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I hope you will enjoy your new CR-V for many many years!
For other prospective buyers I would recommend to do enough research and have a couple quotes in hands from other dealerships before steping into one...
Thanks to this site and others, I have been able to secure a price on an all-new CR-V EX AWD on-the-road for $26,650 ish including taxes, tags, dealer fees, etc. Also includes wheel locks, splash guards, and accent stripping (don't know what that is?). On top of that, dealer is offering $500 in "flex cash" if I finance $5,000 through Honda.
Total on-the-road, including "flex cash," is $26,150. Dealer is Honda in Parkville, MD.
Thanks again!
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Later, I found the pinstripe was still there. So I think that package was already included in the base. The price may be lower to about $23000 without any options.
Overall, I am happy with this price, and I really like the car. Hope this is helpful for other people.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Until I spoke with Ryan Kinkel at Fuller Honda. His email response gave a complete OTD breakdown of: Fuller Honda eprice, DMV fees, Electronis transfer fee, Calif. tire fee, Calif.State Sales Tax @ 7.75%
While the eprice as not the "best quote" I had seen, the lack of delivery fees et al made this a very good quote. And I very much appreciated that Ryan's first offer was clean, up-front, and very nearly what I hoped to achieve.
Price paid: In the end I paid for an LX AWD 2013 CR-V: $23,300+Fees+TTL (7.75% sales tax) = ~$25,550 (to the nearest $50, not going to go grab the paperwork to find the precise final number).
Financing: I walked in with a 1.75% 36-month USAA loan. Initially the finance manager told me that the best they could do for me was 3%. But upon pulling out the USAA loan they matched it. Surprise surprise.
From DCH Auto Group Honda, Temecula, California
I live in LA and had to drive to get this car; but worth it because it's the only car with the options and color combination I want, with only 15 miles on odometer (no previous test drives); in other words, exactly everything I was looking for. I did not wait until end of month and don't think it made a big difference here - if they have the car on the lot, the dealer's internet guy will want to sell it before someone else sells it.
MSRP including $830 Destination Fee:$31,025
Edmunds Invoice including 830 Dest Fee: $29,171
My cash price incl Dest Fee: $28,950
3 keys:
1. Yes dealers with car already on the lot give the lowest quotes. Get as many quotes as you could by email. Don't call - email is your advantage, phone is their advantage because they are trained to verbally press you and they are good at it. If an internet guy doesn't want to give you a quote by email and want you to call: Move on as it is going to be a waste of time. He likely doesn't have the car you want or the price you want, and just wants to bs you into something else.
2. Start all negotiations with the following understanding clearly expressed to salesman: No alarm system, no add-on, no pin stripe, no cloth or paint treatment (Propack or whatever), no extended insurance or maintenance plans . These are all bad boys' tricks to confuse the issues and increase the price you have to pay. Keep it simple at first to avoid confusion situations, which the dealers always win.
3. All prices negotiated are with destination fee included. Doesn't have to be, but whichever way it is, make sure that this is clear between you and the salesperson.
Other fees I paid: Don't know if they are all legit, but I got such a low price for the car and these fees are low enough that they are OK with me. You might want to look at this too: http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html
1. Doc fee $80 (max allowed for California, each state is different and there is a table in Edmunds website above listing the max dest. fee allowed for each state).
2. Tax $2540.13
3. Electronic Vehicle Registration Charge $26
4. Vehicle License Fee $188
5. Registration Fee $100
6. California Tire Fee $8.75
Good luck. I don't think every dealer is going to go $221 under invoice, especially if you are not in a competitive area like Los Angeles, but do keep in mind that this lowest point is how low they are willing to go if supply-demand is in your favor. Again, make sure everything is settled by email and in writing before you show up at the show room. Remember: In general, email dealings: you win; phone or direct dealings, they win. ;-) They love to get you to the show room to negotiate because the pressure then is on you, don't. Stay home and settle everything by email and the only thing you do when you show up to the show room is to pick up the car, and say *NO* to everything else that they want to sell you.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks. I understand your point about using phone - much faster than email. Because I don't do this routinely, don't have as much experience as you for example, and, like many here, hate dealing with dealers and their pressure tactics, I love dealing by email. Everything is in black and white from beginning, no game and confusion, which the dealers are masters at. Email allows me to ignore them for a few hours when I need to do more research or just leave them in suspense :shades: :confuse: and for me is the great equalizer.
Questions please: Before I started looking around, I had looked on this site and noticed someone mentioned somewhere 200 under invoice is what I should be looking for. Once I started emailing dealers, sure enough, the lowest quotes hang around that area - 200 under invoice.
1. Is there a reason that all the dealers seem to stop at 200 under invoice as the bottom line, consistently? I assume it's their break even point?
2. Does this 200 under invoice "rule" apply to other cars as well, for example, Nissan, Toyota, etc.? TIA.
"Scatter55": In Southern Cal, the lowest price quote that I was able to get for a 2013 EX-L AWD w/NAV is about 200 under invoice (about 2 out 8 dealers or so). I find dealers give the lowest quote if the car with exact options and color you want is already on the lot, ie they don't have to get it from another dealer.
My cash price is $27903. I also added All Season Protection Package, cargo organizer, body side molding which cost $666.14.
My OTD price is $31724.77 includes tax and doc fees.
It's not the best deal in this forums but it's the best I can get in Northwest.
Your a smart buyer. I started buying like you by email when the internet was 1st born in the early 90's. Works great as you see. Its the only way to buy . You save many wasted hours in the showroom with that whole nonesense of let me go to my manager 5x. about how they cant do that price....lol. Car buying is a negotiation every thing is negotiable.
200 under invoice has no signifigance. Every dealer has there bottom line selling price, That depends on how many cars a dealer wants to sell at a certain price. High volume dealerships get more incentive money for selling more vehicles thats why they will sell way below invoice. Example; Waymouth Honda in M.A. will give you a internet quote for 500 below invoice price right on line for a 2013 Honda Accord your choice. I'm sure they are selling CRV's the same way. Use that quote aganist every dealer you call.. Most dealers will match or beat that price guaranteed. Supply and Demand always play a part in the pricing game. By Jan,2013 Many dealerships will be selling below invoice due to large supplies on there lots . Gotta know how to play the game
lastly on these so called Doc Fee's. All they are is added profit for the dealer.. always try to get them removed or split cost with dealer. You have to tell dealership that its a deal breaker. Buy a vehicle for 200 below Dealer invoice and then pay $399 or more in doc fee's is a joke. The dealer just sold that vehicle to you for $199 ABOVE invoice price with his high doc/ paperwork fee.. dealer also gets his full dealer hold-back on you of $600 to 1000 from the Honda Corp. Not bad for quick sale on his part.. Most dealer hold backs are 2 to 3% of total M.S.R.P. Now add on any Incentive and rebate from the manufactorer back to the dealer..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Dont know how the Supply and Demand are by you. That being said if you need to buy now your best deal might only be around Invoice price. Call 10 dealerships in your area. Tell each dealer for xxx below invoice and no doc fee's i buy today. Do this on the last 2 days of the month. you will receive your best deal buying this way. Then you could decide which deal is best. That so called 1.5 % and protection pck tell them no its a deal breaker. I find being firm and telling each dealer what i want AND no add on's cause its a deal breaker works every time.. Email WAYMOUYH HONDA IN M.A. for a internet price quote and use that against every dealer in your area.. Good luck,,,, Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I'm paying cash and looking in the Detroit area, when people mention "offer below invoice", how do I know what invoice is? On all the car sites, I can easily find the MSRP but cannot figure out if invoice is the same for all dealerships.
Also, those that mention to email a dealership, are you emailing via the general email form the dealership website or a specific person (internet sales, etc) - I cannot find any internet sales specific address in any of the sites I looked today. Also, do I just give me price and ask them to get back to me?
Finally, when I ask for the OTD price, can I also ask for the mats/mud guards/etc in my price. Will dealerships throw these things (in your experience).
I have a fixed amount of cash on hand and if anyone has a dealership or sales person in either Detroit/Toledo/Ann Arbor/Lansing - I'm prepared to buy White/Beige leather AWD Navi. (Its a long shot).
Oh and last question (for now), if I wait until Jan, will the 2013 have further movement in price? I can totally wait until the end of Jan as Xmas is busy as is.
Cheers.
1. Start here: http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2013/options.html?style=200436017 . Check the car you want, invoice is under the third tag, "True Market Value."
2. The 4th tag "Get Dealer Quotes" is where your requests are sent to the dealers' internet departments. Each zip code entered give you a few dealers; I enter multiple different zip codes (not just my home's) to send it to more dealers than just the one around my house.
3. If you want a specific dealer that is not offered in 2 above, go to that specific dealer's web site; the quote request from that web site will go to the dealer's internet sale department. I assume you could also call up and ask for the guy the way Brian does it, but I've never done that.
4. Car comes with mat; you could ask for mud guard but only do that at the end. Remember KEEP IT SIMPLE because that works in your favor, the little money you gain from asking for mud guard discount will just confuse the big picture. Nothing is free so if you ask for something salesperson HAS TO make it back somewhere else and it just prolongs the pain of back and forth negotiation (sales people LOVE to negotiate, it's their life, their job, their love; we don't). Keep in simple and makes sure salesman knows this from the beginning: no alarm, no pin stripe, no add on, no extended warranty (you could add later), no extended maintenance plan, no cloth protection, no paint protection. Don't even try to explain yourself on the no extended warranty for example: just a simple and firm "no I am not interested." If he asks why, the answer is "because I am not interested," don't even try to explain.
Could you please provide dealership name. I am actively looking for same type of vehicle , ready to pay that price
By the way what accessories did you got , you mentioned about propack , which might include - Trunk tray, Wheel locks , splash guards.
What about windows tint, Door edge guards, Pinstripes - is your price included those ?
I have been emailing dealers like I have been reading to do..not saying anything about me paying cash (Clarke Howard says NEVER NEVER NEVER say you are paying cash) I got 3 different offers so far. (1)2012 Camry SE 4cyl w/moonroof (as I wanted) They said my internet price is $22,673.00 plus tax,tag & title Only!!! MSRP $27,163.00.They also said they never charge Any Additional Dealer Fees.
(2) Next place on Camry SE 2012 MSRP $25,735.00 and they say my "Drive Out" price is $23,335.70,free lifetime powertrain warranty.
(3) And lastely, on a CR-V this email quote I received on 2012 CRV LX 2WD they say MSRP 23,525, invoice 22,324.79 and then it says internet Sales Price 21,974.79 (including destination of 830, excluding all accessories or add-ons, dealer fees, sales tax & title)
This is the first car I am buying sine 1999 when I purchased new a Honda Odyssey (been through 3 transmissions etc.etc.etc) I now have 190,000 miles on it and it is presently in shop. I thought it was the tran again but turns out just a 200.00 bill. I also bought that case 26,000 was n ot negotiabe (don't know why) they claimed they had one left w/lo jack installed by someone who was going to buy, backed out so we took that one. I probably got ripped off then too. I probably won't buy until end January 2013 as I have been reading better to do at end of month and new year for prev. years model. I am also newly divorced woman, older (53) and although I am no fool, I am not a car salesman and don't want them to "See Me Coming". lol I want to be smarter this time. Have one income...Mine!!
Thank you all for any advise you can give me.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
This is for the EXL AWD w/Nav
Selling price: $28,140.54
Destination: $ 830.00
Documentation: $ 190.00
File Fee: $ 24.00
Sales Tax: $ 1,751.07
Title: $ 15.00
TOTAL: $30,950.61 + Plate
Another dealership that I sent this said they will knock off another $300 but that is the lowest they will go ($30, 650.00 + plate transfer)
Honestly, emailing as you all advised has been painless and quick. No sales pressure and I can feel the upper hand on my side!
Now negoiating for a 2013 EXL AWD. Thanks to the information here I got them down to what I think is a very good price. Meet with the dealer tomorrow and if all goes as quoted verbally, I will have a deal close to the lowest price posted here. And if that does not go as I expect, I will walk. I have another dealer nearby ready to meet the price. Wish me luck and again thanks for the advice. I am almost enjoying this.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
2013 CR-V AWD EX - NO other options
Vehicle Price $23,481 + Dest. Fee $830 = $24,311 TOTAL
2013 CR-V AWD LX - NO other options
Vehicle Price $21,515 + Dest. Fee $830 = $22,345 TOTAL
This does NOT include:
NYState sales tax (8%)
NYState Reg Fee $61
NYState Tire Mgt. Fee $12.50
NYState Inspection $10
Dealer Paperwork Fee $75
I haven't decided which one I'm buying yet but I'm leaning toward the 2013 EX.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
The following are from edmunds site:
Base Price + destination = Final Price
Invoice: $24,549 + 830 = $25,379
MSRP: $26,145 + 830 = $26,975
TMV: $25,183 + 830 = $26,086
Other posts indicate that 200-500 below is invoice is good starting point. How can dealer sell at such a price?
I am looking for similar CRV and thanks to all for such helpful here.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I am planning to buy this month end, hoping that Christmas would be good season to get deals guessing dealers would be trying to meet year end target. Do you think we would get better deals in January than now or later in December. Thanks.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Good thing we got a better deal at another dealer. As I reported $26,649 including destination and conveyance plus a flat screen TV. I am pleased.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
My wife got this quote for 2013 CR-V EX 2WD:
Sales price: $23,625
Dealer fees: $700 (dealer won't budget on this)
Plus TTL
Is this a good deal? What everyone thinks?
I'm sure afterwards I'll be much more educated on car buying.
Thank you for making my day!!