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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Mine was on intermittently. At the 5000 mile oil change they discovered a defective throttle body sensor which was replaced under warranty. Only symptom was poor gas mileage. MPG has since gone up to around 20 mpg around town driving.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • lexielexie Member Posts: 45
    Is your car an automatic or a manual? I am seriously thinking about it but am not sure now due to the low fuel economy. I can only drive an automatic.
  • hatch5speedmanhatch5speedman Member Posts: 2
    My '04 Mazda 6 gave me a whiny/grindy noise, but it wasn't the engine.. it was eventually diagnosed as the fuel pump - replaced under warranty but not by my home dealer.. home dealer man refused to change the pump as "it was not faulty".... they lost me.. another dealer found me... but Mazda Canada didn't help.

    Sorry to ramble here... quick question.. the car sits in the garage for over 24 hrs.. I back it up in the morning and it won't move.. like the back brakes are welded together or the emerg brake is still on (it's not).... it's not until I rev high that it moves but with a forceful jolt sound coming from the back wheels.. thoughts? opinions? comments? thanks.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    After I wash the car, I usually move it in the driveway and park it, using the emergency brake. It's "stuck" for me as well when I go to drive it a few hours later. My guess is that the E-brake sticks when it gets wet, because it's happened to me after driving in a hard rainstorm as well.

    The dealer checked the E-brake after I mentioned something to them, and they said that it was okay, and within specs.

    From now on, after washing or a rainstorm, I just park it in gear, without the E-brake, and give it time to dry. Haven't had a problem since...
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    The sticking rear brakes problem is common. My Mazda6 does it, my wife's Outback does it, and my last Mazda did it too. I try to avoid using the parking brake if it's raining a lot or when I'm washing the car.
  • soupcxansoupcxan Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 6i automatic with 24k miles and lately I have noticed a rough shift when stopping at a light or intersection from +30mph (fourth gear). I do not drive aggressively or brake very hard. It happens once the car has slowed to below 5mph and is almost stopped...then it jumps forward just a little bit before stopping completely. Feels like the transmission is downshifting early. Not a huge deal but it is still annoying - does anyone have any ideas what I can tell the dealer? I had them check the rear rotors for warping under the TSB that came out back in 2004 but that didn't fix it.

    My car also has the infamous 1-2 shift shock problem when I drive it first thing in the morning. Has anyone found a reliable solution for this? Both dealers I've taken the car to say "lots of people have that problem, but we don't have a fix."
  • hatch5speedmanhatch5speedman Member Posts: 2
    hi... before i reply -- just a quick thanks to "slickdog" and "mz6greyghost" for their e-brake advice - it's consistent with a third opinion so i will keep her in gear from now on, regardless of wet or dry weather......

    now the "infamous 1-2 shift shock"... i'm not quite sure what this is but here's what i experience on my 5 speed manual - tell me if i too have the 1-2 with mtx!!!.... first thing in the morning going up the street: the acceleration has a life of it's own while in first gear... for a nanosecond, it's like i'm pushing the accelerator further but i'm not.. i receive an uncontrolled and unwanted burst of acceleration energy... but it's not coming from my foot... if this is the 1-2 shift shock, i was told by the dealer that it's normal and it's nothing to worry about... hope this helps..
  • kaliforniakidkaliforniakid Member Posts: 5
    Someone told me I should try using a higher octane, like 89 or 91, to get better gas mileage. I checked the manual, and all it says is to use AT LEAST 87. Anyone know if higher octane is better for an 04 Mazda6s AT? P.S. My gas mileage is REALLY low now!! On half a tank, and 1/3 of the miles on the half tank being highway miles, I only got 140 miles. This is starting to get ridiculous. Like before, I'm not heavy on the gas pedal and I dont use the a/c. The tires are fine and the alignment is perfect.

    :confuse:
  • swedegirlswedegirl Member Posts: 2
    I have an 04 Mazda6 automatic. A few months ago I noticed that it was very difficult to turn the steering wheel. I took it to the dealer to get the alignment checked and they told me that my tires were a little low but other than that the alignment was fine. This car is like driving a car that doesn't have power steering - definitely not a car you can drive with one hand and hold your coffee with another - this is a two hander! However, when the dealer drove it they said it drove fine. Anybody else have the same problems?
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    I have read elsewhere that the 6's engines are tuned for 87, and that it will provide the best performance. My understanding is that if an engine is tuned for a particular grade, the lowest grade for which it is tuned is the generally the best because the higher the octane, the LESS volatile the gas, and so it will tend to burn less violently and provide less power; and one should only go to higher octanes if one is having problems with pinging/knocking (which is indicative of ignition occurring prior to the spark and so can be corrected with less volatile fuel).

    Higher octanes are generally used in engines with higher compression ratios for this reason; the higher compression ratios require a fuel which will not spontaneously ignite under the higher pressures, leading to knocking. Of course, the flip side to this is that if your engine knocks on the lowest grade of fuel for which it is rated, you may have a problem with your timing being advanced out of spec, or there may be a quality problem with the PARTICULAR fuel you are using (and you should thus try a tank or two of the same grade from another supplier before going up in grade).

    Of course, there are some who say that regular unleaded, being a commodity (it's traded on commodities exchanges like gold, or pork bellies), is often purchased by retailers, especially no-name or off-brand retailers, at lowest cost, and so there may be quality issues with it, whereas a regular supplied by a branded retailer is more likely to be of better quality and have few impurities and more consistent and/or better detergent components added. I don't know how true this is; speaking for myself only, I've pretty consistently used discount brand suppliers for 87 and have never noticed a problem with it (but then, I live in NJ, the refining capital of the east coast).
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    Was the steering on your 6 always as hard to turn as it now is, or did you recently notice a change in it? My perception is that the 6 definitely has less power assist to its steering than most other cars I've driven, and that this is intentional, to give one more road feel and control. In fact, I've heard one or two people say, complainingly, that Mazda boosted the power-steering assist in the '05 model and that it's now too easy to turn.

    Seems to me that being hard to turn wouldn't necessarily be because of an alignment issue, and that there could be another cause (e.g., low fluid, loose belt, faulty power steering pump, air in fluid, etc.). Did your dealer check the power steering system for any of these possible causes, or did he just do the alignment and not really try to get to the bottom of your problem?
  • swedegirlswedegirl Member Posts: 2
    I only recently noticed the problem. No, the dealer only stopped at the alignment. They didn't check any other things you mentioned. My previous car was a Saab and I enjoyed the tight steering. This is not enjoyable. It's work to drive.
  • ebeneben Member Posts: 26
    Anyone know if there's a relatively easy way to reset a check engine light (CEL) (without going to a dealer)?
    I'm not trying to blow up my car; I assume that after a first occurrence the dealer usually resets it, says nothing's wrong, and sends you home hoping it doesn't trip again. Then if it does, back to the dealer. I'm just trying to save myself a trip for a false alarm.
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    Sounds like your dealer isn't quite as attentive as one would hope. Perhaps you can get the service manager on the phone and desribe the problems to him and see what he suggests? Or maybe it's time to find another dealer? I'd be a bit concerned about someone who suggested an alignment for tight steering problem.

    Another question: was the alignment performed under warranty, or did you pay for it? I'd hate to suggest the dealer was less than scrupulous, but I'm having a hard time seeing how tight steering was diagnosed as an alignment issue in the first place....
  • chitownguychitownguy Member Posts: 2
    Didn't notice this until i went on a long drive yesterday. I'm a taller guy 6'3", and I noticed the drivers headrest was angled forward a bit. Its not the most comfortable for my neck. I noticed that you couldn't angle it back any. Anyone else have a fix for this?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    Just disconnect the negative wire on the battery and put it back on and see if that does it. Although that might not solve the reason why the CEL is coming on in the first place.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    I'm looking to buy new all-weather floor mats before next winter, and I'm shying away from the OEM, mostly due to the price. Can anyone out there recommend a quality set of floormats that will trap the winter muck without any problems. I'd love to get mats contoured only for the 6, but I'm willing to look into any "unviersal-fit" mats that are recommended.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated... :)
  • thegreatvudinithegreatvudini Member Posts: 103
    Anyone replaced their brake pads recently? A message I read here suggested Kevlar types, but my brother in law suggested ceeramic. Any thought? I have an 03 6s with about 30,000 miles on. I absolutely hate the black brake dust on my front wheels. And luckily, it's about time I change those pads. :P
  • archerboldarcherbold Member Posts: 1
    Rain-X is a big must, I agree! In ligher rain you don't even need to use the wipers.
  • bigo6bigo6 Member Posts: 1
    same problem here....my 2005 M6i, just about 40days old, front brake pads and rotors will be replaced tomorrow by dealer. Mazda techline says "they had some similar complaints", something isn't fitting right. Already been to the dealer twice...once for hard shifting in auto tranny (reset code) and other for rear wiper stop working (loose nut/bolt) . Was hoping my new car would be trouble free, at least till my first oil change, have only 2,300 miles. Still love my M6, will love it even more if from now on i only have regular maintenance visits :)
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    If you are a Sam's Club member, check there. I bought mine the day after I bought the wagon for $19.99. They are great all-weather mats. They are available in grey, black and brown colors. I also have them on my Xterra for the last 4 years. Still look new. By the way, I live in Minnesota. After five months of owning MZ6, the carpet floor mats look new. The all-weather mats are made of thick rubber, front ones cover the carpet floor mats fully and they are easy to clean.
  • wonderboywonderboy Member Posts: 1
    I don't know if it too late, but I just installed a XM Roady2 receiver in my Mazda 6S. I bought a bracket and hardwire FM modulator from this company called Satellite Radio Superstore on the web. They are good guys. I called them up one day after being frustrated with my own Roady2 and they showed me everything I needed. I also thought the sound quality wasn't good enough, but I just checked some forums and installed the whole thing myself. The hardwire FM modulator works great. There is definitely a huge difference in sound quality. You can check that company out at link title. They have everything. There bracket doesn't look to bad either for the Mazda 6. Anyhow...I hope this was some help.
  • rickinnj8rickinnj8 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks. I'll give them a look. Did you make out OK with the removal of the center console, dashboard, etc.?
  • ladytygrisladytygris Member Posts: 3
    So I realize that this issue has been discussed somewhat at length in past threads but I'm having continuous issues with my 6s...
    I've taken it to the dealership about 4x for this problem (it's in for the fourth time as I speak) and as of last week they updated the 'software' that was supposedly going to be the magic solution. Then today the problem reared its ugly head again.
    I was curious as to whether or not anyone else has had the specific problems I have had. When I first got the car in Oct 03 I had 'cold stall' issues which were resolved by the software upgrade back then. But about once a month or so, when I'm getting on a local highway onramp that's downhill and curves to the right, my engine starts to surge uncontrollably around 40mph. It feels as though the car is having a seizure! It refuses to accelerate past that point and I end up having to pull into the shoulder or exit immediately. Then I turn the car off and back on again and it's usually fine. I haven't noticed any engine lights on any of the times this has happened.
    The dealership has been pulling a "if we can't make the problem happen then we can't fix it" type of thing with me :mad:. It irritates me. Normally I wouldn't care if it was just a vanity issue, but my feelings are that this is a SAFETY issue. I don't like being stuck at 40 when trying to merge onto the expressway. One of these days I'm going to get rear ended by some fool behind me or someone trying to exit.
    Has anyone else experienced these problems even AFTER the 'software upgrades'? Any suggestions on what to do about it?
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    Is there any benefit in paying 25$ more to getting Kendal Gt-1 full synthetic oil instead of a synthetic blend? Thanks
  • richietrichiet Member Posts: 2
    Bought leftover 04 6S,5spd,seden,great price with rebates and Ford Business Partner discount. At 2,458 miles, car hesitates at up to about 2500 rpms in mainly 3 to 5 gear. Dealer said: 45 PSI from fuel pump, needed new pump, had oil changed at this time, Extra oil all over engine shroud and oil draining down from eng block onto exhaust system when parked in my clean garage. Fuel door hard to open, tech must have put a qt into the fuel door area because now have lub oil streak running down the side of the car. Turn signal problem,warr kit installed. At 2,624 new fuel pump installed and then my key fob did not flash lights or horn. Was told by another dealer that computer should have been re-set. 3 days later, computer reset itself. Back at 3,655 for complaint about low rpm hesitation and reacurring turn signal problem. Per turtleman post #1173 I installed $55 K&N filter and hesitation problem disappeared. Purchasing dealer sales mgr said to take it to another dealer for service. WOW
  • mimazda6mimazda6 Member Posts: 9
    Like you said, WOW! Not fun, I'm sure My situation has many similarities to yours (leftover 04 6s 4-door 5-speed, great price with rebates & S-plan) but only 1150 miles and only issue has been having to have front brake rotors turned to get rid of pulsation issue present on delivery. Hope I don't follow in your footsteps on other concerns and that your experience gets better from here!
  • angelsfanangelsfan Member Posts: 7
    I'm glad you wrote this, I have the same exact problem. You referred to it as a seizure, I called it hiccuping, but it sounds like the same problem. Mine doesn't happen at any particular moment though. My dash flickers when this is happening too and is impossible to accelerate let alone keep up. I have taken it to the dealer twice, and no fix, they said there aren't even any software upgrades.
  • ebeneben Member Posts: 26
    Not sure this is an exact fit, but have your dealer take a look at Mazda Service Bulletin No. 01-032/04, issued 8/13/2004.
  • kaliforniakidkaliforniakid Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know how to find out what type of LED bulb I need to get to replace the parking lights in the front (the ones inside the bright lamp housing)? I want to put blue LEDs in there but the manual doesnt say what type of bulbs they are, so I dont know which kind to get to replace them.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    The bulb numbers are 194. I've heard of 4LEDs and SOME 6LEDs fitting, but not all.

    I haven't done the conversion because I use my high-beams often (I live out in the sticks!) I know that LEDs are sensitive to heat, and the high-beams generate a fair amount, so make sure you buy a few sets just to be prepared...
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Blue lights would probably be illegal.
  • ladytygrisladytygris Member Posts: 3
    I actually took it back into the shop and they FINALLY decided to contact Mazda about the issue. It only took FOUR TIMES in the shop with this problem to do so.
    Apparently a small number of cars have been having similar problems. They replaced the fuel injector. So that was the problem with my car... perhaps it is the problem with yours as well. You should bring it up with them! :)
  • kaliforniakidkaliforniakid Member Posts: 5
    Thanks mz6greyghost. :) Do you know if those are wedge or screw? I rarely use my brights (darn city lights!) so I dont thing it will be a problem. I'm having troubl locating anyone who sells the right bulb though. I went through the PIAA website but all it does it tell you what stores sell them. When I called the stores, they had no clue what I was talking about when I mentioned the LED's, they all thought I meant simulated HID. Any advice or websites I can try?

    As far as the colored lights being illegal, they definitely are illegal in southern california, but it's southern california, and no one really cares! :shades:
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Do you know if those are wedge or screw?

    wedge

    Any advice or websites I can try?

    Try out these places:
    autolumination.com
    superbrightleds.com

    I've never personally ordered from these places, so I can't personally vouch for them, I was going to try autolumination for the chrome-coated turn signals that glow amber when lit. I like that look!

    Good luck!
  • 44454445 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 05, 6 for 2 months. The car has been great, except for pulling to the left - only on the hiway. I have been back to the dealer 4 times for 2 alignments, tire rotation & road tests. So far nothing has worked. I noticed this problem has been referred to as far back as 2003. Has anyone found a solution?
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    We had problem with pulling to the right on our 03 6i when it was new. The dealer corrected the problem by realigning/retightening the front subframe. Can't remember if they did both sides or not.

    We recently had a pulling to the leftproblem, but that was due to low air pressure from a small nail & slow leak.
  • angelsfanangelsfan Member Posts: 7
    That's great news, I'll have to bring that up with them.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I have an 04 and when my car was new i also had similar problem except when my steering wheel was straight the car went to the right. Alignment was fine. The dealer ended up pulling off the steering whl. and positioning it back on a little to the right. That solved my problem. :)
  • vokl99vokl99 Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 6s 5sp is in for a new clutch at 32,000 miles. I contacted Mazda HQ and they told TS. I contacted the owner of the dealership were I purchased the car and complained. The service manager contacted the regional service manager and is now running tests and taking measurements and specs to send to Mazda engineers for review. Sounds like there could be some manufactures defects. I suggest pressing them harder and let them know other people are having similar problems.
  • zoom6zoomzoom6zoom Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on this past weekend. I'm not sure why. It doesn't sound like its running bad or anything. I have a 2003 Mazda6 auto with 27K miles on it. I've gotten the oil changed every 3K miles. I'm thinking it may have something to do with my keychain door lock button because when I push it twice (once, locks the doors, the second time blows the horn) it doesn't sound off the horn like it used to. I got the fuses checked, those looked fine. I took it to get it the diagnostics on the computer done, they couldn't get a clear reading. My only option is to take it back to the dealership and get them to look at it. Has anyone had a problem semi to this?
  • 2003620036 Member Posts: 1
    I "had" a 2003 Mazda 6 - V6, fully loaded which I purchased off the dealers showroom floor in May of 2003. I have had problems the last several months with the TCS which almost sounds similar to what you are experiencing. At very inappropriate times, my 6 would kick into TCS, typically when braking, where the engine would spit and spudder. The mph would get down to nothing and I would have to pull the car off the road, force it into park, turn on/off and then the check engine light would stay on for a day or so. I took it to Mazda 3 separate times, always when the check engine light was still on. This last time, they had my car for 9 days and beat the crap out it. Everyone took it out and slammed on the brakes trying to get it to fail. Again - we don't see it fail, we can't help you. I talked to their sales staff about trading it in for another mazda. After they insulted my intelligence, I called the Nissan dealer (from their showroom) and talked to them about buying an Altima. The next day, I took that piece of crap 6 to Nissan and traded it in on a new Altima 3.5 which is truly awesome. I will never buy another Mazda and I encourage all to shelf the 6 - too many unknowns and nobody at Mazda seems to know or care about fixing the problem. Could have used the lemon law but that can get expensive and since "they never saw it fail" it's your word against theirs. Go buy a Nissan, you'll be glad you did.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I think you may have a crappy dealership. I had a similar set of problems with a Subaru: "can't replicate the problem" innumerable times. I finally came to the conclusion that no matter how great Subaru might make cars, I happen to live in an area with a lousy dealer service and so I shouldn't buy them. Sometimes you can get a car that other people have good success with but that particular one has problem after problem. If dealers would only work with the customer they would have far better levels of satisfaction and fewer people who vow never to set foot in their showrooms again. In fairness I suppose they also see people who complain a lot for no reason. So far my 2004 M6 wagon has been great (6000 miles, no problems -- they did replace the defective throttle body under warranty at the 5000 mile oil change but I didn't even know it was a problem.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • richietrichiet Member Posts: 2
    Since they replaced my fuel pump my keychain door lock button has a mind of it's own.Lights flash on 1 push, horn blows on second push. Then next day lights don't flash and horn doesn't blow.3rd day it works again. Had 2 dealer upgrades installed but this problem wasn't fixed yet. Doors always lock and unlock even if the lights don't flash or horn doesn't blow. Owned Mazda's since 1979,wife drives 1996 626 and daughter drives a Millenia currently. Never had a problem before with any of many Mazda's, some purchased new,some used and some off lease. Anyone want to buy a 2004 Pebble Ash Metallic Mazda 6,5 spd, Bose,Sunroof,black leather,sports package and I will even throw in 4 Blizzak 16 inch steel rim snow tires.
  • ebeneben Member Posts: 26
    Let's try this again (my first reply was removed for mentioning another Web site that must remain unmentioned). I experienced a similar problem: CEL came on, but car ran fine. The dealer repleaced the throttlebody under warranty.
    Schedule an appointment at your Mazda dealer for a CEL. When you fill out the paperwork, include a copy of the info below. Good luck.

    These CEL codes indicate a failure in the part of the electronic throttlebody. Either through the failure of the electronics, or the sensor, the throttlebody no longer functions as designed. This results in a Check Engine Light with one of the following codes P2135, P2101, and whose appearance indicates that the entire throttlebody assembly must be replaced.

    The electronic throttle actuator can't be serviced itself, and thus the entire assembly must be replaced. Below are the codes the scanner will pick up and display.

    Originally this also included P2110. That CEL has been upgraded to a full Technical Service Bulletin, and is solved through a PCM update. The other two CEL's above appear to still require replacement of the throttlebody assembly.

    DTC P2135 [AJ]
    TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation

    DETECTION CONDITION
    The PCM compares the TP sensor No.1 signal value and TP sensor No.2 signal value. If the signal correlation for both is out of specification, the PCM determines that the TP sensor has a malfunction.
    Diagnostic support note
    This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
    MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
    PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition.
    FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
    DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

    POSSIBLE CAUSE
    TP sensor malfunction
    PCM malfunction

    DTC P2101 [L3]
    Throttle actuator circuit range/performance

    DETECTION CONDITION
    If the PCM detects any of the following conditions, PCM determines that throttle circuit has malfunction.
    Default throttle angle that PCM memorized and the throttle angle with ET control relay OFF is not much.
    Voltage from ET control relay is too high or too low
    PCM detects big voltage difference between from ET control relay and from main relay
    PCM internal malfunction
    Diagnostic support note
    This is a continuous monitor.
    MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction conditions in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in PCM.
    PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
    FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
    DTC is stored in PCM memory.

    POSSIBLE CAUSE
    ET control relay and related circuit malfunction
    Main relay and related circuit malfunction
    Throttle position sensor No.1 and related circuit malfunction
    Throttle position sensor No.2 and related circuit malfunction
    PCM malfunction
  • deedee14deedee14 Member Posts: 2
    My Mazda is a 2003, 6cyl automatic, 27,000 miles, and like you, hatch5speedman, when I first start up in the morning and put it in drive, it surges forward like a race horse out of the gate. Luckily, my foot is firmly on the brake because I'm coming out of the garage "blind", at least or a second or two. I chalk that up to a very brief idle problem. But that's not what I understand to be shift-shock....

    Shift shock is when you start up from a light (somewhat lead-footed) and the engine is reving like crazy and, suddenly, it surges forward violently with a sound like you've been hit from behind. Since it's been doing this, I've learned to accelerate a bit more gently. Somewhere in this forum, someone gave instructions on what to tell the dealer but I dislike all the dealers in my area. I mentioned the shift-shock to a service advisor once and he said "I've never heard of the 6's doing that" and I didn't want to push it. The car runs great, except for that. I've never had any other real problems. So I don't want the dealer to mess up the good that I've got - call me cynical.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    The surge you experience when you first start up in the morning is due to a fast cold idle and is normal. The engine runs faster to shorten warm-up time and reduce emissions during warm-up. Most cars do this. It's not a problem with a MT. :shades:

    AT "shift shock" is just a harsh or hard shift between gears, not from a dead stop in 1st first gear. The behavior you describe from a dead stop isn't "shift shock" and isn't normal, assuming that this is all happening in 1st gear and not during to the 1-2 shift. It sounds more like low trans fluid or some other trans problem. Some cars will do this a little when the trans is cold. If you try a start from a dead stop using your AT in manual mode in 1st gear and get this behavior, you've got a problem.
  • abirdabird Member Posts: 7
    Picked up an new manual trans 3 liter 2004 wagon for $200 under invoice and $5000 in rebates yesterday! : )

    Registered on the mazda owner website (mazdausa.com, follow the links) and ran across this, which I thought I would share:

    Unbelievably Affordable Oil & Filter Changes With Coupon $6.79
    You can pre-purchase oil & filter
    changes for as low as $6.79 per oil
    change. That's a savings of $444.60 over
    a 7 year period that no one can touch!
    Please call for details.

    Plus applicable taxes. Valid only at SKYLAND MAZDA. Cannot be used with any other applicable offer. Mazda vehicles only. Some vehicles may be slightly higher. Hazardous waste fee is applicable. Expires: 07/13/2005.

    Who knows whether there may be a catch, but it seems worth investigating!
    :D:D:D
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    I want to rotate my tires this weekend. I went to check the size of the wheel nuts, and discovered that my 3/4" socket was too small. What size socket do I need for the wheel nuts? Do I need a thin-wall socket? (I have the 17" OEMs)

    Any help would be appreciated...
  • deedee14deedee14 Member Posts: 2
    The car is moving forward, though slowly, when the "shift shock" occurs (wouldn't that be from 1-2?) and it seems like it's trying to shift into 2nd. It's always when the car is fully warmed up, never when it's cold. If it were a trans problem, I wouldn't be able to stop it from happening by slower acceleration, would I?
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