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23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I was responding to this message from fhb716
where he listed prices from a NY dealer (no name provided).
I listed the prices from edmunds.com website which seemed to be $1000 above what he was able to negotiate for CR-V 2013 EX-L AWD which seemed great price.
Thanks.
The dealer we bought at is Schaller Honda in New Britain, CT. The one I walked out of was Hoffman Honda in Simsbury. Jay
http://www.voiceofthedriver.com/node/70198
1- Tell dealer Doc fee's are a deal breaker, or let them take what ever the doc fee's are and minus off sale of CRV. alot of dealers will do this to get your business.
2- I know N.Y. and N.J dmv fee's have gone up. This is his fee for his service plus the state dmv charge. dont think you will get him down on that to much
3 your leverage in this deal is letting what ever dealership your buying from Know.... meet my price i buy right now..... Otherwise your like every other caller or someone walking in showroom. Buying a car is a negotiation and every thing is negotiable. Call 10 dealerships with Meet my price i buy NOW.. good luck..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
but includes window tint, strips and handle paint protector. "
tint is $89, strips is $49. and handle paint cost nothing, and he doesnt get cargo cover which should comes with car so he must meant cargo tray. and wheel lock splash guard and cargo cover and door guard should be somewhere around $550. (584 with tax)
so do the math, this so called best deal should be $24990, assume kumar had to finance with honda to get $500 coupon. so the real deal is about $25490 drive out. which is a great deal for brand new 2012 CRV EX. it could be the best deal in town. if you allow to choose cars colors etc. there is no point to shoot for any lower,unless you have free life and free gas, you might save another $100 or so, if you choose to spend months to save $100 ,i dont think it worth it. But I know there are still people out there will spend $2 more on gas to drive to a store further to save 50 cent on banana etc. which you might thought you saved money, but logically you did not.
and some people can just say whatever you want to hear, like I can say I bought one last week for $23965 drive out, which is not true.
let me know if you have more questions.
I've emailed about 20 dealers or so and this is my best quote so far.
2013 Honda CRV EX 2WD
Car Price = $22,917 (includes $830 destination fee)
Doc fee = $499
Tax = $300 (SC flat tax)
Title = $168
Comes with no extras, but they said "car mats won't come between me selling you a car"
I'm located in South Carolina
Thoughts???
2013 CRV EX Fwd Invoice price w dest charge is $22,917
Your deal is $1292 below dealers invoice price
Try to negotiate that $499 fee either off bill or split that cost with dealer. tell dealer its a deal breaker. read my prior post on how to buy by phone or online
If dealer wont remove fee than you still made a good deal of $793 below dealers invoice price.
Post dealership name, and city your buying so others can see your deal..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks!
Paul miller-- N.J.
VIP HONDA-- N.J.
Autosport Honda--- Rt 22 N.J.
DCH Academy-- Old bridge N.J
DCH Paramus N.J.
Garden State Clifton N.J.
Hillside honda - N.Y.
If any one of these dealers meet your price make sure you dont give back money with high Doc' fee's... At worst if you cant get them removed split cost with Dealer . Tell every dealership you call that paying doc fee's are a deal breaker....... Let us know how you do ..... Good luck......Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
27000 OTD. I think before taxes it was something like 24800.
All pricing was done over email.
First off Car buying is a Negotiation and everything in the deal is Negotiable Including doc fee's. That being said... If your calling dealers to give you a quote... YOUR BUYING THE WRONG WAY. You tell each dealer what you are willing to pay. If they meet your price You buy that moment . Thats the leverage to getting the best price and deal. Always buy the last few days of any month or at Quarters End like in Dec. Dont believe every post you read some people just thru out numbers or put up wrong info. Here are the Dealers Invoice numbers on your vehicle plus dest charge=
2013 LX AWD= 22,490 + 830= 23,320
This is dealers Invoice price. add your N.J. sales tax and dmv fee's about $ 300 and thats what buying at dealers invoice looks like. If you call on the phone and speak to the internet managers the last 2 days of the month you should be able to knock off another 500 to 1000 below dealers invoice depending on how good you can negotiate.. good luck, let us know how you did................ Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
What I did was I financed the full amount and keep calling honda financing and on 3rd day they had my account # which they gave me on the phone and I paid full. they only charge the interest on those 3 days only.
You will not get the $500 off if you do not finance through Honda though. The rate was good for us (2.9%). Not sure what you can get in the credit union but you may want to reconsider. Good luck and be strong. This is your money not theirs. Jay
Shopping for a cr-v and really want to know the price. It is so hard to get any price lower these days.
Thanks!
The key to getting a good price is for you, the buyer, to control the negotiations. You do that by understanding the dealer's cost which should be the base price you use to begin negotiations. It is an easy process.
The best method, IMHO, to develop a base price is to find the invoice price of the car (Edmunds), subtract the dealer holdback (available from Edmunds) and any incentive provided by the manufacturer to the dealer (available online) and further reduce that amount by any cash back to the buyer (you). That gives you not only a nice starting price for negotiations but, more importantly, the knowledge to handle the sales person's inevitable BS.
Do not go to the dealership but initiate the process on line. The dealer's goal is to get you to visit the dealership and everything they do is done with that in mind. They believe once they have you on site they can work their "magic" to get you to buy on their terms. That is, obviously, not your goal. It is always good to keep them guessing.
The amount you initially offer should start at your computed base amount, or a bit higher, and increase by small increments ($100 to $300) until you reach a deal or a price which is simply too high. Do not be worried about offering too low a price, there is nothing to lose. They are not worried about quoting a high price.
If a price cannot be negotiated, contact another dealer and begin the process again. Of course there is nothing wrong with contacting multiple dealers on line at the same time. It is, after all, just business.
You need to know your approximate credit score and available interest financing rates before you go to the dealer. Credit Karma is a good free source of the approximate credit score. Takes only a few minutes. With your credit score you can find the prevailing finance rates on line, at a bank or the credit union.
One thing about dealer financing. Dealers often make money when they broker the financing. If a dealer can match the interest rate you find elsewhere, let them do it. If they make a bit of money in this area, at no significant cost to you, they might be willing to sell the vehicle at a lower price.
Finally, the big thing. After you have made a great deal on the price of the vehcile do not throw it away in the dealer's F&I office. The F&I manager, who is actually the dealer's best sales person, will offer you numerous "products" and may provide a littany of stories and props designed to get you to buy. They are all vastly overpriced and of little real value.
Many of their "products" particularly extended service contract or GAP insurance can be purchased elsewhere for a fraction of the cost if needed. Smart buyers just say NO to every product offered. But be prepared, F&I people are trained to ask buyers to buy their products at least three times as they foolishly believe the only reason a buyer would say no is because the buyer does not understand the "value" of the product.
Good luck.
Do you know the name of the dealer that you purchase the CRV with? So your final price before tax and registration for a AWD EX-L is $26,649? I keep emailing dealers but mostly got 28K+.....Any tips?
Thanks!!!
I finally bought a 2013 EXL AWD!
O'Hare Honda offered to match the price I gave them from you on this forum however the actual quote turned out to be $26598 including the $830 destination charge + Doc fee of $161.39 and $25 electronic filing fee. The deal was conditional on financing through Honda Financing to take advantage of the $500 flex cash credit.
I wasn't too happy that they initially indicated they would match the price quoted from here and then increased it slightly. When I questioned them the games started a bit however in the end they indicated that was their best price and wouldn't remove the doc fee. I actually got the line, "If we remove it from yours we would have to go back to every other car we've sold and refund it to them." Seriously, do people actually believe that?
Anyway, I called several other dealers in the area to see if they could beat the offer and all were quoting higher and telling me to take the offer from O'Hare Honda if I was getting the EXL AWD for that price. Then I contacted a female Sales Manager (N*ra) at Castle Honda. She was very interested to gain my business and offered to match O'hare Honda's price. She was very open and straight forward and did not try to play any games. I told her the quote and she preceded to tell my what their invoice cost was on the car $26749 and also that the quoted price was approx. $1000 below invoice. She also let me know that the manufacturer hold back on the car was $700 thus they were actually losing money. I'm sure that is not the case however I don't think they made a lot in the deal. In addition to her honesty, openness and being straight forward, she also said the deal did not require financing with Honda Finance which was great for me as I had the cash and was planning to pay off any required financing with the deal in the first month. In the end these 2 factors made the choice easy and I bought from Castle Honda.
Here is a break down of the price - I added mud guards and wheel locks afterwards.
price incl. destination charge - $26598.00
mud guards - $198.00 installed
wheel locks - $89.00 installed
doc fee - $161.39
electronic filing fee - $25.00
sub total - $27071.39
tax - 8.25% = $2233.39
total = $29304.78
plate? - $15
registration - $194
Total OTD incl tax and registration = $29513.39
Details look like this:
Car price: $27,612 including delivery or destination charge.
Documentation fee: $299
Taxes: $2,450.60 NYS 8.875%
Registration fee: $82
Online reg. fee: $56
I did not ask, but they gave me wheel locks for free (installed) and 2 oil changes which I accepted with no hesitation. Forgot to mention that I had my old plates from my flooded car and it was transfer of registration.
I did not care how they name and would spread their fees, but they met my target price of $30k and I am satisfied. Good luck.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I used True Car pricing for my initial 3 internet quotes. In addition, I sent out my car requirements to about 10 other dealers in PA, NJ and DE via the internet. Many of the dealers wanted me to come in and test drive the car. I refused and told them that I would only come in to sign the paperwork and pick up the car. Once I got a really good car price of $27,295.00. (Out the door Price was $29,314.00) I sent out a 2nd round of requests to see if anyone could beat that price. I also focussed my attention on Out the door Price, as many of the dealers charged fees and other costs to build up the price. At this point many dealers told me that they could not get close to that price. I was down to 5 dealers that were willing to beat the $29,314.00 price, but Sussman gave me a Out the door Price of $28,837.00 and they were the closest to my house so I decided to go with them.
I ended up paying $29,978.62 OTD, which included ALL the fees and taxes. $3,077.00 put on my Visa (to get points). The credit card limit for the car purchase was $2000.00 but I was able to also put the extended warranty on a credit card bringing the total to $3,077.00. The remainder was paid with personal check. No special Honda financing was required to get this deal.
Details look like this:
Car price: $27,000 including destination charge.
All Documentation and fees: $217.00
Extended Warranty $1077.00 (8 Years or 75000 Miles) (That wasn't part of the original deal but it seemed reasonable, considering that my deal was the best price of about 12 dealers that I spoke with via email) I realize that they made some profit back on the extended warranty.
Taxes: $1684.62 PA 6%
Total $29,978.62
Last night, the salesperson called me to tell me that the car also came with a Power pack which I thought was how they were going to hustle me. It included wheel locks (installed), Honda plastic/rubber trunk liner an car etching. To my surprise he said that it was included with the car.
While at the dealership, I was concerned that they weren't going to honor the deal, since many other dealers said that the deal quoted wasn't possible. To my surprise, there wasn't any shenanigans and the only up sell was the extended warranty, which again didn't seem that outrageous to my wife or I.
I was very satisfied with my purchase. I hope this helps someone else to get a great deal.
Good luck.
I ended up buying my 2013 Honda CRV EX 2WD in town (Greenville, SC) instead of driving up to Charlotte.
Car price = $23,529
Tax = $300 (SC flat tax)
Tag Transfer = $37
Doc Fee = $349
Total out the door = $24,215
I got them to throw in the all weather mats and this is with the $500 Honda financing.
Dealer is Dick Brooks Honda in Greer, SC.
Dick Brooks Honda - Greer, SC
Car Price = $23,529
Tax = 300
Tag = 37
Doc fee = 349
Out the door = $24,215
The other dealer was Priority Honda in Huntersville, NC
Car Price = $22,917
Tax = $300 (SC flat tax)
Title = $168
Doc Fee = $499
Pro Pack (all season weather mats, cargo mat, splash guards) = $699
I told them I didn't want the Pro Pack and they didn't/wouldn't want to take the splash guards off, so we were around $100 for the splash guards, but NO pro pack.
Out the door it was $23,984
I hope this helps everyone.