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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    You might want to check over on the Maintenance & Repair board in the Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) discussion. A lot of talk there about all kinds of car care products.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Zaino is my recommendation. There is a board for it, where I learned all about it. Great stuff, easy to use, lasts for months.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    We are picking up our 2005 6 tomorrow. Anyone out there do their own oil/filter changes? I found the oil filter on the front of the engine, looks to be accessible, except for the hot downpipe next to it. I did not find the drain plug during our eval. What about 5W-20 oil? Is that readily available? I've not looked for it yet, use 5W-30 on our other cars.
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    If the car is still under the warranty period, the dealer should replace the headlight. I would, and I work as a service tech at a mazda dealer. Nothing bugs me more than when a dealer wont warranty something on a car. I have absolutely NO problem warrantying anything on covered cars. We get paid by mazda to do the work, we make money, and we make a customer happy. End of story. Contact another dealer and ask them. The extended warrany MIGHT be different as to what it covers, but from my experiences the Mazda factory extended warranty covers the same things as the original bumper to bumper.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've done all of my 04' wagon's oil/filter changes so far.

    On a V6, the filter is in an awkward spot and angled forward. When you break the seal on it, oil tends to run down onto the block which can make quite a mess of that area. To avoid this, when I start loosening the filter by hand I push forward on the bottom of it while turning the filter several times quickly (to get some quick separation from the block), and sometimes I can succeed in getting the flow of oil to start down the filter instead of down the block, but this is difficult to achieve. To keep the exhaust pipe clean, I wrap a piece of tin foil over the top of it, and make the ends u-shaped so the spillage from the filter will run off the foil into my collection container. The filter also barely fits between the exhaust pipe and the radiator support, so you have to be careful there. On my car it needs to be tilted a bit so the lip at the top will fit through. It's easy to make a mess while changing the filter on this car, so you just have to be patient and careful.

    The drain plug is located just above the rear bottom edge of the oil pan, so it is oriented horizontally facing the rear of the car. Unfortunately it has an integrated rubber washer, which does not seal very well. I've always been careful not to over-torque it, but even so I find an oil stain around the plug every time I do a change. It has to be the plug, as nothing above it is leaking, and I have de-greased the entire area twice following changes only to find the stain return again. Personally, I like crush washers better - I've never had one leak on me.

    When I first bought my car, 5W-20 was not very common in my area, but now I am able to choose from a few different brands in some of the major parts store chains. I used to use Mobil1 as it was the only 5W-20 full synthetic available here at first (sometimes it was sold out), but switched to Pennzoil Platinum two changes ago. Both of those are full synthetics. Apparently Mazda uses (or at least they used to) a Motorcraft synthetic blend for this car, which many online say they have tried and like, but I have not used it myself.

    Enjoy your new toy!
  • lefthandmanlefthandman Member Posts: 47
    I second all of the previous comments by Slickdog regarding the oil drain plug, oil filter removal, etc. I own a 2004 M6 5-door w/ the 3.0 liter V6 and also do all of my own oil changes. After the first change I began using Mobil 1 5W-30 (recommended by one of the service techs and a parts guy at my local Mazda dealer), and as of 36,000 miles the engine has shown absolutely no sign of burning or losing any oil between changes (5,000 mile intervals). I changed the oil every 4,000 miles until about 30,000 miles, but my dad convinced me Mobil 1 easily can go 5,000 miles between changes. Good luck, ...and zoom, zoom! :shades:
  • dannyrdannyr Member Posts: 12
    I have the exact same situation (2004 Automatic) that krame00 has so I hope this is the problem because it is beyond annoying. Occasional non starts where the electrical power is on but all I get is clicking noises and it's not turning over. The 1st time it happened I ended up getting it towed to the dealer and of course as soon as it got there it started no problem and they couldn't find the problem while charging me $50 to look. That was 2 weeks ago and every couple of days it does it but I just wait and try starting over and over again until it starts. It's pissing me off that I have to cross my fingers everytime I turn the key and hope that I don't get stranded somewhere. I love the car but I'm thinking of buying something else just because of this.

    I won't have a chance to go to the dealer until next week so what should I do in the meantime if it happens again so I don't get stuck somewhere. Is there a trick to get it started. Should you just toggle the shifter back and forth until it fully engages in park.
  • krame00krame00 Member Posts: 21
    Hi, there -

    I don't get the clicking noises - that almost sounds like a dead battery.

    With my problem, I definitely think it is the clutch (park) safety. Now whenever this happens to me, I disengage the clutch and engage it again, and it starts right up. I imagine that moving it from park to drive and back would essentially be the same thing.

    Khana
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Not that I know anything about this, but I would not think you would get a click-click-click, if it is one of those interlocks. I would think nothing at all would happen if the safety switch is preventing it from starting. That (nothing) is what happens if you turn the key while you have it in D or do not depress the clutch, right?
  • fredvufredvu Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for all the comments in previous posts.
    I have a 2007 Mazda6 2.3L automatic and just changed the oil to syn Valvoline 5/20 at 3k (yeah, I know it is a little late ..., $20.95 for 6 quarts at Kragen now) I also drained the ATF and refilled with Amsoil syn ATF. However, I was not able to figure out how to get to the cartridge. Can someone tell me how to open this "plastic" cover?
  • dannyrdannyr Member Posts: 12
    I replaced my battery last year and the dealership said that and the alternator were fine. What I do also get is all the needles on the dash going up or down like crazy while it is clicking. There's power on the instrument panel but nothing seems to be sparking the engine and since it does this like once a week I don't think it could be the starter because it's cranking over with no problem when it does start.

    Give me anything but an electrical problem because, unless it happens in front of a mechanic, it's almost impossible to diagnose snd the constant fear of being stranded makes me want to get rid of an enjoyable car.
  • wak1wak1 Member Posts: 5
    thanks very much for the link sorry i posted in the wrong column as i have only just joined and not sure how it all works just yet.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You didn't post in the wrong place at all! Pf_flyer was just giving you an additional resource. You're doing fine - welcome to CarSpace! :)
  • raymartyraymarty Member Posts: 1
    I have 2004 Mazda 6 Automatic, this morning the car wouldn't start. When I put key in the ignition and turn it on, all the needles on dash go crazy while clicking but the engine wouldn't crank up. The radio works well, so do the lights.....
    Called the dealer and spoke to the service technician, he says the battery may be the problem, when I mentioned Radio and Lights work he comment was the battery may not have enough voltage to crank up the engine but still has some juice left in it.

    Called Mazda Roadside Assistance waiting for the TOW truck to take the car to the dealer. As per the warranty manual Mazda pays for 15% of the replacement battery's suggested retail price for 37-48 months.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • krame00krame00 Member Posts: 21
    OK folks - I am seeing a trend here. We are all the class of '04, and we are all having the same symptoms with our cars.

    I am almost certain now it is an issue with the safety mechanism that prevents the car from starting when the clutch is not engaged (or not in Park).

    Here is the deal - I know the group of us is a fairly small representation of the 2004s out there - but I would be willing to bet that this is another one of those first model year issues that us lucky Mazda 6 oldtimers get to face (like the squealing brakes, the clutch judder, condensation in the car, etc.. etc...).

    Mazda was more than willing to work with us at no cost on many of these issues, recognizing that they were design or parts issues.

    Hopefully we can get them to recognize that this is one of those issues, too - even though it happens at a later stage.

    One word of advice for anyone with this issue - Mazda techs will want to throw a battery at the problem, and that is definitely not the issue. It is wasted money.

    Khana
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I know the cars are not made by the same manufacturer but I know owners of the Oldsmobile Intrigue (of which I am an owner) have had problems like you described and the issue is with the ignition switch.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Just bought a 2005 6 V6 5 speed a few weeks ago. I notice that if I kick it into neutral when costing up to a stop, that the idle goes up to 1500 rpm. When the car comes to a complete stop, it will drop to 900 or so. It is still under warranty, and I have an appt at dealer for next week. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this. This car has had the throttle body replaced under warranty or a recall.
    I also notice it is hard to drive this car at a steady low speed. Even if the pedal is held steady, the engine hunts and surges abruptly. I'm thinking there is a vacuum leak or a sensor is bad causing both of these symptoms. Any ideas?
  • dannyrdannyr Member Posts: 12
    OK I have bee able to start my car with no problem for the last week or so. I also have been conscious of the fact that my car was firmly set in park after I turned it off. So I'm thinking that must be the problem. Like a previous poster mentioned, it is not the battery.

    I also have to go in to get it serviced for a constant squealing niose from one of the belts that is at it's loudest when idling which over time has gotten unbearable and this all started about a year ago. It makes the car sound like a 20 year old jalopy and actually quite embarassing. Mazda said last year that it was the serpentine belt which has a self adjusting tensioner and I have to live with it. Now that it has become louder they say I need the belt and tensioner replaced for $200+ dollars. Anybody have this problem and was this the proper fix?

    I've decided to sell this car this summer so I just want it sounding smooth and not like a winter beater. I love the driving dynamics of this car but I must have gotten a lemon because it's been one thing after another. Here's a list of my problems of my 4 year old car with 72K KM.

    -The aforementioned squealing belt and starting issues.

    -Fraying cloth seats- both the original and replaced ones. Funny thing is the seats that no one sits in are the most worn and won't last another 2 years.

    -Battery died after 3 years.

    -Gas tank leaking every time a filled it up. Besides making a permenent mess of my driveway, my car stunk like gas for weeks afterward. Had to get an entire new gas tank which was out of warrenty but the dealer, knowing my car's history, got head office to approve it under warranty, saved me $1000.

    -Air conditioner compressor replaced just before the 3 year warranty expired. would have been another costly repair, this was after a selector switch(?) was fixed when the AC broke down 6 months after I bought it.

    -the infamous rust spots along the doors. The doors are fine but now I discovered that thay forgot to seal the trunk right by the hinges and surface rust is now bubbling there. There is also surface rust appearing along the outside black borders framing the rear windows. I've always washed and waxed this car regularly so it wasn't because of owner neglect on my part.

    -the horrible downshifting issues where at low speeds it feels like you got rammed by a MAC truck because it is so rough.

    -the interior covers falling off door lights and fuse box.

    -Also the recalls for the cooling fan module and doors not closing in cold weather.

    I've spent so much time at the dealership I should be getting frequent flyer miles. Luckily my job is flexible and allows me to drop off my car at my convenience. I know my car was a launch model in Canada but to have this many different issues is inexcusable and I'm afraid to own this car any longer without a warranty. Mazda has really fallen off for reliablility. I had a 1990 MX 6 for years and the thing performed rock solid but this car is a joke and I will never buy another Mazda nor recommend one to someone else. It's a shame because they do make fun cars to drive.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Do you have a V6 or the 4 cyl?
  • dannyrdannyr Member Posts: 12
    V6 but with the issues I've had I don't think it matters what engine I have. Since next year it appears Mazda is going back to making thier family sedans into big vanilla underpowered boats like the 626 days I don't really have a desire to own one again.
  • tenzoomtenzoom Member Posts: 1
    hey guys..I bought mazda 6 2004. the head light is not clear or poor. Do i need to change the light bulb or ? please suggest
  • fannin23fannin23 Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone here can help. I drove my mazda6 from columbus, OH. to St. Louis, MO. last night. Much of this drive was thru the rain. Towards the end of the trip we noticed the floor on the front passenger side was wet. When we would go around turns we were getting a swishing sound and water has been dripping underneath the passenger side dash board. All mazda dealerships service is closed until tuesday of course. In need to go back to Ohio on monday. I think I might have a clogged drain that has let rainwater get backed up into the dash. Does anyone know how to open this drain or have had the same problem? Any help is greatly appreciated. I looked thru past threads and saw someone has had this before but I never found the resolution of the problem here...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Usually there is an A/C drain somewhere in that area on most cars...but does not sound like that is the problem if it only happened in rain.

    If you have a moon roof, I think there is a drain for that too...don't know how that is routed or anything...but that might be another possible source of the problem.

    I once had a Horizon with similar symptoms and it turned out it was the road spray from the wheel that was leaking in. Dealer fixed it on the second attempt. Maybe you could borrow or buy a shop vac for now and hope it doesn't rain too much on your way home.
  • tehighamtehigham Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Mazda6 decided not to start today. I tested the battery with a voltmeter and it reads 12.7 volts (just fine). When I try to start the car, all of the meters start to flicker back and forth. The security mechanism light also flickers on and off. I tried the hazards and it made a loud buzzing sound. Has anyone experienced this? I have a manual 5 spd.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    12.7 isn't a good reading.
  • dannyrdannyr Member Posts: 12
    Sounds exactly like what my car was doing. As mentioned in my previous posts it seems to happen at indiscriminate times.

    last week i got stranded downtown during rush hour and was not looking forward to a tow, fortunately I got it started after 20 minutes and lots of swearing and made it home. I was going the next day into the dealer to get my serpentine belt and tensioner replaced and again brought this starting problem up. They didn't know what to do unless the problem was replicated there as the reading on the battery seemed fine and it was only a year old and they didn't want to guess with replacing stuff.

    Lo and behold in a moment that may be one of the greatest moments in my life the car wouldn't start as I was leaving the dealer. This never happens according to Murphy's law. Never been so happy to have my car not start. They brought it back in and then said that my battery had a bad cell or something. This will be my 3rd battery in my 4 year old car so either something's draining it prematurely or I have lousy luck with batteries and bad cells.

    On a side note, I found another rust spot the size of a dime along the top corner of the car. It appears they didn't seal the crease well enough between the front windshield and sheetmetal on the top. The adventure continues and just counting the days until it leaves my garage.
  • wak1wak1 Member Posts: 5
    i have just bought a new 6, black mica colour i have noticed a few minor scratches on it,i had the paint gaurd done but i was wondering is it a good idea to to apply a really good wax and polish maybe to try and cover these up and help protect it a bit more, can anyone suggest a really good wax and polish treatment.
  • wak1wak1 Member Posts: 5
    i am thinking of using meguiars full protection kit on my new 6 could anyone tell me if this is a good choice as i am really not up to date with polishes or waxes.
  • dbstahlmandbstahlman Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem on my 2004 Mazda 6i (4 cyl). I have owned the car for 9 months and it just started this wierd surging recently. I am looking for ideas on a fix as well.
  • dbstahlmandbstahlman Member Posts: 3
    I invested in the high end xeon bulbs at Advance Auto ($35 for a pair) and it made a world of difference. Factory bulbs were terrible. A little tricky to put in, but if you practice on the old ones before doing the new ones you will get it.
  • mazdaedmazdaed Member Posts: 7
    It looks like it'll cost ~ $500 to remove the wing spoiler from a '07 Mazda6 HB (includes repainting, etc.). Has anyone tried to substitute a lip spoiler or something like that on the deck lid ? It will probably be another brand since not all the holes are covered up by a Mazda lip spoiler.
  • lefthandmanlefthandman Member Posts: 47
    Scott,

    I own an '04 M6S 5-door hatch with the 3.0 V6 and 5 speed manual, and have a couple of thoughts on the surging and high idle:

    (1) I've been told (though not researched it) that emission controls on the '04 V6 engine cause the high idle you described, particularly between shifts during hard acceleration This also might be the case on the '05.
    (2) You may know the 3.0 liter V6 used in the M6 is Ford-sourced (based on the Duratec V6) and utilizes a modified throttle body fuel injection system, which is not as precise at delivering fuel to the cylinders as a port-type fuel injection system. While I like my M6 a lot, one of my biggest complaints is the throttle control, which is poor at best, particularly for a vehicle with a manual transmission.

    I've owned my M6 for almost three years, and if my experience with the car is any indication, I think you're just going to have to live with the surging, high idle and imprecise throttle control.

    Good luck!
    Lefthandman
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    I took it in to the dealer, it is still under warranty. They replaced the throttle body, and both symptoms were cured.
  • miatasportscarmiatasportscar Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 Mazda 6i, at 64 mph has a front end (right side) kind of buzzing noise, like a baffle or something vibrates against something. Nerve racking, stays at 64-70 mph. Anyone ever had this happen? Also front brake rotors are shot at 18K. Otherwise the finest driving mid-sized sedan one could ever own. If you've had this vibrating, buzzing noise, let us hear from you. Sounds like a baffle, plastic panel, something like that...
  • gregoryhgregoryh Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 mazda 6, the problem is with the A/C on the fan cycles on and off. The fan will come on and run for about 30-60 seconds and than turn off for only about 10-15 seconds. We had the A/C checked and it had a full charge. This car only have 42000 miles and you would thank it still under warranty but is not because I'm in the military and is station in Germany. Thanks for your help
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Which fan? The fan in the AC system that circulates air in the interior or the fan on the radiator?
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Yes, we all need to know if it is the HVAC fan or coolant fan.
    I just bought a 2005 6S, and while being checked over after trade-in, some type of service bulletin was done regarding a fan control module. I saw this on a warranty report I got after buying it. I don't know which fan this was for.
    Perhaps yours needs this upgrade.
    I could look over the paperwork to try to figure out a number or title if you can't figure it out some other way.
  • gregoryhgregoryh Member Posts: 2
    The radiator fan
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    The radiator fan

    You are a likely candidate for the TSB on the Fan Control Module. Take it to the dealer, and have it replaced. It's a 10-minute job, and it shouldn't cost you a cent.
  • mazdaedmazdaed Member Posts: 7
    My brand new '07 Mazda 6i HB (touring) was just put in the shop at the dealer because of a strange scraping (high-pitch) noise when shifting from N to R with foot on brake. Less noise when shifting from D to N. This only happens after driving car for 5-10 min. Anyone else have this problem ?! It only has 300 miles on it !!!!!!!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    My 07 6i Hatch GT has no unusual noises when shifting from D to N.
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    Just wondering if anyone knows... there is a sticker on the front inside of the drivers door that says "HE5". Just wondered what that meant? It is on my 2003 Mazda 6i
  • mazdaedmazdaed Member Posts: 7
    The dealer said the idle arm was defective and is replacing it. (I'm not sure how this is related to the transmission noise though)
  • angelsfanangelsfan Member Posts: 7
    My girlfriend dropped an earring coincidently down the gap near the emergency brake. I didn't know if it was possible to remove the panel myself to get to it, or if I'd have to have the dealer do it. I also didn't know if it can fall out of the car from there too, or if it's safe stuck inside. Has anyone else had this happen and if so, what did they do?? I'm a little panicked... :(
  • miatasportscarmiatasportscar Member Posts: 3
    Dealer diagnosed and repaired the noise. Turned out to be an exhaust shield. It needed to be repositioned. They replaced new rotors as well. All under warranty, now my 6i is perfect in every way. I am a used car dealer, but highly recommend Ontario Mazda, Canandaigua, NY for service. They simply are the best in the business. I will bring my 6i there for routine maintenance, and I have a shop I use for my own used cars. Pays to have a good dealer, these cars are usually great, but the noise bothered me, and is all fixed. Hats off to Ontario Mazda! :):)
  • mazdaedmazdaed Member Posts: 7
    As they were fixing this in the shop, they also found the heat shield near the catalytic converter was loose and they had to replace it. That's 2 problems for a 2.5 week old car ! Is this normal ?
  • lefthandmanlefthandman Member Posts: 47
    After a hard winter here in Colorado (more than seven feet of snow this season where I live), it's great driving around with the windows down again. But I've started noticing a slight "ching-ing" noise coming from the suspension and/or under carriage of my '04 M6 5-door - somewhat like a series of chain links clanking together. It most often occurs (or at least I notice it most) when driving over pavement expansion joints, through street gutters, etc (small bumps at speeds below approx. 30 mph). The noise is independent of the brakes (occurs whether the brake pedal is applied or not). Any thoughts? The local Mazda dealer didn't find anything amiss when I had the car in recently for the cooling fan control module recall. Thanks!
  • miatasportscarmiatasportscar Member Posts: 3
    My heat shield was repaired at 18,000 miles on an '06 without incident. Just be thankful you have a dealer willing to repair a couple problems on a 2 1/2 week old car. Hopefully you won't find anything else wrong. Mazda cars are bulletproof when it comes to reliability, so count your blessings and drive your new car and enjoy it. Before my '06 6i, I had an '04 6i with 74,000 miles and a 5 speed, it ran like a Rolex until I sold it and bought this '06 used with 17,980 miles. Don't worry about "little" glitches which can be repaired. It's the overall build quality, handling, mpg, that REALLY makes your '07 superb. Drive it and enjoy ot,,,,little things happen even if you buy a Rolls-Royce!
    :)
  • amatusf21amatusf21 Member Posts: 2
    So last december my 03 6s started this shaking/stuttering thing between 40-60 mph. I took it into the dealership and made them update the software, though they said the problem i was feeling was "normal". Since this had never happened before, I didn't consider it normal. Now, after 6 months of this "normal" problem, it shakes in idle as well as every other gear while accelerating. You have to let up off the gas or hit it harder for it to stop, then next time you change speeds it starts again. And just recently upon hard acceleration, there is a belt screeching sound involved....has anyone else had issues close to this?
    I am taking it back in the shop friday to have the fan module replaced for the THIRD time (which i have to pay for since it was already replaced as a recall) and the car is no longer under warrenty so i'm terrified at what they are going to find when i have them check this again (and normal is not a finding). I am 5 1/2 mths preggie and need this car to stay reliable for me!!!
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