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My new problem is a ticking noise on a cold start up, and a raw fuel smell. 55,000 miles now. I had the PCV replaced (not covered under warranty)... This clicking noise goes away about 60 seconds... Seems like it is on the passenger side by the wheel, under the hood. So the dealer could not verify the noise. I hope it is not LOW oil pressure. No codes or an oil light on. What do you all think?............
did you get your ticking issue fixed and how's the result? I have a 06 wagon 3.0L V6, similar problem as what you describled, ticking sound goes obvious when car is under load but can be easily coverd by road noise, I had to pull my car on my drive way with some degree of slope there and slowly push my gas pad to make it obvious without road noise, and ticking frequency correlates with engine RPM. my car had 50k miles already, not sure if it will still be under warranty. if you get this issue fixed and won't mind to share the experience, that will be great!
There are thicker rubber mounts for the purge valve that help absorb the vibration/sounds that come from the purge valve- in my case- the tech needed to actually shift the position of the mounts and the purge valve to eliminate the noise.
Send me your email and I will forward the TSB
Thanks
-Larry
By the way, how bad was your condition as of ticking sound, Mine sound more like very light 'da.. da..' and at first time I thought that was some type of radio noise and had to sit inside of cabine to hear it clearly (never tried to stand beside the engine since it's not noticable when engine is runing at idle) . had to push the gas pad to make it more frequent and more obvious around 1~2k RPM.
Thanks a lot!
It sounds like the same exact thing that I had. It was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] for the dealer and me as it was slight and hard to pin down- but the tech did a good job finding the TSB and resolving it after two trips- does not affect performance or the engine. Just bad design! Will send the TSB via PDF.
-Larry
I tried reproducing when at idle, I can hear it if I rev up slightly to 1000 rpm. if I increase the rpm, the tapping sound is gone. Is this normal of this engine, or should I be worried and take it in for service? I did notice on my oil change receipt from the dealer that they are using bulk 5w30 oil. The manual recommends 5w20 oil. Could the
thicker 5w30 oil be causing this issue?
crankshaft to the balancing shafts. And I mean no one, not the dealership the
engine machine shop or the local repear shops. Hopefully here I can get the information that I'm looking for. If anyone can help let me know.
Thanks
John
The first time this happened, it came back on by itself after 3 days. This time it went out about two weeks ago and never came back on. The dealer admitted that they didn't know what the problem was and had to call Mazda Tech Support for assistance.
The fix was to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and reset the electronics. They said the bluetooth is sometimes left in limbo and performing a reset by removing the power is the only way to get it back. This is just my opinion, but it sounds to me like their software has a memory leak somewhere and rebooting the electronics has the same effect as rebooting a computer. It works now.
From my 2007 manual:
Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2).
Repeated short-distance driving
Driving in dusty conditions
Driving with extended use of brakes
Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used
Driving on rough or muddy roads
Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates
They have not changed their vague wording, have they?
I'm following schedule 2 until the warranty ends, then I will go to 6 mo/5000 miles for oil changes. This is (or was) Ford's normal schedule for the same engine and I do fit under Ford's much clearer definition of "normal".
While I might agree that I do not want them to open up the engine, getting noises when accelerating with such a low mileage on the car is ridiculous.
The question is, what are my options now? Get a second opinion from an independent mechanic? Would Mazda replace a knocking/tapping engine under warranty even though it is only noisy and runs fine otherwise?
Or does it have to show a real malfunction before they do anything?
Any help or insight is appreciated.
Just went over 15,000 miles. Bought the car last October.
Ok, so I am officially done with my '07 M6 Wagon. Only 15k miles.... As I have mentioned I bought certified in late '07 with low mileage-------- in the last 6 months I have had the following pattern happen which no one can figure out:
1) Late November- turn car on---------- all engine and system lights come on and stay on. Turn off engine- Turn on Engine again and CEL comes on and stays on for about a day then goes off. Bring the car to dealer- they pull codes and replace the Cat. pipe.
2) Early March- same thing happens again. Bring to dealer, they pull codes. This time its the Transmission Control Module and the wiring harness
3) This past week; same thing. Bring to dealer. They havent told me what (if any codes) they pulled- but they did open a case with the Mazda Tech line as this is the 3rd time this has happened- they had them try a few things but havent explained yet what ( I am going to call tomorrow)- they gave me the car back and told me they are waiting for further instructions from Mazda Tech and that they are getting the Mazda Regional Rep involved.
I contacted Mazda myself and started a case with them- not sure if they will do anything; but would love for them to take this car back (they wont I am sure). I've got 2 more months of full warranty before just 6 year powertrain warranty kicks in. Also complained to the GM at Crystal Mazda in Greenbrook NJ- their service dept has been dilligent and top notch to this point and hope they can pull through.
This on top of the leaky CV boots and axle replacements last September....
Any thoughts?
I think I may trade this baby for a certified Subaru Outback or Forrester or Nissan Rogue
Thanks,
-Lg2207
Now the question, what do I do now with this information. Mazda mechanic said Mazda would not honor warranty if I am doing my own oil changes. I am thinking of using their oil simply as an engine flush, and then draining it the moment I get back from their service shop and replace it with a quality oil. However should I be worried about any long term effects to my car since I already drove it about 10,000 kilometers on their crappy oil. Is there a way for me to prove easily their oil is bad such as an analysis by a third party that can give me written confirmation that the oil they are using is no good. Then I can take them to small claims court or something.
As far as the oil is concerned, I've never heard it being an issue in terms of the tapping sound (unless there's no oil in the engine at all). Then again, my dealer uses Valvoline...
Have them check ALL the grounding cables and re "flash" the computer. I had all the lights come on and the trans banging in and out of gear. This solved my issue. Loose ground wire I think by the passenger front tire.
Side note this happened early in the morning with corn fields as far as the eye could see.... UFO.?
Any help is appreciated.
2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
- it mainly occurs on hot days when the car has been sitting for a few hours
- the key turns, dashboard lights light up and it just cranks
- i've had the battery, inhibitor switch and fuel pump replaced and the problem is still there
- it's an automatic and i've tried moving the gear shift from park to neutral and back to park with no luck
- i have to sit there and wait for 10 minutes or more and keep trying and then it will randomly start
my car is almost to the end of the warranty and mazda canada's response to me is it's up to the discretion of the dealership whether they'll continue to try and fix this at no charge even though this problem occurred within the warranty period.
This has happened to me and others on this board. My issue was with the safety mechanism that keeps the car from starting if the clutch is not engaged (or if the car is not in park for automatic transmissions).
I too threw a lot of money at this before we finally figured out that if the car would not start I could just take my foot off of the clutch and re engage it and the car would start. Of course it was out of warranty (mine's an '03).
Unfortunately, it sounds like your problem is a bit different in that the car actually cranks. But still - it sounds awfully familiar. Have you tried taking the key out, then shifting the gear shift?
I realize that I am probably no real help, here - but thought I would put in my .02.
i would like to requst some one asist me on folowing qustions.
am having madza6 model 2005, 117000km driven
i can hear the sound like two parts touching in the morning when am starting the car after long parking.i wont hear same sound after drive some time.
apart from there is little vibrating aswell not much but litle bit
i went to consult some local 2 garage guys
1 said , he needs to see the ac air compasure, and there might be in the engine mount sound,
2 guy told me that i have to replace drive belt.
am so confuse that whom to belive and not to.
can any one sort out my issue please
thanks
so very next day went and open engine mounts. all 3 are gone. all crcks.
replaced and now absolutly fine and smooth drive
Thanks
Mike