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Since AWD systems always have some level of engagement in 4WD, there is more and tear on the system and more overall fuel consumption.
If this element had not been involved I know it would have pulled its self out, hell even my wife’s Sonata will completely disengage the ESC when you push the release button. I have owned AWD vehicles in the past and aside from ground clearance they are far superior in snow and on slick surfaces than the 4 wheel drive system of the Liberty.
This is another reason for deciding the trade (which because of economics I may not be able to) I don’t know why Jeep won’t let you decide when the need arises to let you completely disengage the ESC. In my opinion it is the Achilles heel of the Liberty.
I am not here to trash the Liberty diesel in fact in my previous post I bragged on its strengths and I have really enjoyed its ownership the last 2 years but I do worry about repair cost and the weakened 4 wheel drive capability. I do plan if I keep the jeep through next winter to place a switch on the fuse for the ABS pump to turn it off when I get stuck. It would seem to me that this would help a great deal, at least I won’t be dragging a locked up wheel while trying to remove myself from deep snow.
dusty
Try Low Range...... I got stuck in some deep sand and recall thinking the front
end was engaged so I shifted into low range just to make sure and as it turned out I got my self out. Maybe low range disables it for some reason..
If ound this reference in:
http://www.lemonfree.com/reviews.php?year=2002&make=JEEP&model=LIBERTY
The brakes work well and are the same in all models with discs in front, drums in the rear. ABS ($600) is optional, and they work well: In low range, the anti-lock brake system allows some wheel lock for off-road situations -- such as descending steep gravel hills -- where skidding is a good thing. On the road, the ABS allows less skidding for improved control steering control, but there is some lockup for shorter stopping distances.
My CRD came with ABS and I have not had any issues with it. As to the four wheel drive system on the CRD, I found that plowing through twenty plus inches of snow was easy and I never had any control issues nor have I ever been stuck. I prefer the option of engaging AWD when I need it or want it.
I replaced the fan belt, timing belt, pump, thermostat, and fan clutch (which never did work right).
They also found a leak in a transmission cooler line.
It now warms up like it should, and the TC chatter is virtually eliminated.
I am going on the road next month and hope to see it the overheating problem is gone too.
My mileage is also up some.
You will choke on the price of the timing belt and thermostat. That is the price of an import.
We were shocked. It has 80,000 miles on it. The extended warranty we were offered only went tot 5 years or 60,000 miles. When we called the Customer Service dept. of Chrysler/Jeep, at the suggestion of the dealer, we were basically told it is out of warranty and they couldn't help us.
Besides the fact that the diesel gets better gas mileage, diesel motors generally last longer and so we were not expecting to put this kind of major repairs into this vehicle at this early date.
When we ask if this has been a problem in other Jeep Liberty diesels, we are basically told that they didn't sell enough of them to know.
Has anyone had a similar problem with theirs? Does anyone have suggestions about repair of this problem and if this is a fair price?
Thanks for any helpful comments.
Ruth16
Today, had sudden development of shifting difficulty (auto trans in CRD, of course), manifest esp. as slow engagement--like prolonged slippage of clutch if it had been man tran-- and improper/failure to shift to higher gear. Check engine light now on. Stopped at local auto parts place, pulled codes using their OBD handheld comp. device. Got codes P0700 (Transmission control system malfunction) and P0750 (shift solenoid A malfunction).
On drive home, shifting actually some better, though not willing to say "normal". Ideas, suggestions? Hoping to get it in for dealer's service dept. to take another crack at it ASAP. Do I need to plan on a second mortgage?
They acknowledge that the shift solenoid is malfunctioning--or was--but say that they can't diagnose the specific difficulty without the vehicle actually malfunctioning--it could be something not giving proper signal to or appropriately connecting with the solenoid, for instance. Why such other abnormality wouldn't/didn't give a DTC wasn't explained.
The vehicle stayed at the dealer overnight for them to drive this AM. Haven't heard from them yet whether the problem was reproduced today, though of course am skeptical it will, being the nature of these things.
I'm not expecting a good outcome from this, and am horribly frustrated by unreliability of vehicle now. Had plans for trips out of state this summer that are now canceled because vehicle is unreliable.
I'd love to love my Jeep again, but it's getting difficult to imagine that happening.
In my previous vehicle, a 1993 Dodge Dakota 4X2, I had the trans rebuilt and had a kit put in. What a difference it made. The shifts were quick and firm and the rear wheels would chirp at each shift under hard acceleration. I am not looking for the same on the CRD but I want a firmer and faster shift.
There is new code that goes with the F37 so I am wondering if the tech who did the work fouled something up.
I am on TC number three. The TC is the weak link in the drivetrain. When the 7/70 on my '05 goes away, I will be replacing the Mopar TC with a Suncoast, PATC. or ATS TC plus I will add a shift kit.
The torque converters I mentioned all have furnace brazed metal fins and either Kevlar or carbon fiber clutch facings. One of them has multiple clutch disks, but I cannot remember which one it is.
Total TC lockup should be at 57 MPH. At 53 MPH, you have only partial clutch engagement. If the engine is turning 2100 RPM at 40 MPH, then there is something else going on. Check to make sure the trans fluid level is up to where it should be. Also, when the recall was done, was the front pump in the trans changed out? If not, this could be part of your problem. Low line pressure from a weak pump is a problem.
Are you inadvertently disengaging the overdrive?
You need to find another garage with a competent tech. They have the shift points wrong and or simply screwed things up when they did the recall.
Call Chrysler and see if they will help you out. If you work with them and keep your cool, they will help. I understand your frustration, just do not let it get the best of you.
I'm not as disturbed by all this because when I want good mileage I take my new Jetta TDI on the road and that can pull 50 highway in mid summer.
My shift points are 52 and 61 for the lockup and it shifts into the highest non lockup gear at 35. Then it rolls right up to 52 in that gear. I'm interested in hearing from other folks what they are experiencing.
The dealer rolls his eyes when I come in. They aren't welcoming, they're tolerant. After talking to other Jeep service departments (horrible) I'll settle for tolerant. I would buy another one but would need to interview the service managers at different dealerships before I would buy another Jeep. The service experience really can color your perception of a vehicle. Mine breaks down very infrequently but when it does I dread visiting them. Other cars I've had have had more trouble but because service is done well you kind of don't care. Not so with the crd.
My problems with surging and bucking were solved when the Turbo was replaced (thank you extended warranty). Currently runs fine. My only complaint is that after only 68,000 miles the seat bottom on the drivers side is cracking and splitting. They want $500 for new cushion or I can have it reupholstered for $250 at a custom interiors place near me. Just think that kind of thing should last.
Highway mileage is still good. It gets 23 on the highway when it's -15F and I've seen 31 on two cross country trips-- it was hot outside on both of them. Headwinds and tailwinds are a big factor.
The tech at my dealer told me that I have the correct software update in the controller for the trans.
At 45 MPH, the tach shows about 1800 revs (2100 if OD is locked out).
It is interesting how a dealer service center can set the tone. I am perhaps fortunate to have a decent dealer with a good service department which allows customer access to the technicians. The diesel tech has taught me numerous good tricks and made good suggestions in terms of caring for the CRD.
I am surprised at the number of people who have had to have turbos replaced. This is my second vehicle with a turbo and so far so good. The first one I had was a 1985 Dodge Daytona turbo and except for a couple of blown head gaskets and a broken engine controller, it ran fine. Turbo failure, for the most part, is due to improper care in the form of crappy oil and not letting the turbo cool down correctly.
If the dealer did not or has not delivered as they should, report them to Chrysler and the BBB and I am sure there are others who can help you.
The Jeep Liberty CRD is not a bad vehicle but it is a little quirky. My CRD is now on it's third TC. I also had a timing belt pullet replaced because of a squeaking I heard. The belt was also replaced. I have also picked up a load of really bad fuel that my dealer took care of for me at no cost. I am on my third set of intake hoses but these have lasted nearly 40K miles. A trick that the tech taught me has helped.
As to using the Delvac oil, which is not a synthetic, that is your choice. However, should you have a component failure and Chrysler finds this oil in the crankcase, the warranty on component would be null and void. Any manufacturer will kill the warranty on a component(s) if the owner uses items not in the owner's manual.
As to your Ford 7.3L, is in my view is the only real diesel Ford ever put in their trucks. The 6.4L and 6.0L are horrible engines, basically garbage.
Give you $1000 for your CRD before it reaches the cliff! He he. I have had mine since 2005 and after I found the right mechanic and info never had a problem again. I have 170K on it and I get 31 MPG hiway and 27 MPG city.
As to the transmission, I agree that the TC is the weak link in the system, but like every other auto manufacturer including Ford and Toyota, they will use the cheapest component they can get away with. The rest of the trans is a stout piece of equipment.
And as to Ford bringing a diesel (small) SUV or pickup to the U.S., forget it. It is not going to happen. Ford will keep their small diesels in Europe. The American public is to stupid to appreciate the economy of a diesel even if the fuel costs a bit more. And yes, the 7.3L was a good engine. The succeeding PowerTrash diesel engines are trash and need to be pushed over a cliff. I find Ford's engineering prowess to be lacking when you need to remove the whole cab from the truck to work on the engine.
Joe
Finally found a dealership in Az (where I bought the CRD) who had parts,tools and Tech to replace timing belt for $1,500. Called around SoCal and out of 3 dealers one said his tech could do it for $750. I drove to the dealership to meet with the Tech and tell them what I was quoted in Az. Wanted them to make sure they had the tools and knew what they were getting in to. Tech is a diesel specialist but has never changed the belt on a CRD.
I gave them the VIN number and told them to research over the weekend and if they were confident they could complete the job to call me Monday.
If anyone has had to replace their timing belt, please relate your experience to me. A $750 difference is a lot of Coors Lite !! Plus two nights in hotel, 600 mile round trip, rental car, meals,ect...Thanks, Ed
If they will, that would be great, because this is an expensive maintenance item.
I had the 70,000 mile warrenty and was I lucky, had to replace entire rear differential because a scored shaft cause a seal to fail..I now have 126,000 on my 2006 because I usually drive over 50,000 miles per year when the economy is good.
Any information on the Timing Belt is appreciated.
When the dealer changed my belt at 60,000 miles the technician removed the fan plus shroud without disconnecting the A/C. This left a twist in the aluminum pipes where they pass underneath the thin steel cover/profile that runs across the engine compartment. I don't know if he was small enough to get in there but nothing else was taken apart
You need to maintain in their position the 3 main pulleys before you loosen the timing belt. I once saw the sketch of a dedicated tooling to do this and I remember that the two lower balancing shafts were not related to the crankshaft position. I could be wrong here...
Old belt looked like new at 128,000 miles, sorry I wasted the money. On the way back crossing the Colorado River at Blythe, I stopped by a Jeep dealer there and they quoted me $600.....but they had never done one before just like another dealer in Perris, Ca who at the last minute admitted he did not know what he was getting into....Sounds like heart surgery !!! Next stop, F-250 !!
Dealer had it for a week and ended up just changing the battery. Said they checked the charging system and it's fine. The strange part is it will start for the rest of the day. I end up getting it started by just turning the key over and over in the morning until the gas gauge reads.
Any ideas?