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Comments
I'm not ashamed of my car now. I can say it makes me work to close the hatch, and I don't mind the eventual benefit in the form of broader shoulders. Best thing ever is when I pop the hatch from inside, then open and close my door... guess what happens? the hatch clicks shut again and makes me find that weatherproof handle to open it again! All in all, I'm proud to say that I own a normal Maxx.
Questions:
1) What do you think of the wiseness of this idea?
2) Anybody know EXACTLY how the refund is calculated? The phone rep yesterday said it is based on time AND mileage, but I'm not sure exactly how they do it. We bought the 5 year / 90,000 mile GMPP with zero deductible. Car had 5,000 miles when we bought it. So we are covered thru 95,000 miles or 5 years. Car is at 15,000 miles now and we've had it 8 months, but it was a dealer car (driven by service mgr supposedly) for a few months before we bought it.
My rough calculations were: The GMPP warranty still has 75,000 miles left (90k - 15k), so that would suggest a refund of 83.3% minus the $50 administrative fee; OR still have 52 months left (60 minus 8), for a refund of 86.7% minus $50. Am I on the right track with these calculations? What I suggested seems like the logical and fair way to calculate it, but you never know what GM might come up with.
I also plan to do more math and determine if it might actually be cheaper to cancel the existing GMPP and buy one from Black's whose prices are better than what I paid. I know the rates are higher once the vehicle is used, so it might not be worth doing what I'm describing.
One thing I learned about the GMPP. I realize some folks already knew this, but I consider myself an educated consumer and I didn't know it: Don't buy until almost 12,000 miles. To me, it seems somewhat dishonest and borderline unethical for GM and its dealers NOT to tell customers that the coverage begins at the mileage when they have purchased. E.g. if you buy a 100k warranty when car has 0 miles, the warranty expires when the car has 100k miles. But if you wait and buy warranty when car has 11,999 miles-- you still get the 'new' GMPP rate and your coverage won't expire until the car has 111,999 miles. This could be in the ballpark of an extra year of coverage, and that makes a huge difference. Of course, the dealers all pressure you to buy one right there since they know it's their best chance to make sure you buy the warranty from them, not from someone else.
For the most part, though, these things are marked up 100% by the dealer and pay off at 25-30%. You can get a higher loss ration buying mechanical insurance with a deductable through a regulated insurance company. I don't do that either.
based on hearing/reading the stories about some big automotive warranty companies going belly-up, i definitely would never buy one of those. at least not until the business climate in that area had changed drastically.
this GMPP was the first extended warranty we've ever purchased on a vehicle. with it being a first-year model, and a GM vehicle on top of that, i didn't like the prospect of being out of warranty after about 2 years (assuming 18,000 miles per year). so the 5 yr / 90k would provide an extra 3 years coverage. That's expensive coverage at $1,695 but at the time i didn't want to risk it. of course, i didn't realize i could have waited 6+ months and purchased the same warranty, extending the coverage longer because it starts when you buy the ext warranty, not when you buy the vehicle.
so far, the car has not been back to the dealer. there's a small list of issues to be resolved soon, biggest of which is what feels like warped rotors. other than that, the initial quality has been better than expected.
My impression was that Lacrosse was priced significantly higher vs. Malibu when similarly equipped. True? Not true?
In other news...
I'm going to pick up my Maxx today...FINALLY! I bought it almost a month ago! The dealer experience has been a nightmare. It took an act of Congress to have them ship my taxes and title to Vermont. I finally picked up the tags today. Another bad dealership with bad customer service. Still love the car and the price, though.
But it's not just GM - I tried getting a simple question answered from Audi and their dealers about using chains on their A3. They ignored the query completely. At least GM told me the situation with the Maxx.
If you're getting an '04 Maxx be sure to go thru these forums and make sure all the issues get addressed. Biggest thing to watch out for is the steering columm. Other than that the Maxx is one of GM's nicer cars!
On another note, I remember some talk about the Maxx being made to accommodate a cabin air filter by taking the glove compartment out and sliding a filter with substantial wiring (so it doesn't move) behind the little door.
I know some of you tried this. After a few months, have you had any problems? I think this would be an easy and helpful thing for me, being an allergy sufferer.
Record milage at every fill-up: Always 28.something.
Quiet cabin.
Decent paint job.
Haul 2x6x8' boards as well as 10 foot long pvc pipe home from Home Depot.
New computer fit great on folded down left rear 66% seat and door opening was ample. Bought a pond kit (large box) then went grocery shopping and all the groceries fit under the adjustable rear shelf.
Had the incident with the rear curtain not retracting. Dealer had to pull the headliner to fix it (children in back seat are bound to repeat that)
Recently, with windows down, one shade jumped from retainer. May need to bring it in for that fix.
AC is cold...it was 97 yesterday.
Estimated fuel milage is always off by about 3 mpg. Used to it.
Windshield has about 10 small surface chips, no cracks or holes. Seems like the windshield deals with stones by chiping. Every stone that hits the Expy creates a crack. Maxx has front end bug and stone deflector.
Biggest complaint right now is it doesn't wash itself when it gets dirty, and it never self-vacuums.
Hopes that it will be as durable as my 9 year old Contour that also still puts out ice cold air and everything in it still works.
As for the instructions for inserting a cabin air filter, simply type those words (and/or my pen name) into the search engine to the left and pull up the instructions. It is very easy.
The GM extended warranty runs concurrent with the bumper to bumper and then kicks in after the bumper to bumper expires. In my case, even though I had only 16,000 miles on the car when I canceled the warranty, GM considers the extended warranty has already been "used" for 16,000 miles. To cancel the warranty you have to go to the dealer and they have to verify vehicle mileage and file the cancelation request for you. My experience has been that the prorations are not a straight calculation. They have a figure they use to determine how much of the warranty you have already used from a monetary standpoint and then they send/credit you the difference. It may be less than you expect to receive.
"To cancel the warranty you have to go to the dealer and they have to verify vehicle mileage and file the cancelation request for you."
Funny, that is not what the GMPP guy told me over the phone the other day. Maybe things have changed since you did yours, or maybe he didn't tell me the whole story.
"They simply reduced my monthly payment to reflect the cancelation of the extended warranty. My payment went down approximately $8 per month..."
That's not what I am looking for - would much prefer the refund up front. Who knows how it might work in my case. We put about 20% down on the car. Obviously, it is in GM's interest to reduce the monthly payment, NOT to refund the remaining value.
"They have a figure they use to determine how much of the warranty you have already used from a monetary standpoint and then they send/credit you the difference. It may be less than you expect to receive."
This is what I was afraid of. It should be straightforward, but I bet it won't be. And any deviation from the straightforward/logical approach is sure to be in GM's favor.
I'll post again if I decide to go through with the cancelation.
Thanks.
I got one from them and it's great.
Which one?
http://www.autoseattle.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=hd5H04
I too have one installed..you can see pics on my malibu website...
http://home.att.net/~p.oswald
Malibu LS - $21,995
Malibu LT - $22,470
Malibu LTZ - $29,885
Malibu SS - $29,885
Malibu Maxx LT - $25,595
Malibu Maxx LTZ - $31,495
Malibu Maxx SS - $31,495
Better than Maxx:
1. Seat surfaces, although most people complain that they look like terry cloth seem slightly better than the Maxx LS. Neither look top flight.
2. Haven't measured but it looks like there's a bit more hip room front and back.
3. Dash, especially radio/HVAC stack looked better up close than in pictures, much better than the standard GM module. Not sure if Hyundai has all of the information contained in the GM information center. Fit and finish look better than Maxx. Automatic climate control, gauges nicer finished.
Worse than Maxx:
1. Door pulls on Sonata were hard plastic and cheap. Maxx much better feel and texture. Both cars need more of these textures.
2. Front headroom was better but this may have been because Sonata had sun roof.
Rear headroom is also a lot better (not sure this would be the case with the 'Bu sedan)
3. Front leg room seemed roughly equal. The Maxx had a lot more legroom in back and you can't beat all that flexibility of reclining seats.
4. Somewhere in the Hyundai threads is a photo chop of a Sonata wagon. It looks great-- too bad it's not available. As it now stands the Sonata is every bit as slick as an Accord or Camry but it's no where as unique in its concept as the Maxx. The flexibility of the hatch plus the long wheelbase is hard to beat.
5. Throw in the stonger (despite the complaints) dealer network that Chevy brings to the table, plus the low maintenance of the timingbeltless OHV engine (Hyundai may be going to a timing chain rather than belts on its new engines) and I think the Maxx edges the Sonata out. Especially since I only paid $16K for mine and the Hyundai is still selling as close to invoice-- something that should change shortly. Since you can get a Maxx V-6 for less than a Sonata 4 and since the Maxx gets great mileage for such a large engine the value equation (at least so far) favors the Maxx.
-- Many of the advantages of the Maxx are because of its layout and flexibility. I think I might pick a Sonata over a 'Bu 4-door sedan except for my experience with the local Hyundai dealer.
--Both cars seem to be as good or better than the Camcord. The Sonata seems to be much more polished than the previous car but is less imaginative. The 'Bu is a huge improvement over the previous generation although its styling (especially the front end clip) looks clumsy, but the Maxx is a wondefully flexible and unique looking car.
I'm glad I got the 'Bu.
However, it was the Hyundai dealer that sent me racing back to Chevy. The Hyundai dealership was an absolute zoo. They were using every "trick" in the book to get you inside. Once there it was like trying to purchase from the guy on the corner with 25 watches on his arm. Unbelieveable that Hyundai would allow these tactics. As I said, it just sent me racing back to Chevy. So far, I'm very satisfied with my decision.
The most annoying ploy is to put an 18 (or they seem that young anyway), in your car for the test drive. Always seem especially annoying. Then you get: "How much to buy this car today?" If you say "I'm not interested" They counter with "How about $10,000? (the last time they tried this it was when the Tucson was introduced)."
Last time I whipped out my credit card and said "OK-- Ten grand, let's put it on there." At which point-- they back off. I got into a shouting match at that point with the sales manager accusing him of sleazy tactics.
To this you add the hundreds of dollars for undercoating and sealant that are on every car. It's not just Hyundai, the dealer also handles Saabs, VW's, Suzukis and Nissans.
My Chevy buying experience through the Internet was fast and professional. Absolutely no hassle.
Maybe GM could save the Maxx if they:
1. Dump FWD for mod version of Caddy's Sigma RWD powertrain and MANUAL trans,
2. Use small block V8 (Southstar ?) - 350 hp and up,
3. Chop roof 4 - 6".
4. Lower car 2",
4. Add 20" wheels with Lo-prof tires
VOILA...the Mini Chrysler 300!
Unfortunately, the airbag is not retrofittable to 2004 Maxxes, as far as I know. For 2004 side hits, the torso is not well protected but the head comes out ok, if you have side curtain bags. Without those, the car is rated poor.
Not sure why - hatches can be very attractive (save for the hatch cutting off rather abruptly, the Maxx's lines seem pretty good).
Wrt Volkswagen, the Jetta vastly outsells the Golf in the USA, while In europe and elsewhere, it's the other way around.
I had looked at the XB but its echo chassis and 108 HP engines were turnoffs. Still, the street set loves to dub the car. The Vibe/matrix were kinda nice but why Toyota put the weakest engine together with AWD was a total mystery.
The Maxx seems to have a nice amount of power for its size, especially at lower revs. And the flexibility helped sell me on it.
Hope this car gives me many years of great service. I plan to keep it until 2012 at least. Sorry to hear GM's making such a terrible decision to stop production. :confuse:
Meanwhile noted a few insects stuck against the HVAC air intake screen inside the housing - will brush those off when the cabin filter is replaced.
The filter definitely keeps a lot of dirt from getting blown into the cabin!
D~
1. Open glovebox door, and gently pull in the glovebox drawer sides so that it pops past the dashboard trim and hangs straight down.
2. You will now see the HVAC fan housing and a small rectangular door in its upper front. A small latch above the door can be pushed upward, causing this door to drop down. Once it's open, you will see the inside of the HVAC fan cavity, including fan and a screen leading to the outside of the cabin. (note...there are screw holes in this door that suggest the door was intended to be screwed shut, but on my Maxx, screws were never installed).
3. Inside this cavity, it is possible to install a SATURN ION cabin filter (about $27 or so) if you first make a "floor screen" for the filter to rest on (this helps the filter fit the cavity, and prevents the fan from inhaling the filter into its blades).
One way to make this "screen" is to get a WEB furnace filter from your favorite hardware store, and trim its plastic rectangular grille so it fits into the bottom of the HVAC fan cavity.
4. Once you have the "screen floor" slid into place, slide the Saturn ION cabin filter over it and into the cavity with the filters' Airflow indicator pointing down.
5. Now close the HVAC door, push the latch back down to lock the door closed, and lift the glovebox drawer and door back into place.
Voila - your Maxx cabin now has filtered air. Depending on how much dust you drive through, you may need to change it within as little as 5K miles, but mine lasted for about 10-12K in a dusty desert environment.
It may be possible to trim furnace filters to fit, but keep in mind they were not designed for automotive use or environments.
Good luck!
is the article regarding the ending of the Maxx.