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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jason1289jason1289 Member Posts: 1
    i was having the same problem. for everyone with this problem, check the release button on the shift knob, sometimes it doesnt fully engage and then the shifter does not lock. the car has a feature installed that prevents the key from being removed with out the car being locked in park. hopefully this helps
  • fergie22fergie22 Member Posts: 2
    Don't ignore it. My son's 97 Grand Prix did this, we checked the manual and read that it might be a problem with the quality of the gas and that we might need to run a couple of tanks through, short story, the next day it began to make a racket while he was driving it, it was towed to the shop and now we're told--you need a new engine....this on a car that had been serviced less than 300 miles earlier by the dealer and checked for everything that could go wrong as he was about to drive it to college. :sick:

    sad mom....and even sadder son :lemon:
  • wileywapitiwileywapiti Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Grand Prix GTP and driving down the road it will just die. It starts right back up, no problems and I'm on my way. It has done this 3 or 4 times now. No check engine lights. Any ideas?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Crankshaft position sensor quite likely. Especially if it does this more often once the engine is warmed up. But I have seen them do this, or even not start at all, when cold. Probably $40 in parts and $150 in labor.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Under what circumstances did it overheat? On highway, stop and go traffic, idling?

    Not shifting into overdrive on the highway could be something as simple as low tranny fluid. Have you checked that? Must be checked with engine warm but not hot (about 20 minutes of light driving is good) and engine idling in park.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Most likely not "major", but not a simple maintenance reminder either. The light coming on indicates the computer has found something wrong with an emissions related system.

    If you take it to a mechanic, they will hook it up to a OBD-II code scanner and find the system that is at fault for about $50. Then the fix itself could be something as cheap as spark plugs or as costly as EGR valve, etc.

    If you are good with cars, certain auto parts stores will scan the code for free and you can look online to see what the code means, and attempt to fix it yourself.
  • ryguy2ryguy2 Member Posts: 3
    It over heats in traffic, but runs much hotter than normal on the road. Also tends to be when it is over 90 and not when under. the trans fluid has been checked and is fine.
  • mmxermmxer Member Posts: 12
    If you dont want to pay go to auto zone they will scan it for free :P
  • dagod1dagod1 Member Posts: 1
    It just got a new head gasket, It is eating about 2 quarts of oil per week and not leaking anything. I need help fast
    Rob
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    If you are sure all the air is out of the cooling system, and you've done a flush, then you can either try chemicals like the Prestone flush I mentioned a few posts above, or, bite the bullet and get a new radiator.

    Also consider the thermostat one last time. I've had one fail on me that was only a few months old.
  • wileywapitiwileywapiti Member Posts: 3
    Any way to test the sensor to see if it is bad?
  • n8ten97n8ten97 Member Posts: 3
    I go over a bump in the road and the car shakes real bad, even after ive been past the bump. What could be causing this?? Shocks/struts? And what would something like that cost me to fix or could I do this myself?? Would just changing the strut cartridges work??
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    I assume you are asking, is there any easy way to test it at home, because if you have a scan tool, you can plug it in and watch for RPM as you crank the car.

    At home, here are some things to try:
    - As you try to start the car, does the tach show anything?
    - Do you have spark on any cylinder? If you do, it's not the CPS. If no cylinder has spark, you still can't say it's definitely the CPS because it could be the ignition module or ECM. Maybe even ignition coils but it's very unlikely all 3 pairs of coils would go bad at once.
    - If you don't have a scan tool but you have a scope or multimeter I think you can get a reading off the sensor wiring itself, BUT this is an undocumented way to test, so be careful. If you can probe the wires while someone else cranks I'd expect to see some kind of fast pulsing signal. Probably too fast for a multimeter.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Any noises along with the shakes?

    I would have a friend drive beside you on each side, and behind you, on a bumpy road. He should watch to see if your wheels after hitting a bump, settle right down or if they continue to bounce a few times. Have him watch all four corners, one at a time as they hit a bump at speed, at least 25mph.

    Bounces mean struts. On a 1996 it's a pretty easy job if you are mechanical. Try the test above and tell me what you learn. Also please share about any noises you hear when you hit the bump or afterwards.
  • randyprorandypro Member Posts: 2
    alright, heres my story lol... sorry. I bought a 98 Grand Prix SE with 170,000km (i am canadian) used from a used car lot. I had the car 1-2 weeks and i noticed a minor tick, its not a knock! to it. Now the tick is weird heres why it ticks faster with the faster the engine rev's but if i go for a 15-20 minute drive the noise mostly goes away? I have contacted the car lot and they wern't willing to do anything for me (no warranty - not that the warranty would cover this anyways). I did an oil change with Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Treatment (mixed @ 20%) and yet nothing... So I took the car to the first mechanic (local) and he told me it was extremely difficult to tell where the noise (because of the echoing) was coming from but using the stethiscope he figured bottom end noise but not rods, checked bearing and there fine? so he told me that tearing it apart would be expensive and likely would result in a replacement anyway... so i was a lil disturbed and down got ahold of my fathers buddys who is also a mechanic (buy this time its got much louder) and he said the same about the echoing and he also had the stethiscope out and figured it might be lifters or just cylinder noise and I will have to replace the motor eventually. nothing thats going to cause me troubles for a little while. I was just wondering if anyone else has seen or heard of a similar situation? lol, unfortunitly i don't expect good news so don't hold back on a plus note i have noticed NO performance change? still lots of get up and go, no crumby fuel milage.

    Specs (just incase):
    1998 Grand Prix SE
    3.1 SFI Engine
    175,000km (not sure how many miles that is)

    thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any information you guys can provide me with.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Sorry to say it, but "they all do that".

    There has been a 89 3.1 Regal, 97 3.1 Century, 97 Cutlass Supreme 3.1, 95 Cutlass Supreme 3.1, and 02 3.4 Alero in my family. All these engines are close relatives of yours, with the 97s being practically twins. :)

    The noise you hear is probably piston slap. It's a minor problem in these engines. My 95 3.1 has 152,000 MILES on it and ticks, but is running strong. Could be lifters too.

    I would not worry about it. Use good oil, do NOT use oil treatments, and change the oil every 4-5k miles and you'll be fine. If I were you, depending on how much Lucas you put in, I'd dump it and start over.

    If you want oil recommendations from me, tell me exactly where you live so I know the climate, and describe your typical drive (distance, speed, etc.).
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    They all do that? That's a new one on me. Does it vary with RPM under driving load and in nuetral?

    If yes, it is likely to be piston slap. Quality oil will help. I suggest the Mobile 1 synthetic oil appropriate for your climate. I have a Sierra with 230,000 miles and a Grand Prix with 172,000 miles with strong engines and no piston slap. Never had internal problems on either. The secret is using synthetic oil and regular maintenance for the life of the engine.

    If no, it may be in the transmission which would cause the sound to appear in the bottom end of the motor if front wheel drive. Try a power flush and filter change on the transmission. When the oil heats up it flows easier around metal shavings that may be blocking the pick up and circulation points.
  • randyprorandypro Member Posts: 2
    Well i am pretty sure its not a tanny problem... and after doing some research last night about this "Piston Slap" which conviently enough was brought up here, it seems to be a more logical explanation. is this something that would cost tons of money to have checked out? or even fixed? is it just a piston ring that needs to be replaced or would i have to re-bore? any extra information on this or sites would be greatly appreciated.

    for the oil information, I live in southern canada so its still bloody cold (well below freezing 10-20 fareinheit) in the winter and pretty warm in the summer (reaching 90-95 fareinheit. I live in a small town (very rarely city driven) and drive approx 40km (25miles i think?) to work.

    I did just do an oil change on this car and probably won't bother again untill my 4-5,000km are up. but thanks alot guys it seems everything is pointing towards this piston slap, just the way it acts. by the time i am home from work its running perfect. I was lead to believe that a lazy lifter or lifter troubles wouldn't go away when the car warms up.
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    If the problem goes away after the engine is good and warm, your oil may be too thick for cold starts.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Perhaps "all" was a bit too strong, but I hear a tick/slap on startup on the MAJORITY of 3.1L / 3.4L (OHV, not the old DOHC one) engines.

    Sometimes very light, sometimes it goes on for a minute or two.

    Momwag, is your Grand Prix a 3.8 or 3.1? The 3.8s aren't as prone to this.

    Momwag is right about using the right oil.

    Southern Ontario isn't too different than my northern Ohio climate. If you can find Mobil 1 0W-40 I have had excellent results with it. Sometimes you gotta look around to find a store that sells it. It flows fast at cold temperatures and startup, yet stays slightly thicker at high temps than a 5W-30.

    If you just can't find 0W-40, go with Mobil 1 5W-30 in the winter, and in the summer 5W-30 but blend in 1/2 to 1 quart of the 15W-50 they have.

    Your mileage isn't extremely high but it's hardly a tight new engine either. Remember, when GM spec'd 5W-30 for your engine, they had dino oil in mind. A synthetic of the same "rating" will flow much better when you look at detailed manufacturer specs.

    As far as fixing it mechanically, I have no experience, but in all the online communities I participate in I haven't heard of anyone do it. Possible sure, but probably ridiculously expensive.
    Just remember that for the most part this is a benign noise you are hearing and good oil will keep the car running for many miles to come.
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    I have a 3.8L. Great Car. I just wish they would get rid of the plastic parts on the window regulators.
  • sfc400sfc400 Member Posts: 2
    I know now that it is not the alternator and checked the fuel pressure which is in range.But the car still will not start.When I sprayed gas in the manifold the car started for just a moment any suggestions of what could be wrong.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    If you spray starting fluid or gas into your intake and the car starts, you have a fuel problem.

    Is the fuel pressure gauge showing roughly 40psi both when you turn the ignition to "ON" and when you try to start the car? It shouldn't change much as you're cranking away, have a friend watch it for you as you try that.

    If you have good pressure, I would lean towards fuel injectors having gone bad. They are the last stop on the fuel's trip into the engine, more or less.

    But before you diagnose those, I would make sure you have good spark. Buy a spark tester and check at the front ignition wires that are convenient (one or two is fine). If you find spark (and I bet you will) then it's time to Ohm test the injectors... on that car I think you'd have to take the upper intake off to do so. You basically unclip each injector's wiring connector and check OHMS. You may find from 1 to a few of them deviating from the rest. Off the top of my head I can't remember the correct resistance but for some reason "12" is stuck in my head.... I will have to dig that up if you need it. Usually what I do is test all 6 and the 1 or 2 that are the most abnormal get replaced.
  • jwojwo Member Posts: 1
    I just want to note that Fuel injection cleaner only works on vehicles where the injectors are fairly clean or new. There are little filter baskets that are similar to a smaller version of a reusable coffee filter basket. If your injectors are really dirty all that will happen is that the chunks of grim and slug that the injector cleaner is cleaning off the insides of you rail and injectors get caught in these little baskets. Which will make your injectors spray worse and worse as the basket gets more and more clogged. If your injectors are really dirty I would suggest bringing them to get cleaned professionally by a Fuel Injection shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner. They will clean your injectors for $20/each injector and replace all the rings and filter basket for approx $5/each injector.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    That's a good point. Once a car reaches a couple years of age, it's good to throw in a high quality fuel injector cleaner a couple times a year. Don't wait till there are problems. Chevron Techron is good, Gumout Regane is too. Skip the stuff that's 99 cents!! It's just alcohol. Anything that's just alcohol is a waste of money as almost all gas is 10% ethanol nowadays anyway.

    If you use a high detergency gasoline on a regular basis, that will cut down on the need for cleaners. Do a google on "top tier gasoline" to learn more.

    As far as professional fuel injector cleaning, it's not a bad idea, but GM injectors do fail electrically. It's common after 100k miles. So it's a better long term investment to replace them with new ones if you plan on keeping the car a while.
  • knepskiknepski Member Posts: 2
    Last year I hit a deer on the front passenger side. After the car was fixed and I picked it up the info center was dark. Initally I thought it wasn't working, but if it's light enough in the car you can still see the numbers and it is reading, it just somehow lost the ability to illuminate. I took off the dash and didn't see where anything is disconected. Anybody experienced this before?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    I think the illumination for the display is LED based and almost assuredly built into the unit. Not a replaceable bulb really. I would go after the insurance on this if at all possible, it should have been covered.

    This is the only piece that lost illumination? Maybe it was coincidence that it went out from the crash.
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    There is an image adjustment for the HUD that usually helps with ghosting. You might want to see if changing the settings helps. I am not sure if it effects brightness though.
  • dug2171dug2171 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GTP that started smoking from the dash as I was drove to work several days ago. I pulled over and was able to disconnect the battery after about 10-15 minutes. The car filled with smoke in the meantime. I had the car towed to a dealership that has now told me two wires under the driver seat were exposed and touched. Before I disconnected the battery it burned the wire harness, display harness and the fuse box (and possibly more). I received a quote of $1,600 for parts they have identified and at least a days worth of labor at $85/hour. I have contacted Pontiac who then talked to the dealer who basically told us to cut our losses and buy a new car. I contacted my insurance company who said it is not covered because it was a mechanical failure. Does anyone have a suggestion?
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    Unless you can do the work yourself and get the harness from a junk yard you are going to pay more than the car is worth $$ wise. If the car is in good shape and you don't want to buy a new one it may be cheaper overall. How many other electrical components may have been damaged? You won't know until they fix what they know.
  • racer32xracer32x Member Posts: 4
    My wife drives a 98 Grand Prix, the car has 202,000 miles. It has been a good car, now the problems are starting. The key is stuck in the ignition, which is probably the switch or sensor on the shifter. My local auto parts store has no listing for that part. Does anyone have a part number or should I just buy it from the dealer? The windshield washer pump will not run. In the past I replaced the steering column, and that did not change the washer problem. The column was cheaper than the multi-function switch. Also the wiper motor has been replaced, no change, still no power to the washer pump. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • racer32xracer32x Member Posts: 4
    My wife has a 98 Grand Prix, same car as in post above this one. The A/C compressor will not come on. There is no power going to the clutch to lock it in. The switch on the climate control seems normal, when I push it the light comes on to show its working. All fuses are ok, is there a relay somewhere that I am overlooking. Thanks...
  • mmxermmxer Member Posts: 12
    Yesterday driving I see steam coming from drivers side hood. I can smell collent, and reserve is low. I dont see any hoses leaking, it looks like it below on drivers side. Freeze plug leaking? Any ideas?
  • court0013court0013 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 98 pontiac grand prix with 90k

    i have had overdrive replaced but my car still clunk's when trying to go into the gear.

    my Torque converter has been replaced as well as the solenoids. the service engine light is still on. the computer says its still my converter.

    my windshield wiper fluid will not come out

    my gas mileage is ridiculous and i have spent over 3,000 and still have not solved any of my problems

    anyone have any ideas or suggestions?????
  • court0013court0013 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 98 grand prix with 91k

    my key keeps getting stuck in my igntion. the car will not shut completely off when this happens. im afraid that if i don't figure out the problem soon that one of these times it is going to get stuck for good!!

    any ideas or suggestions???
    thankyou!!">
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Which position is the key stuck in? By the sound of it I'm guessing it doesn't turn to the "OFF" position?

    As far as the windshield washer, have you checked that the pump is definitely not getting power using a multimeter or test light? You could also jumper the washer pump to +12V on the battery and see if it starts pumping.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Well, if you've spent $3000 and the tranny is still not right, there's only one thing to do. You have to go back to the shop that did the work and DEMAND they fix it correctly. You paid for it to be fixed, it's not fixed, end of story. Don't let them beat around the bush. If they don't help you, I would work through your credit card to get a refund... talk to the BBB... even attorney general's office.

    Unless people stand up to shady businesses (in any sector) they won't go away.

    As far as the washer: when you apply the washer, do you hear the whirring sound it normally would make? If so - look for a disconnected hose under the hood or at the wiper arms. If not - check your fuses, and if you're able to, check whether power is getting to the washer motor.
  • printerdwprinterdw Member Posts: 1
    We had the same thing with our 99 grand prix it ended up being the Crank Shaft senser works fine now it's right under the crank shaft pully not a fun job to do.
    Hope this helps
  • racer32xracer32x Member Posts: 4
    The key is stuck in the position that is one click forward from the off position where it will normally pull out. Everything is off or so I thought, another post said the electronics for the car are still powered up at that point. I have checked power to the washer pump with a good multimeter, nothing. I have not tried the jumper wire, but I am positive it would run. Thanks
  • erikaverikav Member Posts: 1
    My Pontiac Grand Prix 2001 has the same problem. The driver window motor stopped working 6 months ago, two months ago the two rear windows at once. How can two windows that I seldom use go out at once? What a pain of a car. It's a very cheap car for the price. I have met so many people with the exact same problem, even new Pontiacs still under warranty. Since it's not a safety issue, Pontiac is not going to acknowledge the problem.
    For the price you can buy a much better car!!!
  • miramichimiramichi Member Posts: 2
    I know what your going through! Under your steering wheel on the column you will have a small square hole, about 1 1/2" wide. If you stick your right middle finger in this hole with your palm facing you, you will feel with your finger nail a small round button. Push this button in and your key should turn all the way off. You will have to do this each time you shut the car off. If you look by the square hole I told you about you should see a small round hole also. This hole is lined up with the little button inside. Take a screw that is lone enough and put it in this
    hole so it keeps the button pushed all the time.
    Heads up! keep an eye out for some "shift lock release" problems in the future.
  • ntfstenufntfstenuf Member Posts: 3
    A few months ago it stopped running and wouldn't start.A buddy of mine who is a mechanic told me to replace the crank sensor so I did.problem solved,well its only been about 3-4 months and now car is spitting and sputtering real bad.It was doing it before the crank sensor went out and now it is doing it again.Can a crank sensor go bad that quick or could it be something else?But it is doing the same exact thing as last time.should I replace the crank sensor again?PLEASE HELP!!!!! thanks
  • momwagmomwag Member Posts: 14
    Have you replaced the plugs and wires? Might check the ignition coils as well.
  • ntfstenufntfstenuf Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for info.I bought a new crank sensor and installed it in about 10 minutes.problem solved,when I took the sensor out it had a lot of oil in the connection area so it must of cracked.runs like a champ now.new wires,platinum plugs about 3 months ago.I was told that the 3.1 engine was junk but I've had the car over 2 yrs. and only prob was the crank sensor.Overall good car.Thanks
  • mmxermmxer Member Posts: 12
    10 min? damn my 1995 grand prix gtp was a [non-permissible content removed] so I just took it too a shop. No easy access to it. Sucks you had it go bad again.
  • ntfstenufntfstenuf Member Posts: 3
    The hardest part of the job was jacking the car up with a scissor jack and taking the tire off.You can't see the sensor you just gotta feel with your hand.All it took was a 10mm deep socket and ratchet and a new sensor.The first time I did it it took a while because I didn't know what I was doing but after that it's like riding a bike,you never forget.Is there any hop up parts for these year cars?just wondering if anyone knows thanks.
  • ken7308ken7308 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 99 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Super Charged 3800 Series II Engine. I was experiencing stalling issues like a mad man. When I'm at a red light it'll stall, when im at a stop sign it'll stall when i accelerate from a stopped position guess what? Yep, it stalls. I tried everything from changing the MAF, Spark Plugs, Cleaned the throttle body, tested the fuel injector you name it I did it. One last idea came to mind and that was to check each cylinder coil and module. I took the cap off of cylinder 1 and 4 and it was pitch black! Meaning it was not receiving constant sparks from the plugs which cause all of my stalling issues. I call the dealer the wanted to charge me $586.00 plus tax to change them out. Well guess what, Im not even good at working on cars but I was able to change the cylinders and module by myself. Very east to do on my car. The parts cost $21 for each cylinder and $127 for the module. Car is running like a CHAMP!!!(knock on wood!! : )

    Hope this helps anyone with stalling issues. Thanks for all of the help you all have given me.
  • falsterfalster Member Posts: 9
    I recently bought a 2001 grand prix gt. Everything is great (well there is that weird key stuck in ignition thing-but i know how to fix that anyways) the only thing that worries me is every now and then when accelerating the shifts seem a bit jerky, accompanied by an almost inaudible whine. Otherwise the car shifts smooth as glass...yes, the tranny was serviced at 76,ooo mi. it now has 93,ooo mi. so that shouldnt be the problem right?? i heard it might be the computer increasing the pressure in the tranny but why would it do that? any help please? thank you
  • ctoncton Member Posts: 1
    Have never experienced any problems with this car until now. Car has 115,000 miles. 35,000 in the last year. Day 1 the driver side air (dual air) stopped blowing cold, passenger side blows even colder now. Day 2 Air seems back to normal. (Probably unrelated to this issue). Day 3 Drove to work everything seemed fine. At lunch after car started it seemed to run a little ruff and the gas petal was 'hard' to press the first time. Seemed to run fine but idled ruff. Temp gauge ran higher than normal but did not run hot. Drove after work for about 2 miles ... car started to run hotter so had the car towed home BEFORE it ran hot. Car now will not start, it cranks strong but does not start. Fuel appears to be flowing.
  • escambiaguyescambiaguy Member Posts: 35
    I had the same problem with my 99 GT. I removed the plastic housing from the steering column, then I put one of those plastic ties(riot cuffs) around the button to hold it in permanently. When you put the cover back on, no one will ever know. There is no way I would put the money into a new part to fix this. Too many other problems.
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