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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    You could always take the alternator to an Advanced Auto or Autozone. They can test the alternator to see if it's functioning properly, at no charge. If it's not the alternator, and the new battery also loses it's charge, then you may have a draw from the electrical system.

    Chances are that the battery was the culprit, since alternators aren't a common problem with the 6, and batteries can last anywhere from 2-6 years, depending on the climate extremes and how much you drive. I replaced the battery in my '04 last summer after discovering that the OEM battery was barely holding a charge...
  • sennaf1sennaf1 Member Posts: 1
    want a good tire at a good price. no driving in snow. want a tire that is quiet and handles reasonably well.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Check out the General Exclaim UHP. Got these last year from the Tire Rack, there was a rebate, so a great price. They are summer ultra high performance tire. I have a set of Blizzak's for winter. I cannot make these squeal, great traction dry and wet.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I have a 2007 Mazda6. All the windows worked fine yesterday.

    Today when I wanted to put all the windows down a few inches, all but the front passenger window went down. Then when I wanted to put them up the rear ones would not move and they will not go further down either. Subsequently I found that the both the front windows will go down with the remote and I can also put them up and down by turning the key in the drivers door.

    So the driver's window works normally. The passenger window does not respond to either switch, but the motor definitely works as I can operate the window by using the key. The rear windows also do not respond to either the switch by the driver or the switches by each window.

    I find it hard to believe that all 6 of these switches have failed simultaneously. Any ideas?
    :confuse:
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Have you checked the fuses? Not sure if they can affect the switch operation.

    IIRC, if the battery has been disconnected, I think the windows need to be reprogrammed for the auto-down w/remote feature. Not sure if/how they could have lost power, but maybe they need to be reprogrammed?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    edited May 2010
    There is only one fuse for windows, so it would not be that since the driver's window works normally, including auto down. (checked it anyway and it is fine)

    I checked that reprogramming procedure but the first step is to lower the window and the ones that don't work don't work at all. Plus rear ones don't have that feature anyway.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    You have a bad master switch in the driver's door. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the contacts, but, I would recommend you replace it with a new one.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Actually, after taking it in to a local shop, I just found out it was the lock out switch on the driver's arm rest. I must have bumped it. :blush:

    I had even meant to check that...but then I had also been mistakenly thinking that would only affect the two rear windows.
  • didi4didi4 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 mazda6 i and my engine light came on and it wouldnt keep a charge. i put new battery and new alternator, nothing work so i told it to mazda they told me i needed a pcm replaced. i was charged $2073 to replace my pcm and after getting my car back my air bag light is now on and d engine light is still on so they say i now need a pcv hose and airbag control unit which will cost me $1600 more. do and one have a comment please.
  • jmagnanjmagnan Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I went to Auto zone because my car wouldn't start & I thought it was the battery. When I had him test the battery he found out that it was my alternator. I had my neighbor, who works on cars, change my alternator. I jumped the battery & drove it to his house. He changed the alternator with no problems, but it would not start. The battery was not picking up a charge, so I went & purchased a new one thinking that would do the trick. Well it still didn't start after that. Do you think that something may have triggered a problem with the computer & the computer may need to be reprogrammed to clear up the low battery voltage? Any insight you can give will be appreciated! Thanks
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I want to change the transmission fluid on my 2009 Mazda6, it is getting close to 30,000 miles and the fluid lost its pink color. It is currently light brown.
    1. Which transmission fluid should I use.
    2. Does this transmission have a drain plug like most Japanese transmissions that is easily accessible? any help with the location of the drain plug is appreciated.
  • tatersacktatersack Member Posts: 1
    I just reached 60,000 miles on my 2007 Mazda 6. Recently my car's clock has started jumping forward a few minutes each time I turn off the car and leave it for a while. Each morning when I wake up to go to work it has hopped up 30 minutes past the actual time.. By the time I get out to lunch it's added another 15 minutes, and by the time I go home it's added another 15 minutes. I've stopped resetting it at this point and over the past few days it has hopped up close to four hours. I had my battery checked twice and it is fine. I checked all the fuses (just in case) and they are fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? Is it a computer problem?
  • donna50donna50 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone ever had this happen to them? This is my first summer with this car, and since I started running the AC I've noticed the rug on the passenger side getting wet, and have actually heard water sloshing/gurgling around when I go around corners and stop the car! I've also seen the water dripping from directly behind my glove compartment. I've been told this is probably debris from the outside that clogged the drain from the AC and I could probably clear it myself. I would like to note that my car does not overheat with the AC on, and the AC is running nice and cold. Anyone? :confuse:
  • bear26bear26 Member Posts: 12
    Hi, I noticed this past weekend when I started my car, and the A/C was already set to on, there was a grinding noise coming from the engine area. It lasted for about 2-3seconds and then a rotten egg smell came from the vents for about a minute. This happened 3 times and it seemed to occur after my car had sat for awhile, primarily starting it the next morning.

    Mazda looked at it and said they couldn't find anything. They also said that it is a known issue that at times, if the RPM's are at a certain point, the compressor clutch can get caught and make that noise.

    Any other ideas?
  • cculleycculley Member Posts: 2
    yes it happened to me. I have a 2006 Mazda6 I bought new. Probably 2 years after I had it I heard the sloshing and dripping. I took it to the dealer and they said dirt or something was blocking the outlet , so the water was not dripping outside, it was dripping inside. It was under warranty and they fixed it for free.
  • al5000al5000 Member Posts: 12
    almost certainly clogged drain hose.
  • aaron1218aaron1218 Member Posts: 2
    from 1/8th to one quarter of a tank my mazda 6 starts to sputter when i accelerate. After filling the tank the problem goes away, how many gallons does a normal mazda 6 tank fill? has anyone ever had this problem? is it fuel injection or dirty residue in the tank? ive had this car for 4 years its has 82,000 miles and has just started happening
  • aaron1218aaron1218 Member Posts: 2
    anybody out there?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Hi Aaron - this isn't a chat, but a message board, meaning responses aren't real-time. If you wait for awhile, someone will likely come along and have ideas for you.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    The 2006 version has an 18 gallon tank.

    Have not had this problem myself, but my 2007 has only 29K mi.
  • abirdabird Member Posts: 7
    I would suspect the fuel filter.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    I have basically the same problem with our 2005 V-6 5 speed, now a 92K. Go back on this forum or perhaps the one on engine problems to see the discussion. It will also happen if I take a long corner at a steady speed, like an entrance ramp. Haven't done anything about it yet, just fill up at 1/4 tank. Probably the filter or perhaps the evaporation canister. I am going to do a driver's school at Road America the end of August, so probably should get this fixed. Don't want to loose power around the carosuel.
  • gpkozmpgpkozmp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Mazda 6, 2.3L with a manual transmission. Lately I have been having trouble with the clutch pedal sticking and it wasn't so bad. However now it is sticking all the time and in order to get it back out I have to put my foot behind it and pull it forward. Also when I am pushing it in I hear a click and I can feel it in my foot. I am not sure what this is but lately it is getting harder to put the car in 1st geat. I am wondering: Is my clutch about to go out? Has anybody else had this problem? Could anybody else help me out? Would my best bet be to take it in to a mechanic for them to tell me what is wrong with it?

    Another thing I have had happen is my check engine light is on. I went to checker auto store and had them hook up their little machine and it came back with an error code of 00128, which is the "coolant thermometer" I am wondering if anybody has had to replace their's and if they have a detailed diagram or something I can look at to find this part. Any help is Greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance. The best way to advise me to by email so please do not hesitate. gpkozmp02@yahoo.com. Thank you again.
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    My guess is the clutch cylinder. When my '05 was new it had overly soft and late clutch engagement and a detent point in the travel. The dealer replaced the cylinder and the clutch feel changed dramatically. Your situation seems very similar.
  • gpkozmpgpkozmp Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your help I will have them look into it cause I really want to get it fixed before something major goes back. If you don't mind was it expensive to fix?
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    It was replaced under warranty within the first month, so I didn't pay anything.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    I have a 2010 Mazda 6 V6, S Touring Plus. When the weather gets hot, say 85 degrees plus, and I raise the front windows with the automatic windows up feature, both windows go up, but as soon as they reach the closed position, they come back down to about half way. It appears there is some sort of sensor not working right. Anybody got any ideas? I will of course take it to my dealer, but I always appreciate opinions on this forum. The only way I can get them up, is to use the pull up the window switch a bit at a time, then it closes.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    It does sound like a sensor issue, and it's something to do with the rollback feature that keeps fingers and hands from pinching in the window. Double-check the track and window-stripping to make sure that there's nothing in the way within the window track, but it does sound like a sensor malfunction.
  • ronsteffronsteff Member Posts: 6
    i have a 2110 mazda6 now the horn does not sound when i lock the doors with the keyless anyone have a clue
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Make sure the trunk and hood are tightly latched as well, the horn won't sound if the trunk is ajar...
  • bear26bear26 Member Posts: 12
    2010 Mazda 6. I've noticed since purchase that whenever I put my windows down, they come back up with "film" on the inside of them. I'm constantly cleaning them as this drives me nuts.

    I've also noticed that when it's raining out, or when it has been raining out, when I put my drivers window down, it will come up covered in drops on the inside of the window. This only appears to have for the drivers side.

    This isn't just a matter of a lil water getting in the seal, but the whole window is covered like it had been sitting in water. This then of course makes visibility null.

    I'm taking it to Mazda but wonder if anyone else has seen this.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Very odd on a new car. I wonder if the factory forgot to put the vapor barrier in the door panel, or if someone tore it out while working on something prior to delivery. Of course, replacing the top seal (called a squeegee) would seem like a good idea. I don't have a photo of your car in front of me, but I wonder if the outside mirror base gasket is also leaking. That could let a ton of water in.
  • zoomzoom076zoomzoom076 Member Posts: 1
    I also had a strange incident with my 07 Mazda 6 windows over the summer.

    I locked up the car as usual using the remote. When I left it, I am 100% positive that the windows were not rolled down because it was raining that night.

    The next day, I was shocked to find my car with both the passanger and driver's side window rolled all the way down, not to mention the soaked seats. :(

    Its really an unsolved mystery to me how this happened. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd change out the battery in your remote for starters.
  • lrotalrota Member Posts: 18
    not sure if 07 has this feature....but on my 2009 if I double click and hold the unlock on remote, it will open the driver and passenger window. Perhaps the button was activated by accident?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yes the '07 has that feature to roll the two front windows down with the remote.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited September 2010
    That's called (I think) the "vent" feature and you can have that programmed in or out I believe.

    If this keeps happening, I'd have the dealer get rid of that option with a re-program...or maybe the owner's manual tells you how to do that yourself.
  • vic_pevic_pe Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    Just recently got a pre-owned 06 GT V6 (Canadian trim), 6AT, hatchback, with only about 30K miles on it (48500KM to be precise), from a dealer. The inspections were done by an independent mechanic that the dealer chose and the inspection sheet was provided as well.

    Everything seemed fine until today when I was stopped at a red light, and I believe I put it into Neutral or just held down the brakes, when it turned green and I pressed the accelerator pedal, it was not doing anything at all. Like, fully depressed and it felt like an empty pump, no resistance. Then tried the brake pedal and it felt stiff and almost impossible to use, and finally the steering was out as well. It's like the power assist went off and throttle cut off. Thankfully no one was behind me. I turned the car off and then on immediately, and everything was alright.

    This has me worried though, and I'm not sure if I should discount it as a one off issue or take it in to Mazda. Still got a year left on the 5-year powertrain warranty and I believe this issue may be linked to something in there. I hope.

    Anyways, hope to hear any suggestions!

    Thanks in advance.

    Vic
  • 1cartrouble21cartrouble2 Member Posts: 1
    I posted something similar last night on my daughter's Mazda6. It sputters/skips bad and now she has bad exhaust spell inside the car! When it first started skipping, the mechanic (not Mazda dealership) said it was the coils. He changed out; did fine for a while, but weeks later started doing it again. Found out then, they changed the wrong coils! Changed the right ones, but later doing it again. I think it's more like a fuel filter/pump problem. Now with the bad exhaust smell, I'm wondering if it's that and more!
  • jenkirk75jenkirk75 Member Posts: 1
    i have an 03 mazda6 with the check engine light that stays on. sometimes it chokes down immediately after starting it, or when i am stopped at a light unless i give it some gas. it cranks back up as soon as i put it in park and turn the key. i took it to a shop with a diagnostic computer and they said that i need to replace to computer. however, finding a new computer has proven to be a difficult task, i heard you may be able to reset the computer. any advice?
  • dbs9059dbs9059 Member Posts: 1
    Not happy at all with my 2009 Mazda 6, the car has had problems with a clunking noise when turning, began at 8,000 miles, at 12,000 dealer replace the steering wheel column, continued to have issues, filed a complaint with BBB , which I did not win anything. Have been continually told by Mazda in Californina this a result of too many miles on my car. I drive almost 20,000 a year for work. Now I have almost 59,000 still have steering wheel colums and the last problem the car would not go in reverse or drive. Now my car is at the dealer for ..... a NEW TRANSMISSION
    I have NEVER had a car with so many issues, should have went back to Toyota, traded my 2002 Camry with 200,000 miles and had no problems. Very dissapointed with Mazda customer service.
  • ncmazda6ncmazda6 Member Posts: 8
    wow I'm sorry to hear about your 2009 mazda6......I have 73,000 miles on my 2009 mazda6 touring and the only problem that I've had was my fuel gauge would sometime stop work around the full mark
  • jjboy83jjboy83 Member Posts: 2
    that spuddering thing i had that happen to me before. When i came back from deployment i was excited to get in my car for the first time in over a year. Once i was driving back up to base i started to notice that when it was in 5th gear it was starting to spudder and give me feedback from the pedals, then when i was sitting stationary it would just u could see the rpm going close to 2000. I took it too a mechanic and they switched out the coils and said it would be fine. then a month or so later it did it again took it back to them they have no idea, reset my computer and tell me to come back if it keeps doing it. I was unsatisified about it but i left. Once it started doing it again and the check engine like came back on i went back there they charged me a 80 diag. fee and replaced my gas cap. So bascially they charged my 250 to fix something that wasnt wrong with the car and another 100 bucks for a $20 gas cap. I let this piece of crap hawaiin get an earful even made two people walk out. took my car to checkers talked to one of those guys and it turned out it was the spark plug. It was burnt to toast why beacuse i was running 89 gas through it. when i went back to 87 everything was ok. but im sure if i kept using the 89 im sure my fuel pump would be as messed up as me.
  • jjboy83jjboy83 Member Posts: 2
    Just recently i replaced my rotors and brake pads in my mazda6 06. It was a bit of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] replaceing the rotors cause of those gay little screws. once i got them out it was really simple. but my problem is that my front right wheel i hear nothing but screeching and scrathing from it. When i turn ecspeacially sometimes when i accelerate but it doesnt happen all the time some times your hear nothing, and other times its all you can hear. but it not a constant sound its like theres a huge scratch on the rotor and when the wheel spins you can hear it make that sound at certain spots. what do i do
  • mazda6dudemazda6dude Member Posts: 283
    I have a 2009 Mazda6 i Touring edition with the 2.5 Liter, 4 cylinder, 5 speed automatic. After turning on the engine and onces its warmed up, there is a constant chirping/squealing sounds coming from the engine. I opened the hood and the sounds seems to be coming from where the belt is located.

    Any idea what the problem could be and how much will it cost to be fixed? It has 25,000 miles on it.

    Feedback and Opinions would be greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Aren't you still under warranty?
  • mazda6dudemazda6dude Member Posts: 283
    I am still under warranty. Thanks.
  • masterc9masterc9 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 mazda 6 s with 3.0 v6. i have the same issue. i have only had the rig for 6 months and it has 75000 miles on it. between 1/8 and 1/4 it sputters and goes into a shut down mode. it will idle but will not run. i can nurse it to a filling station and fill it up and the problem dissipates. i have been told it was a fuel pump, fuel filter and so on. the dealer informs me i will have to remove the tank and replace pump at a cost of 600.00. i prefer to just fill it up for know. any one else have a placeable solution.
  • bonbon2bonbon2 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2009 mazda 6 i Grand Touring and am experiencing similar problem as you. i keep hearing beeping noise coming from the engine. i took it to the dealer last week, they said could find nothing wrong with it. drove it couldnt hear anything . they suspected i was hearing a/c compressor cycling. well thats wrong because i havent had a/c on or defroster and its still doing it. i just documented it on videotape. anyone know what this is? any comments would be helpful . this is driving me crazy! i also have a little over 25k miles.
  • masterc9masterc9 Member Posts: 2
    my rig does not make any noise but when it gets between 1/8 and 1/4 tank of fuel it acts like it is running out of fuel. when you go down hill it will run witch indicates it is a fuel pump issue. the dealer said it would cost 600.00 dollars to repair fuel pump. i think i will just keep it above 1/4 tank and it runs fine. if any one comes to a solution maybe mazda will listen ha ha ha ha ..
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