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Chevy Malibu Maxx

1848587899095

Comments

  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I upgraded to a 17 inch custom rim and have 245/50-17 michelin sport A/S on them..the ride and responsiveness is great..but as you mentioned..I do lose a little MPG..still get around 26 in the city..and 30-32 on the highway depending on the cruise control settings...
  • maddmaxxmaddmaxx Member Posts: 81
    Boy, I just can't seem to get past 28 mpg. Do you use regular gas?

    The rear calipers are marked Akebono, so I'm assuming the pads are the same brand. Nice quality from the factory. I think if the rotors are upgraded, warping may no longer be an issue.
  • maddmaxxmaddmaxx Member Posts: 81
    I'm seeing alot of posts on the new SM oils being bad for older cars as well as cars with flat tappets. I'm assuming the pushrod Chevy's are affected? Any knowledge on the subject out there?
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    SM oils???....as in sythnetic???
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    us regular gas 87 octane....got almost 34 MPG coming home last night on the interstate...a 200 mile drive....no A/C doing 70 with the cruise control on.....I usually average around 26 in town.....Im also running synthetic motor oil as well...not sure that makes a big difference
  • maddmaxxmaddmaxx Member Posts: 81
    Any oil that is API SM on the back. I've been reading about alot of failures and severe engine wear due to these new oils not containing certain additives in order to lower emissions. Check this article out: http://ultimategto.blogspot.com/
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I can't link to forums but you might want to read up at bobistheoilguy.

    Despite being ohv, the 3.5 is a thoroughly modern engine that is very easy on oil. The new SM oils, despite being more cat-friendly are very, very good. I use Pennzoil since I take the OLM down to 10% or less (use SuperTech and short oil changes to keep my Kia Optima in warranty). Any oil with a good add pack should be able to easily do 7000 miles-- that's dino BTW. Modern 5w30's, unlike fifteen years ago stay in grade and don't shear like they used to.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    How much do you guys trust or utilize the oil life monitor in deciding when to change the oil? Our 2004 Maxx sees a lot of easy highway miles, and the oil life drops right around 10% every 1,000 miles -- so basically, the computer is saying the oil is spent (0%) around 10,000 miles. I've never gone past 5-6k miles on oil in our Maxx, and usually it is changed around 4-5k. Am I being overly conservative?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    In short, yes. Highway miles are easier on an engine, so you can expect to go longer between oil changes since the oil is less inclined to break down under those circumstances. I change the oil every 6k with Mobil 1. Both cars are driven in/around the city only. I would likely do 6k changes with regular oil if I drove on the highway all the time.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    I usually change between 20 and 30 % on the monitor
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    The OLM is very sophisticated and set for dino oil. I just changed at 13% with dealer installed semi-syn. I normally use Pennzoil 5w30. I change every 3000 miles on my Optima because of warranty and use ST, but the extra push on the Maxx means a heavier ad. pack.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks for the replies!

    If a warranty issue arose and all we had were receipts showing oil changes done at 5k or 8k intervals, how would we prove that the oil life monitor 'told us' it was okay to go that long between changes? I don't expect to have any issues -- our '04 LT is at 81k and going smooth -- but this question has occurred to me before.

    Does the computer store any historical data about how many miles since last oil life reset, average miles per unit (1 percent I suppose) of oil life used, etc??
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I dont believe it stores data...but Im sure GM is well aware of the GMOL functions and mileage.......would think if you show regular oil changes within time frames and mileage that are less than outlined in the owners manual for maximum intervals based on the GMOL that you should be OK,

    106k on mine and been using the GMOL since day one....synthetic oil in mine since 30K and change about 7K or so......and about 20%
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Assume that given your driving you change oil at 7000, and that this shows about 15% on your OLM. You have your receipts. Your engine craps out and the OLM shows 35% and your odometer 5000 since your last change. Given this, what right would the dealer have to deny?

    Can't link to other forums but there was an interesting post on bobistheoilguy about two or three years ago from the GM engineer that devised the OLM algorithm. Let's just say that it's set for dino, is very sophisticated and very conservative. You could probably run a couple of thousand miles at 0% without any real damage. This guy was so forceful and so dismissive of paying for synthetic that he angered all of the Amsoil salespeople and was summarily dropped from the list. With the right kind of searching you could find some of his posts, I don't think they were removed when he was.

    Besides it's not the engine that's going to make us drop the car, it's things like front end troubles. It's got an almost bullet-proof power train (cross fingers here).
  • wishbone3wishbone3 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I am new to the site and am looking for some info. I have an 05 maxx and am going on my 3rd rack and pinion and the dealer swears there is no problem. I should have looked this site up after they put the 2nd one in. I bought 4 new tires around 36,000 because they wore from the inside out and now my new ones are doing the same. Any help or info would be great. Thanks
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I assume you've checked the steering suspension threads for both the Malibu and the Maxx.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    With the driving I do, the Oil Life Monitor on our Maxx tracks very closely to 1% drop per 100 miles driven. Right now I'm at 2,400 miles since last oil change (and OLM reset) and showing 77% oil life on the monitor.

    I'm confident our Maxx's engine will last very long. My question wasn't so much a worry about my car as it was a general thinking out loud about how GM handles this issue. When some manufacturers are quick to deny warranty coverage because people went 1 mile past 3,000 for a change interval, it is a different approach for GM to use an oil life monitor and advise people to follow its recommendations which often result in much longer oil change intervals than the traditional 3,000 miles.

    Knock on wood, our 2004 LT hasn't had ANY of the front-end troubles or any of the other typical Maxx problems, except for the OEM rotors being too wimpy and warping quickly. We replaced them with aftermarket ones and going strong 40k mostly highway miles later.
  • wishbone3wishbone3 Member Posts: 4
    I don't check anything as I am a woman and wouldn't know where to begin except that I do the regular maintenance on my car and know that it shouldn't be going on its 3rd steering bar. Should I assume the dealer has checked it? Didn't I read something about a bulletin from GM about this problem? How do I look into that?
    Thanks for your time.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I assume they are doing a good front end alignment when they change out the rack.....if not..that will cause the wear on the tires....I have my alignment checked every 6 months.....and have well over 40K on my current set...with 106k on the car....
  • wishbone3wishbone3 Member Posts: 4
    Well...you would've thought but all they did was a "toe". When I got the new tires after the 2nd rack was put in, I had the tire people align it and they said it was way out of whack.
    Nobody does anything more than they need to now a days.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Are there any reasons to have some of these major maintenance items (spark plug replacement, auto trans fluid drain/fill, etc) done by the dealer instead of an independent shop? Just curious if any of these items are tricky or if the OEM parts might work better than what the local shop would use, etc etc etc.

    Our 2004 LT just passed 82k miles and I'm thinking about 'investing' several hundred bucks to take care of a few of these items and keep the car running ship shape.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    first simply check prices.....nothing tricky about any of them...the transmission flush and fill surprises some as the fill hole is on top of the transmission housing since there is no dip stick in the malibu.....I provided all the parts to my local shop (plugs, belts, filters, gaskets etc) and let them provide the fluids......the real difference was the labor costs....my shop is about %20 less than the dealers on labor....about to roll over 107k on my 04 LT
  • wishbone3wishbone3 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I see many have had same problem > I am going in on Thursday (10/18/07) to get my 3rd in. I am going to have a talk with the service manager first, the the GM Rep. What annoys me is that I had asked several times if this was a known problem. But I just kept getting ignored or told no.
  • haulthault Member Posts: 130
    PAO I am experiencing the "warped rotor" pulsing pedal. What did you do for rotors at brake time? I noticed a drilled HP rotor listed for the Maxx. Has anyone tried it?
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I never have had a true warped rotor as always insured the lug nuts where torqued properly...one brake job at 64k..turned all rotors.....need another one now at 108K, still using OEM rotors.....will probably replaced the front rotors with an standard aftermarket rotor.....drilled or slotted rotors for the Maxx arent necessary IMHO and are more for show on this car...save the money...use plain ones...

    check out brakeplanet for some good prices...
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    I swear, you got like the one Maxx that doesn't have brake problems. ANY problems, for that matter. My OEM rotors didn't last 25k. Dealer said that we did better than many.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    yeah Matt. I went with the AC Delco rotors on the front during my brake work at 40k. I wasn't about to go back to OEM rotors.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Are you saying the replacement ACD parts are different? Did GM off load its OEM rotors away from ACDelco, or just that the aftermarket is better? I know Champion Labs makes many of the AC Delco branded filters, has GM done the same with the rotors?
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    it has its little problems...but I guess I dont make a big deal of them...I have the clunk in the front suspension....it doesnt bother me.....after seeing everyone here go in for fixes and it really not help that much.....why honestly bother....

    Steering column was never an issue....dont know why....my little things are the led back lights now working on two panel buttons now at night....no big deal....but nothing certainly mechanical to complain about.....IMHO my Maxx has been a solid car.....109K and hoping to see 150-175K out of it.....Im in the market for a new car this spring..but he Maxx will be kept as a third car for us.....
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Browsing owner's manual to see what maintenance items are required/recommended/encouraged. 2004 Maxx LT, 4 years old, 83k miles, 70% highway miles, car lives an easy life pretty much.

    Will be calling my local shop and local dealer in the next few days to get their thoughts on what should be done now and what isn't necessary.

    Questions:
    1. Would you service the auto transmission on YOUR Maxx? Owners manual says to change the transaxle fluid every 50k miles if on severe service, otherwise no fluid change necessary on regular service. Do you consider this $100 or so to be a wise preventive measure, or needless spending?

    2. Fuel filter -- I don't see it mentioned. Is this a replaceable item on Maxx?

    3. Fuel system and air induction system -- seems wise to have these cleaned every couple/few years. What do you folks think?

    4. Anybody had the cooling system serviced yet? Manual says 5 years / 150k miles. Is there any reason to do this on a 4 year old Maxx with 83k miles, or should I wait another year?

    5. Is a yearly cooling pressure test a waste of money? Kinda defeats the benefit of the long-life coolant if you are spending $$ every year to have the cooling system pressure tested!

    6. Spark plugs -- recommend replace @ 100k miles. Manual says replace plugs @ 100k and INSPECT wires. Does it make sense to replace the plugs but leave the old wires if they look okay?

    Right now, this is what I'm considering doing:
    1. Oil change, tire rotation, alignmentm new air filter -- not really part of the major service but my Maxx is due.

    2. Coolant flush/fill

    3. Fuel filter change (if applicable)

    4. Inspect 'stuff' - hoses, brakes, belts, suspension, etc.

    5. Replace spark plugs and wires.

    6. Transmission fluid and filter replacement.

    7. Lube hinges, key locks, etc.

    Really, there isn't a whole lot that NEEDS to be done -- the Maxx has a pretty easygoing maintenance schedule IMO.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    Below are just my opinions nothing more.

    Questions

    1)Yes.

    2)See #3 below

    3)With 70% highway, probably not needed, but couldn't hurt.

    4)You are pretty close to the 5 year mark, I would

    5)See #2 below

    6)I would change both.

    Under consideration:
    1)All this sounds good.

    2)I would think as long as the fluid is up and still a good colour orange it is not needed at this time.

    3)Fuel filter is a part of the fuel pump and is inside the tank, could be pretty expensive.

    4)Always a good idea.

    5)Your within 20K couldn't hurt

    6)Again a good idea, my dealer says there is no way to service the tranny. Even tho my private mechanic says he can with a Delco tranny filter, go figure.

    7)Again always a good idea

    You may want to do a battery / alternator load test, if you live in snow country.

    Good luck
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    If it were my car, I'd do #1 and #7 myself. I would not do any of the other items at your mileage and date of ownership, especially if you do not have any type of extended warranty to worry about. Preventative maintenance is great for rich people. Take the maintenance numbers in our owner's manual with a very large grain of salt.
    As for the fuel induction service (BG), I did mine already, but as pao already scolded me, it probably was a waste of money after only 30,000 miles. As for the alignment, why get one just because? Do you have uneven tire wear? If not, don't get it aligned, or at the most, get the alignment checked. I have been amazed at the alignment on the Maxx. Despite a pathetically poor front end on these cars, I have not had any unusual tire wear or wheel pull, and I drive 100% city on pretty harsh roads.
    The only preventative maintenance item that people should look hard at are the hoses and belts. I believe our cars have timing chains, so that isn't anything to worry about, but if the hoses start getting soft, get them out.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    We have a $0 deductible GM Major Guard bumper-to-bumper warrnanty thru 95k miles. So far, we have hardly used it at all -- off the top of my head, a thermostat replacement is the only thing I can recall.

    Re: alignment, the car has been pulling somewhat to the left. I don't really notice it any more, but my wife drove the car the other day and said, 'your car is really pulling to the left.'
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    You may want to check the air pressure in the tires, low air can cause a pull to one side or the other.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    All: how has the alignment been on your Maxx? I've been amazed that after 3 years, no alignments.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    RE-Tire pressure. I had Costco put some after market, Costco-specific BFG Touring tires on my Maxx. Seeming alignment problems solved when I found out they had 40+ lbs. in the right front tire-- had told them 35. No other alignment problems in almost 3 years, 49,000 miles.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I always do an aligment when I purchase new tires..that said I have purchased one set at around 50K....and bought the three year alignment program through a local merchant....I rotate about every 10k and have them check the alignment then......have 109k on the car now.....and have had only one minor adjustment....the Maxx seems to hold the alignment very well......
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    here is what I did from my 100k service....actually had it performed at about 97K...replaced plugs, wires, transmission fluid/filter, all belts....adn I have been running synthetic oil since 30K and change it every 7,500 or whenever the GMOL gets to 25%..whichever comes first..

    I will probably flush the coolant before next summer and will have the brake system flushed at the next brake service has all original fluids......will be my second brakes service....replaced all pads and turned rotors at 64K....and is due probably within the next 5K with my pad wear....may also need rotor replacement as well...
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Alignment on our Maxx has been pretty good considering 3 years of driving with plenty of bad potholes etc. The car seemed to drive straight until about 70k miles or so. I was confident enough that it was still aligned that I did NOT have an alignment done when we put on the first set of replacement tires around 50k miles.

    I check the air pressure often enough; out-of-whack air pressure is not the reason our car is pulling to the left.
  • swavekswavek Member Posts: 6
    I would also replace air filter. I am going to replace it in my Maxx next week at 30K.
  • maddmaxxmaddmaxx Member Posts: 81
    I've done everything by the book on mine, using Redline oil and Wix filters basically. The belt is 150k. I did all the service myself and the worst thing I noticed is some cracks in the ceramic insulator around the iridium in the factory AC Delco NGK plugs. I replaced them with Autolite Iridium as well as some Magnecor wires. I haven't ever changed the air filter because I added an air filter monitor and I'm still in the ok zone there. Pretty amazing. And I have 121k. No brake job yet, but the rears are close and since they are Akebono's, I ordered some from the Tire Rack to be ready. :)
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    tell us more about the air filter monitor...and 121K on the OEM brakes is pretty amazing......must be a lot of highway miles there......110K here and just had my second brake service done...and replaced two front rotors.....
  • maddmaxxmaddmaxx Member Posts: 81
    Basically, it's a Filter Minder brand listed in any Wix Catalog. I had to drill a hole in the top of the air filter housing and it fits with a grommet just like what is factory on Diesel trucks except the vacuum levels read differently. When the filter stops up to a certain point, it pulls vacuum and there is a spring loaded indicator that moves. It's calibrated to let you know when to change it before it affects performance.

    Brakes. I have very good luck with brakes. Just got 152k out of my wifes rear brakes on her Trooper. The car did have lots of highway miles and my dad taught me how to be easy on them.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    great thanks for the info....heck..stop and go traffic in the Northern VA area.....we do good to get 40-60 K out of a set of brakes......
  • hhmaxhhmax Member Posts: 44
    Today is the first day that the overnight temp droped below 0 deg C and I've had the coolant level low msg on the DIC. So I opened the hood and noticed that the coolant level IS low: about 3-4 inches below the cold full mark. It's been over a year since the last annual check which presumably would have the coolant level topped up if it was low. My question is, is this normal to loose coolant over a year? The car is maxx 05 LT. I'll take the car to the dealer. What and where to look for the leak? Intake gasket?

    Thanks!
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    Is this the first time since your last service, that you checked under your hood?? It is not normal to lose coolant. You must be careful with the new Dex-cool antifreeze. If the system starts sucking air because the level is low, it is thought this can cause the Dex-cool to start doing harm to the system.
  • hhmaxhhmax Member Posts: 44
    When the car warms up, the coolant level in the overflow tank is at or slightly above the Cold Full mark.

    What did you meant "..new Dex-cool antifreeze"? The top up I added? The car came with the brownish Dex-cool I think.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    It shouldn't be brown should be a bright almost bubble gum pink . When warmed up it should be about the level of the seam of the overflow tank.
  • hhmaxhhmax Member Posts: 44
    hmm, is this the infamous sludge/rust that drex-cool problem in GM vehicles? I did notice the brownish mark on the overflow tank.
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