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Lexus RX 330

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Comments

  • jeremyhollyjeremyholly Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone get the message (No POI's in the Area) when looking for POI's such as Home Depot, Lowes,Gap,Discount Tire and Cheveron. It is wierd because it can find others like Target. The ones I need it can't find and the Dealer has told me that was the operator. I asked them to show me how to properly imput the info and they then came back with the answer that I needed an updated disc. I agreed to let them update the disc and they said they would then be able to show me that it would work properly. I had never updated it from the beginning because I have always been unhappy with the Navigation System but get so frustrated with not finding anything, I didn't use it much.
    They did update the disc and couldn't figure out why those POI's would not come up. They didn't charge me for the disc because they could not make it work to find Home Depot was my specific location along with others. 5 days later they call me and said my system was not capible of being that specific on POI's. My complaint that Lexus ignores is that it will find Home Depot in California but not Las Vegas. Why does my car like Calif??? They did give me an update for free but I am stuck being dissatisfied with my Navigation System that the Salesmen tell you will do everything. We buy luxury cars that do everything but can't find simple POI's. My husband had a Escalade and I would call Onstar because Lexus Navigation System is very dissapointing.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    FYI, RX350 Navigation System may be helpful.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gottlsgottls Member Posts: 21
    I drive a '05 RX330 and I just purchased the new '07, rel. 2 to 3 wks ago, Nav DVD. I was wandering if anyone has installed there own DVD. The disc was $265 plus the dealer wanted another $105.00 to install. I thought I would give it a try, however, I started thinking I believe I can insert the disc, but is there any programing to involved to get it to work. Any tips trick or suggestions would greatly be of help.

    Thanks in advance
    Glen
  • roylerroyler Member Posts: 4
    04 RX 330...I am using full synthetic oil, I removed the filler cap and the oil is hard at the top almost spungy. The car has 53000 miles. What the heck is this?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Just install the new disk, self-programming.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    We have an '04 also with slightly higher mileage than yours, and like you have used synthetic oil since buying new. I'll check the filler cap tonight when I get home and post the findings here later on.
  • roylerroyler Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. To clarify more. When looking inside the crankcase there is a dark barrier meaning you cant see down into the crankcase. It feels kind of grainy. I have never seen this on other cars. I hope this makes some sense. I am feeling kinda stupid.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    royler, how does your oil look/feel at the end of the dipstick when you pull it out?
  • roylerroyler Member Posts: 4
    Normal...I have just never seen this in a crankcase. This might be a Lexus thing. It sounds and runs great.
  • gottlsgottls Member Posts: 21
    I just installed the new '07 Nav. System, looks and feels the same. Apparently they just added many more streets. Several years ago on this forum someone explained how to override the system to check version number and other settings. It worked on the '04 version, but has changed on the '07. Anyone know the how to override the new version, maybe even the '06 will work.

    Glen
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    royler, that is a screen that you are feeling below the cap, that's why it has a gritty feel to it. As long as you change the oil regularly and keep it clean, I don't think it's anything to be worried about. I'm actually pretty amazed at how long the oil stays clean in this car, plus it doesn't seem to burn any. I've never had to add any oil in between changes.
  • roylerroyler Member Posts: 4
    JBaumgart, Thank you for the help. One more question. How long do you go between oil changes? With the synthetic oil I have been going 6 months or 6000 miles.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    I've been changing more often, at 4,000-4,500 miles. Normally this equates to around 4 months. I buy Mobil 1 at Costco and bring it into the dealer. Follow the same procedure with our other 2 vehicles, an FX45 and a Mazda 3sGT.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..bring it into the dealer..."

    Yes, and they most likely fill your engine with the re-refined stuff they buy in bulk, CHEAP, and then sell your Mobil 1, tidy profit, to someone else.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    "Yes, and they most likely fill your engine with the re-refined stuff they buy in bulk, CHEAP, and then sell your Mobil 1, tidy profit, to someone else."

    Well you can only hope this doesn't happen. Sometimes you just have to trust your fellow man. Being located in Minnesota hopefully improves the odds that they don't do this.

    Sometimes there will be a half quart or so left over, which they will leave in the car. I consider this to be a good sign, although no guarantee to be sure.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Yes, but apparently you also must be careful about not breaking the ROUTINE of these routine maintainance schedules/procedures. Remember that most dealers use McD graduates for this level of work.

    There was only once, LONG AGO, that I put a 6 pack of Mobil 1 in the trunk of my then new 1992 LS400 to be used for the oil change. When I got the car back I quickly discovered that the "technician" had poured the Mobil 1 into the engine without first draining the old oil.

    Lesson learned.
  • briegelbriegel Member Posts: 139
    I have a 2005 RX 330 AWD. What are the concerns with coasting downhill in NEUTRAL at speeds ranging from 25-70 mph to save fuel? Potentially damaging to the transmission and/or the AWD system? Thanks!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    In addition to possibly being illegal, there are safety concerns. Besides, you're not really using all that much fuel driving downhill in gear anyway. The ECU senses the load on the engine and adjusts the flow of fuel accordingly.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sunroomsunroom Member Posts: 4
    My car's brake lights at both left & right sides are off while the top one(3rd) is on.
    I thought it's light bulb problem and open it up to check wire first. I opened the right side one first. after pulling out the socket & test it with voltage DC meter, the 3rd light went off too, and at the same time, both ABS and VSC lights are on TOO.
    what's happening?
    should I disconnect the negative power before checking? the manual said once disconnecting, it needs resetting a lot of systems, like lighting system, power windows constrol system, etc. Is it true and always necessary? Do I need to buy a code scanner to do this?
    thanks for reply in advance.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The rest of the coasting in neutral thread has been moved:

    wwest, "Winter Driving - are you prepared?" #108, 1 Jan 2009 1:11 pm
  • showstershowster Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Rx 330 with 68K. I have noticed a groaning/rubbing noise after I drive over rough road. It sounds like it is coming from left front, not sure. Taking to the delaership on Thursday. Does not start until after the rough roads and noticed when at low speeds (20 mph).
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    I'm looking at used '04-'06 RX330 RX as our next car. Were these engines corrected to prevent sludging as in the 3.0 L engine RX300 / ES330? Or do I have to buy a '07 RX350 with the completely new engine design? Thanks a lot. I guess the transmission is the other issue......

    Safe bet as a used SUV? Or just get the same vintage in a Highlander instead? Thanks a lot.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Later versions of even the 3.0L engine were "corrected".

    With the advent of the use of DBW the transaxle isn't so much a problem as is the potential danger/HAZARD that might result from inadvertently/unexpectedly encountering the 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation.
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    Thanks wwest. Your posts about Toy/Lexii over the years have always been helpful. Do you think buying a used '04-'06 RX330 AWD with over 50k miles is risky? Any issues to check with the AWD undercarriage hardware that are known problems? Thanks again.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you truly need AWD then I would suggest moving on....

    The early RX300 models, '99 & '00, had a truly functional VC (Viscous Clutch) and you could option a mechanical rear LSD. I sincerely suspect it was that actual VC functionality that was a big contributor to the premature destruction of so many of these early model's transaxles. Not by any means letting Lexus off the hook for a flawed transaxle design to begin with.

    For the '01 RX300 MY VSC/TC was adopted and the mechanical LSD option was dropped. TC activation makes the VC useless in the short term, brief periods of the need for AWD, and so the VC fluid was reformulated to make the VC non-functional even for long term slippery surface operation.

    Lexus acknowledged the VC non-functionality in the RX330 via eliminating it entirely. The early marketing indicated it, the VC, was still being used but once it was pointed out that the factory shop manuals indicated otherwise Lexus conceded the point.

    The VC is supposedly again being used in the RX350 series prior to 2010 but here again the factory documentation indicates otherwise.

    So, other than a '99 or '00 RX300 or 2010 RX350 (Risky business, buying one of those '99 or '00) there is likely NO RX series with a truly functional AWD, F/awd, system.

    Lexus has now basically acknowledged this as the 2010 RX350 has now adopted a new F/awd design, the one in use for many years by Ford (Escape, etc) and Mazda (CX-7, etc), and now Porsche for their newest R/awd 911/997 series.

    Bottom line is that if you truly need a functional form of AWD then Acura's SH-AWD is the best of the best insofar as starting from a base FWD vehicle. I think the 4runner might currently be the only reasonable choice for a R/awd system.

    The new F/awd system was first adopted for the Venza and has since converted the RX350 and Sienna to the new F/awd system. I'm relatively sure the Highlander will be next in line.

    And Toyota would be patently STUPID not to scrap the current RXh and HH separate rear motor drive in favor of this new system.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    Are you saying the Venza has a decent awd system? How does it compare with Subaru's?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    No, what I'm saying is that the new F/awd system used in the Venza, 2010 RX350, and now the upcoming 2011 Sienna is a significant improvement over past Toyota/Lexus F/awd systems.

    Were I currently in the market the Venza I4 F/awd system would be my choice as it could be quickly and simply be modified to RWD only, with F/awd manually selectable (remcotowing.com) in times of need.

    Meanwhile since I'm in no hurry I will wait for a Venza, or Sienna, with a DFI I4 and the new F/awd system.

    Subaru touts "symetrical" AWD so I doubt that it would ever get my stamp of approval. It has ALWAYS been my feeling/thinking that the front tire's roadbed traction coefficient should be allocated, first and foremost, to directional control of the vehicle.

    I consider it perfectly fine to use the front tires for drive traction just as long as lateral forces do not have to contend with drive forces, leading or lagging, insofar as allocation of roadbed traction coefficient is concerned.

    As far as I know the SH-AWD system is the only one, FWD "base", in the market that even comes close to addressing that issue.
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    Thanks again wwest - yeah the new Venza or 4Runner sound better (but mo' dollars). Like the idea of Acura's advanced system as well.

    The prices asked for low mileage (and not so low mileage) '04-'06 RX 330's are high - geez Lexii are expensive! They are quite a bit better then their Toyota counterpart, no? I've think I've struck an RX330 off the list unless I can find a FWD only model (difficult in the Northeast)....

    Does the AWD in the IS and GS similar to the pre2010 RX? Even though those are RWD based?

    Side note - wrong board - but the pricing on any of the AWD Infinities seems better than Lexus, as an alternative. Any comment on their AWD systems? Thanks again
  • tortor Member Posts: 1
    do the 2005-2007 models have the sludge problem? want to go used, and want to savoid that issue
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    tor, I believe wwest said the 3.3L engine upgrade from the 3.0L ( the one that sludged) eliminated the sludging problem. Improved oil journals?

    Pls. recall that the RX330 was 2004-2006. The 2007 to 2010 is the RX350 with the all new replacement engine that first showed-up in the new (current generation) Avalon.

    I might wait 6 mos. to 1 yr and try to buy a used '07 RX350 to totally avoid that old 3.0 / 3.3 L engine w/. the sludginghistory.

    wwest has also stated that its just the current '10 RX350 (and the Venza and certain new 4Runner models) that receive a decent AWD system. Prior to this new Toyota system, the former AWD system was so-so at best.

    Are you looking for FWD or AWD in a used RX?
  • jbl85jbl85 Member Posts: 49
    I didn't realize there was a sludging problem with the 3.3L?? I wonder if there is a real problem with the first generation at all??
  • erik_herik_h Member Posts: 77
    As an owner of a '99 RX and someone who has multiple co-workers/friends with various RX and highlanders models, I only know of 1 which has had the sludging issue. It was on a HL and it was overhauled under warranty and has been fine since.

    My '99 has not had this issue and my mechanic, a former Lexus mechanic, watches for any signs of problems. I think the issue was overblown and it only affected a relatively small number of vehicles.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    "I think the issue was overblown and it only affected a relatively small number of vehicles."

    This was certainly the case, only a small number of vehicles were affected and I remember reading that it was questionable as to how some of these were maintained, or more accurately not maintained.

    Ours is a 2004 RX330 with about 68,000 miles, and every time I check the oil level I'm amazed at how clean the oil stays, plus I've never had to add any in between changes.
  • yayas1stlexusyayas1stlexus Member Posts: 1
    My son is a Certified Toyota Mechanic and states that it is oil turns to gel for several reasons, most common on the Lexus because when it sits on top of the valves gets really hot, once oil cools down should liquefy again, however you have to make sure that you change your oil on time this gel can cause engine sludge.
  • vizviz Member Posts: 75
    I am planning to buy 2004 Rx 330 with 50k miles on it for $18k. Thoughts on any know technical issues / price? Which company is the best for extended warranty?

    Thanks in advance.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Just be aware of the randomness of the 1-2 second downshift re-acceleration delay, and the propensity for sudden unexpected windshield fogging subsequent to A/C compressor use.
  • splifford7splifford7 Member Posts: 1
    IF you still ahve the list of cbest settings could you please email them to me. my email is splifford7@aol.com
    thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please don't include your email address in postings to the Forums. Thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • dwightddwightd Member Posts: 1
    I have a clunking noise in my FWD RX (80K miles) when warmed up (does not happen when cold). I happens when I feather the accelerator at most speeds and does not happen when I just accelerate either rapidly or smoothly (in other words keep my foot on the gas for a period as opposed to feathering it). It also happens sporadically when slowing down for a stop. It is a clunk and but does not occur when the car is initially driven in the first mile or so. There are no problems other than that and my mechanic sees no obvious problems from his underside inspection. Any ideas
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    It finally happened, my first "accident" since 1975. I hit a deer this morning on a road where I know they're active (several of my friends have hit them) but I was going about 40 in a 55 zone and he just ran out of the woods and "bazinga" right into my front end. Fortunatelyh these Texas deer are not very big.

    Here's what's damaged; the plastic body piece below the hood that extends around to the wheel wells, the black air dam that is below that that has to be dropped to change the oil. There is a crack around the parking light on the painted piece, extends about 1/2 way around the parking light.

    I told my wife that even with the $1,000 deductibe that we've got that it'll more than clear that amount. That front painted piece has got to be dealer only and then painted to match. Any ideas on how much I'm looking at? The turn signal didn't break and it still works.

    Thanks in advance.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    If all you hit was an animal and nothing else, it's usually handled as a comp (comprehensive) claim, not collision. Comp claims count as claims without fault.

    I hope that helps.
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    We have an 04 RX with just a shade under 70,000 miles on it. We've always been very religious about doing our oil changes at 5K,10K,15K etc. Makes it easy to remember and when we were still working the time between changes was shorter. Now that we're retired we still use the mileage but the time has lengthened, particularly on this almost 7 year old unit.

    I was out of town for 6 weeks and working crazy hours and didn't get the oil changed until 7500 miles (also doing a couple of miles a day on dirt roads). When I took it in for the change I was amazed at how clean the oil was, looked like it had been changed within the week.

    I recall someone on an earlier post writing something similar but IIRC he was using synthetic, whereas I'm using pure dino oil. Has anyone else noticed this?
  • jbl85jbl85 Member Posts: 49
    What you are experiencing is normal. You will see a lot of whining about engine sludge and transmission problems on this board, though most of that sort of discussion is on the first generation RX.

    I have a '99 and an '05 RX and both of them perform flawlessly and when I change the oil after 6 months, the oil is only slightly discolored.

    Take care of your car and it will take care of you.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited December 2010
    You can check over in the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 discussion, but I always heard that oil turns dark almost as soon as you put it in the crankcase. If your oil isn't getting dark, I'd be wondering if it's working right, since it's supposed to take the dirt and soot and combustion byproducts and hold it in suspension.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Old information, OLD..!!

    New engine piston compression and oil rings are now so well fitted that products of combustion do not reach the crankcase as readily as in yesteryear. About the third time my older brother changed the oil in his '91 LS400, at eevry 3000 mile inteval, he called to ask me if these was a problem because the oil he was draining was TOO clean.

    I advised him to switch to 5-6000 mile intervals and not to worry if the oil still looked fairly clean.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Mine was dark last week when I changed it. I should go check the odometer - I'm bad to wait 8 or 10,000 miles between changes. ;)
  • onyxoneonyxone Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 RX 330 shifts rough. also downshifts and at wrong times and speeds. also speeds up quickly. I can stop the speed up with braking. s this a defect, or a maintanace problem? 57,800 miles. Please advise
  • marta3marta3 Member Posts: 3
    Took car to dealer (Manhattan Lexus) for 60,000m checkup. Agent urged me to replace timing belt and water pump-$1,000. Need advice on whether or not this job is really needed now, or overly cautious. Also recommended rear brakes/pads $695. Usually have my own mechanic handle brake, tire and regular service issues. Any reason to let Lexus handle this one, despite high price, this one time? Told dealer I'd get back to him today. Really appreciate hearing from you.
  • jbl85jbl85 Member Posts: 49
    This is from the following website...unless you have very unusual circumstances as to how you drive your RX, then your dealership is trying to make up for lost revenues.

    http://www.lexus.com/contact/maintenance.html
    Then click on the Timing Belt replacement statement, which reads as follows:

    Our timing belts have been very reliable. However, the timing belt is subjected to severe stress if the vehicle is operated under extensive idling or low speed driving for long distances, such as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi or patrol car. If the timing belt breaks, the engine will stop running and will not restart until it is repaired. While it is possible that the original timing belt may last the life of the above engines, for peace-of-mind, the timing belt may be replaced every 90,000 miles. Also, if major engine work is performed, such as a valve job or engine rebuild, the timing belt should be replaced.
  • 2004rx330_nj2004rx330_nj Member Posts: 1
    I bought this 2004 RX330 new and have maintained it well. New timing belt/water pump and tires six months ago. I love the car but am concerned that it might cost me more to maintain it than buying/leasing another car (probably less expensive car than Lexus). I put on about 15k/year now almost all highway driving. Can anyone tell me what costly repairs I might expect in the next 1 to 4 years?
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