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Comments
I agree with you Ruth. It's a diesel, it should be breaking in about now not breaking down! I think I'm going to take this further with Chrysler as this sounds like it's going to become more common - found a few cases now already. In my line of work, more than 2 is an 'excursion' and an indication that there are more to come of the same.
How does one proceed to take this up with Chyrsler?
btw - there's a pic on my user status that I did not put there, not even my pic. How did it get there and how do I get it out? Checked my profile and can't seem to find it.
thanks!
CRD4me2
Where exactly are you seeing that?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
A Provent system is a must. There are a few cheap ways to accomplish teh same results explained on this forum. a comercial system runs $160-$200 and protects the EGR and turbo from the excess oil accumulation.
These are great cars with a few design design deficiencies apparently purposly deleted to save $$ when manufactured.
As far as my issue at present, the Jeep is still in the shop. In the opinions of the experts here, if a small amount of oil is getting to the EGR do I put the Provent on and then I'm done? Or should I have them keep working on the issue. Sounds to me as if they are mystified.
I'll read up on the Provent system on the forum today if I can find time away from my job. thanks.
crd4me2
crd4me2
It will not remove the oil that is already in the system, it prevents future sludge from entering the turbo and egr valve.
After your work is completed would be the best time to install one. (while everything is still clean.
I just dod a Google search to find mine, I paid $160. All the installation instructions are in this forum, just have to search to find them.
There are some who hafve built their own out of plastic bottles, etc..., there are also some who just re-route the vent hose to the underside of the jeep, very cheap, but then you get drops of oil under the jeep, not good if you have a nice driveway.
I am a shor time owner, but did alot of research, and made alot of improvements the first month of ownership. I plan on keeping mine for many years.
Best of luck: Bob
I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 129,000 miles. This has always been a very faithful automobile. At 100,000 I had the dealer replace the timing belt, and EGR valve. Being used to the “standard” auto engine, I decided it would be good to have the water pump replaced, as a preventative measure. (Probably a waste of $ but that is a different story)
In the past the cabin heater would be “hot” within ½ Mile or so. Now this machine never warms up. I did a visual check, the clutch on the viscous heater is engaging. The service manual is woefully inadequate when it comes to the diesel cooling system.
Could it be possible the dealer “reversed” the hose connections?
Does anyone have any ideas?
This little diesel runs most efficiency with the temp gauge straight up. When the thermostat starts to fail, you will notice that the gauge does not reach the straight up position unless under a decent load (pulling or a long hill).
If your thermostat is stuck open, and you are in a cold climate, your heater will not work worth a darn, the fan is blowing air through a heater core full of water that is not hot. These Thermostat's are (unfortunately, another design flaw) built into a cast housing, so what normally would be a $10 part costs $110.
There is a buy on this forum that will take your old thermostat and curt and machine it to accecpt a $10 replacable thermostat, he charges $100 (or was) plus shipping. So that future replacements will only cost you $10.
You should always replace your water pump when changing your timing belt, because it requires no additional labor, only the cost of the part. And Water pumps life span is not much more than the timing belts. The thermostat is usually replaced at this time as well.
Hope this helps: Bob
You always tried to keep the faith with "Factory" engineering.
You even called VM about correct oil.
I hope Fiat/Jeep gives you a nice present,
a new big heavy box from Italy.
We recently had 19°F (-7°C) and my engine started without coughing with its original glow plugs :shades:
The 10W40 synthetic engine oil is due for the 15,000 miles change but this doesn't seem to affect cranking speed. I had to top the engine oil level with less than one pint during the last 14,000 miles.
The original thermostat keeps the cooling circuit gage at a 11:00 hours, so I have plenty cabin heat available.
There are many backyard mechanics on the Lostjeeps forum who have taken a kind of Cult interest in the CRD. they have made many improvements to the factory cost saving original specs. It is basically a great car, just Jeep cut a few too many corners building them.
A few hours later, I spoke with the service manager at the dealer where the Jeep was left. He expanded on the District Managers thinking/comments.
1. Since the Jeep was beyond 70K miles, it was out of warranty.
2. Since the cost of the repair was equivalent to the blue book value of the car (had it been in good running condition), they would not fix it.
3. Even if I had had an extended warranty Chrysler would not have fixed it. Extended warranties only cover up to $6000 of work (basically the cost of a long block). The dealer would have to get approval from Chrysler to continue the repair. Again because of the cost and blue book value, no go.
4. I kept a detailed log of the maintenance I performed on the CRD but only a few receipts. That hurt the most but even if I had had every last receipt the outcome would have been more than likely the same according to the service manager.
5. The service manager did tell that if I had had my CRD serviced at the dealer, things could have been potentially different. So is this guy implying that non-dealer/self servicing/maintenance is a problem?
6. The service manager also told me that the K&N filter could have contributed to the demise of the engine. I learned that installation of K&N filters or similar on new Dodge Cummins powered trucks could/will limit the warranty on the engine as could the addition of devices like the Provent.
I have started looking for a new set of wheels. Chrysler is not exactly on my short list at this time even though my wife and I have been loyal customers for more than twenty years. The Chrysler customer care rep I dealt with told me that Chrysler has a known problem with customer relations and they are trying to fix them. They are off to a wonderful start with me.
If you would have known that Jeep could put you in such a miserable situation...
I'm keeping my Toyotas until the CRD dies.
Bummer about the engine. Manufacturers do sometimes go the extra mile when you've been a loyal customer (i.e., paying shop rates for all your mechanical work and maintenance at the dealer).
I suppose you could send a note to K&N....
Just curious, What kind of oil and how often did you change it?
It sounds like you may be getting air in the fuel system.
A lot of people have been installing lift pumps to solve the air in fuel problem. I have not (yet). There was an issue with the fuel heater connector allowing fuel into the filter head.
The VM engine as such is a wonderful piece of equipment but Daimler Chrysler killed the hen in the egg by trying to make something over sophisticated out of it.
I bet K&N engineers already read these lines
No the thermostat was not replaced. Living in Houston, it is not as important to heat the cabin. Still nice to get the chill off though!
The only thing that comes to mind is that the same controller is used for V-8 diesels in Europe and elsewhere.
As for the smell, you might have a load of bad fuel or else there might be some over fueling going on.
My question stemmed from the fact I have heard others state about changing their oil every 12,500 miles or so. (Not a good idea!)
At one time I had access to portable oil analysis equipment and over the course of a year would evaluate the condition of the oil every change. True the oil has the capability of not chemically degrading over this time, however the containments generated by the engine coupled with the moisture ingress to the sump, dramatically decrease the life of the oil.
As far as your engine failure, perhaps you may wish to consult an attorney. I heard it stated recently, if the manufacturer insisted you have the dealer change the oil, they would have applied a big sticker to the underside of the hood stating that fact!
Sorry again about your misfortune, good luck.
Manufacturers "want to see that you are a loyal, dealership-oriented, maintenance-conscience customer. By offering AWA, the manufacturer hopes to keep you as a loyal customer who will remember this assistance the next time you purchase a new vehicle".
The Secret Warranty - Understanding After Warranty Assistance
Keep us updated on your vehicle decision.
Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year.
Toyota, VW and Audi give good service for the money compared to Jeep but they don't pay their customers to buy their new cars. They also use a trick over here: there are no shop manuals known to the public :sick:
Concerning AWA:
- Harley Davidson France covers everything the first year then the owner needs to bring solid proof that an eventual problem is really and only due to the manufacturer to cover the cost of repair. Do you get the message?
Not over here they don't, at least not VW (Toyota and Jeep were also both below average in the '06 JD Power report I found). Dealers are independent of the manufacturer so it's a bit of a crap shoot, but VW has a lousy dealer rep in the US overall. Ask my sister (although her dealer did improve quite a bit as she neared the end of her ownership of her New Beetle. She likes VWs a lot, she didn't buy another because of the dealer). Hopefully with the new factory going up in Tennessee, service will improve.
No shop manuals would be a pain. Over here, we're trying to get access to everything (Right To Repair - A Hot Issue or Big Problem?)
Who is really competent to argue that this well known make is not as good as the Mexican, Tunisian or Chinese made "Original" filter element?
If our 'judges' are paid by Chrysler then we need to change or accept a second round of humiliation. Most people buy their vehicle to get to work 50 weeks per year, not to suffer.
Here is what happened to Santa Claus who was a truthful customer but the manufacturer changed one of his suppliers:
The dealer in Florida did not bother to call the purchasing dealer and the service manager at the Florida dealer made it clear that even if I had had all or most of my oil change/service receipts, it probably would not have mattered and Chrysler would have still said "no". Their other excuse is that the repair would cost as much as the blue book value of the car.
Had they gone on with the repair had I had my Jeep serviced at the dealer, then I would consider that a potential violation of Moss-Magnuson.
In any event, I am looking for a new car and it will not be from Chrysler. They once had loyal customers in my wife and myself.
Remember one of Ed's radio shows about paying for extra miles and paying extra to just walk away without taking a hit for normal wear and tear. Couple that with free maintenance and it may be the way we go next if we still have to drive infernal combustion that uses gas and oil.
Or buy and old frame and build our own. Sophisticated vehicles, electronic features, glitz over strong axles, parts from wherever to keep the cost down for the disappearing middle class. Good Luck. The thought of having to buy another new vehicle is a living hell.
Thanks for your input. A lease is not in the cards as I drive too many miles per year and a lease to cover that kind of mileage is expensive. Plus when I purchase a vehicle, I tend to keep it forever and I enjoy doing the maintenance on it.
My departure or potential departure from Chrysler is not in stone yet. I still like their products and know which ones to avoid. I am looking for another vehicle but a Liberty with diesel is not one of them. There are some out there at a reasonable price but considering how fragile they are and the amount of maintenance they require, forget it. I have been looking at the Jeep GC with the CDI (Daimler). The tech at the sealer I purchased my Jeep at says they are very clean burning engines and the trans are pretty good too.
The CRD is a great little car, they just cut too many corners to save $$. If you are willing to spend the time and money to bring them up to their potential, they should last along time.
I am very impressed with the towing capacity of my CRD as opposed to my 2000 Cherokee, 4.0. no comparrison.
Best of luck: Bob
I am in the process of writing to corporate higher ups to tell them about the treatment I received at the hands of Gator Chrysler in Melbourne, Florida.
Last night my wife and I purchased a replacement vehicle a loaded 2010 Mercury Milan Premier. It is not a diesel but straight gas. I had wanted a VW TDI but they are too much money and they are having EGR problems not unlike those which plague the CRD along with potential oil dilution issues related to DPF regeneration.
If my letters to Chrysler have any impact, such as getting a new engine for my CRD, then I will return. In the meantime, best of luck to all of you.
Wishing you many happy comfortable miles in the Mercury
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When I last spoke to the dealer where I purchased my CRD, I found out that there is a six week wait to get the engine in our CRD. Dealer has no clue why.