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I'll sell you my loaded up 04 6S with 14k miles for $1k more, and in probably better condition.
As far as problems... Make sure the car has the current "reflashes" for the ecu, and that the tires and brakes are new or barely-used. If it's an '03 with manual tranny, it may have a short-lived clutch. Throttle-bodies and PCV valves are possible problem spots as well. You can't do much for the TB, but a bad PCV valve starts with excessive oil consumption, and could lead to total engine failure. In other words, check the oil at least once a week, something I do religiously with both my cars, not just the 6.
I'm not trying to scare you from the 6, just giving you a heads-up about what you can expect. That being said, if you can talk down the price, get the 6! Much more fun-to-drive than any Accord, hands-down!
rebate plus $1000 rebate for Mazda financing.
Better deals toward the end of season. Shouldn't be too hard
to find a decent deal if you do your homework.
then add ttl on top.
i would definitely price out a new one and compare apples to apples.
I have a 2003 6i. I have done a lemon law on it twice now for problems with the brakes. First it was the fromt brakes, where the rotors had been replaced 3 times before the first lemon action occurred. that time, I was told that the original rotors have now been replaced with a more heavy duty set. they actually look bigger than the rea ones. The 2nd lemon law action was for the rear brakes, where when they were hot ( I live in South FL), the interior of the car sounded as if I were next to a fog horn. The factory rep (Tony) couldnot belive that the dealer (Delray Mazda) was not able to "find" this problem, especially after I showed him. Well, they replaced the rear rotors too. But now, the fronts are acting up again. Every time I come to a gradual stop, the front brakes wobble, studder, shake, however you want to describe it. I drive mostly on the highway with the car back and forth to work and it is mostly parked on the weekends. I am sure that they are gonna say I drove thru a puddle when the brakes were hot. I know of another person who had the same 03 as me with exactly the same issue. She now has an 06 (what a dummy!) that has the same issues too. What the hell is Mazda's problem> Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks a lot!
As for compensation, consider howmuch you have spent per month in payments, all of the repair costs you have incurred and see if their is a diff between what your are asking compared to what you get. And then ask how much the BBB is getting off the top. Get receipts!
Check the lemon law in your state. Many states have the lemon law expire at 24,000 miles or so.
Are you concerned about your car going out of warranty because of your brake issue? If so, your brake pads and rotors are not covered after 12,000 miles.
I have a 2005 Mazda6i with 18,000 on it. No brake issues. Actually, no issues at all!
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Just got my used 2004 Mazda 6, mileage 17k and having the noice (clunk ,squeak or squeal. whatever) when I release the brake slowly. It seems that a lot M6 owners have the same problem. Could anyone give me suggestions how to deal with this problem? Changing new rotor or new brake seems not working? and the warranty is expired for brake, do I have to pay if I want to change a new brake?
Thanks for the help!
1) The car feels more lighter
2) There is a constant noise coming from the front when i hit 60 km/h or above. not to loud, but its there.
This is annoying the crap outta me. Please help.
It would only be a non-warranty issue if other vehicles of the same year and model also have the same behavior, and there is no recall notice.
I had a whining noise coming from the rear differential on my MS6, and under warranty, I had a new differential dropped in. The whining noise is now gone. Your dealer shouldn't be giving you the runaround. Ask for the service manager, explain your issue and that you would like the Mazda regional tech/rep to take a look at the car to make sure. If you still get some BS answer, ask for the number to Mazda corporate so you can escalate the issue.
I always try to keep up with the maintanance required by Mazda. However, upon checking with manual service book, I didn't see any transmission fluid flush / exchange required in the book. By any chance, does any of you know when this transmission fluid is due to be replaced? I have checked with a few authorized Mazda dealers in Southern Wisconsin and Northern Illinois, but everyone tells me different story as each dealer seems to have a different idea on when I am supposed to my transmission fluid flush/exchange. FYI, I currently own an automatic 2003 Mazda 6 2.3L with around 35k miles. Thanks and any advice / experience you can share will truly appreciated!
:confuse:
You're kidding, right?
Synthetic fluid would be very expensive to change every 10,000 miles. Even conventional trans fluid only needs changing about every 30,000 miles.
If it is synthetic fluid, I don't think I'd consider changing until at least 80,000 miles. That seems to be about the earliest recomendation I have read from folks who seem to know what they are talking about with regard to synthetic trans fluid.
My wife's Jetta has synthetic fluid and I figure in another 6-8 years when the mileage gets to 80,000 there will maybe be better information on what is advisable. I figure I'll check into it then and decide whether to change or keep going with the original fluid.
Any help appreciated!
Doug
http://www.bmwworld.com/repairs/detailing/tree_sap.htm
Auto trans fluid replacement interval will vary with climate and driving (city/hwy/tow)...with the orig fluid, I would assume avg is 60k with 30k for cautious.
10k is for extreme, which I consider:
- living within 15 degrees from equator and blasting away from sand storms
- couldn't afford F150
- race...but why buy auto?
- rolling back odo by driving in reverse
- unemployment rate just jumped to 20% in my city
- talking to your car before you go to bad each night...can't blame anyone for loving the car
...take the 10k with a smile
Thank you for the link. That was exactly what I was looking for. :-)
Not to push my luck here with a couple more questions for anyone that has some suggestions but:
1. I have yet to wash the car for the first time, I read somewhere on here about a product I can buy (called ShineGleen or something like that) that should be applied before the car is washed. This supposedely protects the original finish and helps prevent "swirls" in the paint from repeated washes.
2. Any recommendations on what products work best to protect all the interior leather surfaces?
3. I want to remove or protect the factory Mazda floor mats, any suggestions? Is there a reputable online etailer that sells aftermarket mazda mats?
4. MECHANICAL QUESTION: (Im asking this question here because I think the answer is obvious but I just want to make sure before I go to the dealer which is quite a distance from me) - My Mazda 6 does NOT have the Auto Climate control. When I move the temperature dial clockwise from the blue (cold) towards the red (warmer), the dial won't turn past about the halfway point (12:00 position). It turns counterclockwise all the way back into the blue but stops turning into the red.
the air does get warmer but never gets hot. I'm assuming this is not normal?
I tried to search for some of these ansswers but I am "on the road" and only have dial-up access and it takes foreverr for pages to dislplay. So I appologize if these are answered already on here.
Once again, thank you for the help.
Doug
There's nothing in my owner's manual ('04 6s) about a transmission fluid change either, so I sent Mazda an email and asked.
No other problems to report in my '04 6s after 18,500 miles. It's been a good car. I am getting a little tired of the large turning radius, though, especially when my wife's Pilot is much more nimble.
Mazda recommends the transmission fluid be changed at 30K. That was in response to an email I sent.
I first applied the Dupli-color "Protective Paintable Rubberized Undercoating", followed by a thin layer of "Professional Undercoat with Sound Eliminator-Quick Dry". The reason I did that is that the second product dries very quickly and forms a thin rubber coating, whereas the first coat is pretty darn heavy (adds mass) but is slow to dry.
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Good luck! :lemon:
UPDATE: Refer to message #1628 and track the following discussions.