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I was able to remove the two bolts at the rear of the skid plate but could not find the attachment point(s) at the front. Any help would be appreciated, especially with pictures.
Thanks,
Winter2
Try to flush it away with a large flow of water. If it doesn't move out of it's location leave it there. At least one of us will know where his rattle comes from
What you discover today was thoroughly explained before the conflict began by this person:
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antoine_Sfeir
The CRD was an "option" oriented towards energy independence. It was made too sophisticated to start and you were not given the chance to train service people before the vehicles were delivered.
Your idea is interesting, but I think the wrench is wedged in front of the differential. There is no rattle but I just do not want the wrench to get caught in the machinery.
Farout, I must disagree with what you say here. The technicians at my dealership were well trained prior to the appearance of the CRD. Also, these same technicians have been trained to deal with the GC CRD and the Cummins diesels in the Dodge trucks. They spent a week in school for each application including hands on.
The quality of the service you receive very much depends on how motivated the technician is to do the best job he or she can. Perhaps I have been fortunate to have such good technicians.
I get several consumer e-zines and one of them strongly suggested that getting a hybrid like the Prius was not a smart thing to do. Apparently they are not holding up as well as their maker would have us believe.
I do know that when oil hit $90. a barrel that the more costly way of putting steam down the wells became affordable to get the oil out of deep rock that's holding the hard to get thicker oil.
With China expanding so rapidly they have become keen competition in the open market for oil, as well as Japan, and every other place that needs oil.
farout
Amusing story (at least to me) - I had the Ram into its Dodge dealer a few days ago for service. Noted a green Liberty CRD on the lot. This Dodge dealer is 1/2 mile away from where I traded in my CRD to a Chevy dealer last October. I took a look at it, up and down, and thought it was my old CRD. Had 43k miles vs. the 36k I traded at, but hey, maybe a salesman demo'd it. I had kept my CRD clean so there were few identifying marks, but there some small water stains on the front seats (if your Liberty has the cloth seats, you know what I mean) and I thought they were the same as the stains on my old CRD. I memorized the last 6 digits of the VIN to see if it was mine... got home and discovered it was nowhere close. Funny, given that it seemed identical down to cloth stains and everything.
No price posted on the not-mine CRD, in fact nothing but a "balance of factory warranty (ha, ha) sticker on it. Wonder how much they want and how long it's been there. No, I'm not missing mine - just curious. I have done some driving cost calculations and with the current costs of diesel and gasoline, and the CRD maintenance requirements, my Suburban costs no more to drive than my old CRD, despite its size and lower mpg. I keep reading silly news articles saying diesel is the future, but if diesel continues to cost 80 cents/gallon more than 87octane, it's the future only for people who can't do math.
The front bolts are recessed. You will need to go through the round holes at the front of the shield with a socket on and extension to reach the bolts. Your may have already noticed that the rear holes are slotted and open so that you can just loosen them, leave them in place and slide the shield forward when the front bolts are out. This helps putting it back on too. Mine has been off a few times for changing the front differential oil, looking for the rattle and once for something I dropped.
I did not have a box end wrench long enough to reach the tensioner. So, I clamped one end of the longest box end wrench I have in a vice grip to make it longer. It actually works pretty good since the vice grip can be angled on the wrench to fit in a little better.
We could push a bit more to recycle our waste cooking oil without creating conflicts but as of today the food chain is financially stressed worldwide. We had the same stressed situation between currencies before the Euro was introduced. Is it the same group of people creating this mess? Hands are rising and fingers are pointing to a common direction :surprise:
As of China, they often use air-air heat pumps for heating apartments because it's cheaper than oil and most of their privately owned (small) vehicles run on gasoline. They have a "modular" diesel engine that can power small trucks, compressors, tractors, etc... This type of engine produces black smoke as if you would burn tires.
$4 a gallon, but for which currency? The "$" sign is used in several countries
On the way to work this morning I heard the barrel of crude oil is quoted 117USD. The "TOTAL" filling station prices are 1.51 Euros per liter of premium gasoline and 1.34 for the ULSD diesel. When you convert these prices you come to more than 10 USD per gallon for gasoline. British television reported that people need to lock their home heating oil tanks because of theft of fuel. Wasn't this part of the story in "Mad Max" movie?
There are many people throughout the world who are paid from a different country than where they have to work and live. I call these the educated poor
Unfortunately there are many North-Americans in this situation.
I haven't yet found the way to increase mileage on the CRD. Driving at 50 or 75 mph makes no difference in my case. Perhaps the tuning chip will become my last resort. I tried different oil and air filters, different fuels, different tire pressures, different lubricants; in all combinations temperature is the main factor influencing mileage.
- there are 350,000,000 wealthy middle class individuals in China, in equivalent to US and EU standards.
In which case of the d_0_llar or the eur_0 do you think we stand? We need brains, will and a vigorous industry to get out of this mess. Our interests are too related to the petrol industry. How do you explain we made a sophisticated and unreliable engine out of a rock solid technology?
Frankly, I think the U.S. dollar is valued about right while the Euro is overvalued. But I don't think this is the most suitable place to get into debates on international monetary policy.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
As to the cost of diesel versus gasoline, the price differential is closing here in MD where I live. Regular unleaded is running close to $3.60/gallon while diesel is still available for 3.999 in a few places. The price of gasoline is rising much faster than the price of diesel and I expect gasoline will be more expensive by the middle of this year, but I have been wrong before.
Curious about the CRD you saw. My CRD has leather so water stains are a non-issue. When I ordered my CRD, I wanted the front passenger seat to be adjustable for my wife and the only way to do that was to get a leather interior. All that cost $1500, so in a sense I have put my wife on a pedestal.
Thanks for the info. The dealer is going to print instructions for me and their diesel tech is going to show me too.
To change the belt, they have a special long wrench with some crazy curves in it that makes changing the belt a breeze. I just may buy one if the cost is not to outrageous.
On another note, it looks like we will be heading for another ball joint recall and this time it will be the upper joints. There was an item on the local news radio station concerning collapsing front ends on 2002 and 2003 Libertys. They attribute this to ball joint failure.
The CRD we own is similar all over the world. The monetary policy has its effects:
- You buy European technology at a lower cost than we do
- We buy an "American vehicle" with a much higher price tag
Put this in a blender and what do we have:
- High prices for a standard technology in the EU
- Decent prices and help from Heaven in the US
When currencies match, you don't need Heaven anymore.
30mpg at steady 55mph
26mpg at typical 65-70mph freeway
24mpg at 75mph freeway
Outside temperatures played a role too, but I have no influence on those.
Mar '05 Diesel Liberty still hasn't been to the shop.
Any new issues I'm out of the loop on ???
Thanks.
Without being too technical I observed the following:
- diesels that use flywheels are not sensitive to temperature
- we usually get good mileage during summer holidays
- our daily obligations are often in city traffic
- winter conditions cumulate low temp. and traffic :sick:
In a year, how many days do you travel for pleasure :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Rear brakes wear according to your driving habits and the load on the rear axle. The CRD is almost balanced and the brake load proportional valve seldom needs to ask for assistance from the rear axle. On mine I hear the rear pads whistle when I apply the brakes, and by pulling the hand brake the sound changes. To set the play of the rear pads one needs to pinch the disc brake and let go by 3 notches in reverse direction. This makes the hand brake lever travel halfway up in its slot.
I have rust but practically no wear on the rear rotors after 120,000 KM.
The fronts were metal to metal and the rears were at 10%.
I went in because I was starting to hear a noise from the passenger rear.
I was told that the rotors are a composite and are designed to wear down with the pads-not a great design IMHO.
I notice no difference in braking.
Maybe something in your brake system is hanging up causing the back brakes to not release properly.
My morning drive is mostly downhill, and I tend to wear out brakes rather fast, I was very impressed with the life on the OEM brakes.
People post about minor stuff. I remember cars in the 60's and 70's that were wore slam out at 50k mile. "Never" did a car make 100k. It would flood out when it rained. Squeeked, rattled and were a real POS. Cadillacs, Buicks sedans, it didn't matter. People are spoiled now and have no experience to even change oil. You go to a parts house and girls are punching numbers and have no idea what the parts do. Guys had to be cracker jack mechanics before they got work at the parts house. Cars and trucks always broke down and crossing over parts was the standard of the day. Nothing stayed stock just to keep it running. Parts guys were like doctors, they knew soooo much about all cars and trucks. We are talking about working on the drive line all of the time. rebuilding engines and transmssions. There were no options like today. Now the computer tells you whats wrong and you get the part number from the girl and put the part on. Jees.
My jeep split a blower hose after driving it for 3k miles. The girl at the parts counter at the dealer had it in stock and I put it on in 10 minutes. These cars are so reliable they should have girls in the mechanic bays too.
It has 70k on it. I bought it in N.C., I flew up and drove it home. It is in nearly new condition. It is an amazing little truck.
I went to a grocery wholesaler a few months ago and bought 5 gallons of VO and poured it in DINO 75/25 VO. Smells good, runs better with more power, smoother, more responsive, cleaner without all the smoke, increased mpg by 1.5, quieter. I then poured it in my boat with a four cylinder Perkins in a 43 foot trimaran then into my YM2200 Yanmar tractor. all was great then the price of VO jumps up to $6 a gallon wholesale. I'm still going to add the VO. American diesel is dirty unpurified crap compared to the euro fuel. All of the engines are just happier and so am I. Fortunately I don't drive to work everyday. I tried peanut oil like ole Mr. Diesel patented it for but I blew the turbo hose and got busy and really didn't notice any difference from the VO but the price of peanut oil is now 12 dollars a gallon. I'm going to take my tractor and plant peanuts, I can eat them, sell them and make fuel. Sounds good to me. This truck is worlds away from the trucks a decade or two or three or four ago. This VM Motori of Italy motor is great. VM has been making only diesels since 1943 and this motor is all over europe since 2001. Europe is 60% diesel passenger cars. I see why GM bought 50% of the stock in 2007 and will be putting them in the 2009 cts cadillacs. Hence the reason no 2007 CRD's. Roger penske is now CEO. I doubt they will be in America. I'm sure an American company will screw up the company.
Anyway, complaining about taking your jeep into the dealer is funny to me. All of the dealers have always been that way. It's not the Jeep. If you can't do the work your self you should have a prius or a focus. A jeep crd that never leaves the road or doesn't have a towing backage on it is a waste. Like kids that buy trucks and jack them up with mud tires that never leave the road. If you can't turn a wrench, stop whineing.
Mine has had all the recalls done, the joints, the TC, the egr. I get a kick out of the dealer replacing all these things for free at 70k or 100k miles. Back in the day we never heard of a recal and every part and option on the car was broke in five years no matter how much you babied it.
The tc is the way it is because 300 ft. lbs of torque would give you whip lash everytime it shifted. The next time it happens I look forward to the sunpro tc and the transgo shift kit. Goody Goody. Clean the map sensor when you change the oil. It's one #4 allen, how easy is that?
I didn't see any catrostophic failures anywhere about the CRD so I bought one. The egr? Filthy fuel. Brakes at 100k...your kidding right? Electric mirrors? what is that for? leave my mirrors alone. best thing that could happen. must be chicks.
My son is so jealous I have to let him drive it.
geeep...geeep...lol...
Do you have oil leak stains where you park? My parking area remains clean except for the air conditioning condensates that carry oily residues. That's all there is after 5 years
Is it the crank sensor? Little hic cups such as this as well as tranny issues- vibrations and little crap have me looking at the Cummins or Power Stroke 3/4 tons.
Seem to be coming from the drain plug-which my oil place changed from the allen to a standard bolt type.
Nothing to worry about.
Post 10K
How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.
Then bleed it with the on-board pump and bleed valve on the left side.
The only dash light is the "water in fuel", which I have seen a couple of times.
I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.
The stalling I think is the EGR opening up when it is not supposed to. Since I disconnected it mine has not stalled once.
I am still not enamored with the transmission, the TC seems to slip in 5th lockup between 50 & 55 if I push it too hard. I just live with it, and if it fails I would like to put in a Suncoast TC and shift kit.
I'm a [non-permissible content removed] behind the wheel and even driving it hard over 80 most of the time I see 25-26mpg. I always felt the EGR as a gov't control device that really did little other then to make some feel good in the pits of their stomach that we were saving the environment.
The thing seems to stall after sitting for an hour or so and as I get up a little speed and stop at the end of the driveway... the dreaded rattle and dead. She fires right up so I don't know what else it can be.
Some on here have said to clean the throttle body out and others say it's the fuel filter. I think I will be doing the NO EGR, cleaning of the throttle body and changing the fuel filter.
Other then those stupid quirks the truck does what I ask it when I ask it.
The service writer at the dealership told me unofficially the same thing we all know by now. This was the former DC's way of testing the market with Diesels. They rushed all of the software and threw the smallest diesel that would bolt to the infamous A545- (I like the old 727's better, but I'm just weird.) Much like everyone else, I don't understand why the engine and trans weren't out of a Mercedes european diesel model car?
Let me know if you upgrade the TQ converter. The after market makes much better products anyway.
If this fixes the stalling I'll keep the truck and purchase the extended warrenty. If it doesn't then I'll sell it and but the Cummins.
I urge anyone that has this truck to either crawl under there and look or take it to the dealer. It has not hit the bulliten yet. My truck went in with a smidge over 32,000 on it. The pads and rotors are "green" and still original from the factory so it's not as if I autocross with her.
Try removing the two mounting nuts on the filter head and lift the entire assembly up as far as the hoses will let you. Then you can then remove the electrical plug(s) and loosen the drain working from the top. If you lift the assembly up and away you can drop a transmission funnel below the filter area into an empty container below the vehicle to catch the fuel when you open the drain. Or not, just a suggestion.
How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.
Just a minor caution here: It can be risky to poor raw unfiltered diesel fuel into a filter unless you are sure the fuel is only going into the proper area of the filter. It is a major caution on diesel engines that use a drop in filter in a canister. In all modern diesel fuel systems the fuel must be drawn in only through the filter. The primer pump on the filter works quite well and ensures that the fuel is safely filtered. You must have done it right, but it only takes one particle that is big enough to plug an injector.
I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.
Well it is supposed to be a drain. It’s made like a tiny funnel with a place where you can attach a clear plastic hose and open it partially and drain the water off. The threaded part has a flat side to let the fuel flow through to the funnel part when partially open. The problem is it doesn’t work very well at least I could’t get it to work for s#’!.
I have around 55k miles on my engine and it seems to have more power than ever. I am not sure if I am not enamored with the transmission or enamored with this engine that seems to be capable of shredding a fairly strong transmission on demand.
I was comparing it to my Dodge P/U.
The drain is actually a valve that you push up and a hose to direct the water/fuel into an oil pan. Much nicer than unscrewing the water in fuel sensor.
I did not feel like taking the thing apart more than I had to to change the filter, the new vehicles have so much crammed into the engine bay they are difficult to work on.
As to pre-filling the filter, I keep some #1 for heaters and pour it into the filter center. I have never had a problem getting dirt into the filter [non-permissible content removed]'y.
At 107000 mi mine is running good and getting 23-25 mpg.
1. You need to find the boost sensor on the intake manifold. It sits near the back of the intake manifold and is on top. Your will need a four millimeter Allen key wrench to remove the single screw that holds it in place.
2. Disconnect the wiring that goes to it. Once out flip it over. The poor thing will probably be buried in black sticky soot. Clean that off with some brake cleaner and a very soft brush. I find Amsoil Power Foam also works very well too. Once you have the sensor nice and clean, replace it and re-connect the wiring.
3. For the hose, the end that keeps blowing off is probably oil soaked and is very mushy. If that is the case, you will probably have to replace it. My dealer gave me the hose and I replaced it myself, returning the bad one, no questions asked.
When you replace that hose, it should be in place without either end attached to anything. Make sure the throttle body is clean and dry. Apply a thin coat of either Indian Head Shellac or Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the outside of the throttle body where the hose goes and another thin coat to the inside of your new hose. Apply the coat of either as far into the hose as you possibly can without dropping the applicator into the hose. Allow the gasket cement to dry for about three to five minutes and then slide the hose onto the throttle body. Apply the hose clamp and tighten it down. Apparently the gasket cement protects the hose from the oil and hot throttle body. I strongly suggest you wear disposable gloves when using either of the aforementioned cements as methanol is the only solvent for either of them.
Before changing anything I would try to feel how stiff both hoses become when the turbo is building pressure. If there is some kind of obstruction in the intercooler the boost pressure sensor could see a partial pressure. Secondly, there was a discussion here about a different type of hose that never became soggy. Certain makes of oil cause swelling of the intake hose on my engine
Your posting makes some sense, but according to the tech at the dealer I use, a boost sensor buried in sticky soot is the primary cause of blown hoses. He has yet to see a blocked or clogged intercooler.
As to the oils, I have found that the original 0W-40 from Mobil gave me the most headaches with seepage, swollen hoses and consumption. The two oils I find that work best in my CRD are Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV Diesel and Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Synthetic for truck/Diesel. They both spec out similarly except that the Amsoil has a significantly lower rate of oil vaporization at high temperatures. Presently, the Mobil product is nearly $7.00/quart while the Amsoil product is about $1.00/quart less even when you include shipping costs and other fees.