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Thanks for your reply. The noise comes as soon as break and is not there if I reverse and do not break.
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:GEAR POSITION INDICATION (PRNDL)
Details: ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, THE NUT THAT ATTACHES THE TRANSMISSION GEAR SELECTOR SHAFT TO THE CONTROL VALVE LEVER IN THE TRANSMISSION MAY NOT BE ADEQUATELY TIGHTENED. THIS COULD RESULT IN THE TRANSMISSION NOT ACTUALLY BEING IN THE GEAR INDICATED BY THE GEAR SELECTOR LEVER. IN ADDITION, THE TRANSMISSION POSITION DISPLAY IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL MAY NOT BE ON OR MAY BE INCORRECT.
Consequence: IF THE GEAR DISPLAYED IS DIFFERENT FROM THE GEAR ENGAGED, THIS COULD RESULT IN UNEXPECTED VEHICLE MOVEMENT AND A CRASH.
Corrective Action: DEALERS WILL CHECK THE AFFECTED NUT IN THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER LINKAGE, AND TIGHTEN IT IF NECESSARY. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN APRIL 15, 2003. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.
Units Potentially Affected: 128
Recall Initiated By: MFR
Date added to NHTSA datbase: 04/02/2003
-----------------------
NHTSA Recall Campaign Number: 03V455000
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Details: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.
Consequence: THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Corrective Action: DEALERS WILL REPLACE T
HE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
Units Potentially Affected: 630000
Recall Initiated By: MFR
Date added to NHTSA datbase: 11/19/2003
--------------------
NHTSA Recall Campaign Number: 05V319000
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:ALTERNATOR/GENERATOR/REGULATOR
Details: ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THAT A WIRE BREAKING INSIDE THE ALTERNATOR COULD STOP THE BATTERY FROM CHARGING.
Consequence: IF THIS HAPPENS, THE CHARGER WARNING AND BRAKE WARNING LAMPS WILL IMMEDIATELY COME ON AND THE BATTERY WILL BEGIN TO DISCHARGE. AFTER A SHORT TIME, THE ENGINE WILL GO INTO A "FALL SAFE" CONDITION WHICH WILL LIMIT VEHICLE SPEED. THE ENGINE WILL STOP RUNNING WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Corrective Action: DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR WITH A NEW VERSION WHICH HAS BEEN MODIFIED TO PREVENT MOVEMENT OF THE COIL. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 1, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.
Units Potentially Affected: 125466
Recall Initiated By: ODI
Date added to NHTSA datbase: 07/14/2005
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Be sure you have an intelligent service foreman...remember, the service writers are come and go people...just "jobs" and know less about the Murano than most owners. Before you pay $5,900 for a new transmission, be certain that it is not a "simple" electrical glitch...as in the TPS circit.
Appreciate feedback from smart guys like terry and easym and some of the other regulars on your problem...Dr. John..CA
Not to be cynical, but if your dealer is giving you a super tradein on the "broken transmission" 03, you've got to wonder if it wasn't the TPS or some simple problem...as $5,900 to fix it would destroy the normal trade-in value...just a thought.
I spent several hours looking at the Hyundai Santa Fe posts on Edmunds...enthusiastic owners, but Consumer Reports 2006 Car Review Issue gives it poor marks for gas mileage, handling, reliability and resale. The newest 2007 model, just coming out, is not reviewed but obviously those Koreans are getting very good at making cars.. JB
Will they fit...
Any issues....
Benefits...
Outcome....
Recommendations...
Marty
I haven't done 20" but have put on smaller than stock to accommodate snow tires. I used non-stock wheels and had to use spacers on the hub to move the wheels out to avoid rubbing/hitting the disk mechanism. know in advance that they will be heavier-decreased mileage and the size difference will make your speedometer readout inaccurate. I don't know if +/- or by how much. Good luck.
Frank
Thanks...
Smaller is easy....
I do know all the pit falls of rim weight, Overall diameter,offset, and speedomater readout..
The answer to your question is if the new tire is more than 3% larger diameter than the original tire it will affect speedo...
If you need to know how to calculate overall diameter of a tire....
murano original tire 235/65/18
235 is the width of the tire in MM milimeter
(divide by 25.4) to find width in inches
235 divide by 25.4 = 9.25 In wide
Height of tire
width of tire multiplied by % aspect ratio (65 series) = .65
235 divide by .65 = 152.75 MM
Convert to inches by dividing by 25.4
152.75 div by 25.4 = 6.01 inches
That represent top of rim to top of tire
Add 6.01 + 6.01 (other idewall of tire + rime width (18) =
Overall diameter of tire and rim
6.01 + 6.01 + 18 = 30.02 inch tall tire
If your new tire are 3% percent smaller or smaller than 29.12 inches tall than you are affecting speedo and camber caster....
THis formula works for all tires...
Good luck
Thanks for writing..
Marty :shades:
Also when I drive it for the first 100 yards and brake, I hear a sort of muffled noise from the brakes and this goes away as well. It seems that the brakes need to be warmed up before these little nuances go away.
I called Nissan and they wanted $190 for a new light. I looked online and some people will sell it new for about $150. Thank god for ebay, ended up getting a new one for $79.
I cannot believe the prices nissan wanted for the rear light.
Now I have to figure out how to install it. Hmmmm
Also, I am having the pleasure of replacing a CV boot due to a leaking oil casing (something like that) which the dealer did not catch and fortunately my regular indep. repair crew did so I am fixing not just a symptom but the problem as well. Then I am also having to replace the RT side engine mount and the lower control arms, all to the tune of $1700 where the dealer wanted $2300 for the same repairs.
Hmm. Should I get the 07?
I have had probs with my 03 SL AWD and acceleration. I have seen comments here regarding TPS and complete CVT replacement. Approx 16 months ago, had the idle "relearned" when the vehicle would hesitate slightly upon acceleration, no major incidents to note. Then actually had a problem with the "drive by wire" fixed under warranty.
Now, have had probs with the vehicle just not going at all. Was actually at the Bristol Motor Speedway for holiday event over the weekend and lost all ability to move going up a ramp into the speedway (after start and stop traffic for approx 1.5 hrs). My MO actually rolled back toward the car behind me. I tried putting it into D, S, and L with no movement. I had to put one foot on the brake and floor the gas until I could feel it "catch" and begin to move.
I dropped my MO at the dealer today to do a 90,000 mile service (I have had it since Xmas 2002 and has been great other than what I said here---first one purchased from that dealer) and they pulled a Code P0860 Valve Body Failure. They can fix for approx $1500 for parts and labor.
Anyone able to shed light on a Code 0860???
Turn off the ignition key. Wait one minute...let the dust settle and the computer or whatever "reset". Then try it again.
This has worked for MOST everyone with TPS failure...yes, there will be "service" lights on, but the vehicle will perform normally, possibly forever..but we all got our TPS replaced.
Obviously, if this fails, you have more than just a "simple electronic failure"....(see, I told you a hundred posts ago, these new cars are TOO darned complicated). But try to find a 1951 Chevy made in 2006. JB
And your more likely to stop breathing by the time Nissan gets back to you. I don't know if you have a "Lemon Law" in your state or how long you've had the vehicle but bring it in 3 times for this repair. Make sure the problem is noted on each service write up and file for a car replacement under your state's lemon law. I guarantee you will then get a response from Nissan and possibly the car will be replaced also.
Frank
The vibration is most noticable at certain speed range, e.g. when I cruise at 60 mp, then start accelerate hard, there is noticable steering wheel vibration. The more abrupt I accelerate, the more noticable it is.
When I cruise at 70mph, then accelerate, it's fine.
If I accelerate smoothly from 0-70mph, it's fine.
IS THIS AN ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION?? or suspension? anyone has similar issue? The fact it's more noticable at certain speed makes me worried it's an transmission issue - hope I don't need to pay 6k for a new tranny!!
If a rim weight has fallen off....
It will cause the sort of issue you are decribing....
Best/Cheapest way to diagnose is have said tire rebalanced by a profession shop (hi speed Balance)...to determine if that is the issue...
The fact that the issue is intermittant and its not constant is a good sign....
Start with the rebalance first...
Marty :shades:
thanks
I was also told at an aother autoshop, the motor mount has gone bad, they showed me how the engine was moving up and down too much at idle, the cost to repair was about $300 (150 for part 120 for labor plus tax). Could this have caused the steering wheel vibration as well, since it only happens when I accelerate at certain speed, most noticably at higher speed though
The way it was explained to me by the service rep is that it's behind the glove box. MT the glove box and dismount from the back and also the R (passenger) side. I looked at it and decided the $25 (?) labor charge was worth it. If I had more time and a good shop manual I'd take a wack at it. Why it was put there????
Frank
Once I changed it, the Mo was fairly easy as well....it will take no more than thirty minutes..just make sure you bring a small can or cup to keep track of the screws/washers and all of that.
The instructions for replacement are in the Owners Manual.
We just put Yokohama YK520 tires on the SE....it made a huge difference and don't feel that the dry pavement performance feel was diminished. We do have VDC system, and I found it much more difficult to do crazy things while stomping on it pretty agressively after 3-4 inches of snow a few weeks ago.
Difficult tires to find....my local Discount Tire store ordered them, but I couldn't find them on their web site. Price ~ $160/tire (more than the Eagle LS but well worth it, I think).
I hope someone will find this info useful. Anyone else have good success with a different tire?
The cover is white plastic about 11/2"x 6"-7" long W/ two push to open tabs, and sits on top of the fan, but difficult to get to W/O removing the box. Move the seat back for work room. The black hinge pins have a lever on them for ease of removal. I used a thin bladed screw driver to pry the pins out. The ends have split ends to keep them in place. With pins out turn the box to get the guide knobs out of there slots. A thin black cord that operates the light is nor very strong so do not let the box hang ,support it with something in order not to pull it loose from the right side of the box. If it pulls out I see its re-connecting will be very difficult. My filter after 38,000 miles was loaded W/ a lot of dirt. Since it is so easy to get to I tapped it and used air to remove the dirt, until I get around to buying a new one. Its really flimsy so be careful.
My dealer called me on this week on a service bulletin that just came out on the brakes.
It is the front brakes that squeek not the rear.
They removed pads, found totors glazed and Puds having build up of Brake dust. Resurfaced front rotors cleaned all hardware.
So far no noise!
Can't believe yet another RECALL on the 2005 Murano! Has anyone gotten this steering wheel lock recall completed yet? Any tips? Looks like it is specific for those with intelligent key. Not so intelligent, I guess!
Thanks in advance!
a littany of problems: doors won't close, poor mileage, noisy interior, faulty electronics, radio failures, windshield wiper failure, won't shift..stuck in park, and on and on. I wonder at these comments, and now that our Muranos are down to occasional TPS and CVT failures, I wonder if we don't have (looking also at Toyota/Honda SUV blogs) as good a model as there is...somebody tell me if I am wrong. And, caveat: if you keep your car past warranty, I don't care which brand you own..a modern hunk of electronic stuff banging over today's highways...needs an extended warranty. I did the research..and am still in Nissan's corner and will keep our 2005 when the lease runs out in 18 months, unless it really "turns on me". John B from Twain Harte.
'I" m retired and have plenty of time.
How can a charger that works in every car on the planet, not work in the Murano?
Also, my remote charger in the center console is not working. It's a nusiance to find this out on a trip when our granddaughter needed to plug in her DVD player...It's frustrating to read that Nissan knows about these problems but can't seem to fix them permanently.
Has anyone else had to replace the plate which covers part of the exhaust system in the front underside of the vehicle? I found out the hard way that it rides low and if you inadvertantly bump a parking lot divider or hot a really deep, unexpected pothole, it cracks and costs $150 to replace. I am on my third replacement and am a cautious driver in this regard...aaaarrrrghh!