison. In this day of rising fuel cost, one must really question the wisdom of owing huge cars that consume 93 octane gasoline running at 12 miles per gallon.
What is your experience with the TDI?
Chuck
I'm basing this opinion on the presumption, which of course can be challenged, that running two German cars over 100K and out of warranty is somewhat risky.
I wish the Saab was still available with a good company in the background. The Saab with a manual shift was the best car I ever owned and there was nothing boring about that car.
Good luck to all who own Passats.
I truly do not believe that the President of VW and the chief designer would allow their family to be subjected to this kind of treatment and would make sure that a solution would be found quickly for loyal VW owner.(My 3rd. VW)
This situation is more than just water coming out of the doors:
1. Water coming out of the doors getting your feet wet.
2. I live in Ga and temperature goes below 32 degrees and water will freeze in the doors. What happens to the workings to the windows and other working parts???
3. Rust and mildew can form.
Has anyone also found the same problem with their Passat or any other VW???
Please advise.
Thank you
If you see a substantial amount of water IN the doors, then either the squeegee (rubber horizontal seal that seals the window as it rolls into the door) is defective or misaligned, or the moisture barriers inside the door might have been forgotten at the factory.
Bizarre situation on a new car I must say. Doors do have drains for very *tiny* amouts of water that might accumulate but this kind of water intrusion is simply not right.
The passat has been in the shop every 6 months and has 70,000 miles on it. He loves the car but is tired of bumming rides to the dealer to pick it up :-)
If it makes you feel any better the new VW's are way better than the pre 2005's
My wife has the 1.8t - Jetta terrible engine but we'll probably replace it with a new TDI Jetta way better car!
Pre -2000 engines had other HG issues crop up at high miles then again my old Toyota went through three head gaskets before I sold it.
The 2005 and newer VW's are light years better than they were pre 2005. Wifes 2001 jetta looks new just broke 55,000 miles - its been a disaster doors coming loose - rattles from loose interior brackets - coilpack failures - leaks. Failed idle sensor which stranded us etc - etc.
Passats of course (used ones) we have to watch timing belts and sludging.
The leak was external meaning coolant leaking out of the head down the side of the engine and onto the ground. Not into the engine where it damages cylinder heads and such like a "blown Head gasket" does.
This took place from around 99 to 2001due to the gasket used.
That's the thing with these weaknesses we see in various cars---if not addressed immediately, they turn into far worse things. Would I stretch a Passat timing belt to the very limits of lifespan? No way. Would I neglect to use synthetic oil in the turbo engine? No way.
I had a heater hose fail on my landcruiser it took me nearly a day to figure out where the heck the coolant was coming from. Took me another 3hrs to fix it with $10 worth of parts. It could have been a full engine replacement easily if I didn't notice and check the coolant.
New fancy high tech cars with plastic covers over the complicated bits under the hood are no different you still need to pay attention to them. Though most people get ticked off when something small goes from no big deal to really big deal in a hurry.
Anyone else?
I believe I mentioned the cost of the thermostat was $180. My mechanic wouldn't even estimate the cost of labour but said he would likely have to carve out the best part of a day. He told me to forget it. I was not prepared to put another $500 + into this junk heap. I have driven 5,000 mi since then. But the car is for sale and I hope nothing else goes wrong while it just sits in the driveway waiting for a buyer.
Cost with oil change (my own filter and oil) ~182.00.
1.5 hour job per my mechanic claim,
Thanks for solution.
Krzys
Do you turn on heat and blast it into windshield during such weather?
Krzys
The first time I drove to Chicago from Memphis in the winter the whole windshield washer system froze. I put it in the garage and let it thaw, drained the fluid and replaced with the proper fluid, flushed all the lines and filled it again. No problems after that. It is important to turn your wipers off before you leave the car and don't turn them on again until your windshield is free of ice.
If you take these precautions, you should not have problems.
Chuck Hanson
My wife took the Passat for an airport trip a week ago. All was fine for the drive down, and I had driven the car the entire week before the trip, and it was fine all week. She left the lights on in the parking lot, and when she returned two days later, the car was dead. The parking lot attendant gave her a jump start, and although the car started quickly, the idle was VERY rough.
She tried driving it, and it was very herky jerky, and she brought it back to the parking lot as she was afraid to get on the highway. We eventually had it towed to our home.
I started poking around and found that first off, the battery was shot. It was bone dry in three cells and had low water in three others. I filled it up, and although I could jump start it, it would not hold a charge.
I replaced the battery yesterday, and now the car starts OK but then wants to stall almost immediately. If I rev it up a little, I can get it to idle, very roughly, at around 700 - 800 RPMs. It often wants to stall. If I rev it a few times, I am able to get it to idle roughly but then it will run for a good 20 - 30 minutes. If I shut it off, it will again start back up , so I think the alternator is OK.
Anyway, if I attempt to rev the engine, around 1400 - 1600 RPMs, it starts "porpoising"...it revs high/low --up to 1800...down to 1600...again and again and again, unless I really rev it up to 3000 or 4000 RPMs.
I checked all of the spark plug wires, and they are all plugged in well (unplugged and replugged each one). We are, of course, getting a check engine light (steady on) but no other lights.
I tried driving it around the block, and I can't get it over 25 MPH without it going all herky-jerky again. And it wants to stall at each stop sign. So I am afraid to drive it to an auto parts store to get the codes read. But I might just try that if nothing else works. I added some gas treatment, and I am getting some black gunk out of the tail pipe, but the idle has not improved.
To add to the mystery, when I was testing the alternator and new battery yesterday, I noticed that neither the AC nor the radio now work. Both worked fine before. The fan works, and the light on the AC button comes on, but no cold air (it was 75 degrees yesterday when I checked). Radio is completely dead -- no "SAFE" notice or request to enter the radio PIN since I changed out the battery.
So I am stumped. A neighbor says he has a friend who might be able to loan me a code reader, but I am wondering if all of the problems are related (rough idle, AC out, radio out) or if it's just a series of failures. I didn't witness how the guy jump started the car, so I don't know if he did it right or if he might have fried something in the process.
So...any ideas? I don't want to invest a lot in this car. We were just going to keep it because the trade value was so lousy. If I can't get it fixed inexpensively, I will donate it to an organization that fixes up cars for the needy.
Any advice or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks all.
On another occasion the same car developed a leak in a seal somewhere around the rocker arm covers. These seals prevent oil from leaking into the spark plug well. When we had the plugs removed they were sitting in a pool of oil that finally soaked the spark wires and they stopped conducting. Car ran rough like you described. I managed to get it to the shop and 600 dollars later it was a good as new.
Hope you find an inexpensive solution.
Chuck Hanson