Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Brakes & Tires - Wearing out Quickly?
al_2003
Member Posts: 26
Hi...I have a 2001 ML320. It has 32000 miles on it, and I am ready to put my SECOND set of front brakes, my first set of rear brakes, and 4 new tires! The car is usually on the freeways and is never abused. Is this normal for this car? Do others have similar experiences?
Thanks!
Al
Thanks!
Al
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
The brake pad wear frequency is about average for what I'm seeing on the MLs and average for most full-size SUVs.
As far as tires go, if the alignment is kept in spec, and they are at the correct pressure and rotated on a regular basis they should last a good long time. Zueslewis is correct also, factory rubber is junk!! I only got 38K out of my factory meats, and trust me they were toasted when I replaced them.
And, yes, a two foot driver will go through brakes like nothing else.
Or..could there be a teenage driver?
My dad used to wonder why his rear tires and brakes didn't last long...:)
I'm not saying EVERY OE tire is world-class but the direct opposite is just as false.
I'd love to know what criteria is being used to judge whether an OE tire is "junk". I'd also like to know exactly how you guys determine what a "non-junk" tire is.
I also think that if brakes front AND rear, AND tires are wearing out quickly the driver is the most likely cause. This is exactly what happens to taxi cabs, for instance.
Having also worked in service in the car business, I've seen more than my share of tire issues with OEM tires and never saw that level of problems with tires purchased as a consumer's second or third set.
It's just my opinion, but knowing that specs are different for OEM vs "storebought" tires, there's enough of a difference to say there's a difference.
They still have half of their tread left.
I have noticed just recently that wet weather traction has slipped a bit.
Still, they are hardly junk!
If not, then surely some OEM tires are just as good as the successive sets of tires, for makes and models that bother to put decent tires on new cars.
The SUV tire issue is a separate one - regardless of how off-pavement worthy an SUV may be, it is certainly true that most of the manufacturers choose tires for these vehicles based solely on cost and how smooth and comfy the ride will be, without a whit of concern for snow or off-pavement traction and use.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You'll notice that with tires like the Long Trail T/A, regular stores don't have them in stock - you have to order to replace 1 or 2. BFG/Michelin knows they can't compete with the other brand's tires in that segment, so why market them as retail units?
Some tire models are developed in close concert with the automaker as they have specific tire needs for a particular car. For example, the Goodyear Eagle GA was developed for the Cadillac Allante and Buick Reatta. IIRC, the Eagle GA was the first speed rated touring tire.
The Bridgestone RE92 is similar in that Bridgestone positions it as the tire they want to sell to the automakers. Look carefully and you will see the RE92 is sold in a huge variety of sizes and in multiple speed ratings to meet the various needs of the automaker.
I find it extremely hard to believe that a tire maker like Michelin for example produces a cheapo price point tire model for the automakers and an expensive top quality tire model for the aftermarket. Tires like the Energy MXV4 Plus or the Cross Terrain are two of the best tires made in the industry in terms of quality and consistency. The notion that Michelin makes a cut rate version and a top notch version is very very hard to swallow.
While OEM tires are available as replcements, they usually aren't in the limelight of the comapny's marketing strategy. The BFG Long Trail T/A, for instance, was never in a national ad. It was an OEM tire, and the All-Terrain T/A, the Trail T/A and Mud-Terrain T/A were the advertised models.
Then look at the same tire, and I believe you will find the one at the tire rack or your local Dunlop dealer has something like a 340 treadwear rating. (Of course you won't find the 5000M there, you just have to go with the standard 5000)
I was looking at these, and IIRC, the factory rubber installed by Mazda had the lower treadwear ratings.
Or I could just be too tired (no pun intended) to recall correctly.
TB
Thanks for any feedback.
Vehicle manufacturers TELL the tire manufacturers what they want. In one case the list of specs is 2 pages long.
Among these specs is one for rolling resistance, and one of the ways to get rolling resistance is to sacrifice tread wear.
Another way is to lighten the tire. Having a tire with the minimum of material can cause molding problems in the form of cracks and the mold not being properly filled out.
Typically a vehicle manufacturer insists that the OE tire be available in the market place when the vehicle is introduced. What sometimes happens is that tires are shipped gratis to major tire dealers, and payment is due as they are sold. This means that an OE tire will be available , but not necessarily, readily available.
Hope this helps.
Changing from a V rated 180 OEM tire to a 300-400 T rated tire can easily lengthen stopping distances by 20-30 feet [70 to zero]. Even Worse in rain, same with handling which might decline by 3-5% or more.
The other item is manufactures know that the majority of inexpensive tires are less than safe after 20,000 miles [they assume worst case heating and driver abuse], so they want the ones they supplied to be worn and off the car they built to shift the burden to the owner.
This is not necessarily the case with a premium material tire like oem Michelin especially in V rated and above.
Ever notice that some 2002 cars take 215 feet to stop from 70 mph and some stop in 153 feet.....tire compound and weight on tires is the primary factor........as most brakes will lock the wheels without ABS on a single stop. TIRES!
FWIW, I got 30K from a set of Dunlop SP5000's on that Buick. I retired them at 3/32nds of pretty even tread left.
TB
Heat and ozone attack the rubber compound turning it progressively harder and harder [the vulcanization continues].......You should buy a tire that will last 24 months with your type of driving.......for maximum safety and performance.
Generally if 2/32" is legal limit something like 4-5/32" would the the point where a prudent owner would change.
Since tires are the most critical component on the car!
By the way tires are only tested for 8,000 miles then the life is extrapolated based on what happens in the test period.
Many tires on heavy cars are marginally overloaded due to low inflation....internal damage is checkable by xraying them or a sudden change in the amount/position of balance weighs but most owners don't get them precision balanced every 90 days so by the time you feel a problem it is too late!
Whenever you see a rearend wreck think what a better tire with just 5%-10% better friction would have saved.......5,10,15 foot better stopping distance soft vs hard.
Unless you pony up for mega-dollar 80,000 miles Michelins, I wouldn't consider any cheaper 80,000 mile tire as being more safe or handling better.
If you're an old dude with a Park Avenue who never drives over 40, then the 80,000 milers are for you.
Me, I want a tire that will help me brake when I want and won't let go when I make it turn.
Apart from that, I have always replaced OEM with Michelins - I am a believer. They are usually quieter and always have better traction, in my experience. Of course, they also cost more, so I guess you still can't have your cake AND eat it too.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Cheapo single ply sidewalls [designed for low rolling resistance- better fuel economy] are accidents waiting to happen as are the newer 44 and 51 psi designs......these ballon like tires have little or no reserve in sidewall impacts.
Thank goodness Michelin uses a 77% stronger polyester material [for its thickness] than do cheaper brands.
Michelin trades off a little [not too much]traction for strength, roundness, and quietness!
Thank you