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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for posting this. What the mechanic is telling you totally makes sense--thanks for posting it.
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    Lightnin - thanks for the information. I notice that I have a smoother running CRD after a highway trip. I also am using a diesil fuel conditioner in addition to Shell Diesel fuel.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Does anyone in the forum know what the maximum allowable exhaust gas temperature is for the engine in the CRD. I am looking to update the exhaust system in my Liberty and have gotten hold of the mathematics to calculate the correct pipe diameter.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi lightning3,
    What your technician told you about running a few miles on the highway produces the same remedy as the "nose blowing" of the EGR valve. This trick was found by Renault 'Road Angels' many years ago. They could get the cars going again without opening the engine compartment;
    I still do it for my catalyser once a week, preferably at night. :blush:

    I have close to 85,000 miles with no issue apart from the battery. I observed that when the battery was getting problematic, the free spinning pulley of the alternator was constantly dirty. This can explain that :) Since then I have a new truck again.
    The BFG T/A tires have 56,000 miles and still 1/4" of rubber on them. They are getting slippery on wet pavement now but have been a wonderful deal since day one!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I use your "nose blowing" trick on my CRD several times per week. I get some smoke initially but then it clears up after repeating it a second time. On a recent long trip, I performed the nose blowing a few times. No smoke/soot after the second treatment. I have been using Amsoil cetane improver and Amsoil detergent additives pretty regularly and they seem to help. I wish U.S. diesel fuel had better quality and had higher cetane.

    I will be replacing the hose from the CAC to the engine in the next week or so as part of it has oil soak through. I am looking to get a custom built silicone hose, with a drain to replace the existing one. Changing it is tiresome.
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I was cleaning out my Liberty yesterday. When took the top engine cover off (the one that has "2.8 CRD") I found for the 2nd time that either some field mice or some other small critters not only made a nest under the cover but also chewed the loom and insulation off of 3 wires for the injectors. :surprise: I covered them quickly with eletrical tape, but I'l have to either re-splice them with weatherproof butt connectors or just use heat shrink tubing to re-insulate the wires to keep them from shorting and catching on fire. I kept the cover off thinking that this will discourage a repeat visit from these unwelcome tennants because it will hold the engine heat and it makes it an excellent place for them to nest in.

    Anyone else have some ideas/thoughts on this? :confuse:
  • alvankoalvanko Member Posts: 1
    GET A KAT :surprise:
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I don't think the cat would enjoy living under the hood of my Libby, especially with the motor running! Having to remove cat remains from the engine fan, falling out on the Interstate only to be runover by an 18-wheeler, etc..!
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Same thing happened to me with my 05 CRD this last winter. The mice made a nest under the engine cover, using a bunch of foam insulation they tore off the underside of the cover. I repaired the bare wires with liquid insulation by starbright. I have used it for permantly insulating and sealing out moisture on jobs like trailer lite wiring, boat wiring, etc. Rodents seem to like chewing on wire insulation and they did a good job of it on the wiring for the 2 middle cylinders. Most auto parts stores and hardware stores carry it. More permanent, seals tight, and easier to apply (has a brush on the cap).
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    You don't want a cat for that.
    They get killed when they are under the hood.
    Had it happen last Xmas :cry:
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    If I have to go to the dealer once a year and pay 4or 500.00 dollars for them to tell me that something is broke and is not. I wll get ready of the CRD.

    All you have to do is unplug the maf sensor or install a Serg and install a Provent to stop the oil from the turbo to the FCV, and about the fuel? do not ever use Shell fuel, go to any other station that you see truckers stopping and use that fuel. If you like to see your engine to smooth out you can use TCW-3 oil at 2 ounces per gallon of fuel and that will make a lot of change in your engine. I buy my at wally world (Super Tech).

    Nescosmo...........
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Interesting solution, but are you asking for trouble? I can see where the Provent might be helpful, but disconnecting the MAF sensor? What problem have you had with Shell diesel? I use it frequently and I have not had a single issue. What have you run into for issues with Shell fuel? The addition of two cycle oil? If things run more smoothly, then it must be improving the cetane of the fuel.

    As to the oil vapor problem, I am running Amsoil 15W-40 full synthetic. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 except the vaporization rate is lower. I also clean the boost sensor every 5,000 miles as well as the hose from the CAC to the engine. There is barely any oill film in it when I clean the hose. As to fuel, I prefer to go to busy truck stops when travelling long distances. I generally use Pilot or Love's stops. They are always busy. I also add cetane improver and detergent or try to find a station that sells B5 or B20. The closer I get the cetane to 51 to 54, the smoother and quieter the engine runs, plus FE goes up. I blow the engine's nose twice weekly and that helps alot too.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    I notice that after I install the Master E8012S fuel pump I do not have to clean the nose on my CRD. Seem to me that air bubbles in the fuel have to do something with the carburation in the injectors causing the smoke that we persive. Something to think about it.

    Nescosmo.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    What and where is the "LOST" forum? Thanks - JP
  • lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    The used kleenex disappeared from our little stuffing places and was found under the plastic shroud when I was inspecting. It was the whitest mouse nest I've ever seen. We have a lake place and the abundant mice will invade the auto but rarely make it to the city home. Thanks for the info, I will now check the wiring thoroughly and inspect more often. - JP
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think he means Lost? Ask a Host for Help!?

    This may be helpful: Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • carlottagoodcarlottagood Member Posts: 1
    Purchased new which promised 22 - 29mpg. Typically got 20. However I moved to a small town and in the last 9 months, I've been driving mostly short distances within 2 miles. I fill the tank about once a month. Went from 20mpg down to 10 mpg. Spewing black smoke whenever gunning accelerator. When idling, the running sound switches every 5 seconds.
Dealerships not helpful at all. Brand new oil and fuel filters. Drove for 4 hours to blow out/clean injectors. No difference. Will have the injectors checked and cleaned if necessary, will also check: mass air flow sensor, particulate filter, and EGR valve. 

Please, can anyone offer advice before I take it in yet again? Mechanics here don't seem to know a whole lot about diesels. South Bay, Southern California. Thanks.
  • zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    My '05 ha s been making a pesky belt squeaking noise. Brought it to the dealer (Island Jeep in Lindenhurst NY). They said it needed a belt, $250 later, it still squeaks! Brought it back, they said it needs an alternator $700! Yeah right! My mom & pop mechanic says it's a belt tensioner. Not to be a sucker twice, my feeling is to try the tensioner. Someone out there must have had the same problem. Any help?
    Bill Z in NY
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    I had a similiar issue and after a long high speed run with a low sulfur diesel additive in the tank, the problem disappeared and has not come back. I suggest the use of an additive.
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    Drive on a HWY 25 to 50 miles. In light or no traffic slow down and then put the pedal to de metal. Rapid acceleration will give a puff of black smoke that will fade as you pull away.. Do this every month. Do not be temmid.. The smoke and sludge will be blown away.. Diesels need this to keep clean. OK :)
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Welcome aboard...
    I had the same problem and I left it squeak for a long time until a friend begged me to stop it :sick:
    It was only the serpentine belt that was not routed properly: it went around (outside) the alternator & idler & A/C pulleys instead of wrapping around the inner side of the idler pulley. Look at the routing picture above the radiator and you will rapidly understand.
    Fix: Take a 15mm ratchet (that has a long lever) and tension the spring of the tensioning pulley located between the crankshaft and power steering pulleys. You will get dirty rubbing agains the fan shroud :( This takes less than one minute :)
    I may have inverted the A/C and power steering pulleys, I don't remember which is which.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Is seems to me that you have an EGR issue; To see if it is: take the Maf wire off the sensor (at the air intake) take it for a ride, blow it nose and see what happen. You will see an increase of power,smooth ride and no smoke. also the engine light will come on, not to worry that is normal. run it like that for about 100 miles and see if your fuel mileages increases. if so, then clean your EGR and FCV.

    nescosmo.....
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Some times if you have high mileage the alternator pulley will do that.
    If you go back to the dealer tell them to replaced the pulley not the alternator, you need that any way if your have high mileage, then see what happen.

    Note: If you buy the tensioner. pulleys they are all the same, one of them is different but the pulley is the same. that one cost more that the others so do not do it, buy the regular one.

    Good luck.

    nescosmo.....
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Air in a high pressure injection system on a diesel will cause a diesel to miss badly and not smoke. If you are getting air into the fuel system, then the lift pump, if the CRD has one is the problem. Otherwise, the problem lies elsewhere.

    The smoke I get when I blow the nose lasts for a second or two and after a second consecutive application is gone. I attribute a good part of the smoke problem to the poor quality diesel swill sold in this country and secondly to stop and go driving that many of us do. The addition of detergents and cetane improver help significantly. The use of biodiesel helps even more.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As others have suggested, use a good fuel additive from RedLine, Amsoil or Power Kleen. The short distance no warm up driving you do , will carbon up an engine, gasoline included. Sounds like that engine is really loaded with carbon. The tech at the dealership I use can tell which CRDs are babied and which CRDs are not babied. The former emit clouds of soot when he beats on them.

    As suggested, find a nice lonely, long, straight piece of highway. Make sure you have driven your CRD at least ten miles so that the engine is thoroughly warmed up.

    While at a complete stop, lockout the overdrive (button on side of shift lever. There will be light on the dashboard). Then nail the gas to the floor and hold it there until you get to to 3200 RPM (speed > 60 MPH) and hold there for a few seconds. Come to a complete stop and repeat the process several times until you do not get large clouds of soot. By the time all or most of the carbon has been removed, you should get little or no visible smoke.

    You will need to use detergents and cetane improvers regularly along with flogging the engine several times per week. Also, check your air filter.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Will a 02 Jeep Liberty Over Head Console work in a 2006 Diesel? Is the wiring harness in place even though the vehicle was never so equiped.

    thanks
    dusty
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    On Friday afternoon when I was performing an oil change on my CRD, I noticed a bunch of black oil on the right rear quarter of the engine block, the rear one-third of the oil pan, and the front of the transmission pan. I checked the top of the engine and found oil leaking from around the CCVC on top of the valve cover. I cleaned everything off with solvent (Amsoil Power Foam) and ran the engine for a few minutes and nothing more seemed to leak out.

    Today I drove the Jeep and after a bit started to smell burned oil. I got the car home and there was oil leaking from the back of the engine and not the CCVC. I again cleaned everything. I ran ran the engine and opened the oil filler, I put my hand over it and noticed positive pressure. I was expecting a vacuum. Also, I pulled the hose off of the CCVC and it was spitting out small droplets of oil.

    My first suspicion is that the CCVC has failed. I will try to remove it tomorrow and see if it is cleanable. As for the oil, I am wondering if the rear main seal has failed or if this stuff I did not get with the first cleaning.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    I also found "oily" stains on the ground that I interpretated as an oil leak.
    Liquid was dripping from the two bolts located under the engine, near the transmission.
    All levels were OK (coolant, transmission, power steering, engine oil).
    I put a white piece of wood under the truck to identify the color of the "oil" and left it overnight.

    It turned out to be diesel fuel that had washed the block on its way down.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Was not diesel fuel. The right rear of the engine was where the oil was with almost nothing on the left side. Did not smell like diesel fuel but like engine oil. It is black like the engine oil.

    On top of that, I have a new issue. The trans slips when it engages in top gear. You get the sensation of going over rumble strips for about one-half second.

    The CRD is off to the doctor tomorrow. I am going to check the color of the trans fluid and see if any codes have been thrown.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have...
    Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    In late 2006, Chrysler detuned the engine to save the torque converter in what is known as the "F37" recall. The recall took away about six percent of the torque in the hope it would save the torque converter from being eaten alive by the engine torque..

    For long distances, I generally drive between 62 MPH and 65 MPH and the engine does not feel like it is lugging. The quality of the shift now seems to have changed and is working it's way down to lower gears. I am getting firmer shifts lower down but the shift at 48 MPH and the shift at 57 MPH both have that "rumble strip" sensation but the 57 MPH shift has become a two part shift with a split second delay before full engagement.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Sound to me that you have too much oil in the engine.
    When you empty the engine oil put only six quarts do that because allways oil stay in the engine and if you put the right amount , you will be over fill.
    If you take the ccvc watch the O rings, they are very bad to install, be aware the if you do not put the O rings well, it wil leak oil. If you think that the CCVC is bad buy a new one, they are not that expensive. and allways use a ProVent. also check your Turbo.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Nescomo,

    I have always put in six full quarts and twelve ounces from another and have never seen the engine overfilled. The level on the dipstick is always between the "MIN" and "MAX'.

    As to the CCVC, I believe it did fail. I have been driving for the past day or so with the oil filler cap loose and no oil has appeared around the CCVC. As to adding a Provent device, maybe later on. First I need to have the trans evaluated to see what is going on in there.

    One question; is the CCVC available as an aftermarket part or is it still a dealer only part?
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Do not forget to check your air filter for dirt.

    Nescosmo....
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I use a K&N air filter. Just cleaned it 4000 miles ago after 18000 miles of use. Was dirty but not outrageous so.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The dealer called me today and told me of two issues.

    1. The oil leak was caused by a blown rear main seal. How the oil got on the top of the engine I will never know. It leaked around the CCVC.

    2. Torque converter is toast and probably the front pump too. Had the F37 done in December of 2006. They replaced the TC at that time.

    I am going to speak with the tech tomorrow PM. and see what else he has to say. I would like to retain that nice firm shift if possible.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Could you try to explain what "toast" means? Is it excessive wear of the clutch plates or destruction of the central element within the TC?
    You had given the name of a company proposing a reinforced component that could handle the extra torque. Even if you change this component, the lockup clutch plates remain the same ;)

    I have to admit, 5 years ago my local Jeep tech understood well the latent problem of automatic shifting under high torque.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Winter K&N filters are not good for the CRD lab your oil and you will see the results. The main seal issue is because too much oil or the oil pressure is too high. Ebay sells CCV, go to the dealer is not too expensive. Use a normal filter and maybe your back seal leak will go away. Try it for two month.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1.... Toast means: gone, finito, good bye Lola, Sayonara, Gone with the wind, useless, etc,etc,etc.

    Nescosmo....
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, nescosmo :(
    The torque converter unit and the set of clutches are two distinct parts of the transmission.
    The first can typically become out of balance after overheating and the second should trigger a high oil temperature warning signal before the gearbox gets damaged.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    How many miles (kilometers) did you have since the F37 to TC failure?
    Are you going with stock parts or aftermarket?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I had the F37 done in December 2006 or about 23K miles ago. What is so funny is that the original TC was fine when they removed it.

    As to parts, I am doing this under warranty (stock parts). Before the year is over, the trans gets the transgo kit. If the TC fails again, then I will put a Suncoast or other high performance part in.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Nescosmo,

    I have been using the K&N in my CRD for more than 24K miles. There is no oily film anywhere in the intake tube to the turbo and in fact it is spotless. I spoke to the tech sometime ago about the K&N and he said no problem.

    As to the oil, it gets changed every 5000 miles. I use Amsoil full synthetic 15W-40. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel motor oil except Noack is much lower.

    I will look on EBay for the CVCC.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Spoke with the dealer today and I should be getting my CRD back this evening. Items replaced included the torque converter which had overheated (turned blue) and surprisingly the rear main seal. That went for reasons unknown.

    Cost $0.00

    Thank goodness for extended warranties.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Do you have skid plates?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    No skidpads. I do not go off road, mostly highway, some stop and go.

    To update, got the CRD back today. The tech told me that the dealer that had done the F37, left out several bolts that hold the engine and trans together. Also, a bolt that holds an exhaust hanger to the CRD was also missing. Turns out that the dealer that did the F37 also replaced the front pump. Rear main seal was also leaking and that got replaced.

    Will be adding an auxiliary trans cooler in the near future.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Winter... what year is your CRD. If it is an 05 then you have 70k of warranty on the tranny.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    It is a 2005. I also purchased an extended warranty when I bought the CRD and it has already paid for itself.

    The tech did a great job. My CRD runs like a banshee and pulls up hills with a great deal more alacrity. The Florida shop who did the initial F37 must have messed something up. The CRD did not run this well after the FL dealer worked on it.

    I am going to watch my FE to see if it changes.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Where in Fla. I am in Central Fla. If it here like to know whitch dealer.

    Nescosmo.
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