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Comments
A check engine light has nothing directly to do with telling you when to change the oil. But a scan will tell alot more than you know now. Good luck and post again with the codes!
Still 5 years is quite early, I would wait a year or two but it is not my car and if belt snaps one needs new engine.
MIL (check engine light) find auto part store (like Auto Zone) and many of them scan OBDII errors for free hoping that you buy parts from them.
Krzys
BTW, I'll be getting the water pump, belt tensioner, and thermostat done along with the other drive belts. SInce they're all in the same area, and at least somewhat related, it makes sense to get it all done at the same time.
I'm intrigued by the recommendation to replace an inner CV boot. I have never had an inner boot go bad, on any car. They simply don't flex nearly as much as the outer ones.
Gotta say - their prices sound high. I won't buy tires from a VW dealer - they're just not that competitive.
Tires: Is that $745 for four or two? You can do way better at a tire shop for a name brand tire.
Tie Rod Ends: Seems low mileage for that one. No idea on pricing.
Driver Side CV Boot: Is the $321 for a new boot, or for a replacement half shaft? Is the boot torn open already? I had two outer boots done two years at a VW dealer for $350 (I caught them before they were open and contaminated).
Alignment: Maybe a tad high.
How far away are you from your daughter? It sounds to me like she needs a little Dad time so she doesn't get completely ripped off.
(Consumer FYI -> I have been having problems since first week of purchase...huge safety hazards, etc....I am driving around in what is considered a 'total loss' therefore can not trade it in & can not sell it cause my loan balance is so high I could buy a whole other car $$,$$$....manufacture declines any responsibility what-so-ever....proceed with caution & do your homework before you buy!)
I'd check into local indie shops. You might want to consider getting a replacement from Raxles.com. I personally haven't used them, but they have an outstanding reputation around other Passat forums. They use a new joint, not a regrind.
BTW, if the boot on one side is torn, it's likely the other side outer boot is toast or will be soon. My OEM boots were replaced at 45,000 miles, when they showed signs of cracking (but had not yet opened). So far, at 72,000 miles, the replacement boots still look good.
I have the same problem - can you provide more information how did you conclude that it is ingnition switch and what did you do to fix it?
Thanks
MZU
The price -- depending on who I was talking to -- ranged from $1300-$2000.
How can I tell if it actually does need replacing? Concerned I'm being snookered into something that doesn't have to be done.
If you can't verify that the belt wasn't changed, you pretty much are up against the wall here---if it breaks, and you bent the valves or worse, this car is pretty much totaled.
I agree with Shiftright that the price seems a bit high. I had mine done in my 1999 Passat V6 at the dealer and paid only $900, but that was about 4 years ago. I think an independent shop that specializes in Euro cars might be worth a look-see as well.
And definitely make sure you get the water pump done too. A good mechanic should include it in his or her estimate, but just verify that it is being done as well.
Happy Driving!
Like everyone else has said, if you don't know and you have 90,000 miles on the car, change it. It is unlikely that the last person did not have it done.
If I were in your boat, I'd probably go to an oil change once a year, but I'd make certain that the oil used is the proper synthetic that the engine calls for.
None of this is based on any VW approved schedule, it's just what I would do. BTW, I'd really try and get the car out on the open highway at least once a month to get the moisture out of the oil.
Since brake fluid attracts and retains moisture, and moisture in brake fluid encourages rust and degrades brake performance, the change is not dictated by mielage, but rather by time.
Again, if I were you, I'd stick to the manual's recommendation in this area. Given your low mileage, you don't want to develop a sticking brake piston in one of the calipers due to rust in the system. Good luck.
I went on to have a laundry list of issues with this car - power window issues - CV boots going out 40k miles prior to the recommended 100k - trunk leaks - filter leaks - engine leaks - sun roof leaks (causing MOLD) - valve cover leaks - engine leaks - faulty ignition coils almost causing an accident - and the list goes on and on.
The only responsibility VW cares to take is to open their mouth enough to say "there is nothing we will do because you are out of warranty". Do yourself a huge favor and get rid our your VW before it starts to interrupt your life because it is only a matter or time. Thats the one thing you probably can count on with Volkswagen. ">
it depends on driver. If one rides your brakes they will last shorter than somebody barely using them. Do you use engine to slow down or brakes?
Nobody that I know guarantees "major work for more then 2 years". I have heard 6 months, maybe a year but no longer.
Krzys
The pundits opine that the Passat has a higher rear brake bias than other cars. Could be, I dunno. Rears on this car last half as long as the front pads for my mainly suburban driving. And I downshift for the steep grades in my area. The real irony of the design is that the front pads are the ones with the wear sensors!
The last breath was when the "STOP" light and "check antifreeze" lights came on. The car came to a dead stop. Had to have it towed to a VW dealer in Harrisburg, PA. Told that the timing belt broke and the engine suffered major damage.
I had the option of replacing the engine. Estimate was $6-7,000. I would have paid it (I have 96,000 miles on it) but the dealer said they would only guarantee the parts for 3-6 months. They would NOT guarantee the labor AT ALL. So, I'm selling it to a salvage yard for $750.
It was a fun car to drive but there will never be a VW in my driveway again! I don't have the time or the money to maintain it. Too bad.
I will never buy another VW either.
Your timing belt story is a good warning to other owners, though. VW's service recommendation is 105K miles. Did you have the recommended timing belt inspections done at the previous mileage levels (IIRC, at 60K and then at 80K)? Common wisdom on the internet is don't wait till the 105K. I'm going to get mine done at 80K.
Sorry to hear your misfortune. So, what did you buy to replace it?
I did not have my timing belt checked. Although my dealer did recommend the 60K and 80K service checks. I'm old school so if it "ain't broke, don't fix it." I always had the oil changed and fluids checked but, well, now I'm paying for it. My fault. Although a good mechanic would have pulled me aside and said YOU MUST HAVE THIS REPLACED. I've been kicking myself all week. It is the first and last VW. The maintenance is just too expensive for me. That was part of my procrastination too. I got a rental (Hyundai Accent) so I could get to work/school. Liked it alot. Bought a 2004 Hyundai Elantra.
I'm not sure I would use a local garage for your 75K checkup. Depends on your local mechanic, If you need parts then the mechanic buys them from the VW dealer and marks them up. I used a local garage for oil changes, etc. but the mileage checks I had done at the dealer. Good luck.