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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    edited July 2010
    Good Morning,

    The maintenance required to keep your CRD running well is pretty simple. The boost sensor on top of and on the back of the intake manifold needs to be cleaned every 5000 to 7000 miles with some solvent and a soft toothbrush. The solvent Iike is Castle Solv (the spelling here is correct).

    The other bit of maintenance is what Caribou1 calls "nose blowing". Even my diesel mechanic at the local dealer I use recommends it. Make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Push the button on the side of the gear selector to lock out overdrive. From a dead stop nail the accelerator and hold it to the floor until about 65 MPH. Repeat until no black clouds are emanating from the exhaust. Do this several times weekly afterward to keep the carbon build up in check. I have had the EGR valve replaced once at 14K miles. I am now at 70K miles and no problems since I have been "nose blowing".
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    edited July 2010
    When I start my CRD in the morning after sitting overnight, the idle seems uneven like it is going up and down but not enough to be seen on the tachometer. Once warmed up, the idle is even and smooth.

    Any ideas/suggestions welcome.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    The very first turbo boost carries cold air, and the boost sensor has both temperature and pressure sensing :confuse:
    The EGR may come into action too early as soon as the engine rpm is momentarily higher than idling speed. If I remember correctly the EGR operation is also temperature related; but to which sensor?
    The 'smooth running condition' (discussed here a long time ago) tries to achieve even angular acceleration of the four cylinders. You could have one set of sticky piston rings...
    Apart from fuel dripping between the engine and tranny after one tankful at a steady 75mph, I have nothing to complain about :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Hello Caribou,

    The uneven idle that I described does not occur consistently every morning. I am wondering if the mass airflow sensor could be soiled? I do use a K&N air filter and before this problem started, I had just cleaned it and re-oiled it. I did not over oil the filter.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    I also use a K&N air filter and I've never seen any difference with the original or with the Mann air filters. But I always found I could get better mileage with a slightly dirty filter. In all cases my waste-gate whistles loud and clear, so there is plenty of air going to the engine.
    Your mass airflow sensor could be cleaned with a dish washing detergent, the same applies to our K&N air filter. You could try to disconnect the sensor and see if there is a change in the idling mode. I would avoid thinners and solvents and choose Isopropyl alcohol as a cleaning agent for all sensors because there is a lesser risk of damaging the polymer that provides the electrical integrity of these sensors.
    The pressure release valve of the common rail as well as the fuel pressure sensor could show signs of weakness after a few years :blush:
  • prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    My 2006 Liberty Diesel needs a fuel filter. How do I de-pressurize the line before removing the old filter? And does the new filter re-pressurize the line? Thanks.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    When I changed over to a K&N filter, fuel economy improved as well as reduction in turbo lag. I have never found any oil film on the clean side of the filter.

    As to the MAF, I am going to be pulling it and clean it with MAF cleaner to see if it helps.

    The wife and I went to Florida earlier this month. Fuel economy was good considering that we used the A/C most of the trip and drove at 72 MPH. We averaged 27.1 MPG.

    Once I get the MAF cleaned, I will let you know if there is any change.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    Without any special care I was able to repeat 26.4 MPG at a steady 75 MPH while driving through Spain this summer. I kept the 4WD FULL TIME engaged as well as the A/C. Under these conditions neither the torque converter nor the extra HP you have play a role in the comparison :blush:
    Commuting in heavy traffic takes up to 20% more fuel mainly because I can't accelerate as fast as you can and my T/C just keeps spinning.
    I've had this truck for 7 years and will change whatever is needed to keep it as long as diesel fuel is available :shades:
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    Liberty diesels in Europe must have a different computer that gives the better economy. How do we get foreign computers into USA vehicles?
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    I have to say a special thanks to my Jeep Cherokee/Liberty. It saved me and my son from a stay in hospital but it died in the process! We were hit side on this afternoon by somebody asleep at the wheel of a Volvo Estate. I loved that car and will really, really miss it.
    :( :sick:
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    There is no pressure in the filter. They have no lift pump, unless someone added it.
    It sucks through the filter, so just unscrew it.
    Make sure you get it fully primed when replaced. ;)
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Warren,

    The computers used in Europe are probably the same as we have here. It is the parameters of the software that are different because in Europe they go after different pollutants than they do here in the U.S.

    What gives the Europeans better fuel economy, in my view, is that the fuel is better than here and the engines, at least for now, are less encumbered with pollution control devices. In the next few years, European pollution control specs will be as tight as what we have here.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I had the Blower Motor Recall taken care of back in june and I don't recall useing my electric side mirrors until today and they only work a little and then stop...I was told that they replaced the blower motor and something else that had to do with the speed of the motor because it was blowing full blast or nothing at all "which it was doing & that was the real reason I took it in for the recall"..I was charged for the part that fixed the speed of the blower only !! But I do not know why both of the electric side mirrors will only move slightly and just quit ??
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    thstranger: To tell you honestly, I can't recall how they fixed the mirrors. It has been more than 4 years ago, and Chrysler bought back my CRD on April 4, 2007. My "Green Beast" was in the dealers shop 25 times in 17 months, and I knew all the mechs names by heart. Chrysler called me, I did not even think they reviewed these things!

    However our 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD is the best vehicle we have ever owned! We got the Lifetime Powertrain Warrenty and bought the LifeTime Max Care extended Warranty so maybe this will be the last new vehicle we will have to buy. We have 76,000 miles on the PAC and it gets 24 mpg, so all in all it has been the best thing to happen to us.

    I enjoy getting up dated on this forum, and was supprised to get your note. I hope the CRD works well for you, happy driving!

    farout
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    Thank you for the reply, I really haven't had many problems other than "Recalls" and a transmission solonoid at 1450 miles..The mirrors work when I first start the Jeep but only for a couple adjustments then they won't move. I will most likely not take it to a Dealer as I'm sure they won't have any idea and will spend too much time just trying to figure out the problem, and i'm always affraid that some careless tech will screw something else up. When I got the jeep back from getting the blower motor recall done, I opened the glove box and it just fell off on the floor.The tech didn't even snap it back on so I did it :confuse:
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    Warren9

    You don't have too. To fix all of the problems with the engine's preformance and increase milage PLUS reduce EGR valve issues do what I have done! - GREEN DIESEL ENGINEERING and get their ECO TUNE. Their engineer wrote or co-wrote the ECM program for the CRD Liberty. This ECM program still limits the torque, but only when the torque converter is locked and in overdrive, GDE's ECM engine program makes around 280 ft-lbs when the TC is locked. The F37 program limits it to 260 ft-lbs, When unlocked you have 335 ft-lbs around 1800 RPM amd 188 HP near 4000RPM.
    They also have a tune IF you have the Euro TC which does not limit torque in lock-up. D-C limited the torque as the Stock TC cannot handle all of the torque this motor can produce, hence the SHUTTER when loading the drive train. GDE's program has to do the same as the hardware can not take the loads, so to prevent damaging the TC the torque is limited. I have no affiliation with GDE, other that I have purchased their product. They are on the web.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    Thanks Zoomy, I will look "GDE" up on the net. But how can this fix my mirror's ?
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    thestranger

    I was responding to warren9 question on the ECM program, he wanted the European program. If someone he knew in Europe could upload their program, it then could be emailed to him; then he could download it into his ECM and then he would have the same program: assuming full interchangability. Both would need the correct hardware to do this transfer. Buying the local USA ECO tune would be cheaper. :)

    I am asuming that both mirrors stop working.

    In you case I would check the wiring in the power mirror circuit starting with the fuse, and look very closely to see if there is a relay in the circuit. The relay could have a broken winding that opens when heated dropping out the relay, or have burnt contacts. Use a volt-ohm meter to check each part of the circuit.

    When working on the blower motor the dealer's tech could have pinched a wire, after you move the mirrors do you have to replace a fuse? This circuit could also have a circuit breaker or thermo overload device to protect the mirror motors, these would also need to be checked.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I'm sorry Zoomy, somehow I got confused .....Both mirrors will move maybe in three different directions right after I start the Jeep, then neither of them will move again...seems like the drivers side mirror will move just a little more than the passenger mirror but not by much...I would say that they will move up,down,and maybe to the left or right and then they will not move again till the Jeep is turned off and restarted. I don't move them around often except when pulling and backing the camper I might need to adjust them....
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Yesterday I pulled the MAF on my CRD. It had a light sticky coating of something on most of the surfaces. I used MAF cleaner and discovered that the real working part(s) of the MAF had a thin black coating of goo on them. I checked the inside of the airbox and found no dirt or oil film. I use a K&N filter in my CRD. I will be driving my CRD later today and let you how the cleaning has impacted the way the engine runs.

    CEL came on early last week and I had the dealer interogate the PCM. Number four glowplug is the culprit and I am going to try to replace it myself. Do I need any special tools? I know I will need to move the fuel filter assembly.

    Thanks in advance.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited August 2010
    Hi winter2,
    Deep socket wrenches are used for glow plugs. The only worry is that you need to vacuum clean around the plugs prior to removing them. Any accumulation of dirt between the plug and engine will fall into the cylinder. You can take this opportunity to rinse your engine with low pressure water; most of the gunk is easily removed and the engine compartment will look new :)
    When one plug fails we usually change the four...
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Thanks Caribou. Do you know what size deep socket I will need? I will degrease the engine prior to doing surgery even though it is pretty clean.

    I drove with the cleaned MAF and performance was a bit perkier, the turbo whistled more freely, idle was smoother and shutdown was also also smoother. Took more cranking to get it started. I am wondering if #4 glowplug failed and took all of the glowplugs or if is the result of the MAF cleaning. I will let you know tomorrow.
  • fishncampfishncamp Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    On occasion while towing a 3000# camper I experience a loss of power. If I start from a dead stop and try to accelerate quickly usually 2nd or 3rd gear is where the loss occurs and sometimes there is a jerk with the loss of power. Other times it happens at hwy speed 65-70 and I slowly lose speed and power. After the loss of power I experience the problem of not being able to rev over 3k RPM. And my speed is maxed around 25 and it does not shift. After this happens I can cycle the ignition several times or disconnect the battery and the problem disappears. Just the other day this happened and after disconnecting the trailer and driving on the HWY 65-70 MPH the loss of power occurred again. No lights come on to indicate a problem and I have not attached an OBD tool as I usually get rid of the problem before having one handy. Before going to the stealership I thought I would look here. I have seen some similar reports indicating EGR or CAC hose problems. Any help would be great, I just need to get headed in the right direction. :confuse: Thanks in advance!!

    I should add I clean the EGR and MAF sensor ( I think it is the MAF on top the engine near the back) every oil change.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Have you tried shifting into Neutral to unlatch the tranny and a second later bring it back into gear? I had to do this a few times to get rid of a 'sticky shifting'. This could be caused by a timeout issue in the logic.

    Concerning the side view mirrors that stop working for an unknown reason, I'm in the same situation. I guess it's a cheap 3 cables construction and they got corroded over the years :confuse:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Mine are 16 or 17 mm deep socket, yours may be different. There is no need to over tighten these plugs and I would recommend to put a drop of gun grease or 'Molykote grease' on the thread. Don't forget to disconnect the battery and look for weak (soft) spots on the leads connecting the plugs.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    edited August 2010
    Thanks Caribou. I am going to stop at the dealer after work to glean more info/tricks to make the change easier.

    I am going to use some anti-seize compound on the threads so they do not bind in the heads if I ever have to replace them.

    I find the placement of the glow plugs amazingly bizzare, under the intake manifold. I guess they had no room on top of the head.

    As to the MAF, I drove the Jeep on the highway to work this morning. Had noticeably more power and the sag at 68 MPH is now gone. Also, less smoke too considering that I have almost none. I wonder how often I should clean the MAF, maybe yearly or every six months?
  • fishncampfishncamp Member Posts: 2
    I have not tried that but if/when it happens again I will see if that helps. I also forgot until now when I bought the jeep there was a work record for a "low fuel sensor" issue that caused a similar problem. Any idea what that might be ?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I have read that others have use this valve, so that the threads are no longer disturbed.
    F-102(PF-3/8) Fumoto Oil Drain Valve - Ships Free!
    Change Oil Quick & Clean. Good-bye to Oil Drain Plug.
    They have them on EBAY for $27 with free delivery.
    bob
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    get some Di-Electric grease, radio shack and most electronic places sell it. Whenever you expose an electric connection, put a little on it. Your mirrors sound like a weak connection. Beleive it or not, there are also people whose body chemistry screws with electrical devices, My wife is one of them, We have 5 cars, every one the window control no longer works on her side. Her gold wedding ring disolves and we have to take it to the jeweler and have it re-coated with new gold. She cannot wear a watch with a gold band, it disolves. Wierd but true.
    The Di-electric grease helps maintain a good solid connection, which will increase the life of any motor. A bad connection = low voltage, which will cause premature failure.
    Bob
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    Thanks for the info Uncle Bob, I haven't tryed anything yet....where should i put the di-electric grease exactly ?? thanks again
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I am soon to take Possession of a 2006 Liberty limited CRD. I want to buy a ECO tune as soon as possible. I have ruled out the plug in box's and will be sending in the computer. I have narrowed it down to 21 Companies, In Motion and Green Diesel. In Motion is $350 and Green Diesel is $450. Both sound good green diesel has alot more information on their website but if IN MOtion is similiar and $100 less, I might as well go with them.
    I would appriciate any comments on both Tune Companies.
    Thanks: Bob
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I have the GDE Eco Tune and Trans Tune.
    I am quite happy with it. My mileage is up about 15%. :)
    The only issue with the Trans Tune is that in the hills it can upshift a bit early.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I see their eco tune is $450 how much was the transmission tune?
    Have you installed the stronger torque converter?
    I see many are putting in Transgo shift kits, which all are happy with. They are either $59 or $95 depending on the kit. Seems like a good first step.
    Thanks: Bob
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I caught the spring special for about $700.
    I have a newer TC but not the Euro. It seems to be working OK
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    unclebob9,

    The big difference is fuel milage, ECO tune will be about 4-6 MPG better. My first tank I got 4 MPG improvement at 70MPH and a heavy foot because the extra power was fun.
    Now if you have a replacement TC like Suncoast or the Jeep's EURO TC (from the Diesel Wrangler) then they have a FULL TORQUE ECO Tune with does not limit the engine's torque to 280 ft-lbs when in overdrive and TC is locked, you get 335 ft-lbs (1800 RPM). They also have a HOT tune with 200 HP and if I remember, 365 ft-lbs torque. GDE has a new turbo kit for even more....
    I also looked at the InMotion program as it was $100 cheaper but GDE's also improved milage which my research on the web didn't support a milage increase of the InMotion program. I drove up to GDE to have the program installed.
    Now I just have to save-up to have the TC replaced so I can have the FULL TORQUE upgrade.

    Since the reprogram I have noticed:
    NO BLACK SMOKE at all
    Quicker acceration (they claim 1.5 seconds 0-60 MPH)
    Increased milage (fill to fill as I have a sport model)
    Better trailer towing (18' hardside camper near 4400# loaded)
    Can squeal tires on pavement (locking axle and Firestone A/T 235R-17)
    Improved drive-a-bility in daily driving.
    It does sound a little more like a diesel than it use to....
    Oh the gas gauge is more linear and the temperature gauge is more accurate. I did notice the speedometer is now reading 1 mph less then my GPS says which wasn't the case before....
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Thanks, great information. I was leaning towards the green diesel eco tune anyway, just needed some justification for the extra $100.
    The Transgo shift kit, I have also read lots of positive reviews on. They have 2 versions one $55 and the other $95, have yet to call them to find out the difference.
    between them, I will probably do this while my computer is sent to GD.
    It also supposedly increased MPG a bit.
    I have not been able to find a Cold air intake system for the Liberty CRD so far. I may end up building my own as I had to do for my 92 Dodge cummins. It gave the Dodge 3 more MPG and a little more power.
    Bob
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    Unclebob9,

    You mean like a Safari SS1135HF snorkel is tough and stylish and has been designed to deliver a huge volume of the coolest and cleanest air possible into the stock air cleaner assembly of the powerful KJ Jeep Cherokee CRD.

    http://www.safarisnorkel.com/snorkel/ss1135hf/ss1135hf.htm

    Many CRD owners change -out to the V6's air intake for increased air flow.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Interesting, I did not consider a snorkel. But I will now. I hate the idea of cutting into the fender to install it, and I would be concerned about some drunk kids in a parking lot tearing it out. but definitely worth thinking about!
    I actually built something similiar for my 40' diesel pucher motorhome, it now has Ram Air thru the roof. It's interesting how much it effected the shifting patterns and I would bet I gained 50hp with it. Does this snorkel hook into the stock air box?
    Thansk: Bob
  • james191james191 Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the forum. We have 4 Liberty Diesels with an average of 125K miles. We are having a lot of problems with starting, coolant loss and turbo issues. We have 20 cars and trucks in our fleet and do most of all the work ourselves. I am having a hard time finding good shop manuals for the 2005 and 2006 Liberty diesels. We need electrical and mechanical manuals. Can anyone suggest a place to get these.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I own and maintain four personal vehicles, one of which is a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 105k miles. I do all of my own maintenance on my Jeep and hope to be able to keep it going for several hundred thousand miles. The CRD requires significant knowledge & effort to keep running properly but I am generally very happy with my CRD despite the many problems & 'buy-backs" that have been reported in this forum. Most of the really good information about my CRD has come from participating in this forum. You have come to the right place in my opinion.

    The $20.00 Chiltons and Haynes service manuals (I have many) are good for basic information, but what you really need is the Factory Service Manual created by the manufacturer.

    I have had great luck finding Factory Service Manuals on E-Bay. I have purchased several full sets in great condition for as low as $45.00 for my daughter's 2004 Dodge Stratus. I have the CD/DVD Factory Service Manuals for my Jeep. It is nice to have the paper books, but with the searchable electronic version finding what you need is faster. Then you can print only the secitions or pages you need for each repair job. All of my paper manuals eventually got dirty & stained because I almost always need to refer to it while doing the work.

    Good luck with all those CRDs.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    There is a CD version on EBAY now for about $12 and a 3 manual set for $199 (or so). Amazon.com has the same set for $179 (there-abouts).
    With 4 jeeps, I would go for the $179 set If I had 4 of them. I am most likely going for the CD for now but I will eventuallly break down and spent the big bucks.
    I jsut bought my CRD.
    Take some time and read the positings here, there are several little upgrades that increase power, MPG and extend service times.
    Best of luck: Bob
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    edited August 2010
    James:

    Here is the link for the 2006 service manual:
    http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf

    There most everything you will need in there.......
    Be patient it takes awhile for it to load..... 140M....

    Have a hunt around their site you may find more....
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Thanks James, it is a GREAT thing to have, and hard to beat the price!
    I played with it for about an hour, While I still prefer the hard copy, for the $200 price difference, I will ry really hard learn to use this one.
    I fly back to pick up my 2006 crd next Thursday. It's in O'Dessa, Tx. which is 1500 miles from me. I have never driven a CRD before, so we will get aquainted very fast!
    Thanks again: Bob
  • mooncrdmooncrd Member Posts: 1
    2005 crd 133000 miles straight pipe mass air flow sensor not hooked up more power never smokes 28 mpg bought new great jeep round trip to work 144 miles
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Just smear a little on the metal part of the connector (or spade) before plugging it together.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I used to have this problem with my 66 GTO and now with my 2000 Cherokee. What it was and is for both vehicles is a bad connection at the firewall where the electronics plug in to each other at the firewall. I wiggle the wire a little and all is fine until the next time.
    Just something to try
  • lippslipps Member Posts: 10
    Good Morning:
    I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 120k miles. Last evening, while at a stoplight the oil light came on. When the engine rpm was increased to about 1200 the light went off. When I got home I changed the oil even though it only had 3700 miles. It was 100 degrees here in Houston, don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
    Any thoughts?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Are you using the recommended oil and filter? Did you change the filter as well?
    If so, I would check the sending unit for connection and cleanliness. and possibly replace it. Thr hotter it gets the thicker the oil gets. But 100 in Houston is not unusual.
    Is the temp reading in the normal range when this happens?
    Bob
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As most of us know, the CCV (looks like a hockey puck) sits on the valve cover at the back of the engine. I recently had visited my local dealer and spoke to the diesel tech about some oil leakage from the CCV.

    The tech suggested that the CCV had some deposits in it and that this was causing the problem. Instead of replacing it, I learned that the CCV can be cleaned with a mild solvent like Castle Solv or brake cleaner. I did the cleaning on Sunday and there was some sludge or goo inside that the solvent removed. Once I reassembled everything I used a little Indian Head Shellac (gasket cement) on the hose that comes off the CCV to make sure there is no leakage.

    I have driven the CRD since then and I have noticed a couple of things. First the up and down idle in the morning is now gone and idle is actually smoother all around. Second, the turbo spools up faster and with more punch even under light acceleration and with the windows down you hear the turbo happily whistling away when you demand any kind of boost/power.

    When you pull the CCV, do it on a cold engine. You will need an 8mm socket and a flexible joint or a short extension to remove the rear bolt. There are three bolts that hold the CCV in place. When you remove the CCV, pull it out gently and be sure you retain the two O-ring gaskets. Clean the O-rings gently (no solvent), coat them with a high temperature grease and put them aside for now. Spray solvent into all of the openings of the CCV and swish it around to get rid of whatever sludge or goo you have in the CCV. Repeat until the solvent comes out clean. Put the CCV aside and let it dry. Do not try to open it or disassemble it ( the tech warned me about this). Once dry, put some of the same grease on the tubes that plug into the valve cover. On the valve cover, clean the two openings with a bit of solvent on a rag to clean the seats where the O-rings sit. Put some of the same grease in the grooves where the O-rings reside and then put the O-rings in making sure they are firmly seated in the grooves. Gently place the CCV on the openings and push firmly to seat it. Secure it with the three bolts and reattach the hose. Took me all of twenty minutes to do.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    From what I have learned, Chrysler no longer supports the use of Mobil 1 0W-40 in this engine. In fact, Chrysler now gets its synthetic oil from Pennzoil.

    I am using an oil from Europe called Lubro Moly. It is a full synthetic 5W-40 CF rated oil.
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