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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The CRD four wheel drive system is not a full time system such as on the Subaru, Hyundai or others. I make the decision when to engage or disengage 4WD and not a computer and a set of clutches. Also, I have part time and full time 4WD (HI) and full time (LO). The latter is used for climbing up steep grades, slogging through mud and pulling out stuck Subaru' s and stuck Kia's that are trying to be Jeeps.

    Since AWD systems always have some level of engagement in 4WD, there is more and tear on the system and more overall fuel consumption.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    I am very frustrated with the 4 wheel drive system on the Jeep, because if the ESC I was stuck several times this year in my own driveway. There is no way to fully disengage ESC, it is hard enough trying to pull yourself out of a hole without having the computer bog the engine down to almost an idle and trying to drag at least one locked up wheel because of the ABS.

    If this element had not been involved I know it would have pulled its self out, hell even my wife’s Sonata will completely disengage the ESC when you push the release button. I have owned AWD vehicles in the past and aside from ground clearance they are far superior in snow and on slick surfaces than the 4 wheel drive system of the Liberty.

    This is another reason for deciding the trade (which because of economics I may not be able to) I don’t know why Jeep won’t let you decide when the need arises to let you completely disengage the ESC. In my opinion it is the Achilles heel of the Liberty.

    I am not here to trash the Liberty diesel in fact in my previous post I bragged on its strengths and I have really enjoyed its ownership the last 2 years but I do worry about repair cost and the weakened 4 wheel drive capability. I do plan if I keep the jeep through next winter to place a switch on the fuse for the ABS pump to turn it off when I get stuck. It would seem to me that this would help a great deal, at least I won’t be dragging a locked up wheel while trying to remove myself from deep snow.

    dusty
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    edited March 2010
    Dusty:

    Try Low Range...... I got stuck in some deep sand and recall thinking the front
    end was engaged so I shifted into low range just to make sure and as it turned out I got my self out. Maybe low range disables it for some reason..
    If ound this reference in:
    http://www.lemonfree.com/reviews.php?year=2002&make=JEEP&model=LIBERTY

    The brakes work well and are the same in all models with discs in front, drums in the rear. ABS ($600) is optional, and they work well: In low range, the anti-lock brake system allows some wheel lock for off-road situations -- such as descending steep gravel hills -- where skidding is a good thing. On the road, the ABS allows less skidding for improved control steering control, but there is some lockup for shorter stopping distances.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    When I purchased my CRD, I did not opt for the ESC. Any Chrysler product be it AWD, two wheel drive, etc. that comes with ESC has the same issue in that you can only partially disable it.

    My CRD came with ABS and I have not had any issues with it. As to the four wheel drive system on the CRD, I found that plowing through twenty plus inches of snow was easy and I never had any control issues nor have I ever been stuck. I prefer the option of engaging AWD when I need it or want it.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    My water pump started leaking at 171000 mi.
    I replaced the fan belt, timing belt, pump, thermostat, and fan clutch (which never did work right).
    They also found a leak in a transmission cooler line.
    It now warms up like it should, and the TC chatter is virtually eliminated.
    I am going on the road next month and hope to see it the overheating problem is gone too.
    My mileage is also up some.
    You will choke on the price of the timing belt and thermostat. That is the price of an import.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I had to pay 1,400 USD for the timing belt alone at 60,000 miles and a few hundreds more for the oil seal of the drive line going into the rear differential. This is nonsense and the burial of Chrysler's reputation. I was told they sold "0" Liberty last year in my region.
  • ruth16ruth16 Member Posts: 1
    We have enjoyed our 2006 Jeep Liberty diesel. It's great to have the 4 wheel drive in the winter. Great gas mileage. Recently we noticed an oil spot under the vehicle in the garage. We had recently had the oil changed and thought maybe something just did not get tighten down. The dealer diagnosed the problem saying the seal of the turbocharger had failed and it was leaking oil into the cooler. The replacement of turbocharger, hoses , cooler, pipe and gaskets was going to run around $2,600.
    We were shocked. It has 80,000 miles on it. The extended warranty we were offered only went tot 5 years or 60,000 miles. When we called the Customer Service dept. of Chrysler/Jeep, at the suggestion of the dealer, we were basically told it is out of warranty and they couldn't help us.
    Besides the fact that the diesel gets better gas mileage, diesel motors generally last longer and so we were not expecting to put this kind of major repairs into this vehicle at this early date.
    When we ask if this has been a problem in other Jeep Liberty diesels, we are basically told that they didn't sell enough of them to know.
    Has anyone had a similar problem with theirs? Does anyone have suggestions about repair of this problem and if this is a fair price?
    Thanks for any helpful comments.
    Ruth16
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    glad i had a wrrty when it happen to me...the turbo can blow if the engine is redlined and especially if using less than synthetic oil of rotella quality. you have a mess for sure.
  • cato42cato42 Member Posts: 2
    05 Liberty CRD with 45k miles. No significant history until lately. Few weeks ago, developed problem with occasional sudden RPM drop and even stalling when coming to stop. No problem found, no codes discovered with OBD check at dealer. Resumed driving, problem somewhat lessened but still extant.

    Today, had sudden development of shifting difficulty (auto trans in CRD, of course), manifest esp. as slow engagement--like prolonged slippage of clutch if it had been man tran-- and improper/failure to shift to higher gear. Check engine light now on. Stopped at local auto parts place, pulled codes using their OBD handheld comp. device. Got codes P0700 (Transmission control system malfunction) and P0750 (shift solenoid A malfunction).

    On drive home, shifting actually some better, though not willing to say "normal". Ideas, suggestions? Hoping to get it in for dealer's service dept. to take another crack at it ASAP. Do I need to plan on a second mortgage?
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    UPDATE: On taking above 05 CRD in to dealer first thing yesterday AM, it was driving okay, though CEL lit still. When they got around to starting and running it yesterday, though, CEL no longer lit, and driving "normally". The technician pulled same codes I did.

    They acknowledge that the shift solenoid is malfunctioning--or was--but say that they can't diagnose the specific difficulty without the vehicle actually malfunctioning--it could be something not giving proper signal to or appropriately connecting with the solenoid, for instance. Why such other abnormality wouldn't/didn't give a DTC wasn't explained.

    The vehicle stayed at the dealer overnight for them to drive this AM. Haven't heard from them yet whether the problem was reproduced today, though of course am skeptical it will, being the nature of these things.

    I'm not expecting a good outcome from this, and am horribly frustrated by unreliability of vehicle now. Had plans for trips out of state this summer that are now canceled because vehicle is unreliable.

    I'd love to love my Jeep again, but it's getting difficult to imagine that happening.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The RFE 545 trans is a pretty solid transmission. The only weak link is the torque converter which the engine will eat alive. Has your CRD had the F37 recall? Have you been keeping up with fluid changes? Also, Transgo has a couple of shift kits to resolve some design issues in the RFE 545, including how it shifts. I am putting one in my CRD in the next few months. I prefer a firmer, faster shift over what Chrysler has given us here.

    In my previous vehicle, a 1993 Dodge Dakota 4X2, I had the trans rebuilt and had a kit put in. What a difference it made. The shifts were quick and firm and the rear wheels would chirp at each shift under hard acceleration. I am not looking for the same on the CRD but I want a firmer and faster shift.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I've had the F37 recall. Lost 10 mpg. The recall raises shift speed to 64 mph to get into high gear. If you have not done the recall DON'T. The torque converter has plastic vanes inside. The idiot Chrysler engineers should be fired for stupidity.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Somebody must have fouled something up when they did the F37 recall. I did not lose any fuel economy at all, just a little pulling power when climbing steep, long grades. The shift points remained the same with the final shift/TC lockup at 57 MPH.

    There is new code that goes with the F37 so I am wondering if the tech who did the work fouled something up.

    I am on TC number three. The TC is the weak link in the drivetrain. When the 7/70 on my '05 goes away, I will be replacing the Mopar TC with a Suncoast, PATC. or ATS TC plus I will add a shift kit.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    What is the code that goes with the F37? Does the Suncoast have plastic in the TC? My 5th gear goes in at 53 mph. Around town at 40 to 45 mph the engine is taching about 2100. This is the main reason for lousy mileage.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The code or software that comes with the F37 recall detunes the engine by 6% and also modifies how the clutches in the TC engage/slip.

    The torque converters I mentioned all have furnace brazed metal fins and either Kevlar or carbon fiber clutch facings. One of them has multiple clutch disks, but I cannot remember which one it is.

    Total TC lockup should be at 57 MPH. At 53 MPH, you have only partial clutch engagement. If the engine is turning 2100 RPM at 40 MPH, then there is something else going on. Check to make sure the trans fluid level is up to where it should be. Also, when the recall was done, was the front pump in the trans changed out? If not, this could be part of your problem. Low line pressure from a weak pump is a problem.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    This morning I wondered how I could get 2100 RPM on the tach at 45 MPH and the only way I could achieve this was by locking out the overdrive which is denoted by a light on the left side of the instrument cluster. It is engaged/disengaged by a button on the shift lever.

    Are you inadvertently disengaging the overdrive?
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    With gentle acceleration to 45 or 50 mph, not touching the lockout, she'll go around 2100 plus rpm. 5th gear doesn't happen until 53 mph. The idiots at the Chrysler garage just tell me that this is the way Chrysler wants it.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Warren,

    You need to find another garage with a competent tech. They have the shift points wrong and or simply screwed things up when they did the recall.

    Call Chrysler and see if they will help you out. If you work with them and keep your cool, they will help. I understand your frustration, just do not let it get the best of you.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    Hmmm. I tested mine and it is at 2100 at 45mph and 2500 when I disengage OD. I had overheating issues after the recall and my mileage dropped 3 mpg. I figured this was why, it mostly got hot on mountain roads where I was climbing and doing 40-45 mph. They did some kind of reprogramming to my temp gauge and I can't tell if that fixed it because we haven't done any mountain driving since. Trans fluid levels are normal and I'm up to date on the transmission fluid and filters change. Yes both filters, the flat one and the canister.

    I'm not as disturbed by all this because when I want good mileage I take my new Jetta TDI on the road and that can pull 50 highway in mid summer.

    My shift points are 52 and 61 for the lockup and it shifts into the highest non lockup gear at 35. Then it rolls right up to 52 in that gear. I'm interested in hearing from other folks what they are experiencing.

    The dealer rolls his eyes when I come in. They aren't welcoming, they're tolerant. After talking to other Jeep service departments (horrible) I'll settle for tolerant. I would buy another one but would need to interview the service managers at different dealerships before I would buy another Jeep. The service experience really can color your perception of a vehicle. Mine breaks down very infrequently but when it does I dread visiting them. Other cars I've had have had more trouble but because service is done well you kind of don't care. Not so with the crd.

    My problems with surging and bucking were solved when the Turbo was replaced (thank you extended warranty). Currently runs fine. My only complaint is that after only 68,000 miles the seat bottom on the drivers side is cracking and splitting. They want $500 for new cushion or I can have it reupholstered for $250 at a custom interiors place near me. Just think that kind of thing should last.

    Highway mileage is still good. It gets 23 on the highway when it's -15F and I've seen 31 on two cross country trips-- it was hot outside on both of them. Headwinds and tailwinds are a big factor.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I am finding the information about the shift points you have as interesting as Warren9's.

    The tech at my dealer told me that I have the correct software update in the controller for the trans.

    At 45 MPH, the tach shows about 1800 revs (2100 if OD is locked out).

    It is interesting how a dealer service center can set the tone. I am perhaps fortunate to have a decent dealer with a good service department which allows customer access to the technicians. The diesel tech has taught me numerous good tricks and made good suggestions in terms of caring for the CRD.

    I am surprised at the number of people who have had to have turbos replaced. This is my second vehicle with a turbo and so far so good. The first one I had was a 1985 Dodge Daytona turbo and except for a couple of blown head gaskets and a broken engine controller, it ran fine. Turbo failure, for the most part, is due to improper care in the form of crappy oil and not letting the turbo cool down correctly.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I am displeased with Chrysler and will never by another product from them. I change my oil every 2000 miles and only use Mobile Delvac 1300. I use that in my service truck which has a 7.3, weighs 12000 pounds, has 227,546 miles and has never had a problem. Once Ford comes out with a small SUV diesel the jeep is history.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I am sorry that your experience with a bad dealer has left you down in the mouth about Chrysler. If you look around, there are plenty of bad Ford, Chevrolet, BMW, GMC and Mercedes dealers.

    If the dealer did not or has not delivered as they should, report them to Chrysler and the BBB and I am sure there are others who can help you.

    The Jeep Liberty CRD is not a bad vehicle but it is a little quirky. My CRD is now on it's third TC. I also had a timing belt pullet replaced because of a squeaking I heard. The belt was also replaced. I have also picked up a load of really bad fuel that my dealer took care of for me at no cost. I am on my third set of intake hoses but these have lasted nearly 40K miles. A trick that the tech taught me has helped.

    As to using the Delvac oil, which is not a synthetic, that is your choice. However, should you have a component failure and Chrysler finds this oil in the crankcase, the warranty on component would be null and void. Any manufacturer will kill the warranty on a component(s) if the owner uses items not in the owner's manual.

    As to your Ford 7.3L, is in my view is the only real diesel Ford ever put in their trucks. The 6.4L and 6.0L are horrible engines, basically garbage.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    The 7.3 is pretty much bullet proof. The others are not much. My local dealer has no problem with my Delvac. The dealer is fine it's Chrysler that refuses to admit they used the wrong TC behind a diesel. Three times I've written them and 3 times they did nothing. The Italian diesel is a great piece of machinery. The boilers and burners I buy are made just down the street from Motori. Talking with people over there, these Libertys are getting well over 35 plus mpg. It's all in the computer. Chrysler did not put the proper drive train behind a great little engine.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    Amen to the ford small SUV diesel....My CRD will be over a cliff...What a piece of junk.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    Manual says to replace timing belt and pulleys at 100,000 miles. I thought the CRD had a chain??
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    My 06 CRD has been good, not perfect, but certainly a reliable and sturdy vehicle with tremendous off road and winter skills. Our Jeep dealer has an excellent diesel guy who knows what he is doing.Therefore no service issues. I have had the transmission recall with no problems, It delivers great fuel economy and pulls a trailer with ease. It has been a good 4 years.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I do have a computer Guru working on a program to restore transmission shift speeds and bring engine up to Mfg's. most efficient curve. If all else fails I'll try to find a tighter gear ratio for the Liberty.
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Hello Ed,

    Give you $1000 for your CRD before it reaches the cliff! He he. I have had mine since 2005 and after I found the right mechanic and info never had a problem again. I have 170K on it and I get 31 MPG hiway and 27 MPG city. :)
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As to the oil question, I contacted V.M. Motori shortly after I purchased my Jeep and asked them about which oil to use. Their response was basically that a synthetic was a must.

    As to the transmission, I agree that the TC is the weak link in the system, but like every other auto manufacturer including Ford and Toyota, they will use the cheapest component they can get away with. The rest of the trans is a stout piece of equipment.

    And as to Ford bringing a diesel (small) SUV or pickup to the U.S., forget it. It is not going to happen. Ford will keep their small diesels in Europe. The American public is to stupid to appreciate the economy of a diesel even if the fuel costs a bit more. And yes, the 7.3L was a good engine. The succeeding PowerTrash diesel engines are trash and need to be pushed over a cliff. I find Ford's engineering prowess to be lacking when you need to remove the whole cab from the truck to work on the engine.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    We like ours except for the lousy mileage after the F37 recall. What state are you in? wmco@midcoast.com
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    That's why the newer Fords have 4 bolts and an electrical connector.
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    The most I have ever gotten is about 27 mpg @ 70 mph (highway), Would you mind sharing your mechanic's contact information? Any information you could share would be great. My Jeep is a 2006 Jeep Liberty....

    Joe
  • joshbrown7joshbrown7 Member Posts: 4
    So what do I have to have done to my CRD to get 31 mpg? I like it, but I'd love it if that was the case.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    I may take you up on the offer after next week he he
    Finally found a dealership in Az (where I bought the CRD) who had parts,tools and Tech to replace timing belt for $1,500. Called around SoCal and out of 3 dealers one said his tech could do it for $750. I drove to the dealership to meet with the Tech and tell them what I was quoted in Az. Wanted them to make sure they had the tools and knew what they were getting in to. Tech is a diesel specialist but has never changed the belt on a CRD.
    I gave them the VIN number and told them to research over the weekend and if they were confident they could complete the job to call me Monday.
    If anyone has had to replace their timing belt, please relate your experience to me. A $750 difference is a lot of Coors Lite !! Plus two nights in hotel, 600 mile round trip, rental car, meals,ect...Thanks, Ed
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    I want to see that post too----lucky to get 20 mpg combined !!
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    Seems that the Liberty sucks for mileage after the F37. I have the dealer service manual on CD. Will check on the timing belt. I do all my own maintenance. But, the belt comes under my extended warranty, will have it changed before 60,000.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    Will they change your Timing Belt at 60K even though the manual reccomends 100,000??
    If they will, that would be great, because this is an expensive maintenance item.
    I had the 70,000 mile warrenty and was I lucky, had to replace entire rear differential because a scored shaft cause a seal to fail..I now have 126,000 on my 2006 because I usually drive over 50,000 miles per year when the economy is good.
    Any information on the Timing Belt is appreciated.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    Can't find the location on the CD for the belt but, the guys at the dealership are very good. They have the info if I need it. They have only serviced mine plus a few others. Diesel Jeeps can not be sold new here in Maine. I traded an brand new Magnum in for this Liberty. I will get the info on the belt. I will not believe it's that difficult. A Mercedes is a piece of cake but, a filthy job oil wise.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    What kind of information are you looking for?
    When the dealer changed my belt at 60,000 miles the technician removed the fan plus shroud without disconnecting the A/C. This left a twist in the aluminum pipes where they pass underneath the thin steel cover/profile that runs across the engine compartment. I don't know if he was small enough to get in there but nothing else was taken apart :)
    You need to maintain in their position the 3 main pulleys before you loosen the timing belt. I once saw the sketch of a dedicated tooling to do this and I remember that the two lower balancing shafts were not related to the crankshaft position. I could be wrong here...
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I found the place on my Liberty CD for timing belt. Following the directions it's a very simple but time consuming job. I think a max of 6 hours plus $250 for belt then AF. I'd change those belts all day long for that quoted price of $1500.
  • fishsnifferfishsniffer Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I recently bought the liberty and it's been great but the other day when I started it the engine light came on and when driving it the auto tranny will only shift into the low gears 1,2 and 3. fluids are good but it will not go into 4th and 5th gear.vehicle has about 78k miles Any idea what the problem might be?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Does it go into 3rd lockup? Maybe it thinks the OD switch is on.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    Trans. does all its shifting correctly. The shift speeds have been raised 10 mph thanks to the F37 " engineer screw up fix".
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    No one in SoCal had the tools or expertise to change the timing belt so I drove back to Scottsdale, Az where I bought this piece of junk. Cost me $1,400.00. $1,200.00 was labor for 3 hours. They said they had a progressive scale, boy, they sure do. They also quoted me $250.00 for an oil change.
    Old belt looked like new at 128,000 miles, sorry I wasted the money. On the way back crossing the Colorado River at Blythe, I stopped by a Jeep dealer there and they quoted me $600.....but they had never done one before just like another dealer in Perris, Ca who at the last minute admitted he did not know what he was getting into....Sounds like heart surgery !!! Next stop, F-250 !!
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I looked in my CD it's a piece of cake to change the timing belt. Sorry you got taken. I've never changed a timing belt but after seeing the CD and talking with the local dealer it's a 3 hour job. I do all my own work on my F450 diesel and the stuff not covered under the extended jeep warranty. These Jeep CRD's are illegal here in Maine unless they are used. I wish I could cpy my CD for you but, Chrysler has some kind of block to prevent it. If you're going to buy a Ford diesel be advised that non warranty repairs on the engine are expensive. Major work requires the whole cab to be lifted off. If the oil pan on the 7.3 needs replacing the engine has to come out. I coat my whole underside every spring and fall with used tranny fluid. Not a lick of rust, yet. The old girl is 10 and 229,000 miles. I wont get rid of this truck.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    My 2006 Liberty CRD now has 96k miles on it. I've been thinking about replacing the timing belt but don't want to do it unless it needs it. Any suggestions about how to know when it needs to be done? I certainly don't want to wait for it to fail and damage my engine. I have the 6,000 page+ Jeep Service Manual but have not looked into it yet. I like the more practical advice I get on this forum better than wading through the service manual.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    The solid pulley got me out of a jam and worked fine for a few months. However, about a month or so ago I started hearing increasing noises from under my hood. Sounded way to loud to be just a belt and sounded like the clutch on the AC compressor was about to fly apart. I took it to an AC shop to get it checked out and they said nothing was wrong. To my BIG surprise it turned out that the fixed pulley caused weird stuff to happen with my serpentine belt. I had a "clutch pulley" AKA "Alternator Decouple Pulley in the Service Manual" and the noise went away immediately. Lesson Learned about Clutch Pulleys. They are there for a REAL reason, although it is hard to comprehend and is a bit counterintuitive. I apologize if anyone tried the solid pulley with similar results.
  • joshbrown7joshbrown7 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 05 CRD with 50K on it. I've had this problem of late where when I turn the key in the morning, the interior electronics will come on (radio, heat, etc), but it seems nothing else. The gas gauge won't read, etc. If I turn the key, nothing happens. Doesn't try to turn over. It has an auto start on it and that doesn't work either.

    Dealer had it for a week and ended up just changing the battery. Said they checked the charging system and it's fine. The strange part is it will start for the rest of the day. I end up getting it started by just turning the key over and over in the morning until the gas gauge reads.

    Any ideas?
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    This might not be much use for you but I had a similar problem with a SAAB. It seemed to have something to do with the immobiliser which was released by by a controller in the key. It was recommended that the main CPU be reprogrammed by the dealer. Somedays it would do it and others it wouldn't so I feel your frustration.
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    Change all the fuses even if it looks like they don't need it.
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