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These problems come and go. Last time, they replaced the battery cable saying it was corroded. My car worked great for 6 months / 7k miles, and almost to the day 6 months later, it's happening again. This is driving me nuts. Thankfully I don't live very far from work and have AAA.
I have a 2007 Mazda 6 SVI.
If you have an automatic transmission, you might try moving it from park to drive a couple of times to see if it helps.
Khana
Does anyone have reliable info on when or why the fluid should be changed/flushed?
Every car I've ever owned has had a recommendation for transmission maintenance in their owner's manual. What's up, Mazda???
:surprise: :confuse:
https://www.mymazda.com/MusaWeb/displayOwnersHome.action
I'm personally okay with a fluid and filter change at 30K but not a "flush"--that sounds like overkill and could cause more problems than it pretends to solve.
I'd always get the tranny serviced (most fluid with the filter and gasket). It doesn't flush out all fluid, but that's what might be overkill. It also means that it can't cause any trouble if something's brewing, and the tranny mechanic can see the magnetic pan and filter to check for early warning of any potential wear problems. Many dealers won't bother to "service" transmissions any longer in favor of higher-profit "flush". I don't go to the dealer for that. I've been taking my cars to a local, trusted tranny mechanic. Check your manual first for the correct fluid type. Most places only carry generic types (although yours may call for that, I'm not sure).
I read somewhere that some of the flushing machines filter the transmission fluid.
The problem is that sometimes these filters remove certain additives in the ATF fluid. This was especially the case with Honda's ATF. In my case, the flush was done on a Honda Accord with about 100K miles....by about 130K miles I started to have gear noise.
I much prefer to avoid ATF flush and just drain and refill. If you are really worried about the fluid that usually remains in AT, then just repeat the drain and refill.
Personally, I went with a Mazda 6i GT with manual transmission because I wanted to have no problems with AT. It seems that most customer complaints these days about cars are about the AT.
I just got off the phone with my local mechanic of 15 years who stays up on the latest info and he does NOT recommend a complete flush on the newer cars due to lots of new internal parts like one-way valves, electronics, etc. He says that the newer trannys can go 60K miles with just a simple drain and filter change (some now have two filters).
So guess what my plan is? I'll take a look at the fluid if I can and if it isn't too dark, I'll wait to drain it until near the 60K mark..
Thanks for all the feedback folks.. Just saved $219 at the dealer..!!
Even though it should still be covered under the 12 month replacement warranty, it doesn't seem like it is the head unit itself, but maybe something else. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
BTW, it makes no difference whether the CD is store bought or one that I burned; they all behave the same.
If you drain and refill the fluid regularly, you do not even need to worry about replacing any filter.
The procedure is very simple.
1. Buy a 4 litres of a good quality transmission fluid compatible with Mazda. I used Mobile Super multi ATF which clearly states it is compatible with Mazda Mercon V
2. Lift the car and remove the plastic bottom cover.
3. The transmission pan is black in color and has a drain plug that if I remember correctly uses an 8mm allen key.
4. Remove the drain plug and collect the fluid in a container that can measure the collected fluid level.
5. When the fluid stops flowing you would have collected about 3.5 liters.
6. Close the drain plug then refill with exact amount collected.
7. If you really want to over do it, then drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the steps.
What I usually do is drain and replace at 30K and then every summer after that, keep the oil clean and no one will ever need to open your transmission.
FYI, at 30K miles the fluid color was similar color to a fresh engine oil, that is it lost its red/pink color but was not too dirty,
loud whinning noise when accelerating on 1st gear, from 2nd gear forward it sounds fairly normal.
This is most noticable/louder if I switch the gear manually (from automatic) and accelerate to higher rev than automatic transmission would
Is this a problem with worn transmission gear or something? is it costly to repair?
it runs/shifts normal otherwise, but the whinning noise is annoying. anyone else have the problem?
This being said, there is a "fix" which the dealer offered to perform. It involves moving the microphone from its current location to the top of the A pillar. It involves a lot of rerouting of wires, taking apart the dash and headliner, etc. Because of all the parts that need to be taken apart and put back together, I am trying to avoid this.
I am due for a new cell phone soon and am hoping that the reception is better with the new phone.
PLEASE HELP... :mad: I do not want to have an accident because of low visibility!
Also, if you have a friend experience with tinkering with cars, ask to borrow their nose---a leaking heater core would have a distinct odor of coolant.
I am six months into my lease of a brand new 2011 Mazda6, Leased from and serviced in Michigan. The car has 11,5XX miles. I have been into the dealer more than four times. When I first test drove the car it had 8 Miles on it. When I came back a week later in had 78 miles on it. (Took a week, was not my first choice. was looking at the Mazda3) I only first test drove that particular car so I could get the feel for the manual trans. It was the only manual in the state at the time to test. The dealer was more than happy to put the starting mileage at 198 miles in the paper work. Odd?... Before the first oil change I had already been in for an alignment and the first electrical issue. The airbag, check engine, and seat belt light were flashing. I stopped and shut the car off immediately. When I got it to the dealer the couldn't duplicate the problem. They said if it happened to drive it in and don't shut the car off. So, they wanted my to drive the car with the chance of it having no working airbags? Anyway it did happen again, this time i got my phone and recorded it! It was at night after dealer hours so i couldn't drive it in. When I got it in the next morning the service man told me he didn't want to see the video. Then the next day they called to tell me no luck with duplicating the problem. I again told them that they were not interested in seeing the video I had captured of its electrical fit. The second time the lights the came on were, the check engine, air bag, 2 of the traction control lights and the washer fluid light. Both times there were no codes found for the check engine lights coming on. Just over a week later I was completely unaware of what was happening until I was pulled over and ticketed. The officer pulled me out of the car took me around the back. It was 11 o'clock at night, I was on my way home (in the country). I had no rear running lights aside from the license plate light. I was given a ticket that could amount to $500 in fines if it was not fixed in one week. I then made the third trip for the electrical fourth in total back to the dealer and left the car for three days and wasn't offered a loaner or help with a rental. I rented a car and they would not reimburse for it or the ticket. I had to replace the bulbs before the officer would let me drive home so he followed my down the road to a store that was open so I could get the bulbs. Then again the dealer could not make the bulbs burn out like before. I did however make another video with my phone having no tail lights before replacing the bulbs. The dealer again didn't want to see the video. I asked if it would help diagnose the problem to watch them and they said no.
I now have the two videos, service records for four visits, rental car bills, and of course now this ticket.
Suggestions?!?! ... PLEASE HELP!!!
2. start the Lemon Law action
3. Call Mazda customer service and insist on a factory technician coming to the dealership or you'll definitely start #2.
As a follow up to the different phone brands, I now have an HTC phone and the reception is even better than with the Nokia I had last November. It is almost like talking to someone just 5 feet away....! Clear as can be..!
If water or moisture gets in the housing, it would cause this.
Also, with the car running, what is the measured voltage at the battery? If it is much higher than 14 volts, you might have a problem with the voltage regulator and or alternator.
1) Rustproofing: Electronic - complete waste of time, spray it with something, inspected yearly
2) Change PCV Valve yourself or insist on it being changed because Mazda will never do it as it is not on their service schedule Ok after first 3-4 years, then do it every 2 years. I have 2 PCV in line
3) Auto Tranny Fluid is not lifetime, change it every 35,000 miles or sooner. An extra external tranny cooler is advisable. If Mazda says no, go to tranny shop!
4) Clean your MAF sensor and throttle body every 2-3 years
5) change brake fluid and power steering fluid every 3-4 years
6) change spark plugs 65,000 miles clean EGR valve
7) change ignition coils 100,000 miles
8) intake accordian tube before throttle body does leak after a while giving you problems
Every Tuesday 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET
Mazda does have a small discharge as you'll notice something flashing on your dash. 5 days is a long time without starting. Your battery should also be wrapped in insulation to keep the heat off and keep the cold off. I also installed a small 120 ma solar panel on mine (mounted to visor). Between the 2 it has been working great. I also suggest adding extra ground wires from the negative terminal of the battery to the following: engine block, car body, tranny (if automatic), throttle body. Mazda original wires are minimal.
How can that be?
While asking a woman at my office about her Nissan Altima 2.5 I mentioned the 2014 Mazda 6. She laughed and told me of her Husband’s Mazda that started rusting out a few years after they bought it. Now it has holes all over it.
I research Mazda's rusting on the web and it is wide spread across the model line and not just the old Protege's either. Read the reviews and find hundreds of owners who say Mazda did not fix the rust issues and they will never buy another one.
Mazda forums say to have your car rust proofed every year if you live in the salt belt.
Damn shame about the 2014 Mazda 6 as I would buy this car on every other merit.