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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    If you haven't already had this replaced, I would check the crankshaft position sensor. When this sensor goes bad, it causes the random stalling and start conditions you described. It happened to a family member's 3.8L and after this was replaced, the problem never repeated. Hope this helps.
  • jamie1022jamie1022 Member Posts: 6
    THANK YOU cornellpinoy! I noticed that prath20's message said that the car would stall out, but I don't have any problems with that. Is this still a possible solution for me. I don't me to sound elementary but I am completely lost when it comes to the mechanics of an automobile. One more thing, could this sensor explain why the starting issue has occurred only when I am at school, in the mountains of NC? While here I frequently park the car at an angled position. Just curious because I thought it was very odd that the problem never occurs when I am at home in Eastern NC where the land is flat. THANKS AGAIN!
  • richardrigarichardriga Member Posts: 1
    Hey chiefs and chieftans,

    I'm having some recent trouble with my "baby".. she's a 2000 GTP with 110k.

    Trouble: For about the last 5,000 miles, she's been getting horrific gas mileage, about 50-60% of normal. Went from about 22 mpg average to about 12, and it worsens as time passes. Most recently, there's been some issues with accelleration, typically when the supercharger is engaged.

    Recently, I did a full maintenance round: new tires (Potenza RE950s), synthetic oil change, fuel line cleaning (looked like an IV drip), oil system cleaning, etc. All in the hopes that my mpg problem would go away and I could move on. Nope -- now the new problems have surfaced.

    Shifting problems, high revving before gear changes, and most recently, if the supercharger is engaged, the meter goes up but rarely does down (like its 'stuck').
    Anyways, I'm at my wits end, and before I take it in, I want to go prepared and have some idea of what to say so I don't look like fresh bait to the dealer.

    Within the last 100 miles, the service has been gone. Right now, it looks like I'll be getting about 150 miles on this recent tank since the maintenance round. I used to get 400 on a tank. With gas prices being what they are, you can see my frustration. I keep thinking that its "cleaning itself out" and just to give it time, but I also don't want to make anything worse!

    History: At 8,000, tranny went bad, GM replaced 100%. OEM tires lasted for 70,000 miles (dont ask, I dont know!!), regular oil changes, regular service updates, etc. 2nd battery, new climate control deck (that went bad) and due to some hub/sensor issue, I've driven for a long time with no ABS or TCS. (If anyone has a suggestion on getting that turned back on, let me know -- I'd love to have it back but not for $600 to replace the hub).. now at 110,000, looks good, has run OK up until the last 5k. She's been a trooper, for sure.

    Any help would be appreciated tremendously.

    Richard Riga
    RichardRiga@aol.com
  • tripntripn Member Posts: 2
    What are indications of needing a catalayt converter? My engine light will not seem to go off. I am not losing power, or smoking. The place I get my oil changes has told me I needed oxygen sensors and I fixed them.
    also can a catalayt converter make your engine get so hot to a 275 degrees? and possible blow a hole in your engine?
    Thanks for any help I can get.
    Lori
  • worleyguyworleyguy Member Posts: 8
    Hello,

    Three things I didn't see mentioned in your message, O2 sensor, catalytic convertor, and timing. You can get an O2 sensor from parts store if your lucky, some emissions stuff you've got to get at dealer. It's easy to install. The converter my be gone, do you hear rattling from it? Back pressure and or bad readings at the O2 sensor may cause you to use more fuel than needed, but you would have noticed high revs, almost red line before changing gears. Also, timing, most expensive I think. If you have a belt like most cars today, not a chain, sometimes they will slip a cog or two. My dad had one slip, car had no power, none, reset the timing and got more power and gas mileage.

    good luck
    WorleyGuy
  • worleyguyworleyguy Member Posts: 8
    Hello Cornellpinoy,

    I read your reply to Prath20 & Jamie.

    I would like to know, if you don't mind, how much that costs you?
    Also, did you look into it being the O2 sensor or the converter?

    Just curious, have a co-worker with this problem.
    He took it to a "Reputable Shop" and gave him a new battery and alternator for $450. I told him next time he wants to do that to one of his cars, I'd do it for $450 and I'd come to him.

    Anyway, he's got the same mileage and it sounds like he has the same issue as Prath and Jamie.

    Thanks
    WorleyGuy
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    Jamie - If your Grand Prix does not stall, replacing the crankshaft position sensor only may not solve your problem. If the car won't start only when its parked on an incline, its probably something else. How do you get the car to start when this happens?
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    Worleyguy - The car was taken to a dealer and I just pulled the paperwork. Their diagnosis was a faulty crankshaft position sensor and bad electronic ignition module.

    When we had this problem, the car had 81K miles. I don't think the 02 sensor or catalytic converter was causing the random stalling and starting problem. It now has 151K miles and still has the original O2 sensor and catalytic converter.

    The crankshaft position sensor was $40, the ignition module was $140. The labor was rather high, but again, it was repaired at a dealership.

    And I agree with you - $450 for a battery and alternator is pretty steep!

    Hope this helps.
  • drain_manbluedrain_manblue Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 grand prix, same problem, I have to tilt the steering wheel all the way up. Then under the steering colum on the right side below the ignition, there is a small slot that you can put your finger in. When you try and turn the ignition key, there is a small cylinder here that trys to ingage. If you fiddle with the cylinder while trying to turn the key it will release, Just try it a few times. GM in Canada wanted about $600.00 to fix the problem even though they knew about it since 1997. Good luck!
  • fastfred90fastfred90 Member Posts: 1
    the check engine said that the rear o2 sensor needed replaced. It was replaced and the car is still making a bellowing noise that is continous after 15mph. i have noticed that when a steer left or veer left that the car does not make that deep bellowing sound. any suggestions?
  • fletcher4fletcher4 Member Posts: 1
    Well I own a Pontiac Grand Prix 99 v6 3800 series and i had the same problem as described above. My car had 81k though and only cost 3000 compared to yours. I will stay away from Pontiac after this. And yes, I tried contacting Ponitac and also they said pretty much go get bent.
  • jpark1jpark1 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find a solution to his problem. I have something similar. Tranny has been worked on numerous times, but when temp gets to 210, it drops out of overdrive, starts jerky shifting. After car cools down again, it performs normally. Tranny guys are mystified.
  • tripntripn Member Posts: 2
    coolant for my grand prix? I hear that it cannot be exposed to air? anybody know any truth in that?
  • patrick12patrick12 Member Posts: 2
    I don't know where you live, but I live in Lloydminster and the exact same thing happened to me at the dealership here in town. We found a website that pointed the problem to be in the console shifter. They told us it was in the column, not the shifter. $500.00 later, the same problem existed. They changed the shifter column and all was well. They credited me the first $500 because WE told them the problem and brought the car back 8 times.....
  • redhawg69redhawg69 Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced the blower motor resistor on my 1999 Grand Prix - it is located behind the blower motor against the firewall. To make it easier to get to drop the blower motor out of the way - three screws and a cable clamp.
  • black2002gtpblack2002gtp Member Posts: 2
    I have replaced both front wheel hubs (R-50000 miles, L-70000 miles). It sounds like the right is going again (115000 miles)

    Do I need to replace the entire hub? Sure seems like I should be able to do just the bearings.

    Otherwise, this is a great car.
  • tb1019tb1019 Member Posts: 5
    I'm having this very same problem with my '97 Grand Prix GT, except that my A/C is not working, either. Have any of you experienced an inoperable A/C with your blower motor resistor failure as well, or are these two separate problems?
  • tb1019tb1019 Member Posts: 5
    I think my right hub is going, too. What is a ballpark figure for getting this issue repaired?
  • black2002gtpblack2002gtp Member Posts: 2
    It's an ugly bill, $300-$500.

    I am looking for a cheaper alternative.
  • patrick12patrick12 Member Posts: 2
    On Thursday, the ABS light as well as the traction control light came on. I had a shop in town check for codes and none came up. I told him from what I had found, the wiring to the sensors on the front is a problem source, which he was aware of. The light was off for a few blocks and came on again. The ABS acted up today (Friday) once and the light is still on. Any one on this site have the same problem?
  • jamie1022jamie1022 Member Posts: 6
    Hey cornellpinoy ... I have figured out that being on an incline or decline doesn't make a difference. It just randomly won't start. I had it towed to a shop last Wednesday and by Thursday they were calling me to let me know that it had been starting the entire time so they were unable to determine what the problem was. I had to go pick it up and it has worked fine again until today. It won't start again now? UGH! Should I take it to another shop? THANKS AGAIN!
  • donahmjdonahmj Member Posts: 2
    1999 GTP 140000 miles.
    have replace 02 sensor. other normal maintenance battery etc.

    Had a problem awhile back that involve a vacuum activated fuel control valve on front of engine. The problem is that is was pulling too much vacuum. I was getting a fuel to lean code. I replace the valve, the vacuum hose ( before I determined the problems was too much vacuum. I capped off the line and valve. runs fine with no engine light.

    Now I am having this race condition, and I think it might be related. Problem has be intermittent. Could be heat related I live in Texas? and so far no codes.
  • donahmjdonahmj Member Posts: 2
    Can't answer your question? but I have a 99 GTP and have been to 110 with plenty of petal left. I was on the highway trying to pass a bunch of cars that kept cutting me off. It was as smooth as glass. Anyway why do you need to go that fast.

    don't wreck your sweet ride.
  • onyx1onyx1 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone experienced this problem? My 1999 GTP quits sporadically while driving without any prior indication. Specifically, while driving at any speed the car just stalls out..... However it starts back up once I pull over and put it in park. There are also times when I can feel the sputter of the engine like it is going to stall but if I it the gas a few times I can keep it running however the tac goes to zero and stops working until I restart the car. I have had it into the dealer twice and they can not find any codes being stored to narrow down the problem. Help!
  • onyx1onyx1 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone experienced this problem? My 1999 GTP quits sporadically while driving without any prior indication. Specifically, while driving at any speed the car just stalls out..... However it starts back up once I pull over and put it in park. There are also times when I can feel the sputter of the engine like it is going to stall but if I it the gas a few times I can keep it running however the tac goes to zero and stops working until I restart the car. I have had it into the dealer twice and they can not find any codes being stored to narrow down the problem. Help!
  • bobcainbobcain Member Posts: 1
    Have the same problem!!!! A mech . told me to have the crank Angle sensor checked.(C.A.S) and that this is probably the problem.
  • cosmo_0ocosmo_0o Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a 99 Grand Prix GT that keeps stalling. From these Forums I've heard that the crank sensor can be faulty. What kinda job is this to change? is it something that i can do myself or should i take it to a garage and do it? I have some experiene with engines, but not a whole lot.

    I've also heard stories of guys having faulty starter solenoids. Could this be the problem?

    :sick:
  • panchulopanchulo Member Posts: 1
    My suggestion is for you to check out the IAC valve. It's located on the top and rear of your motor.
  • travlinman63travlinman63 Member Posts: 1
    I have just finished about two months of troubleshooting the same issue. You may or may not be getting the Service Engine Soon light when you have this problem. The source of my trouble was the crankshaft sensor. This supplies the signal for the ignition and the tach to your Ignition Module and your PCM (PowerTrain Control Module)- i.e. Car computer) The paret can be had at AutoZone for around $25.00 and it takes a mechanic 1 to 1.5 hours to change. I went to a small town where I used to live and got a very good rate on the work ($61.00) and things are now fine. Be cautioned, however, if this has been going on a while, there is a VERY good chance your catalytic converter has been trashed because the ignition hasn't been right and a lot of fuel was dumped in there. I had to replace mine twice while I figured out what was wrong. I had three mechanics look at it and they recommended everything from the car computer to Ignition Module & Coil packs. I recommed www.convertersexpress.com for finding a cat for your car (mine was $150.00 shipped) it is a fairly simple task to replace it. Hope this helps
  • gtpguy1gtpguy1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same symptoms with my 97 GTP @ 150,000 miles - it would start and than stall immediately in hot weather. It would sometimes start and run OK in cooler weather and than stop after driving when it got hot. Sometimes the car would run OK again after being allowed to cool off for 30 minutes. The problem got worse until I could not drive the car.

    After much parts changing and $$$ spent I discovered that the fuel pump electrical circuit has an .8 ohm power resistor that was going open intermittently at high temperature. I replaced the resistor with GM PN 88951182 ($40) and it fixed the problem.

    You can diagnose this problem yourself when the car won't run by disconnecting the resistor (it is in the right front wheel well) and jumping the mating connector with a paper clip. If the car runs with the jumper installed you will know that the resistor is the problem. However, the resistor and connector is hard to access so you may want to just
    go ahead and have it replaced now rather than wait for it to fail again so that a positive diagnosis can be confirmed.

    Good luck - hope it helps!
  • jbd1jbd1 Member Posts: 1
    zujo,
    I have the same problem with my 99. A mechanic friend of mine told me to spray dry graphite in the key slot and then blow in there with a straw, It worked! and lasted about a year before I needed to do it again. Don't be suprised if the car still goes (ding,ding,ding) after you take the key out. That part didn't bother me as long as I can get the key out.
    jbd1
  • cosmo_0ocosmo_0o Member Posts: 2
    I had the Mechanic look at my car that was stalling. He drove it and it stalled on him. He saw the fuel pressure go to zero at that time. Checked the fuel pump and it was fine so he looked at where it got its power from. He found some bared power wires for the fuel pump that go to the relay. It was some where right close to the PCM. He changed those. Its running fine right now, but its only been a few days. hope it works. thanks.
  • oldenuff2oldenuff2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 grand prix gt the son of gun will start, then when it starts warming up a little it starts pitting and sputting, then goes dead! I have had new plug wires, plugs, and coil packs put on. Still it is doing the same thing. I have noticed when you are FORCING the car to stay running the car is dumping oil and gas out the tail pipes. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
    THANK YOU ALLhttp://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorc- ons/emo_bawling.gif
    cry
  • solussdsolussd Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem. I have a 1997 grand prix gtp. My ABS light turns on after less than a minute of driving. Sometimes the brake warning light does as well. This started happening a couple days ago. My air conditioning also stopped working when this happened (???). I replaced my alternator, it was going out anyway (fluctuating voltage).did you ever get yours fixed?
  • carmengacarmenga Member Posts: 7
    Hi:),i recently bought a 1995 GrandPrix SE from my uncle,and my Antilockbrake light started coming on right after i started driving it.The problems have been getting worse,such as trouble starting the car,having to push really hard on the accelerator peddle just for the car to go forward like all the other cars are on the street(haha),and the lights on the instrument panel are flickering.I took it to a local walmart,and they tested the battery ,and alternator ,and both are fine(everyone i spoke to said it was the ALT,or Baterry).By the way the car would also seize up on the road ,and it would manage to be restarted.I have had to leave it in my underground parking garage,and can no longer drive it anywhere,including my mechanic.
    Please help!Thankyou!
  • carmengacarmenga Member Posts: 7
    Hi,as it turns out i thought i would need to replace both the battery or alternator ,but according to the walmart technician,the battery ,and alternator were deemed fine,and in no need of being replaced.I was hoping there was something wrong with at least one of them ,because now i have no idea what to think :(
  • richmn605richmn605 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having this problem for a few months. The car will start fine.I will go into a store come out and it wont start. Sometimes for as long as 3 hours. I wait and go back the next day and it starts fine. It also stalls as I am driving. It turns over with no problem but wont start up. My mechanic has had it for 4 weeks and cannot figure it out. Pontiac says it is a fuel pump and wants to charge me 675.00 to replace it. My mechanic told me that the fuel pump looks OK. There is no check engine light Therefore it does not show up on a diagnostics check. It doesnt matter if the car is hot or cold. It just randomly will not start or will just die on me. Any help would be appretiated
  • richmn605richmn605 Member Posts: 2
    I should have noted that the car in message #362 is a GT with the 3800 engine. I dont no if that matters or not.
  • scorpio44scorpio44 Member Posts: 1
    We have noted recently a creaking and grinding coming from the dashboard of our 2005 GTP Comp G. The sound started after the defective computer in the car was replaced, and got worse after warranty work was done on a defective windshield trim; now it has become unbearable. The car has been back to the dealer several times, but they have not been able to fix the problem, or even reduce it; Pontiac Customer Assistance has tried to be helpful as well. The dealer is now saying that the problem was due to use of ArmorAll when the car was detailed, affecting the interface between dashboard panels; I find this a bit difficult to accept. Has anyone else had a similar problem? The noise is driving my wife crazy, and we are now planning to cut our losses and trade in the car on another brand, as Pontiac is not willing to make any concessions on trade-in value to entice us to switch to a new G6 GTP. :(
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Member Posts: 77
    I was driving in town this week with AC on when suddenly AC and fan went off; trip computer digital readout went black; power windows worked very slowly; and I could manually shift between 2nd and 3rd. No 1st gear or 4th. Engine ran fine, but no power because it would start out in 2nd from a stop. Drove straight to the garage without shutting it off. Smart move because it would not start once I shut off the engine. Turns out the battery went dead because the alternator had "zero output". Transmission was not shifting properly because it is electronic shift according to the dealer. Never saw the dash battery light come on .... no warning. It was scary and I thought I had major issues. They replaced the alternator (GM part with life time warranty), re-charged the battery and everything is fine now.

    Sounds like you have similar symptoms. Maybe your alternator has less than optimum output or a loose connection causing intermittent problems.
  • carmengacarmenga Member Posts: 7
    I think you could be right "GmFan" ,boy i sure hope you are.I managed to get the car to my mechanic` ,and i will find out tomorrow.I,ll suggest it to my mechanic ,and see what he says.Thanks for your reply!I,m thinking i have major issues right now! :cry:
  • chrisdawchrisdaw Member Posts: 1
    I haev a 1997 Grand Am, and have had the same problem. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, igntion control module, and still nothing happened. I found on another site where they say the crank shaft sensor causes this problem, so we're replacing that. I have no clue where it is, but now that it has gone completely out, the car acts like it jumped time. I'm hoping that replacing the sensor will help.
  • gkarggkarg Member Posts: 230
    My bro-in-law's 99 GP has developed a potential problem with the steering. It happens when you turn to the left only. As you begin to turn the wheel it makes a sensation in the wheel as if the system is for a split second, binding or hanging up and then continues to turn. It is only at the beginning of turning and not during the rest of the turning - once you are going left.

    Right turn - no sensation.

    I tried turning the wheel all the way to the right and it even made the sensation (sorry - I can't think of a better word) at the beginning of turning the wheel left (with the wheel all the way to the right to start.) So, it essentially happens at the beginning of turning the wheel to the left - no matter what direction the wheels are.

    If anyone has experienced something like this, please let me know. I read about the recall on the 97's with the PS rack, but that sounds more extreme (or is this just the beginning?)
  • carmengacarmenga Member Posts: 7
    Finally,after a day of testing my mechanic seems pretty sure that its the ignition switch that is causing all of the other problems,IE:Not starting,signal indicators dont blink,ABS light always on,along with other dashboard lights.I wish it had been the battery!No more NrthAm cars for me $$%%^&###@#$.He(MECH)was sure enough to order a new ignition switch, that will cost minimum, $200. :lemon:
  • j0ey69j0ey69 Member Posts: 1
    Listen..im in like the most terrible situation ever...i dont know why but my car recently started doing this for the past 2 months or so..okay i had my radiatior changed because my car was overheating all the time and plus it had a leak in it..so my dads friend changed it then im not sure if they did something to it or something but when i got it back the car turns on right..it can stay in idle but in park..when i shift to the "drive" gear it turns off on me..it reverses good though without a problem...i dont know whats going on..i just had a tuneup this morning change all spark plugs, changed the oil and filtered it, changed the air filter..changed the fan belt, took transmission oil out (since there was too much) cleaned the carborator and did something with some can looking thing that looks like a soda can that had gas in it i dont know what it was called it was for the gasoline though, my moms friend did the tuneup, we figured that would be the problem and still we put it in drive and it turns off..we checked oil water everything god im so desperate for help and i dont want anyone charging me the wrong thing since i dont know jack about cars..anyone got any advice? any would be appreciated thank you so much
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check the fluid condition in the PS reservoir. If it's turned black, there's internal wear in the rack and pinion valve assembly.
  • gkarggkarg Member Posts: 230
    Thanks alcan for your suggestions. They took the car to the purchasing dealer yesterday and "topped off" the PS reservoir and proclaimed all well. We'll see.
  • hillarymhillarym Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm having a similar problem I've read about here. I have a '97 Grand Prix GTP. 133,000. It stalls but only sometimes. I start it and it dies, and I have to rev it up, and force it to go. After it gets going, it's fine. although a couple of times it was going fine, and then stalled when I was going 65. Other times it starts up just fine. I had the mass air flow sensor replaced, and got a new fuel filter, the service engine light is off, but it's still doing it! when it feels like it. I'm so frustrated. Should I replace the crank shaft position sensor? I wonder what labor is for that? Both places I've taken it to don't know what's wrong. One guy said to take it where they have an engine scope. I've already spent $400. and I don't have a lot of $ for car repairs. Any input or advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • stitchesstitches Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the trick to removing the "lower back" bolt on the alternator in these things? It is hidden behind the serp belt and idler pulley, I can barely touch it let alone turn it loose. I have removed the elec connections and loosened the pivot bolt.
    Thanks.
  • ntdobbinsntdobbins Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 grand am GT that wont start. When I get up in the morning it starts fine but later in the day when I get back in it wont start it will try to turn over and then makes a puttering noise but wont fully start . I opened the fuse box under the hood and wiggled the fuel pump relay and it started. The next time i did this it would not start. If anybody has had this same problem please let me know what you did to fix it or any other useful information
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