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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • I love my Mazda6 2005, looking for the answer. I probably am the only one in S. Korea. Still, electric fan runs consistantly, A/C on or off. A/C cools normally. Engine warms quickly, Fuel gauge reads normal. Electric fan control unit above/under the shroud gone bad? 24K miles. Thermostat stuck? Looking for help. Ford dealer in Korea say they cannot diagnostic vehicle.
  • I have the 4 cylinder. A new (rebuilt) Mass flow sensor from A Zone seems to have corrected the problem.
  • I'm at 49,000 on my 05 6 Sport and it was the battery also. Nothing like being greeted first thing in the morning to "click click click" and haywire gauges at the turn of the key. :sick: After a jump I made it to the dealer and (after 2 hours including an oil change) was the proud owner of a new battery, but warranty? HAH! Cost me $93.00 (+ the oil change), a savings of 10%. Apparently the warranty was "prorated." Bumper-to-bumper to 50k? Right. :mad:
  • A battery is considered a wear item, and usually not covered in a bumper-to-bumper warranty, similar to brake pads, rotors, wiper blades, etc.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    I agree with mz6. Battery is wear item just like tires.
    The warranty is explained in detail in the warranty booklet that is delivered with the vehicle.
  • (Sorry for the long post below but I'm sure the info may be helpful to those of you having or will be having the battery failure/weird electrical problem that is starting to show up on Mazda6's).

    Last Saturday in the driveway, my '05 Mazda6 Sport w/V6, automatic and low mileage (13,500) had the same no-start, crazy dancing needles on the gauges with and without the key in the ignition, buzzing sound when the hazard lights were turned on (or attempted to be turned on), can't unlock or lock doors via key fob, etc. When I saw the bouncing needles on the dash, I too initially thought that the engine computer had fried as others have mentioned. But as I investigated and checked the battery voltage as tehigham did in message #2306, I also measured 12.7 V (by the way, the "green eye" charge indicator that your battery has on the topside is not to be trusted, i.e., if it shows green, as my battery did, the battery is suppose to be fine). Knowing that 12.7 V is too low for a healthy battery, which should read closer to 14 V, I turned on the headlights to load the battery and saw the voltage drop to 7.2V. This told me that I had a bad battery with probably a bad cell. Now I did the following which resulted in a little bit different warranty experience than jbwilk above in message #2360.
    1. Knowing that I had some warranty coverage on my battery (I thought 25% since I'm past 24 months per the warranty book), I went to the nearest Walmart to find out the cost of the cheapest battery for my car. The only battery I could find was selling for $53 and had a 60 month warranty. Knowing that the dealer would overcharge for probably a 36 month battery, I called the local Mazda dealer to discuss my situation and then determine the better option. They let me know that they would pro-rate to 50% (better than the 25% I thought) and the labor to install the battery would be covered under the 4 yr/50K mile vehicle warranty (all this was assuming the battery was bad). I asked for a tow since I have roadside assistance (don't we all have this when we buy the Mazda6?) and was referred to Mazda Customer Care (1-800-...). Customer Care arranged for a tow truck and it arrived 45 minutes later (as I was told by an automated computer that called me a couple of times as to the status of the tow truck - worked very well and was accurate.)
    2. I didn't let the tow truck driver jump my battery as he wanted because of what I had already found out through the voltage check, but also because I had charged my battery overnight Saturday and still had the no start condition and weird electrical signs.
    3. When I arrived at the dealership in the tow truck with my car, I let the service guy know that I also wanted the recall done for the fan control module (code SSP 71) since I recvd a letter on this issue some time ago (April 2007). Now I tried to get him to throw in the battery for free since I argued that the fan's erratic behavior shortened the battery's life (the fan sometimes ran at different speeds after engine shut off or came on even when the engine was cold and the A/C was off). He didn't disagree with my reasoning but ultimately said that I should have had the recall done several months ago. I pushed a little more but he was telling me that if the battery was bad, he was going to replace it at a cost of $45 to me (50% pro-rated). I said that I could get a 60 month battery at Walmart for $53, but then he said I would also receive a 60 month battery but better yet the pro-rating would not apply with the dealership replacement battery. I would, however, pay for the labor to install the new battery if it every went bad which he said wouldn't be very much. I said Ok but also ask that he check the poor performing AC, which he blew off saying that nothing could be done about the weak AC (another dealer had said the same thing to me a while ago about Mazda6's and knowing that a lot of Mazda owners have had this complaint via their messages on Edmunds, I dropped the request). I also ask the service guy to check the sluggish throttle response (even though I had another dealer download the electronic throttle software fix which had almost cured the lag problem).
    4. The recall work provided me a rental car for free. I was driven to a Herz rental car agency nearby and made the mistake of giving them my credit card when I was asked. After my brain was finally engaged, but too late since my number was now in the Herz computer, I started questioning the Herz guy why my credit card number was needed. He really didn't give me a straight answer, but he did acknowledge that some people who get the dealership loaner car have refused to give Herz their credit card number. So I take it that you don't need to give your credit card number when getting a free rental car during dealership work. Also, when he asked for my insurance company name, I politely refused and he was OK with that. After I got the rental paperwork, I noticed that Mazda would only provide $30 coverage so I was now vulnerable to any overcharges by Herz (by the way, don't play with the GPS in the rental car because you could get charged $10.95 per day for doing so).
    4. Today Tuesday (it's actually very early Wed. morning as I write this), I got my car back from Mazda. They did find the battery to be faulty and replaced it for $45. They didn't do anything about the throttle response issue because I already had the software fix - I was hoping that Mazda had a second update since I'm still not happy with the sluggish response. I also had the oil changed for $19.95 due a coupon I printed out from the dealer's website. So I paid the dealer a total of $67.09 and ended up with a 60 month "Mazda" battery, an oil change, a new fan control module (the fan isn't running erratically anymore), and a car wash plus interior vacuum. This is not bad considering that last time I had my Honda minivan serviced at the Honda dealer it cost me over $800 for 60,000 mile service. I know, I got ripped off...
    5. And speaking of rip off, when I returned the rental to Herz (Mazda didn't let me just drop the rental off at their place), I was looking at a big extra charge. Now, before I had left Herz on Monday, I made it very clear to them, knowing that Mazda would provide a rental car for only one day (exactly 24 hrs.), I did not expect to be charged for having the car a little over 24 hrs - obviously, delays can happen with dealership work. I was reassured that this wouldn't be an issue. But sure enough, I had the car for 27 hrs. and Herz was looking to charge my credit card with another day of rental (hence, I shouldn't have given them my credit card!). The other thing I did before I left the Mazda dealership on Monday, I asked the service guy about having the rental car beyond the one day if needed due to the repairs. He said no problem, they would cover any time over one day since I was asking Mazda to do more work than just the recall -
  • I'm in California and received a recall for the erratic fan behavior in April 2007. Turns out the fan control module needs to be replaced. This recall is known as SSP71 (I think this stands for Special Service Program 71) which is a recall notice. This is a no charge repair with free rental car for a day (at least, these are the terms I recvd). Hope you can get this repair for your car in Korea!
  • datdude,
    Just wanted to says thanks for you input about our Mazdas.
  • datdude,
    I have the notice here for the SSP71. I am hoping Mazda can send the unit here and somehow provide me the location to replace it, whether it be Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda (but I think there is not Mazda dealership in Korea) or maybe through the Army Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) Motor Vehicles Sales. I am calling after Columbus Day.
  • mkovacs - I'm hoping that you'll be able to get your fan control module as well. Now that I have it on my car, the erratic fan behavior is gone and the fan acts "normal" or as normal as expected.

    As a side note, I used to work for AAFES at Mather Air Force Base in Sacramento, CA over 20 yrs. ago. My dad was in the USAF so I know exactly what you're talking about. I just hope AAFES has improved like 150% since I worked for them - especially when it comes to ordering things.
  • I've a 6 Wagon GT. Don't have the Pirellis and don't have wheel hop. However, my previous ride was a Saab 9-5 with the Pirelli PZeros and those tires would flat spot over night, which I understand is not uncommon for low profile tires. Is the wheel hop most noticeable after the car sits overnight and does it seem to disappear after you drive for a while? If so, it's due to flat spots. The same thing happens on my Miata, which has Kumho Ecstas.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    Have you ever driven a tight suspension car with low profile tires? from the description of your problem, I will say NO.

    I have the 2003 Mazda6 with 18" wheels and 235/40/18 tires and the ride is amazing over 66000 miles. Feels as good as the day I bought it.

    I will say what you are feeling is road irregularities which will be easily transmitted to you (feedback) because of the low profile / high perf tires.
  • I bought a 2006 Mazda6 in March of this year...great car, absolutely love it. In August, the check engine light came on, and a few days later both key fobs stopped working. Service department reprogrammed the key fobs (said they "just stopped communicating with the car") and tightened my gas cap. They told me the check engine light came on because I had not turned the cap the required 3 times (oh, but I did) and to be sure I do from then on or the light would come on again. Two weeks ago, check engine light came on again, car idles way down at stop lights as if it will cut off, after pumping gas I have to crank the engine and keep my foot on the gas in order to start the car, and this weekend the key fobs stoppped working again. The car goes in for service again on Wednesday, but I'd love to know if anyone else is having similar issues? I LOVE my car, but this is a little ridiculous.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    Front tires are starting to cup. Zero issues other than the tires.
  • I have a 2004 Mazda6 with 50000 miles and had very simliar issues when starting it up for the last couple of months. I would have to pump the gas in order to keep the car from idling way down or even dying. I've taken it into the dealership (before 50000) and they claimed to fix it. Low and behold I went to start it up yesterday and it did the same thing. Then that afternoon it wouldn't start at all. Don't know if the two problems are related, but now it just cranks and cranks. We just replaced the battery a week ago because it was dead (1st replacement since purchase). We have towed it to the dealership and are waiting on a response. Hopefully this will go under my warranty since the didn't fix it the first time!
  • dsiriasdsirias Posts: 34
    Just 2K miles on car. I filled up yesterday and clicked the gas cap once. That might be it. But no other problems so far. I have read in other mazda forums that the check engine light will go away after a few days if it's really just the fuel cap and it has been tightened.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    Klasse

    awesome protection.
  • Hi , I came across your issue becauseI have had the same situation , and it started with my keyless not able to start // I have a mazda 6 with 50.000 miles 2003 , bought it from a dealer and Ive bee nexperiencing the same issue and now,im getting the check engine light on // I m wondering it it has to do something with the electrical system
    first time here sorry if this was asked recently !!!!!

    KARLO
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Start with cel...autozone or most auto parts suppliers will
    plug in their reader for free...at least in westcentral IL.
  • Two days after I re-tightened the gas cap. This is just as predicted by several posters at Mazda forum. I guess it takes time for the computer to re-set IF it is just a gas cap issue. But if there are other electrical symptoms, it seems like one should proceed to the dealer without delay.
  • I have a '03 Mazda6 and over the past week I have been having some problems when my car's engine is cold. In the mornings or if the car has been setting for a few hours the car is extremly hard to start. After serveral attempts the engine gets warm enough to start but it idles roughly. Once the temp needle gets in temp reading range the rough idling starts getting smoother and stablizes once the temp gets to about the normal range. Since the outside temp has been cold lately I have been using the heater which also effects the situation. Using the heater drives the engine temp down causing the to stall. Is there a sensor that regulates this? Oh and the engine light is on.

    I am hoping that someone has the solution to this because if I can repair this myself that would be great...... car repair is exspensive especially at the dealer.

    Thank you......... in advance! :cry:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Many auto parts stores, such as autozone, will read the check engine codes for you for free. So you might start by doing that and seeing if you can find out why that is on.
  • I had the same problems with my 06 it took the dealership awhile to figure it out, cuz kept telling me gas cap was triggering it. DO yo smell gas if you fill up tank completeley? It ended up that they had to replace the entire tank to fix the issue something in the tank releasing fumes and causeing engine light to come on and made car die.
  • I swear that the center Dial(the one that us used to turn on the front defrost) used to have a light behind it that would illuminate the white parts of the dial like the other two but the dealer says that it is not supposed to. Does anyone know it it really does or am I just crazy.
  • Nope. You're not crazy. All three of the dials light up.
  • I'm shopping for a wagon car since I need the cargo space, but don't want the poor fuel consumption of an SUV. The VW Passat wagon is great, but they have a terrible maintenance history, plus expensive dealer service requireed for most issues even oil-change!

    I'm considering the Mazda6 wagon (used, perhaps 2005 or newer). What is the reputation for quality, repair, maintenance cost? What are the Mazda6 major known problems I should look out for?

    Thank for your input, you make this forum great!
  • So it is about a month later after all these posts concerning the non start issue, haywire needles dancing around, etc. I would like to know if it was indeed the battery that was the issue. I have a read a few posts where people have changed the battery and down the road the car again fails to start.

    This has now happened to me yesterday. As I parked the car in my driveway, my wheels were turned. I wanted to straighten them up, but when I tried to turn the car back on, nothing except the clicking and the crazy needles jumping back and forth. I rolled the car and straightened the wheels thinking that it had something to do with it, but still it would not start. About a year ago, I this problem if my wheels were turned, I couldn't even turn my key, so I ended up having the ingition switch replaced under warranty. The problem I had yesterday was a bit different because the key was turning fine, it just wasn't starting the car and all it was doing was clicking and needles jumping around.

    When I boosted the car, it started and I let it run for a bit. However, when I shut the car down and tried to restart, it wouldn't start. Again the clicking and the needles.

    So I bought a new battery from Walmart (89$ - Energizer) and I will replace the old battery today. I just wanted to hear from anyone that may have found something in the car that was causing the over drain on the battery's charge or if it is simply time for a battery change? I'm driving a 2004 (bought in 2003) 6i Sedan manual with 69K km.

    Thanks. WIthout these message boards, I think we would really be at the mercy of the dealers and service centres when it comes such issues.
  • I don't know anything about your car, but there are some basic clues that you have that can guide you.

    If the car starts easily when you jumped it, then you probably have a battery-power problem. The indication is that you may not have had enough power to turn the motor for starting, or not enough power to operate the electronics (ECU/computer) which is vital to starting/operating. That usually means the battery was weak, or a cable connection was not reliable. A strong battery can overcome a poor electrical connection to some degree.

    After jump starting, your car would not start on it's own. So the power supplied by the jump-start was sufficient, but your own car did not charge your battery sufficiently, or you were not able to get sufficient power from your battery again.

    With a simple voltmeter from radio-shack you can do a preliminary/basic battery check. Most repair shops can do this for you too. You should also check all cables and connections that come from your battery. Do a visual check, and try to move the connections. Make sure they are all clean (no corrosion) and attached well/solidly. A flimsy connection can severely reduce the power throughput from the battery.

    If your battery and connections are good, then you have a more complex problem, perhaps an ECU/computer issue. You dealer will have to do more testing in that case.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    You can also get a free check of battery, alternator, and starter from some auto parts stores...eg. Autozone, Advance Auto.
  • I put the new battery in and the car starts up fine. I'm still heading to the garage tomorrow to get them to look at the electricals and test the old battery. One thing I noticed when I changed the battery was on the negative side of the battery, there was some sort of dried substance around the terminal area and it dripped down the side of the battery. The foam wrap, that covers the sides of the battery was also wet on the negative side telling me that whatever it is dripped down the side of the battery. I don't know anything about batteries, but this does not look normal... or perhaps this is how a car battery fails... I don't know.
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