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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I would check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before doing anything else. You need ~15 psi at idle speed and ~40 psi while cruising; such oil pressures were considered safe during many years :)
    I have almost the same mileage on my CRD and I change oil + filter every 15,000 miles. I expect signs of wear at some point :confuse:
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited August 2010
    Hi winter2,
    Why in the world did you choose Lubro Moly?
    35 years ago we got rid of this type of lubricant because once you start using it you must keep it. Piston ring wear became greater and those who went back to normal oil produced oil fumes. This was the oil chosen by Citroen in the 60's ;)

    http://antarama.free.fr/Documents_relook/04_02_huiles_antar.html
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    lippslipps Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Bob:
    It was the sending unit. replaced it ($71) and it all works fine.

    By the way for those on the forum who havent installed a Provent yet, they are worth their weight in gold! Helps with oil and EGR issues.
    Get about an ounce per 1000 miles that would have gone into the intercooler!
    Dave
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I did not realize that there was a problem with Lubro Moly oils as you say. The retailer told me that Porsche drivers, turbo and non-turbo, swear by this stuff. At the Lubro Moly website, it even lists the oil I am using as one of the correct ones for the CRD.

    Based on your comments, I will switch to something else when I change the oil this weekend either Valvoline or Pennzoil. Both make synthetics designed for the CRD engine.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Many Porsche engines were of "boxer" design, ie horizontal / flat cylinders. We can understand the need of a 'super lubricant' to reduce the effect of gravity in those cylinders. In the late 60's the 911S had thick chrome plating inside the cylinders where the piston rings came into contact. Diamond shaped oil retaining pockets were machined along the stroke of the pistons, and they did not recommend 'Moly xxx' at the time. The CRD engine is much, much simpler :blush:
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    The Lubro Moly oil that I use is a straight synthetic oil. It does not contain the "super lubricant" you speak of, MoS2 or Molybdenum Disulfide. Lubro Moly still makes oils with this substance as part of the formulation and several are recommended for use in diesel engines including the one in the CRD.
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    siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Recently changed fuel filter at 75k miles and cut it open (last change 50k). Filter material was darker than one cut open at 25K miles in Aug 06. Unrolling the filter material revealed black crud along the complete length of one edge of 75k filter that 25k filter did not have. This doesn’t really mean that much. I was just expecting cleaner fuel today than 4 years ago.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    There are a few key points when fueling.
    1. Avoid stations that do not sell alot of Diesel.
    2. NEVER get fuel when the tanker is unloading into the stations tank. this stire up sediment at the bottom of the tank and you will pump it right into your tank!
    3. All it takes is one bad tank of fuel to clog up a filter, I got one once in a gas vehicle, although it had mcch smaller filters, I went through 6 of them before I got my tank cleaned out.
    bob
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    siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Unclebob9,

    Tell me something that I have not read 100 times. I posted one observation, nothing more. Take it for what it is worth, or not.

    I attended a diesel seminar years ago and was told that the main reason for not filling up when a tanker is unloading is because the churning can cause the station pump to pick up water. I have never filled up when a tanker was unloading and I have never found water in my fuel in either of my diesels. What I found in my fuel filter was apparently small enough to get through the station filters. Hence, what is the definition of clean fuel?

    I was also instructed to avoid large truck stops that service over the road trucks because of the possibility of used oil being dumped into the station fuel tanks. One of the instructors was a retired oil company engineer. Does that make it true? I don't know. :)
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    edited September 2010
    Hi,

    I just replaced #4 glowplug in under an hour. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Just make sure the engine is cold as you are working with an aluminum alloy head. Also, make sure everything is clean so no foreign material gets into the cylinder. Make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.

    You will need the following items:
    1. Metric Socket Set with a 13mm socket and a 10mm socket (3/8 inch drive)
    2. 10mm deep socket (got one at NAPA for $5.00)
    3. Flexible joint for the socket set.
    4. One eight inch extension.

    1. Remove the hoses from the fuel filter.
    2. Remove fuel filter assembly and put it to one side.
    3. Reach under the intake and feel for the glowplug and wire. Once found remove the wire gently. Much of what you will do here is by feel as it is out of line of sight. You cannot get to this from the bottom. This job is done by feel.
    4. Placed the 10 mm deep socket over the glowplug, then plug in the flexible joint, then the extension and finally the wrench itself. Turn the wrench anti-clockwise to remove the glowplug. I loosened it and then turned the extension without the wrench. This went faster.
    5. Remove the glowplug and set it aside.
    6. Get your new glowplug and put a tiny bit of anti-seize compound on the threads. Place the new glowplug in the hole and start screwing it in using the 10mm deep socket. Screw in by hand until you can turn it no further. Attach the flexible joint, etc. and snug it down. Do not over torque.
    7. Re-attach the glowplug wire, re-install the fuel filter assembly and fuel lines. Be sure you purge all of the air out of the injection system before starting.
    8. Finally re-attach the positive battery cable.
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    prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    What's your mileage? How often do glow plugs go out?
    My 06 is in the shop now with the second glow plug out. 41,000 miles. Fortunately still under warrenty.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The mileage on my CRD is nearly 73K miles. I had #2 glow plug replaced at about 62K miles under warranty. This one I did myself and I saved a bundle of money. I am dreading the failure of #3 as it is a bear to get at. #1 appears to be fairly easy to get at.

    Glow plugs fail when they fail. There is no time frame as to when they fail although age, electrical system health, and mileage are factors. In my first diesel, I replaced all four glow plugs every other year or 25K miles as at least one of them invariably would fail. Fortunately, they were easy to access and cost about $11 each.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Seems a bit strange to me, I have had my 06 CRD for 2 weeks (or less). Love the power, fuel miliage. What are the symptoms of the glow plug not working?
    I have had a 1992 Dodge diesel Pick-up since 8/91. I have never had a glow plug go out.
    Are these just junk plugs in the CRD or have I just been lucky?
    My Transgo kit should arrive this week, going to send the computer in for the Green Diesel as soon as they return from vacation. I have ordered my ARB Bully Bar Front Bumper, takes a Month to get here from Australia.
    My CRD, has 70k miles on it, I intend to keep it for at least 10 years and got it at a great price. I am going to trick it out ASAP and enjoy the benefits for as long as I can.,
    Bob
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Your Dodge does not have glow plugs. Cummins uses a plate/mesh to heat the air instead of individual glow plugs like the CRD.

    The engine controller tests the glow plugs for internal resistance and if that starts to breakdown then the CEL comes on Each glow plug throws it's own code so diagnosis is easy, replacement interesting. If you wait for the plug to fail totally and the plugs are wired in series, then starting when cold will be a problem because none of the plugs will work.

    The glow plugs like the rest of the injection system is Bosch.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Thanks. Are the glow plugs only necessary in cold weather? And will the CRD start if they are all bad? (Just curious).

    Thanks: Bob
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited September 2010
    When all glow plugs go bad I once used "Start Pilote":
    http://www.laboutiquedutracteur.com/start-pilote-300ml-pi-671.html

    This is a spray that smells like ether. You spray the air filter element and can start a cold engine like if it was warm :blush:
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    If it is warm enough then glow plugs are not all that necessary, but what you will have is longer cranking time to get the combustion chamber hot enough to ignite the fuel, especially with the first start of the day. If you go to a place where it is cold, then you will have problems.

    If you look at the oil dipstick, you should find a coiled wire with a plug on it. This is the block heater so that might help in cooler weather. I live just outside of Washington DC and if the temp is going to be below 20 F, I will plug my CRD in. I have started my CRD at 9F not plugged in and it did fine but it is easier on the engine if it is plugged in.

    Also, make sure the battery is in good shape. You do not need to purchase the Optima type battery as a replacement. I got a Dekka group 34 with 875 amps at 0F! I wanted more power, but nothing was available that would fit.
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    synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    I sell the optima it is made in mexico the deka is just as good but more money plenty of power for the crd
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    When I purchased the Deka battery, it cost $40 less then the Optima installed.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I am no diesel expert, but I was told by a old backhoe operator never to use ether on a diesel. When he had starting problems he used rag with gas on it and held it in front of the air cleaner. And he siad this was not too good for a diesel either, but was less harmful than ether.
    For what it's worth
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I agree not to use ether. I always opt for a fully charged battery and patience.
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    sthogesthoge Member Posts: 28
    Back when I used to work on construction equipment as a mechanic, non of them had glow plugs and the only way to get them started on a cold day was to use ether. In fact the catapillers that we had actually had an ether canister mounted so all the operator had to do was to push a button and it would shoot a small amount into the intake.
    It got dangerous when they came out with glow plugs as they were actually in the intake heating up the air, then using ether could be explosive.... I would not use ether on a modern diesel.
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    mtngoat1mtngoat1 Member Posts: 4
    my crd is making a a sound like the fan coming on then loses power, mech thinks turbo is working, but losing pressure . any ideas?
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Sounds like you blew one of the CAC hoses.
    Not an unusual problem.
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    synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    the optima retails for 154.00 dollars
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Synlubes,
    My Optima battery went bad without prior warning and put together with an automatic transmission this means you can't get a 'push' to restart your engine. Flat plate batteries usually show signs of weakness at the end of their lives and give you time to react. I bought a local make (Varta) also owned by Johnson Controls and sold for the price you mention:
    http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/publish/us/en/products/power_solutions.html
    My new battery is longer than the Optima so I had to saw off the two unused fixation grips. So far so good :)
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    My new battery cost $125.00 with installation and with charging system testing included.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    After reading about so many people having air problems in their fuel system and the fix being a lift pump, I decided to put one in my 2006.
    I bought a used lify pump and fuel sending unit from a 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummings truck.( $100 delivered). I had to cut off the tab on the top (just used wire cutters) for it to fit in My CRD and I changed the float from the unit I took out to the one I was putting it. I also needed a 4 wire plug instead of the 2 wire existing plug (Plugs were the same just the original was missing the 2 wires for the pump). I took the plug from the inside of the old unit, took it apart and removed the 2 connectors from it and added them to my Jeeps wiring plug wiht 2 wired sopldered onto them. This gave me the 4 wire plug I needed. The Jeep is already wired for a lift pump, you just have to locate the wire under the drivers side,passanger carpet. Simple to tap into. Since I had to drop the tank anyway, I also decided to add a Sedimentator, which I located on the drivers side next to the fuel tank. What a sedimentator does is acts like a pre-filter (without an element) which catches water and debris prior to the main filter. Is is easy to drain and rarely needs to be taken apart for cleaning. It lengthens the time between main filter changes. I also intend to go with a finer grade main filter, to filter out smaller particles.
    Bob
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    synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    looks like the diesel oils are finly moving to 5-30 for small diesels i have ran them in my crd always gm has a dexos oil for all gm cars and small trucks world wide it will be 5-30 already in all 2011 models
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    thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I think I remember seeing detailed instructions on here before "a couple years ago maybe" on how to remove the water seperator and change the fuel filter. Could anyone give me a link to the instructions please, I think it provided pictures also. Thanks
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I saw that a well, but con not seem to find it now.
    I did put notes in my log book from that posting, here they are:
    1. Remove water sensor connector from bottom of filter.
    2. Disconnect 2 topside Connectors.
    a. Temp sensor = blue wire.
    b. Heater = Red wire.
    3. Loosen clamp on Fuel output line (Drivers side) out of top. Remove hose.
    4. Remove filter.
    5. Remove water sensor from bottom of old filter and install it onto the new filter.
    6. Install new gaskets.
    Install new filter (hand tight)
    Install hose and electrical connections
    7. Loosten air bleeder screw 1 or 2 turns (passanger side top).
    8. push pirmer until fuel comes out.

    That should do it! best ofluck: Bob
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    captjamescaptjames Member Posts: 3
    I don't know for sure, but your post just caught my eye as I am looking for answers for what just happend to mine. I was driving at about 70 miles an hour on I 95 and I heard a noise like someone stuck a playing card in the spokes of a bike. This noise got louder. I slowed down and began to exit when I I had a loss of power then a surge and BOOM then smoke. It's dead. My mechanic says that the cam busted and drove a piston right through the block, not before causing alot of other internal damage. I / we don't know what happend exactally, but I would check out that noise and loss of power as perhaps you can prevent what happend to me, just yesterday. I hope it works out for you.
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    nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    Each morning, and sometimes when my 05 Liberty has been idle for several hours, my Low Coolant Warning Light comes on when I start it up and stays on beyond the standard 3 seconds. If I drive it for about 1/4 miles it goes out, but only if I travel this distance . I've checked the coolant reserve tank and it is up to the correct level on the plastic housing gage. The engine never over heats or moves from the normal operating level. Except for the light staying on for a quarter mile everything appears normal.
    Any thoughts?
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    If you have a crack in the engine block or head gasket somewhere along the cooling circuit, exhaust gases can flush coolant away while the engine is cold and resume normal operation as the engine warms up. You could perhaps check the stiffness of the coolant hoses with the engine cold and compare as the engine reaches it's usual temperature.
    If a vapor lock is the cause of the symptom you describe, by removing the front grill of the vehicle you should observe a non linear temperature gradient along the height of the radiator. You must always have a continuous temperature gradient from top to bottom.
    When driving a 1/4 mile you cool the radiator and this sometimes helps to re establish the flow of coolant by gravity typically when the coolant pump is broken.
    If part of your coolant is lost, cabin heating should not be stable.
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Get that sensor replaced if it is bad. Overheating a CRD = Dead Engine. My water pump leaked once and I lost enough fluid to overheat and kill the engine. No overheating on gauge, only the low coolant warning which I ignored driving at night in January with temps near zero. My only warning besides that light was the heater started blowing cold air. The #!%**! Hit the fan before I could get stopped on the shoulder of the xway. I got REALLY lucky and Chrysler gave me a new block and turbo. Don't take any chances with overheating a CRD.
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    gilly57gilly57 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 06 CRD purchased new with 75,000 miles. Recently started hearing the "Rocks in a Can" noise at low RPM when decelerating to a stop. No noticeable noise when accelerating, no noticeable shifting problems and I get 25-26 MPG running at 65-70 MPH.
    Has anyone else experienced this symptom and is it the first sign of TC problems?
    Also, I have searched for TC recalls from Chrysler-Jeep and can find no mention of a F37 recall for torque converters.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
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    warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    If you haven't had the F37 recall done, don't. You will lose about 10mpg.
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    is the F37 un-doable? or a procedure to get the mpg back?
    2005 Liberty CRD
    Hans
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    gymb2gymb2 Member Posts: 6
    I purchased an 06 Liberty Diesel in Jan. this year with 41k on it. From the start it had a delay in engaging the automatic Tranny when I started it up after it has set for several hours or over night. Supposedly there was a filter fix to correct the problem, but that did not do it. Next, the dealer said that I had a leak and the reason for the delay was low fluid. Once that was corrected, I still have the same problem, absolutely no change in its behavior. Before I go back to the dealer, I would like to be somewhat informed and maybe even able to suggest a place to start for the mechanic. No suspicious noises' or power loss or low mpg numbers, 20 in town and up to 30 on the highway. Everything else about it I am real pleased. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    Coincidentally, my CRD is at the dealer since Friday for exactly this same problem! I have one more issue, shortly after the tranny has enough torque to get going, 100 yrds later I come to a stop-sign and the torque converter will not disengage and I have to press hard on the brake to stall the engine to a stop. This has been happening about 2 or three times a month and this is the second time my visit to the dealer. The first time they mentioned a service notice bulletin to inspect for debris on the tranny filter. They did that plus a tranny oil service (at my expense) and found nothing wrong. Lets see what they say now. Other than that, it operates well and I get 18/27mpg.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Has your jeep had the F37 re-call done? (change Torque convertor).
    Sounds like the Torque converter is bad. These are fantastic vehicles once set up correctly. The engine has too much torque for the stock convertor. Sooner or later, (if we drive hard or tow), we will have to up-grade to a stronger convertor. This is not cheap, and all torque convertors are not equal. The Suncoast is suppose to be one of the best, but can cost $800. There are decent ones in the $400 to $500 range that will work for 99% of us.
    There is also a Transgo shift kit, that runs around $50 and is not hard for the average backyard mechanic to install. It gets rid of shift lag.
    Go to the LostJeep Forum and start reading about your CRD from actual owners. Some of these guys are light years ahead of the dealer techs.
    Best of luck: Bob
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    mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    edited October 2010
    I too have the same issue when I first start out in the mornings. Sometimes I shift into reverse to back out and it takes 15-20 seconds
    to move. Pump has to pressurize...... Then when I back out the converter locks up in reverse and will stall the motor. I had one heck of a time restarting one time so I have learned that when it is going to happen I just shift into netural and back into reverse and everything works fine after that. Also have it lock up when I first put it into drive
    but its downhill and I can hear the motor almost stall and then I hear
    a metalic clunk/ting and it releases. Again only on startup and then
    runs fine all day long. Get use to reacting and going to netural or you might find youself into a wall or something at some point.
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    05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    edited October 2010
    F37 Included replacing the torque converter. At the dealer's choice they also could replace the Front Pump. I had to have both done. As soon as the Front Pump was replaced the noise and the delay in engagement disappeared. I have had no problems since and the mileage is still good.
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    vmlmvmlm Member Posts: 1
    I expect to buy a Liberty Diesel in a couple days. What should I look for in way of deal killers? This will be my first Diesel and I would like to avoid it being a costly mistake.
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    warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I don't believe the dealer replaces the TC. It's just a detune that robs about 10 mpg.
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    gymb2gymb2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your replying to my inquiry. I took my 06 Diesel Liberty to the dealer today and I printed out your info and the other responses that it generated and took it with me. The service manager was very interested in all that was said and I think you all have given him a good place to start. I will let you know what is done. Thanks again for all of your good info. I really like my Jeep. I have hauled a couple of loads of firewood out of the mountains and hauled a couple of loads of hay for my wife's horse.

    A second question would be has anyone hooked up trailer brakes? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks again everyone. Jim (gymb2)
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have had it done with no loss in fuel economy whatsoever. Whoever did your F37 screwed up something.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    This transmission has problem with drain back. If you let it sit long enough, the fluid in the TC will drain back into the pan. When you start it, especially the first start of the day, let it idle for about 30 seconds. I had that with my 2005 but that was resolved by an update the dealer put in when I had the F-37 done.
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    gymb2gymb2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the confirmation that this is not a unique problem to just my tranny. The dealer said that the F-37 did not apply to my 06. Supposedly the problem was resolved in the manufacture of the later models, mine was manufactured 05/15/06. Obviously not. So I still have the problem if that is what it could be called.

    Do you know what was done within the F-37 that resolved the drain back?

    I have taken to letting it warm up as you have suggested before I put it in gear and it is ready to drive. Thanks for the info.
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    unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I have noticed that Diesels in General, like to idle for about 45 seconds in the morning before putting them in gear. This is the case with my 92 Dodge cummins as well.
    From what I gather with the F37 recall, they replaced the Torque convertor with another junky one, just buying time to get out from under the warrenty. In some cases they also replaced the pump.
    You might try a Transgo shift kit, they run about $50 and are pretty easy to install. You have to drop the transmission pan and it can be a bit messy, but I had no problems doing it and I never worked on an Automatic Transmission before.
    It gives you a much more positive shift
    Bob
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