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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kvan59kvan59 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks brozhnik... I found the post. I heard from the dealer a little while ago... they fixed the door handle problem. Apparently, there's a cable that connects the handle to the latch system in the door and it wasn't tightened properly at the factory.

    As far as the sound I've been hearing goes... the service guy did confirm that it is indeed the ABS/ESP system and that it is perfectly normal. So thanks to both you and markcinncinati for the information. I feel better.
  • taft4taft4 Member Posts: 57
    When I bought our Passat GLX V6 Sedan in April I did so with some concern. The car fit our needs well, was better than the six other cars we tried, even though it cost more then any of the others. My concern came from the poor reliability reports I had read on this board and others, and from some national publications.

    Shortly after taking delivery I found the AM radio reception was lousy and not fixable. That was not a big deal because we use the radio very little, yet it was not only annoying but also worrisome.

    Then the transmission started to noticeably thump as we slowed to a stop, a very annoying feeling, to say the least. Fortunately a participant on this board pointed out that the problem was fixable and that I should insist on its correction. I decided to wait until I put some miles on the car before getting it fixed to see what else went wrong so that I could take care of all the problems at one time. Much to my surprise, and relief, nothing else went wrong, and so at 2500 miles and 3 1/2 months of usage I took it in for the transmission work. The dealer knew of this problem, knew how to fix it, and said it would take 1 1/2 hours including their long test drive. They did a good job, treated me well, and the problem is gone.

    This car is a dream to drive, and its power is more then adequate for my usage.

    However, because of the poor reliability record of VW they have created a psychological problem for their owners. I am afraid that we end up always listening for that little sound that may indicate some problem, while in other vehicles with a good reputation, we would ignore it. After all, these are all just machines that from time to time do make odd noises. Hopefully I can now put the reliability concerns out of my mind.
  • big_guybig_guy Member Posts: 372
    I have an 01.5 Passat GLS. I noticed brake pulsing when stopping last year. I was informed by the dealer that the front and rear brake rotors had warped and needed to be replaced at around 18k miles. I thought that was really fast for rotors to warp ... Now the car has around 33k miles on it and I have the pulsing occuring again . The dealer has informed me that the rear rotors are warped again and that the rotors and pads need to be replaced ... AGAIN. I think it is rediculous to have the rotors fail this quickly (but just happens to be long enough to get out of the 12mo/12k warranty).

    I use the car as my transportation to and from my office each day. The total distance from home to office is around 10 miles. I also use it for driving to family activities on the weekends (to the local park, swimming pool, etc.) and runs to the grocery, shopping etc. From time to time I will have a long trip of a couple hundred miles or so and those are typically all rural hwy with infrequent braking. I'm 37 yrs old and have three young children (read "conservative). I do NOT drive recklessly or too fast and I don't use the car to "Rally" on the weekends. All my driving is typical day to day usage. I have had multiple vehicles in the past (2 Subaru, 2 Mazda, 2 Ford, 1 Chevy, 1 Dodge, and this is my 2nd VW). None of the other vehicles I have ever owned had any kind of brake problems except having to replace brake pads and shoes and turning the occasional rotor. None of these conditions ever occured before 36k miles on any of my previous vehicles. All but one of the previous cars I owned were used cars and were higher mileage cars to begin with. The Passat was "fresh off the truck" with only 12 miles on the ODO when I picked it up. I don't understand why the rotors on the Passat are so "weak".

    I will be talking to the service guy at the dealership to see what types of options I have. My Passat is on a 4 year lease and I have about 10 months left on the lease. I opted to get the "Mastercare Platinum" service agreement at the time of signing my lease so I would have coverage to the end of the lease term. That little piece of paper has paid for absolutely NOTHING when I have brought my car in for service (the B2B was 2 years when I leased my Passat).

    Anybody have any suggestions about what I can do?
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    My rotor(s) are warped too. Definitely the rear. Been that way since about 23K mi. Most noticeable during mod/hard braking at hiway speeds. Will repl rotor(s) if/when rear brake pads wear out (not yet 67K mi.). Don't think rotors care how you use them if they are determined to warp. M-B says rotors are not a warrantable item - they are wear items like tires/brake pads/etc. We see it a lot on M-B, so don't worry. Big buck cars can have brake problems too. So far, haven't needed a service contract on my '02 Passat. Just a torn axle shaft boot. Not enough to warrant a service policy. You should remember, a service contract is an insurance policy - meant to give you peace-of-mind. You don't really want to use it. It's a health policy for you car.
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Member Posts: 647
    3screwsloose,

    Do you mind if I ask how much it cost to repair the torn axle shaft boot?
  • rea1rea1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a new 2004 Passat GLX with 2600 miles. I have the same problem with the transmission. Just before the car comes to a stop there is a very noticeable thump. The dealer confirmed that it is a software problem with the transmission downshift. Here is the strange part: They say a factory engineer has to install the fix. Only he has the software program and he has to take it with him when he leaves. I had to take the car in on one certain day when the engineer would be there. What if someone else has the problem the next day? Do they have to wait until the engineer comes around again? I think VW is trying to keep the problem out of the public eye and protect their software fix from being duplicated. I will find out this week if it solves the problem.
  • taft4taft4 Member Posts: 57
    rea1:

    When my dealer fixed my transmission problem he did not tell me they had to have a VW factory engineer do the work. They said that their mechanic would fix it in a short time, and it took about 1 1/2 hours. I saw the mechanic drive my car out of the shop about 1 hour after I got there and he was gone 20 - 30 minutes while he tested it, which was okay with me. My dealer has three locations in Chicagoland with a total new car stock of around 650 cars so he may have more trained mechanics then other VW dealerships.

    Incidentally, I noticed another improvement after this fix. My car at times seemed to hesitate as I accelerated out from a stop before, but all that hesitation is now gone and the start up is very smooth. That may or may not have something to do with the transmission fix, I am too technically inept to know.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Heads up, gang! I received a notice in the mail yesterday from VWoA that states the following:

    1) Outlines an extension of the warranty to cover oil sludging to unlimited miles / 8 years for the 1.8T engine only.

    2) Specifies that engine oil should meet VW Spec 502.00. A list of oils that meet 502.00 was included - it only lists synthetic oil in either 5w-40, 0w-40 and 5w-30 multigrades. To repeat, there are no dino oils on the list. Specifically mentioned were: Synpower 5w-30 and 5w-40, Mobil 1 0w-40 only, Castrol Syntec 5w-40 and a handful of others from Pennzoil, Kendall, Havoline and Quaker State. Notably in their absence was Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline.

    3) Specifies a 5,000 mile / six month change interval. In certain cases (short trips, stop & go driving, and extended below-freezing temps) could require more frequent changes.

    I've cross posted this on the VW Passat thread as well. Moderators, delete this from one or the other if you desire.
  • revvannrevvann Member Posts: 2
    I'm currently in the market for a new car and it is between a Honda Accord EX-V6 and the Passat GLX. I currently have a '98 Accord V-6 with 90,000 miles on it and it has been flawless. I perfer the Passat over the '04 Accord for the features, and style and I want to try something different but I'm concerned about durablity and reliabilty. I notice that when most owners complain about what I consider serious mechanical failures the response is don't worry about it let the dealer fix it. That's great under warranty but does anyone know how much it cost to fix an A/C system or run computer diagnostics to repair electronic failures. I am used to taking my car into the dealer only for scheduled maintenence. As a matter of fact my Accord still has the factory spark plugs, drive belts and timing belts. Can I expect this kind of reliablity in a Passat.

    I hope so because the new Accords are extremely ugly and I really want the Passat. I think I will take my chance Friday if I get a good deal.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Not sure what to say here. Will the Passat be as reliable as the Accord. NO! But the Passat provides a different driving experience. Drive both and see which is best. The Passat will cost more for repairs once the warranty expires. But, the B2B warranty on the passat is longer than the Accord. Good luck!
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    I got the notice too.
    Are you sure about 5000 miles/6 months. I remember seeing 7500 miles and nothing about 5000 in new addenum.

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Yes, I'm sure - 5,000 miles or 6 months, with a note that under certain driving conditions, the interval could be shorter.
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Member Posts: 647
    MSN has a car site where you can compare cars and reliability ratings. It's intreresting that the Passat looks better that the Accord, Camry and Maxima.

    http://autos.msn.com/research/compare/compare.aspx?src=URES

    Just click on reliability ratings and punch in the car you are interested in. To some it will be a surprise.
  • nflecknfleck Member Posts: 2
    I have had the same problem with my transmission. I have had my passat for 4 months and about two months in the transmission started to "bump" when stopping. It was "fixed" by the dealer, and just a couple of days ago it started up again. This is the only problem I have had with the GLX. I really like the car and would recommend it to everyone.
  • wagoneer2wagoneer2 Member Posts: 8
    For the past 3 or 4 months, I have had condensation behind my left front light. It looks more like fog than droplets, but it has persisted for a long time. Has anyone had this problem and if so, what's the solution? I live about 40 miles from the closest dealer, so if this is an easy fix, I'll do it myself. Thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I'd say that the headlight housing has lost it's integrity and allowed moisture to enter. Although it's also possible, if you've recently changed a bulb in that light, that the bulb was contaminated by oil from your hand and that the heat of the lit bulb has caused the oil to coat the interior of the lens.

    I'd guess in either case the answer is to replace the unit. You might be able to buy one from someone on the other online forums. People occasionally upgade their standard lights to HIDs and then sell the old units.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    Still love my '03 GL, but one problem: at 17K miles I notice that the driver's shoulder-harness belt is getting sort of frayed at the edges. I began to notice this before 10K miles, and thought it was normal - but recently noticed that my sister's '03 Accord, at 16K miles, doesn't have this problem. (Note that I get in and out of the car far less frequently than my sister - she has a 10 mile commute, mine is 60 one-way.)

    So what's normal seatbelt wear? What should VW do for me? Thanks.
  • holenone79holenone79 Member Posts: 20
    They should give you $5.00, a swift kick in the butt, and then fix your belt---only because you dont complain alot.
  • vwfanvwfan Member Posts: 1
    Hi Bill159, Congrats on your 2004 Passat GLS wagon. I just got a wagon ourselves. Just want to check with you if you till hv the vibration problem? Also, hv you ever had any vibration and noise when the the sun roof is fully open going at abt 28mph? I read abt the helicopter noise and I suspect that is what I have but I am not sure since I still figuring out the features and functions of the car, switching over driving a stick-shift to the auto/triptonic. Appreciate if you could share with me your experience.
    :) Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Brozhnik, our cars are at about the same mileage and age. I looked at my seatbelt this morning - no fraying on mine whatsoever.
  • wagoneer2wagoneer2 Member Posts: 8
    I guess I should have indicated that this is a (reasonably) new car. It is a 2003 Passat (5-speed wagon) with 13,000 miles on it. This is the only problem I have had with the car (which I love). Sounds like a trip to the dealer is the solution. Thanks for your insight, especially if I ever change the bulb in the future.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    are 5 speeds. Since 1998 they all are (except manual W8).

    Krzys
  • dryverdryver Member Posts: 1
    I had that shattering sunroof experience at highway speed driving my new Subaru Outback a few years ago. It was like a bomb going off next to my ears, with no warning. Glass was everywhere; dog in the back was petrified; I was shaking; and it was very fortunate that there were no vehicles ahead of or behind me when I hit the brakes. It's the only thing to go wrong with that Outback, but I've never really felt safe in it since. Your note (and many of the others here) are helping me decide against the Passat as its replacement. thanks
  • amdamd Member Posts: 3
    Hi there,

    I know this is off-topic, but I was just curious to find out your experience with GLX. I recently purchased a 2001.5 (NEW BODY SHAPE) GLX V6. Any feedback from you, would be great help.
  • amdamd Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a 2001.5 GLX V6, and Im scared after reading your problems. Do u think its accross the board or only your particular car is having such problems. Because I choose Passat over a Jetta, based on less electrical issues. Any feedback will highly be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • makakiomakakio Member Posts: 25
    Something here sounds strange. You state you drive slowly and conservatively and that you don't speed or drive "recklessly" (which I would take to mean that you don't brake hard). You also don't mention having any repeated panic stops. Or living in an area of the country where it's regularly below freezing (big temp differentials between ambient weather and brake temps in places like Minnesota or upstate New York can actually contribute to warping).

    Yet your brakes have warped twice, at an average 16k miles each time. Without having been turned.

    Hmmm. You also don't mention if you pull anything with your Passat (but I'll assume you don't).

    I've research Passats - a lot - and haven't found that this is a common problem at all. Sure, people expecting 60k miles out of the brakes are dreaming (it's German and it uses soft pads to get those excellent braking figures). But this is an extreme example.

    My only conclusion is that someone who drives the car must be constantly riding the brakes. Do any of the drivers drive with two feet?
  • joser1965joser1965 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1996 Passat VR6...love the car..5 speed...

    the problem I have had is that when I go to start the car i have to rotate and push up on the key to get the starter to engage...recently, (yesterday) while doing this my key broke at the plastic...no biggie right? so I put the key in turned, pushed up and nothing...so I have to push start the car...

    so..i know i need a new key...I did notice that is is very worn..could this be the cause or do I need a new ignition swith and key?

    thanks
  • sandeebsandeeb Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Passat 1.8T had the same timing belt problem. It failed at 84,000 miles causing $5,000 damage (new engine). I'm also writing to VW, and I have found about 10 other people with the same problem of the timing belt breaking between 70K and 90K. To those of you that love your Passat, get the timing belt changed at 60K. My maintenance schedule had replacement due at 105,000 miles.
  • sandeebsandeeb Member Posts: 2
    I traded my Accord for a Passat, but after experiencing several instances of being stranded on the roadside by my Passat, I'm going back to an Accord. The Passat looks great and driving it was sheer joy. But I didn't look or feel great as I stood on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck. My Accord never failed me in 170,000 miles. The final straw was when the Passat's timing belt failed early (prior to scheduled maintenance) while I was 150 miles away from home. The damage cost about $5,000 for a new engine. Driver beware... If you buy a Passat because of the driving experience like I did, just make sure to get a roadside assistance plan with unlimited towing. And get the timing belt replaced at 60K.
  • speedemunspeedemun Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I find my Passat 1.8T (with K04 chip and a catback exhaust) consuming much fuel. Getting about 7 or less km per litre (sorry, metric here). Wonder what's the source of the problem. Are there O2 sensors in this make? It is a Oct2000 model. Nice solid car to drive with good turbo kick, but with petrol prices almost the price of a good loaf of bread per litre, it's harder to justify ownership. I rather go sponsor a Third World kid.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    ?
  • amdamd Member Posts: 3
    Im having the same problem. Whats the solution.

    Thanks.
  • joser1965joser1965 Member Posts: 2
    i need to replace my ignition switch...so i went and bought a new one...took apart the steering column, disconnected the wires...now HOW do i get the old one out?

    1996 passat glx vr6
  • big_guybig_guy Member Posts: 372
    No, nobody rides the brakes. My wife and I are the only ones that drive the vehicle. Both of us have years of driving experience and have shared driving duties in several cars (including a Ford Tempo, Ford Taurus, Mazda 626, Suzuki Sidekick, Dodge Caravan, Mazda MPV, and our VW Passat). None of the other vehicles has experienced ANY brake problems ... absolutely none. That is what is so frustrating about this issue that I am having with my Passat.

    To add insult to injury, now I am having a suspension problem on my Passat. The left from suspension is groaning loudly whenever I come to a stop, or accelerate from a stop, or drive through a gutter, or over a speed bump ... or do anything that makes the front suspension have to MOVE at all. I talked to the service guys at my local dealer and they said it is a common problem that creeps up in the Passat and that there is no real fix for the problem. All they can do is "band-aid" it. They told me it is a bushing that has failed in the suspension and that it needs to be replaced ... but that even replacing the bushing does not guarantee that the problem will not return because of the design. Right now it is horribly loud and obnoxious and the quickest they can get me in is September 9th. I have asked them to put me on a waiting list in case someone cancels but it looks like I will have to put up with this racket for over a week.

    My first 3 years with my Passat were pretty trouble free (except for the brake rotors which I saw as a fluke or maybe a bad batch of rotors that I happened to get on my car). As soon as 32,000 miles hit I have started to have more problems than I have had since a 1972 Subaru I inherited from my Mom when I was a teenager. That old Subaru had over 85,000 miles on it and I had to replace the CV joints twice, the front brakes once, and the belts once in the 3 years I drove it. I am starting to regret my decision to get a Passat and it is extremely unlikely another VW will be in my future.

    I'm not saying that all VW's will be problematic ... but my experience has soured me on VW ... just as my experience with our Taurus soured me on Ford.
  • kazikazi Member Posts: 3
    To big_guy:
    I'm also having the same problem with front suspension which I understand is fairly common. I was told that front control arms need to be replaced, kinda expensive.
    Please keep us posted if replacing the bushing help and how costly the job is.
  • big_guybig_guy Member Posts: 372
    kazi:
    I will keep you updated on the results of my front suspension work. I probably won't have a response until September 10th when the work has been performed.

    Another frustrating thing for me in regards to my Passat is the warranty. When I got my '01.5 Passat I had to make the purchase because my previous car was on its last leg. The warranty for the Passat was 2 yr/ 24k miles with the 5 yr/ 100k mile powertrain warranty. Just 6 months after I got my Passat, VW extended the B2B warranty to 4 years. I purchased the Masterguard warranty extension but it has been a worthless piece of paper to date.

    I have had to use the powertrain warranty for the camshaft tensioner assembly when it started to rattle and shake whenever I started the engine (and continued to rattle and shake as I drove it). If it hadn't been for the warranty I would've had to drop another $600 to fix that. It is nice to see VW step forward on some of the problems they have had and issue recalls or extend warranties when required (coil pack replacement, engine sludge warranty extension, O2 sensor warranty extension). Perhaps they will discover that the brake rotors and/or the front suspension issues are a common problem and have to issue a warranty extension or recall for those parts as well. I can only hope. I have had to spend more money on maintenance items for this Passat than I did on my previous 4 cars combined.

    My Passat is on a 4 year lease and I will be able to turn in the vehicle in another 10 months. I just hope I don't have to dump another wad of cash into it to keep me in transportation for that 10 months. It will probably be cheaper to just pay out the lease and get into something else. I don't want to have to burn more cash in maintenace items that should not occur in a car just over 3 years old with less than 36k miles!!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    To follow up on post 458, I took the car in to my VW dealer, and they were great. They concluded the problem was factory-caused, and are going to replace the shoulder-harness belt and mechanism under warranty. What's excellent about this is that they know that i had paintless dent repair done after a hail storm - so a less scrupulous dealer could have claimed that the body shop put the parts back together incorrectly, thus causing the seatbelt to fray from use since then (even though it was fraying long before then). But this dealer didn't do anything like that, just owned the problem honestly. I'm happy.
  • vwchazvwchaz Member Posts: 1
    I too have had rotor probs with my 2001.5 passat glx, when talking to the service guy says it is a problem, will put brembos and greenpads on, let you know what happens.rut
  • sapphirebluesapphireblue Member Posts: 29
    Hi all. I'm considering a 2004 or 2005 Passat wagon for my next vehicle. However, most Passats I drive by on roads look relatively new (past few years). I haven't really seen many "older" Passats.

    According to CR, VW had a definate rough patch with problems about 3-5 years ago...and ranked toward the bottom in # of car problems.

    But now, the new Passats get CR Best Buy recommendations and good safety ratings.

    So...is the lack of older VWs on the road (e.g., Passats and Jettas) due to said "rough patch"? Or is it a more general rule/belief that VWs are fine for shorter ownerships (e.g., up to 5 years when their regular warranties run out), but then most people trade them in vs. keeping them longer and facing issues?

    Also...how do repair costs for VW parts/labor stack up? About the same as other imports, or more/less expensive?

    Thanks,
    sapphireblue
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    brozhnik, I'm gald to hear that you're satisfied with your dealer over your seatbelt issue. It's nice to hear something here other than complaints.
  • 024mo024mo Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2002 GLX 4Motion, 30K miles, original Michelin MXV Plus tires. One tire suffered sidewall damage, so my wife went to get it replaced. Tire salesman told her that the new tire has 10/32 tread, other tire on the back has 7/32, the difference will damage the car, so replace both rear tires. I told her to get the one tire, and I'd check it out. Called the dealer, service advisor said to replace all 4 (fronts are at 5/32). I can understand that tire diameter is very important to the vehicle, esp w/ AWD, but I find it hard to believe that it is so sensitive to uneven tire wear that the car can be damaged by 5/16 difference(front to new rear)in tire diameter. I'd think many such cars would be driving around with that much difference in some tires after 20-30K. Can anybody shed any light on this? Thanks in advance.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I've read something about Subie's having a similar issue. Sorry can't be more help, but I'm amazed at the tire life you've gotten. I've got the same MXV's and, despite regular tire pressure monitoring, rotation and an alignment, I doubt they will hit 20,000 miles. At 17,000 miles, I'm at 4/32 all the way around (at least they wore evenly).
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    What does User's Manual say about tires ?
    Subaru's "feature" is well known thing of any AWD - Subaru, GM or other.

    Krzys
  • mjsendmjsend Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to fix a siezed wiper assembly? the motor is fine, but the driver side wiper is completely siezed. I have disconnected the wiper arms from the wiper motor, but cannot seem to free up the stuck pivot point. Is it possible to get right in there to take it apart? Has anyone had a similar problem?

    Also, can anyone tell me if there are any free online resources that show repair diagrams?

    Thanks

    mjsend
  • snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    According to manual in Subaru if any tire differs by 1/4" you must replace all four tires. Given that you have 5/16" difference >1/4" I would replace all four. It makes a difference since the front and rear spin in unison through the awd transmission, there is allowance for speed difference as this is normal. However differing tire tread depths will make this difference more constant and the differential to slip. The result is either excessive wear to awd or damage.

    Its also very important to rotate tires also otherwise damage like this may occur.
  • lisa8lisa8 Member Posts: 1
    You can have mine! I have never owned a VW and never will again. My 2003 Passat is the biggest lemon I have ever owned and I have had nothing but problems with it since I got it. The real slap in the face is that not only did I waste $27,000 on this lemon, every time I call the customer service dept.(Local or national) they say there is nothing they can do for me. Then what are you there for!!!! I recently wrote the BBB and rec'd a letter from VW saying they were sorry i was having problem with my car, but they could not help me either.
  • 024mo024mo Member Posts: 2
    4Motion part of the manual says that all tires must have the same rolling radius. It does not define the tolerance of "same". Reason dictates that few cars on the road have the same rolling radius on any 2 tires, if you specify a tight enough tolerance. Of course, my concern is what damage could be caused by the 2 rear wheels with a difference in RR of 3/32, with another 2/32 diff to the fronts. Manual also goes on to say that tires with greater tread should go on the front, so it does at least acknowledge that wear is not exactly even in all cases. It also states that if a flat is suffered, to replace with the same size tire. Indication there is that it's ok to replace one, but that section of the book is not specific to the 4Motion.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Have you looked at this article?

    Getting Some Lemon-Aid From Your Lemon Maker
  • big_guybig_guy Member Posts: 372
    I got my car back from the dealership today after dropping it off yersterday. They were not able to duplicate the sound so they asked me to take one of their techincians for a test drive. After the car warmed up (about 10 minutes of driving) the noise was obvious. When we got back to the dealership we were able to get the same groan sound simply by pushing up and down on the left front fender. The tech said it is a inner tie rod that needs to be replaced. They have to order the part and will call me in when it is in stock.

    The service tech told me that the Masterguard extended warranty will cover this item ... I will believe that after the repairs have been done.

    Thank God it wasn't the control arm replacement they initially assumed it to be ... that is a $1200 dollar repair. Unfortunately, it wasnt as simple as a bearing that needs to be re-lubed.

    I think I will have to get hold of the local VW rep and discuss some of the items I feel should be covered under the Masterguard warranty that haven't been. Perhaps I can get some things to be covered .... I won't be getting my hopes up though.
  • andy5andy5 Member Posts: 1
    I heard from someone that the turbos eventually lose power over the years. Is this true or just a myth? If there is some true in it, does the problem originate from using 87 or 89 octane and not the 91 that is recommended? I'm currently considering on a 2004 GL Passat or a 2005 DX Accord. I like how the Passat drives. It is similar to my brother-in-law's Skoda Octavia back in Slovakia, especially the interior. (VW bought them out about a decade ago.) It seems hard to beat the reliability of an Accord though. Any advice on the turbos would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
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