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Just what is a good deal?

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Comments

  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 22,562
    "...is there any way to save face short of just walking back in and paying their asking price..."

    Boy I know that feeling. You want the car so bad you can smell the leather. That's what the dealer is counting on, your emotional attachment clouding your judgment. It has caught me more than once.

    First you have to take the emotion out of the deal. Once you do you'll realize that there are more "perfect" cars out there. If you can't get a price that suits you move on.

    Second, you ask about loss of face. I know that feeling too. Will the dealers say "got ya" when you come crawling back?

    When I asked that same question on these forum it was suggested to me that I was overthinking the situation. The dealer wants your money you want the car. If your prices meet you buy, if not you walk. If later on you want to make another offer do so. The dealer still wants your money.

    Try going to the Buying Tips board and search posts from Bobst and Graphicguy.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Do you WANT those other features?

    And, if carmax is transferring a car in for you, what is the problem? Why are you still looking? Did you make a deal with Carmax or not?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I specifically want to stay around 29999-30000

    So, we got about one dollar to play around with? That doesn't leave much wiggle room. ;)

    I've never been a fan of the "bobst method"... or the take it or leave it offer. It may work for some, but to you it was a deathblow. The fact that the price was already lowered should indicate that it's not getting the sale attention the dealership wants. This is a car they would have negotiated on. My theory on car buying is try to find a car you like and try to work a deal out on it. If the price or negotiation is not progressing to your satisfaction... then you walk.

    Carmax usually prices their vehicles several thousand more than what you would find preowned at a dealership. With a $30,000 vehicle it would probably be closer to 4k. So, without looking at the numbers I would think the dealership has room to lower their price a bit. If you would like to call them back and make a counter offer... you have nothing to lose. You already have a beemer coming in from Carmax to buy. :)
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I think a telephone call to the dealer from mid month on stating that you're still interested in the car if it could be bought at your price would open the door for them to think about it and call you back if things are slow. Don't overpay! Like Grandaddy said "Better no deal than a bad deal." Don't forget the pool of individually owned cars. Better price potential. Find one you like and take it to the same dealer who has the car you want and pay the service dept to have it checked out for a $100 or so for some real negotiating fun!!!! Good Luck.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    lawhergirl....oldfarmer and jipster offer some good advice here.

    I'm thinking the dealer has, at most, somewhere around $28K into the 330i (I've got an '06 330i, myself). The 330i comes really loaded up, but still has a long option list (sport option? I-Drive?, automatic?). What's the mileage?

    325i is a very nice car, too. But, it's down on power and features compared to the 330i.

    It really depends on what you want.

    These are popular cars, but $30K should be doable. Unless the car was involved in a drvie by shooting, the dealer shouldn't have much invested for reconditioning.

    Saving face means nothing here. They want to sell a car. You want to buy one.

    In this instance, I'd go with jipster's advice. Offer $29K on the 330i and see if they bite. If not, go to $29,500. If they don't come back with a lowered "asking price", then they're probably hard and fast on their price.

    Finally, make a "take it, or leave it" offer of $30K. IF they take it, you've got yourself a nice ride. If not, move on.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • metro123metro123 Member Posts: 100
    Agreed. The "take it or leave it offer" only works on new cars where you know the true cost of the car to the dealer. (MSRP, invoice, holdback, rebates ect.) On a used car, you have no idea what the dealer owns it for and therefore you have to be prepared to negotiate or be rejected. I do find it hard to believe that the posted sale price was the lowest they will go. Most dealers will always leave some wiggle room somewhere.

    I would call the dealer back near the end of the month and reiterate your interest in the car. Tell them you are not far apart and give them an opportunity to earn your business. Don't worry about saving face. It's a car deal, it's nothing personal.
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Member Posts: 1,757
    On a used car, you have no idea what the dealer owns it for and therefore you have to be prepared to negotiate or be rejected.

    What the dealer paid for the car in irrelevant. What the car is worth to me is the only thing that counts. If the price is too much, I head to another dealer or look for another model.
  • geffengeffen Member Posts: 278
    I've been looking at a used car and the price at this time is about a thousand more than what i want to pay however the dealer states the price is their internet price, would it be wise to go back at the end of the month to make an offer of a thousand less at the same dealership even though they are running internet pricing? I may have asked before but are internet pricing non negotiable at some dealerships on used cars?
  • metro123metro123 Member Posts: 100
    Wholesale values are very relevant to me. I use all the resources available to try and determine an approximate wholesale value and negotiate up from there. Just like the dealer prices their car at full retail and walks me down little by little.

    If the price is too much, I head to another dealer or look for another model.

    How do you know if the price is too much? Does it come to you in a dream?
  • micosilvermicosilver Member Posts: 212
    I've been looking at a used car and the price at this time is about a thousand more than what i want to pay however the dealer states the price is their internet price, would it be wise to go back at the end of the month to make an offer of a thousand less at the same dealership even though they are running internet pricing? I may have asked before but are internet pricing non negotiable at some dealerships on used cars?

    Short version - there is no Internet price for a used car. 805 os used car buyers find the car they want on the Internet, and the car is price based on what similar cars sell online already.
    You cannot say to the dealer: "a dealership down the street will sell me the same car for $... less" - because there is no same car when it comes to used cars.

    If you like the car, you can afford it - don't wait until the end of the month, because if they sell it today - you will have to start over.
    If the price is reasonable, the car is right for you, it comes with warranty and you can afford it - just go for it. Get in, offer them a $1,000 off their best offer, and take $500 off.
    In a year - you won't remember how much you paid, but if the car is right - you will feel it every day.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    would it be wise to go back at the end of the month to make an offer

    The car you looked at today and want to think about till tomorrow is the same car some one else looked at yesterday and will buy today. :D
  • geffengeffen Member Posts: 278
    So true, this has happened to me a week ago I was looking at a car i liked, I wanted time to think it over 2 days later the dealer told me the car has been sold.
  • geffengeffen Member Posts: 278
    Some dealerships here use a disclaimer that the internet price is their price and want their customers to bring in the ad to get the internet price and this was on used cars.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    If it helps, an 06 325i is worth, roughly, about $3,000 less than a 330i, give or take. Now, that assumes both have similar equipment (Amazing what software and an intake manifold do, eh?)

    And that's roughly what the cost differential was when new, about $3,000 (OK, 330i was more than that but it included equipment that was optional on the 325i).

    On the car you're buying... miles? Location? 6-speed or Autotragic? Color? Equipment?

    Assuming it's a 15k or so mile typically equipped automatic, $32k is a good price for that car, quite good.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    How do you know if the price is too much?

    metro....new & used are a bit different.

    On the used side, I look in the used car ads to see what people are asking for similar vechiles. I use KBB and NADA as a guideline, too. I call my bank to see what the loan value is, too. I look at Edmunds and ask for some Galves info. Nothing's hard and fast whe looking at a used car.

    Take all of that, shake it up, and I come out with a target price. I'm sure some might give more weight to one parameter over another, but it's not an exact science.

    New cars are simpler. Again, I look at the newspaper ads. Look at invoice and incentives. Gander at dealer's stock situation. Is it a popular model? Is it a popular color? Does the vehicle have popular options?

    All the new car dealerships are selling the same product. They're all paying the same price for their wares. What one won't do, another one will, depending on their motivation.

    For example, I saw a car ad in the newspaper the other day (I think it was for Accords). Ad stated they'd sell any one in stock for $199 under invoice. Any incentives go to the buyer. That means they're eating into hold back. Pretty good deal. I might push...offer $500 under invoice, and see if they bite. Shop my offer at a couple of dealerships. If none bite, $200 under is a pretty good deal. I can always go back to the dealer who ran the ad.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    brentwood.....I know it depends on options/mileage, but I'm guessing the dealer has somewhere around $28K in the '06 330i. Am I close? $2K over should get the deal done, IMHO. $32 is a good price. $30K is doable?
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • lawhergirllawhergirl Member Posts: 3
    So I waited a day or so and it was basically knawing at me that this was the car i wanted...some may not care about these things but it was black on black leather, sports package with 18"alloy wheels (which just look better to me), low mileage, power window shades ,etc etc
    i had really all but decided that even if i was getting ripped off I wanted to get this car. I went in, talked to the manager and made a last ditch effort to get the price lowered. ...they only took off 900 which made the car 31000...but at the end of the day, like a poster said earlier, i wanted the car and simply did not want to risk that it would be sold...and i can live with paying a little more than i should have...i want to thank every one for their input
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Enjoy your new car
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    gg..

    I'd assume that they have more than $28k in the car, but that's merely a guess, I don't know enough about the car to make any kind of call on it.

    The car I mentioned above.. typical Premium Pack 15k miler is worth a hair under $30k or so.. if it's a Sport with Nav and iDistract and all that.. could be worth more than she paid across the block.

    Again, depends on the car.. you know that by now silly. Now go to your room.

    lg..

    Sounds like you got a great deal. If you bought the car and plan on keeping it past 50-75k miles (It's capable of 300+K), do the following:

    Grab the factory recommended maintinence schedule.

    Put it in the fireplace.

    Change oil 5-6k with good Synthetic and OEM filters.
    Change diff fluid every 60k.
    Change Trans fluid every 60k
    Change Brake fluid every year (My almost 21yr old M5 has beautifully functioning ABS pump at 190k miles thanks to this)
    Change coolant every 2 years with BMW Coolant only
    Change out thermostat by 60k
    Change radiator and water pump and expansion tank every 75-80k.

    Do this, and you will be sick of the car before it ever goes boom.

    Follow BMW's maintinence protocols and expect to replace the automatic trans around 100-120k.
  • geffengeffen Member Posts: 278
    Congrats on going back and getting the car you really wanted, it doesn't take long for cars to be sold right after you leave the dealership.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    A good deal is when the dealer grudgingly gives you the keys and, as you drive away, you glance back to see your salesman with his head in his hands in the managers office. :)
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    Congratulations! You got the car you wanted, and saved $900 in the process... That sounds like a great car buying experience!!

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  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Change diff fluid every 60k.
    Change Trans fluid every 60k


    Synthetic is recommended for both the trans and the diff right?

    Secondly isn't the only way to change out the trans fluid is with a fluid exchange machine?
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    Depends on what trans it has... I haven't read up on the E90s, but it's probably Texaco ETL Synthetic if it's an auto and probably ATF or MTL if it's a stick.

    Diff should use GL5 75W90 Synth as well.

    Except for the automatics we use Red Line as a general rule... the Texaco ETL comes in bulk containers from the dealer, costs $10-15 a Liter or thereabouts.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    lawherfirl.....congrats. You got a good deal on a great car. Sounds like your car had an MSRP of around $40K-$41K, since it's really loaded up. I paid $37K and change for mine brand new 1.5 years ago. Mine does not have the window shades, though. But it does have nav.

    I can only echo what IM brentwood said about maintenance. There's lots of debate whether you should follow the "maintenance minder" for oil changes on the BMWs. I think most of us feel they are too long. Follow im's advice and you're going to have a good car for a very long time.

    Mine's black with chocolate interirior. So, I like your color, too.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    I'm on a BMW tech list... already seen pics of sludged M54s from this 15k interval nonsense...
  • greanpea68greanpea68 Member Posts: 1,996
    If you like the car, you can afford it - don't wait until the end of the month, because if they sell it today - you will have to start over.
    If the price is reasonable, the car is right for you, it comes with warranty and you can afford it - just go for it. Get in, offer them a $1,000 off their best offer, and take $500 off.
    In a year - you won't remember how much you paid, but if the car is right - you will feel it every day.


    Nice close...
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    im.....I change my oil every 5K. Just turned 18K miles. BMW sponsored "free maintenance" only covered one of my oil changes.

    No dipstick. Can't even check the oil level. God help anyone who buys one off a 5 year lease that was tuned in, and the owner only followed the BMW "maintenance schedule".
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    Yeah there's been a lot of complaining about the lack of a dipstick in E90s.

    Had a 740i Sport come up from freehold not terribly long ago.. was a nice car, '00 Sport with about 100k. Engine sludged up badly... guy was the original owner and told that 15k oil change intervals were fine! Car came in for a blown trans.. while we were at it he asked why it ran so poorly!
  • cplyonscplyons Member Posts: 20
    We agreed we needed something bigger and AWD now that we've moved to the frozen North and have a King Kong toddler whose feet are usually kicking my headrest in the Acura... Also I knew that if I was going to get decent money on my trade I had to do it now, while there was still 5000+ miles left on the original mfg warranty...

    So I drove lots of CUV's... Buick Enclave, Mazda CX-9, the 08 Highlander, Murano, Pacifica... and the one we liked the best, the Hyundai Veracruz.

    Went to a nearby dealer and was treated, literally, like dirt. Long story short, this led me to do a lot of searching in a 150 mile radius to find the exact car I wanted (Limited, all options) and get quotes. Called the Internet Manager at a larger dealer around 100 miles away, who offered a price out of the box $1,000 below invoice. This was way, way better than I had gotten from my other internet contacts. We then discussed my trade and he gave me a range, the upper end of which I could live with (and was right at KBB)...

    So I pre-qualified with a lender and set up an appointment with the sales guy. My wife and I had only a brief window on a Saturday afternoon to either do this deal or leave, since our 2-year old was tearing it up with his not-entirely-up-for-it grandparents...

    We roll in to the dealership and find the vehicle prepped and ready for a test drive. Wifey and I head out (on our own) and run through a long checklist of pre-acceptance stuff. We find a few things to get cleaned up, but love the car.

    We head back and meet up with our sales guy, who offers a price for my trade above the range we had discussed on the phone. He clearly thought I was going to pound him over the value, but what he didn't know was that after a week of trying to sell it myself (Craigs List, Cars.com etc at a lower price that his offer) I had maybe one lead. And I would have lost money due to the sales tax on the full new car value. So I happily took his offer, asked for (and got) a couple of freebies and the deal was done.

    They finished prep on the car, we signed (after spending four whole minutes with the F&I guy) and we drove off. All told, first to last we spent two hours at the dealership. We LOVE the car, all expectations exceeded.

    My wife absolutely HATES buying cars and had a bad cold on Saturday - yet she said this is the best car buying experience she has ever had.

    Now, I have NO DOUBT that I could have put in some time and ground the guy down a little bit more. Maybe, possibly as much as $1,000, between the trade and the price of the new car - but I doubt it. And it just wasn't worth our time.

    We love the car. Buying the car was easy and low pressure. It was a great process. The sales guy seemed very happy with the deal. We were very happy with the deal.

    After reading this and other forums, I don't get how money is the only criterion of value received. Maybe it's me... I just don't need the ego stroke of conquering the dealership and grinding them to death. In a way this carries through to the car we bought... I mean, with the Hyundai I'm getting all the function and quality but none of the prestige. I guess I don't need the validation... but those of you who do, keep posting. It's entertaining! :)
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    cplyons....the thing that I kept reading in your post was "WE LOVE THE CAR".

    That's the bottom line. You got good trade value. You bought something you love You liked the buying experience.

    There is no down side here.

    Congrats on the new ride.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    did you really mean $1k below INVOICE?? Or did you mean below STICKER?

    I just can't believe they are already paying people to take such a new model off their hands.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Well it is Hyundai they are about as bad as the domestics for offering the perception of a good deal.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Oh, I hear ya. But even Buick will sell the Enclave for above invoice for as long as their is demand.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • cplyonscplyons Member Posts: 20
    Oh yes, I most certainly did say $1,000 below PUBLISHED DEALER INVOICE for the loaded Hyundai Veracruz. I understand that doesn't represent what the dealer had in the vehicle, but as I reported in my post it was miles better than the other dealer offers I received.

    Sticker (manufacturer's maroney only, no dealer add-on stuff) was $38,325. I paid $34,500, and then got $500 more back from Hyundai. I did a lot of research, and as I say, I think I got a very nice deal. And, I love the car.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    that was fast. i'm surprised the vehicle is such a bust for them already, especially with all this talk about it being so lexus-like. (and this isn't anything negative against the vehicle, i'm sure its very nice)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • nortsr1nortsr1 Member Posts: 1,060
    Would you mind telling us the name of the dealership and where it is located.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    q...I've bought (or helped someone buy) two Hyundais. First, was my son's Elantra over 4 years ago. Snagged that one well below invoice. I kept the incentives.

    A few months ago, I helped a friend byuy a new Sonata. Got that one well below invoice, too. She kept the incentives.

    So, clearly there's some sort of Hyundai factory support $$$$ going on with the dealerships that aren't published in the usual places.
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Member Posts: 9,332
    I'm not so sure about a $38 and change sticker, but it matters not.

    Hyundai, like Kia have had unit bonus since the early 90's ...

    Example, if they sell 10 Sonata's in a month they'll receive $400 a unit, if they sell 15 Sonata's in that time they receive $600 a unit, etc, etc, ... that's why you see so many of their sales at invoice and below ....

    I'm sure with a heavy "cold brute" SUV like the Veracruz hitting the floorplan and being 99 degree's in most places, plus competing with players with a proven 10/15 year track record, they'll cut em' from the herd faster than the slushy lines at Dairy Queen.... ;)



    Terry.
  • cplyonscplyons Member Posts: 20
    Yes, I suspected there was some kind of dumping involved since they offered such a deal so quickly on a relatively new model... but after all it is a 2007 taking up space where they want the new ones to go. Wonder why no other dealers wanted to play at the same level with the same stock though?

    As you say, no one really cares but if you wanted you could check the possibly-inflated $38K MSRP on Edmunds at will. THis was Limited AWD, with Ultimate/Saddle, Roof rack, mats, cargo mat.

    The dealership is Vision Hyundai of Henrietta, suburb of Rochester. My sales guy is easy to find as he is identified as the Internet Manager on their site. He is 30 years into his gig and having a ball, by all appearances... He had maybe fifty/sixty "Sales guy of the month" plaques stacked in boxes on his desk...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    but you are talking about old or just revamped models with no public love. the veracruz seems to be a bit of a media darling and a new face on the block, to boot. i dunno. guess i was just thiking hyundai might actually have a winner for once. oh well. not that it matters much to me.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • darrvao777darrvao777 Member Posts: 8
    So I wanted to come here looking for some financial advice to get a good deal on car buying

    My background: Just recently graduated from college, salary is a tad under 50K annually. Looking for a car to last me 2 years (or longer). In roughly 2 years, will see a significant jump in salary (2-3x current income)

    1. Would it be in my best interest to buy a new, cheap car to string me along for 2-5 years and then purchase a new one?

    2. Would it be in my best interest to lease an affordable car for 24 months and then purchase a new car once I have more disposable income?

    3. Would a certified pre-owned vehicle be the smarter way to proceed?

    Thanks!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    You're almost certain to get a majority of votes for option #1. If you can do it, it is almost always best to buy what you can easily afford NOW without stretching your budget. Oh wait, you said NEW, cheap car? Oh no. Not new.

    Pay as much cash down as you can for a cheap, used vehicle. Finance what you must. In the interim, save a bit of money every month for a nice downpayment on that new vehicle. Even when your income does go up, you will avoid the trap of being upside-down in the new vehicle you purchase.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    edited May 2011
    Pay as much cash down as you can for a cheap, used vehicle. Finance what you must.

    Kirstie nailed it, but try and make it a fairly new (2 or 3 years old) model.
    The previous owner will have taken the depreciation hit, it should be reliable, and in case it's not it still has some warranty left.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Yes - but not a Honda or Toyota. They initially depreciate so slowly (in general) that a good deal on a late-model year vehicle is very hard to find.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes - but not a Honda or Toyota.

    She's right, but don't hesitate if you do find a good deal on one.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    of course, kirstie is right. But an inexpensive but reliable used car.

    At this point, you should be more concerned saving up what you can to buy your first home.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    I will go a different way.

    If you are light on cash now, but are confident in you job, I would look for a great deal on a ST lease. Subaru has some now in the paper, and I am sure there are plenty of others.

    you should be able to get an imprezza for low $200 range, with very little due at signing. This way, your payments are low, and you can start saving as much money as possible (build a nest egg, and put some toward your next car).

    Knowing that you will want something nicer in 2-3 years, a 3 year lease (that Sube one is 39 months) times out well.

    plus, it should help keep you from doing something radical in the next year or two!

    also, you should have fixed (as in next to no) variable costs on this. Gas, insurance, payment, pretty much it.

    if you buy well used (as in cheap), it will be a whole different experience.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    fresh out of school and a new job is a bad time to lease. You never know what is going to happen. I had a lease too early myself .... then me the right woman, got married, and bought a house. Wound up with a 100-mile per day commute. Yup.... bad time to be in a lease.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • sterlingdogsterlingdog Member Posts: 6,984
    I would suggest a one or two year old car. You would still have some warranty but save a ton of bucks. Don't get over your head this early in the game. You may have college loans and/or wish to purchase your first home. Also, don't buy the cheapest brand automobile available. Get a nice car at a good price. You'll have something that you can enjoy but still afford. Good luck to you.

    Richard
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