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What Wheel Drive?
This discussion was one of the more recent active ones:
AWD vs FWD with VSC + Traction Control
And for more than you may have wanted to know, you could start at the first post in Toyota 4WD systems explained.
After you decide which is best for you, then we'll talk about tires, LOL.
Steve, Host
What you really should be concerned about is ice & well packed snow.
I try to run summer tires on my vehicles but also have snowchains at the ready if the need arises.
NOTHING beats a set of snowchains for getting around in typical wintertime conditions in the mountain pass areas of WA, OR, ID, MT.
DVD. How does one know if they have the most recent maps?
JoelF
http://www.denso.com.au/dw/satnav/satnav_faq.htm
The absolutely correct one.
Modern day cars are shipped from the factory with only rudimentary "tutoring".
All of the engine fuel mixture and performance parameters are loaded into their respective ECU (ROM?) memory tables as preliminary approximations.
For instance, my 1993 Ford Ranger with an I4 has an idle air bypass solenoid that is used to provide a linear function. As time goes by the engine ECU "learns" how to correctly pulse width modulate the idle bypass solenoid so that the oxygen sensor in the exhaust path indicates no unburned oxygen.
If you disconnect and reconnect the battery to go back to the factory approximation settings the I4 does not pass the WA idle emissions test. Drive it around for two days and the engine ECU "learns", deterministically, what pulse width modulation values to apply to the idle bypass solenoid under the engine various operating parameters, engine temperature, inlet air temperature, and absolute pressure.
I would guess that many more modern cars operate in the same way, all the tables and parameters for approximately correct operation are loaded at the factory and those parameters are then continuously updated, for fuel economy, low emissions, and driveability, as you drive. Obviously the battery disconnect/reconnect procedure would cause the system to reload the factory default approximations and then the learning process would begin all over again.
So, no question, "reset" the car's ECU's via disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and the drive "feel" of the vehicle will suddenly be different, at least for a few days ormiles.
But what about learning individual driver's driving styles??
Within0 seconds of having started the car and put it into motion the engine and/or transmissions ECU(s) will have preliminarily "mapped" your personal driving style. After three minutes the ECU's will have come to a "final" conclusion on where to place you within the various driving style parameters. As many as 10 driving style "modes" seem to be indicated by one of the European marques.
Thereafter the ECU's keep a "running" three minute history and if you suddenly become more aggressive or passive it will then remap you into another "style".
So the dealer mechanics and technicians statements are correct, resetting the ECUs WILL change the vehicles driving charactoristics, "feel". But with a fairly short period the ECUs will have learned the best parameters for the vehicle's operation.
Thanks
The NAV has a display that really helps you to optimize your gas usage while driving. It has a horizontal bar graph that moves as you depress the gas pedal or let up on the accelerator. By keeping the bar graph to the right you improve your gas mileage. I don't know how it works on the new cars but in the old days it was a vacuum gage display.
It will be interesting to see what kind of mileage I get in the future in city driving and after I get some more miles on the car. Only have about 388 miles on it now.
The RX 330 was an absolute pleasure to drive on the highway, smooth and very quite. My previous car, that I traded in, was a 2002 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer In comparison it was hard riding and lots of road and engine noise.
This is with a RX330 - 2004 AWD which now has 15000 miles on it. Every day city driving averages between 17 and 18 mpg.
The A/C filter is located in the glove box. The manual says to take out the two screws at either end. They look like thumb screws to me, but I couldn't budge them.
Does anyone know how to take them out? Do they turn and then come out?
Jim
I don't need serious off-road capability- but I do haul my hang gliding equipment up some 4x4 roads. They're rocky and just a little bit steep sometimes. But nothing that serious, or requiring more than the 8" of ground clearance that the RX330 has- but certainly more than a 2WD vehicle could do. I suspect I'll need better tires.
Any thoughts and experiences with the 330?
Steve, Host
Barbara
You might want to be sure your tires are not over-inflated, and even running them a bit low might help your comfort level without undue assymetrical tread wear.
Additionally it seems to me that the springs on the RX330 are quite a bit stiffer than the ones on my RX300.
Installed Standard Lexus Aluminum Chromes
Bought the car with 18" Alloys
Did not notice change in driving till after Chromes installed.
RX300 had 16" wheel base
But having said that I have noticed more than once as "techs" mounted tires that they substantially over-inflate them in order to properly seat the tire bead, screw the valve core in before much of the air escapes, and then leave it to the "gofer" actually mounting the wheel on the car to check for proper inflation.
18" wheels and low profile tires on an SUV is an absolutely perfect example. 18" wheels with low profile tires are the rage today only because they enhance the look and appearance of SUV's that are over-height to begin with.
Given an equal overall wheel/tire circumference 17" tires will have more flex and give than the 18" equivalent and thereby render a greater level of "comfort". Especially for those that use their SUV's for their intended purpose and not for out-cornering that Porsche C4.
I've noticed that "people" (in general -especially those reading these forums) are pretty much immune to car salesmen's telling them how to configure the car they want.
There's not much incentive for the salesman switching a buyer to a different size of wheels.
What do Lexus engineers think about driving comfort of 17" vs. 18" wheels?
My guess is that Lexus has giving thought to these issues and that a large majority of 330 are sold with 18" wheels because Lexus and its customers (myself included) believe that for their intended purpose they prefer the larger wheels.
On the other hand there is the Pontiac Aztek.
"looks" of the vehicle have a tremendous affect on sales volume.
And just how sure are you that 18" wheels and low profile tires are not less expensive for the factory to purchase than are 17"...?
I would like to hear from you folks and share with me your knowledge about the obvious advantages of purchasing this option. Any kind of information regarding
the comfort factor being compromised/enhanced,
performance improvement(less body roll, flat cornering stance)
or in terms of problems be it be in terms of durability, expensive to repair, limited life span(must replace every x amount of miles)
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for sharing.
Thanks. Question answered by default.
But it likely is more about comfort than road-holding performance.
I've had this vehicle for 21 months now, with almost 25,000 miles, and have experienced no problem whatsoever (other than the inconvenience of having several of the TSBs done). Go for it!!!
Anyway, is it true about the Air suspension needing replacement of the gas charged shocks every 50k miles and that it is easily breakable? Maybe wwest with his 92 LS has experienced of maintaining his air suspension LS?
Thanks guys for your replies.
Yeah! I also had a '99 and '01. I'm sure my next one will be the 400h!
Will an AWD give better cornering on dry pavement or will it only "shine" during inclement weather? Also, should one believe Lexus' claims of only one (1) mile per gallon difference penalty when comparing AWD fuel economy to FWD?
Do tires makes much difference in handling characteristics? My folks have Michelin Cross Terrains on their 1999 RX and they made a huge improvement over the former Goodyear Integrity rubber.
Any thoughts from current owners or recent test drivers would be appreciated.
On the other hand, FWD, or front biased AWD, such as the RX, HL, Pilot, MDX, etc, can be a bit dicey when turning under acceleration, and blatantly UNSAFE under heavy acceleration.
Simultaneously applying engine drive torque and high lateral loads to just the one set of front tire contact patches can get you in BIG trouble in a BIG hurry. It's much better, for overall vehicle controlability and much more benign handling, to allocate engine drive torque to a separate set of contact patches than the ones loaded with lateral forces.
The 4runner, the BMW X3 & X5, are just a few of the rear torque biased, more safe, AWD systems currently in the market.
While at present I live in Southern California, where FWD is fine, I may be transfered to a different climate; which one I am not sure, but it might possibly have snow or more rain than we have here in the land of sunshine.
When I talk to service managers at various dealerships I get very different input. Some say FWD is fine for most anything, and the limited slip differential and the weight of the engine over the front wheels is more than enough for daily driving, even in a climate like Chicago. I drove a front wheel drive Legend there for a few years and with winter tires never had a problem.
Others tell me that the AWD is of course sure footed in rain, and better in snow, but that there are other tangible differences. More torque from a dead stop, better cornering when driving on curves or curvy hilled roads -- which we have a lot of here in Southern California.
I am also told that the gas mileage penalty is 1 to 1 1/2 mpg more for the AWD.
Any timely input or suggestions would be appreciated.
If you believe you might move RX to snow/ice climate, or you plan to off-road, perhaps AWD is best option for you?
Personally I would always op for the AWD version of the RX. But before you actually purchase I would do some serious research into the engine hesitation issue.
I called my salesman and asked him about FWD and he said they don't even sell the FWD because of the area we live in (Maryland) so I'm being forced to get a AWD. MSRP on it is $45,083.00. He said he could sell it to me for $41,500 @ 4.25%. Is this a good price? What are others paying right now out there? Does anyone know invoice on this vehicle? How much over invoice should I pay? I understand its different everywhere you go but I'm just trying to get an average.
Also should I force the issue with the FWD? I really just don't see the point of the AWD especially since I will be moving to an area that doesnt have snow/bad weather (Dallas)
tidester, host
But tell the local dealer what you plan to do first....
I'm thinking if the 84 cu ft of cargo cap shrinks to only 35 if you have people in the back seat. There will likely be a need to put stuff on the outside for camping trip to the mountains or long road trip.
what say ye?