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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nismofreaknismofreak Member Posts: 120
    I agree with ashutoshsm: You should really change the oil yourself (if you can) or find a reputable local mechanic. For little more than what my dealership charges to change the oil in my 6s, I am doing it myself and with 0w20 Mobile Synthetic and Mobile1 filter. Can't beat that with a stick! For those who may not know Autozone (atleast in Jersey) has a sale on 5 quarts Mobile1 synth oil plus filter for 29.99. So for $36 bucks I have 6 quarts and one of the best filters on the market. Sale ends July 3rd.

    With regards to the K&N filters, if you do a UOA (used oil analysis), they will tell you if a lot of outside contaminants are getting into the engine (everything shows up in the oil, it is like yer blood). On my brother's race car, we do a full tear down of the engines every year and there is no wear (no big chunks of rocks in the engine). On my race car, I just do UOA to make sure everything is kosher. In all my cars I have K&N filters (whether for a CAI or just a panel filter). If anything else, it is cheaper to use that as opposed to changing the regular paper filter every 30K. (There is no warranty expressed or implied by my post, just passing on my experience).

    04 Blazing Copper 6s MTX
  • hot6hot6 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the oil tips. How much would a dealer charge for a UOA?
    I have thought about bringing in my own oil, but thought they would do a "switcho-chango" on me. If I brought my own oil in there, would they actually use it, or fake it and take it home for their own ride?? LOL! I'll give it a shot though. How about those engine oil treatments like Slick50? Are those worth it?

    As for the dealer I would go to, probably Gunther Mazda off 441, where I bought it.

    04 BlackIce 6s
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    The info. on Autozone sounds like a good deal.Is it better to use jack stands or ramps? Also are there any special wrenches or procedures that are needed on the 6s to change the oil. Thanks.
  • chronobchronob Member Posts: 22
    "How about those engine oil treatments like Slick50? Are those worth it?" In a word, no. Change your oil regularly with a high quality oil, and treatments are unnecessary. In fact, from what I've read they can actually interfere with the proper function of the additives already in your motor oil and do more harm than good.

     "The info. on Autozone sounds like a good deal.Is it better to use jack stands or ramps? Also are there any special wrenches or procedures that are needed on the 6s to change the oil."
    Go with ramps, specifically Blitz Rhino Ramps. I also recommend their drain pans. No special tools needed; just make sure you use a 15mm wrench for the drain bolt.

    Be forewarned that your dealer or whatever shop that changed your oil last probably tightened the bolt and the filter beyond belief. I had to get a filter cover (a metal cover that slips over the filter and allows you to insert a socket wrench) to get the filter off of mine, and I had to take it back to the dealer to have them loosen the drain bolt.

    Mobil 0W-20 and a K/N filter are a great combo, but if you want to save some money the stock Motorcraft 5W-20 and FL 820S filter are both excellent, too.
  • nismofreaknismofreak Member Posts: 120
    I don't know of a dealer that does a UOA. I use Blackstone Labs. They are reputable and tons of racers and non-racers use them. Cost about $20 a pop.

    As for the tools, I can't agree with chronob more! I just did my first oil change yesterday and it was a female dog to get that filter off! I was glad to see the they didn't torque the living crap out of the bolt however. The washer is rubber (the first I have seen on cars that I have worked on) so it is pretty fragile.

    I have access to a lift for free so that is how I do all my work on my cars. Ramps are by far the easiest to use (don't have to worry about jack points etc).

    Again, you should really view this as an experience where you are learning and appreciating your vehicle. Y'all should see how awesome the rear suspension is! And why this poor engine only makes 220hp with all the cats (ODB II at work) and the bends in the exhaust (yuck!).
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    I was looking at the Mazda 6 cars on a dealers lot last night, I noticed that several had severe rust on the rotors. These are new cars. Why are they rusty? Is this going to cause problems to the people who purchase those?
  • dodgedudedodgedude Member Posts: 17
    I've had my 6i for just over a week now and I've also noticed the fog problem that tjkwest refers to. If the sun's out, no problem. But if I have the a/c on when it's cloudy or at night, the windshield starts fogging up (and I don't have it on defrost).

    tjkwest, did the dealer fix it? What did they do to fix it?
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    Basically, raw steel rusts when it gets wet. My rotors rust overnight if it rains. It's only surface rust and will not cause any problems. I think someone brought this up a while ago in this forum. If you put it in perspective, rotors on cars have been rusting like this forever. But, put a nice set of 5 spoke wheels on the car and everyone now notices the rust and thinks its a problem. Classic "out of sight, out of mind"!
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    OK, Thanks for the info. I feel more comfortable now. I thought it might come off if the car was driven, that was what I hoped people would say.
  • cop414cop414 Member Posts: 68
    Has anyone out there ever heard of "Apex" brand brake pads? The Rotex pads that I used to replace the OEM fronts are now squeaking as bad as the originals.
    I saw a set of Kevlar-ceramic fronts for the 6 on ebay, made by Apex. I think the initial bid was around 90.00.
    Any info would be appreciated.
  • rickyprickyp Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 6s with AT seems to alternate between gears when I am smoothly and slowly accelerating. It usually occurs between 40 and 45 MPH. I notice it when I am trying to maintain speed in city traffic. It is very annoying. The dealer checked the AT and said it was operating normally. Does anyone else have this problem? I think I am going to request that the dealer look at it again and let me take them for a drive. If they still insist that it is normal I may ask to drive another 6s to compare.
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  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I made an appointment with my Mazda dealer for the first service on my 04M6sAT and asked about PCM updates due to a "cold stall" problem and some "rough downshifts". They claim that they cannot simply update the PCMs, but they must verify any problems and "get permission" from Mazda to update anything. Is that standard procedure or are they blowing smoke?

    Also, anyone know where the AMB temp and interior temp sensors are located? Here in the HOT NC summer, the A/C runs max for a long time, even though the car feels plenty cool to me. I have to either turn off AUTO mode, or run the inside temp up to ~82-84 to get it to quit running the fan so high. It does cool the car quickly! just wondering about this AUTO feature...

    Thanks in advance.
  • nismofreaknismofreak Member Posts: 120
    I was reading in one of the car magazines (I get them all) apparently the auto climate control in our cars is hyperactive. The article stated that the programming for the ACC is a wee bit aggressive and they are toning it down in the 2005s. I am going through the same thing. You will also see that people on this board (and others) have complained about the A/C running in the winter when using the ACC. A very simple trick is to turn off the A/C manually but the ACC will continue to try to maintain the temp without the A/C running. I don't know if there is a fix for the '03s and 04s.

    -nismo
  • meeshumeeshu Member Posts: 3
    04M6 5spd 4cyl sport package
    I bought this car in April, and since 6/8 it has been in the shop for a total of 22 days. Just after 3000 mi the check engine light came on and the car would momentarly faulter when I was just starting out in first gear. The Mazda service rep replaced the runner valve (said it had been recalled, is this true?) and said I was good to go. The car has been back to them twice, and they now said they need to replace the wiring harness. Do they need to tear into the car in order to do this? I dont even want this car anymore, but it hasnot yet reached Lemon status under state law. Several times the service rep said he had the prob pegged, only to call me back and tell me the problem reoccered. The service mgr said only a district manager could OK a new car. Im pretty disgusted right now. Any help would be appreiciated.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    runner valve?
  • meeshumeeshu Member Posts: 3
    I dont know what they r either. Thats whats on the RO.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    They must be talking about the valve for the intake runners that controls the variable intake or "VICS". Your dealer replaced it because that's probably the code(s) that were stored after your check engine light went off. Call your dealer and ask for a better explanation.

    I've never heard of a recall on that, but I have a 2003. Haven't had a check engine light either with almost 12,000 miles (knock on wood).
  • fordracefanfordracefan Member Posts: 6
    I had some hail damage and final got my 6 back after about 30 days. However, they forgot to put the v6 emblems back on the door. I have seen cars with the emblem above the door strip and below the door strip. Why are they different, and which way does everyone prefer? Mine used to be under the door stip, but I think I like them above the door strip better.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    The cars with later (newer) build dates have them above the strip.
  • madaxemanmadaxeman Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know how the extra fan works. I believe it's used to cool off the engine, but mine seems to be running quite often, even when the engine is shut off
  • mazda6wagonmazda6wagon Member Posts: 2
    I've been toying with my climate control in a 6 wagon, and noticed that it didn't like to let the A/C go off, even when the ambient temperature was lower than my desired temperature. So I switched it off, figuring I'd get better mileage and I didn't need it on. I was quickly reminded about the other factor in climate control, humidity. The climate control uses the A/C to condense humidity out of the air, even if it's not cooling the air. In fact, if you hit the front defrost button it will run the A/C even if it's cold out to strip out the moisture, then reheat the air (I assume, since it hasn't been cold enough to try it) before it shoots it into the cabin.

    The end result was, I decided having the dry air was worth the extra gas, so I let it do it's auto thing again.

    In reference to the sensors, the manual lists two sensors. One's on top of the dash in the front left corner, and I think it tries to tell how much sun heat it's dealing with. Another one is just down and right from the steering column, which I've seen in other cars, as well. I think it gets the actual temperature reading.
  • hot6hot6 Member Posts: 5
    Can someone confirm the offset of the OEM wheels? Is it 50mm or 60mm. I can't find any aftermaret wheels with a 60mm offset. If anyone knows of some, please advise.

    Hot 6
  • jason777jason777 Member Posts: 56
    After them changing the blower motor no less than 3 times, it is finally fixed.

    So yes the trattle is caused by the blower motor!

    Let me see 4 recalls, 2 rattles, 4 blower motors, squeaky brakes and a fan that stays on when the engine is turned off. If Mazda keeps this up their reputation is going to go to the gutter!

    Jason.
  • pubdefpubdef Member Posts: 14
    In the 03's the ambient sensor is in front of the radiator and behind the front grille insert, toward the passenger side; the interior's sensor is at the under-the-dash end of the rubber tube that terminates at its other end just to the right of the steering wheel (you can see little vent cut outs in the plastic--if you look behind them you can see a rubber hose--the sensor's at the other end of the hose). The sensor that's up on the dash near the windshield is one that, when it senses bright sunlight, cranks up the A/C fan setting. In really hot cloudy weather you can notice that the a/c will cool things down, and the fan speed will reduce accordingly. Then, if the clouds clear and the sun is bright, the fan speed will go back up even BEFORE the interior temp has a chance to rise.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Thanks for the info, that makes a lot of sense. It has been very sunny and my fan has been working overtime. I also don't drive it much at night, so that's probably why I didn't notice the extra sunlight effect.
  • dufferduffer Member Posts: 4
    Had my 6s in to replace a tail light that would get moisture inside the lens. They said this is not that uncommon and always the right one. These are not sealed. Mazda is aware of this problem. Anyone else have this problem? Also, while the lens was being replaced they did a recall msp02 reprogram PCM. They guy said something about a rcalibration. Anyone hear about this?
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    Yes yes I just bought a MZ6s today with an autotransmission. But two things are bothering me:
    Whenever I come to a stop, even a gentle one, I can hear the gas in the gas tank (at least thats what I hope it is) swushing around, and it is rather annoying.
    The second thing is the very rough downshift from 4th to 3rd gear. The car jerks and the transition is easily noticable. Has anyone else had these problems?
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    My 04M6sAT is at the shop today for its first service. The manager called me and said he "discovered" a msp02 PCM update which it needed. I asked him why I wasn't notified of this before, either through recall notice or VIN check on the Mazda site, but he did not know. He looked it up and said it is an update to the "check engine light" software. As he explained it: when you lock the car with the remote, it does a diagnostic check, including a voltage check. If you then lock it again (to sound the horn) it might measure a "low voltage" due to a voltage spike of sounding the horn and trip the "check engine" light. This update addresses that issue.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    16 - glad you finally got the car, congrats!

    I have not noticed the gas noise (I have a 6sAT sedan). I DO have a problem with very rough downshifts, it jerks quite a bit! 4->3 and 3->2 are both pretty rough, depending on how hard I am braking. I have my car at the shop today, they are supposed to be addressing this issue (among a couple of others, including cold-stall starts). My prior postings lead me to believe this can be resolved with a PCM update for the transmission. I'll let you know what the dealer says and if it's fixed soon.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    dodgeguy1 (you still there)?

    Did this solve your sulphur smell problem for good? I just noticed this smell in the past couple of weeks on my M6sAT (2500 miles). The dealer recommended that I switch from Shell to a different brand for a couple of weeks and if that doesn't solve it they would change the catalytic converter. Did you notice any difference in gas brands or were they all bad for you?
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    Just out of curiosity, have you had your car soundproofed?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    From what I understand the PCM update recall has to do with the O2 sensor relating to the emmisson system.I also never received a recall notice. I found out about it on the Mazda tech site.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I checked my VIN on the mazda-dot-com site and it did not show up. I asked the dealer about an O2 sensor issue (from your earlier post) and the dealer claimed to not know about that recall. They could be the same, but my dealer claimed they were not. Was there another site to check the VIN against for recalls?

    ALSO, the dealer called and said my service was done, they claimed:

    1) There is no update for the cold-stall issue, but Mazda is "investigating it".

    2) There is "no problem" with the hard downshifts. I'm VERY dissappointed in this; it is VERY noticable AND repeatable. Anyone else have experience with this?

    RICH, do you know of any 6s-AT PCM updates that might help these issues? - thanks...
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    That recall was program #MSP02 which had to do with the evaporative emission leak. That was straight from MazdaUSA. If you have any concerns about your car being part of it, I suggest you contact them. The only time I sometimes experience hard downshifts is when I go from 2nd-1st. It doesn't seem to happen very often.
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    Ya likaglov Im having the same problems and its the second day ive had my car. Btw, should I be concerned if I "revved" it to 6000rpm a couple times because of the break in period?
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    Mazda has released a TSB for those of you experiencing a clicking/clunking noise from the front end....They found the upper and lower coil spring insulators need to be replaced....your local dealer must confirm the noise prior to doing the TSB.

    This applies to cars built before Feb 11, 2004.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    The "gas swishing sound" Sweetsixteen descibed is completely normal. I've heard it on every Mazda and other vehicles I've driven. It is most noticeable when tanks are nearly full and the vehicle has just come to a standstill.

    You have good hearing. It's your back-up gauge letting you know that indeed their is a full tank of fuel onboard! No sound-deadening material will completely eliminate this phenomenon. Most fuel-tanks are already factory under-coated to deaden road-noise and your issue.

    Hope this helps
    MARTIN
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    Thanks boyd. Does anyone have any input into the amount of time and/or limitations (what not to do) during the break in period?
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Straight from the owner's manual:

    No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
    • Don’t race the engine.
    • Don’t maintain one constant speed for long.
    • Don’t drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
    • Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
    • Avoid full-throttle starts.

    Seems pretty standard these days. Our Escape has the same guielines in it's manual but they want you to follow them for 1000 miles in that one.
  • chronobchronob Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the info, audia8q! Do you know the TSB number? If you've had this done, would you mind providing the part numbers from the invoice?
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    Bulletin No 02-003/04
    Issued 7/15/04

    part numbers ..two of each.

    GMY0-34-081
    GMY1-34-081
  • chronobchronob Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the TSB info, audia8q. You rock!
  • 1wiseguy11wiseguy1 Member Posts: 4
    My Mazda6 makes the front end click/clunk noise when I turn the steering wheel at low speeds (maybe I just dont hear it at higher speeds. It does not make the noise on straightaways.

    Is this the TSB you were referring to? When I brought my M6 in for its last servicing, I was advised that this is "normal". I didn't think it was (especially since it didn't make that noise for the 1st year I owned the car), and I've been finding it quite annoying.
  • fandswfandsw Member Posts: 37
    I also have both issues with my 03 6S-AT, cold stall (almost daily, even during 90 degree days) and hard downshifts. I'm 1500 miles from my next service or about 60 days. Hopefully Mazda will have found a solution by then.
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  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    According to my dealer, the cold-stall is "under investigation" from Mazda. And the hard downshift is a "non-issue". I think we need to report the downshift issue to Mazda so they will start investigating it. Of course my dealer appears less than reliable on these things, so confirmation from another source would be appreciated!
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Sorry, missed this one. I have not had anything soundproofed. I do not notice the fuel swishing sound, but I may not be "in tune" to it. I do have a slight rattle when the moonroof shade is open which drives me crazy! Appears to be from the edging on the front side of the moonroof. When the shade is closed, I don't here it.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Interesting... I thought this issue was non-motion related. I notice a "spring-like" sound when I start the car, then stop in the driveway and get out. It sounds close to the radiator. I do not notice it while driving, but don't know if it's not happening or if it is masked by road noise.

    Anyone else?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I've also never heard any swishing of gas in my car either.The only thing I seem to hear is a slight clicking sound coming from the steering column when I turn the wheel to the right.Anybody have this annoying problem.
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