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Transmission problems with Lexus ES?

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Comments

  • corrigancorrigan Member Posts: 3
    I have filed two complaints with the NHTSA. Lexus techs have been out and inspected the vehicle two times and say there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. Quite frankly, I do not trust the Lexus techs. All that they do is hook up a laptop computer to your car's computer and test 8 systems for error messages. When I asked for a copy of the computer report of the eight systems checked, Lexus says that I will have to contact their legal department for that information. They will not even tell you which systems they checked. If they do find anything wrong, they are pretty good at keeping that information confidential. From what I have read, I know I will have more episodes until I am able to get rid of the vehicle. I don't really know how Lexus can continue to market these vehicles without resolving this problem. I understand from a recent Wall Street Journal article that Lexus had more recalls than cars sold in 2005. I presume a recall of this magnitude could potentially put them out of business in the long run. If you read the reports at the NHTSA website, you can see that the problem began in 2002 and continues through 2006. In the beginning (2002-2003), various service department people admitted that there had been problems and that Lexus did not have a fix for them. Now, the standard answer is that the vehicle is performing as designed. I have attempted to engage the services of a forensics mechanic but they did not seem to want to be involved. Forensics mechanics in my area do not advertise and are difficult to locate.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it is unfortunate that a manufacturer (and it doesn't have to be Lexus, it could be any manufacturer) hasn't taken care of you in this case. i'm sort of surprised they haven't thrown a new accelerator and throttle body assembly at your vehicle following the second event.

    they did instrument the car twice for some short-term diagnostics, but that fails pretty miserably to duplicate the scenarios you experienced the events in - doesn't it?

    i suppose you'd need perhaps a third event in order for them to do a buy back or justify to themselves replacing a component.

    sad.

    if you feel most confident both events were not caused by an action or inaction on your part, my suggestion is you should probably get out of the vehicle, even at a loss as another event could drastically change the cost/benefit equation in front of you as of this day.

    to fight a manufacturer on an issue like this would take time, money and effort i'm not sure any consumer would have to spare. i'm thinking you'd burn much more money than the fiscal hit you'd take on trade. add in the time, effort, frustration, etc, and it just gets more costly overall.

    there would need to be engineering specialists to duplicate the two scenarios you experienced and repeatedly run them again and again until an event occurred that could be captured on a data collection system installed on the car. that is expertise, equipment, time and money another organization would have to come up with.

    then you'd need law expertise to take the data collected by the engineers with their equipment and present it in the proper forum for the manufacturer or government to take action.

    even if the engineering and law expertise were free to you, you'd be in the vehicle right?

    i hate to say give the problem to someone else, but if it were me, if i had lost confidence in the vehicle i own and operate, my safety and the safety of passengers who might be riding with me, or for that matter people in my immediate vicinity where another event may occur, i say it's better to move on.

    as i see it, you've been lucky twice.

    you've registered two complaints with NHTSA. by doing so you've alerted other people, the government, and the manufacturer. you've given the manufacturer two opportunities to do right by you.

    i think you've done what any single person can realistically be expected to do to alert the manufacturer and the public of an issue. the manufacturer has deemed the vehicle operating as designed.

    rhetorical question: who should you trust at this point - the manufacturer, or yourself?
  • corrigancorrigan Member Posts: 3
    I also believe it is going to take a third incident. I have been very lucky with the first two. The first time caught me totally off guard and I could not figure out why the the car was accelerating like it was. It was like the cruise control suddenly kicked in and I did not know why it was happening. The second time, I knew, and immediately reacted by jamming the brake to the floor and holding it down until the car stopped. I am extremely cautious when driving, especially in parking lots. When there is a third incident, there will be a lawsuit filed. I can accomplish this easy enough through attorneys who are close associates of mine. The problem with getting rid of the car, is that it is a leased vehicle and I really cannot afford to buy the lease out. Lexus will not allow me to get out of the lease since they say nothing is wrong with the vehicle. Lexus would rather take their chances with a serious accident occurring with me driving the vehicle than to let me out of the lease. If they let me out of the lease, they would be admitting that there is a problem with my car. If they admit there is a problem with my car, then they will have to admit there is a problem with all of the ES models sold since 2002. The longer they can hold out on admitting there is a problem, the better it is for them financially now. I believe they do know there is a problem, even though they will not admit it; and that they are trying to figure out a solution in the meantime.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i do not know how much it costs to buy yourself out of a lease, but the economics of the situation in my opinion do not justify driving the vehicle until the next event. and if you are anticipating another event, if you aren't instrumenting the vehicle with a special device to capture all the relevant information to support your case, what are you doing exactly?

    while you can file a lawsuit, what are you going to sue for?

    damages (money) or something else? to force an action upon the manufacturer (like a major recall and replacement of parts), or stop an action on their part (like cease manufacturing and selling vehicles with DBW technology)?

    what if something should happen to you or another person as a result of a 3rd event, would staying in the vehicle have made any justifiable sense?

    i'm not in your situation thankfully, but i'm sorry, i'm not following your plan of action here.

    i do not believe you need to wait for a 3rd event to file a lawsuit or investigate being a part of some class-action.

    i just don't think the cost-benefit of doing either is in your favor.
  • mechrad1mechrad1 Member Posts: 26
    I was just surfing on ebay and noticed an outfit in Texas that is selling a bunch of the buy back es 350s. They say the transmission was replaced by lexus and lexus had generously bought back the cars. buyer beware
  • tedescm1tedescm1 Member Posts: 309
    Thanks for the warning
  • gmontagewgmontagew Member Posts: 32
    Searched everywhere (3 times!!!) on Ebay and no joy on any tranny replaced buy back Lexii.
    Any chance you have a link? Or how many available/what the probs with trannies were? Or even why the buybacks?
    Thanks.
  • bobbassbobbass Member Posts: 34
    Go to "EBay Motors"
    Enter "Lexus ES"
    Next page, enter "2007" in both minimum and maximum years.

    The very first one showing up is a GORGEOUS Ruby Red with 1,000 miles that is a buyback with replaced transmission. That is clearly and honestly stated in the last paragraph of the description.

    I didn't look at any others, but there are more listed.
  • tenpin2007tenpin2007 Member Posts: 3
    Kimmel & Silverman
    Ambler, PA
    215-540-8888 or 1-800 LEMON LAW
  • bevobestbevobest Member Posts: 1
    YES, YES, YES. Replacing transmission now. 119K miles. Had a 94 Es300 had re replace transmission @140K miles. Will be looking for new car in about one yr & moving away from the Brand.....tired of fixing transmissions. Bevobest
  • gjfes350gjfes350 Member Posts: 7
    My dealership is trying to make me out as being crazy over the same problem. In the morning for about the 1st 2-4 miles my car sounds like the valves need adjusted. The tapping sound is embarassing going down the street. They tell me that what 'I may be hearing' is the import injector, and then insist that this is normal operation. It may be normal for them, but unacceptable by me, but I can't get them to take it on as a problem to solve.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If it is any help my 2001 AWD RX300 makes a really loud engine related clicking noise when I start it up, especually on a COLD morning. I'm rather sure it's the fuel injectors so I don't worry about it.
  • walterp1946walterp1946 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to bother you, dont know where to exactly start, maybe you can help me.

    Bought a 1999 es 300 and today the trac off light came on with the engine light also. I have no idea, checked the book and says see Dealer, any thoughts first
    thank you
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Engine related problem, trac or VSC off with CEL is simply a default.
  • gjfes350gjfes350 Member Posts: 7
    I had to take the car back in for the 3rd time last Friday. While heading to work I was cruising at 55 when the RPM jumped from 1800 to 5000 for no reason. It was like I had thrown it into Neutral. That was the last straw. So I turned around and drove straight to the dealership. I told them that I would not pick the car up until they had finally acknowledged a problem. And I didn't want them adding up mileage trying to recreate a randomly ocurring problem. After 4 days of diagnosis they tell me today that the diagnositic data sent to Lexus on the transmission showed a problem. I don't know if they are just giving me a bunch of dribble, but they said that Lexus has decided to replace the transmission and will have the car for another 5 days.
  • oldfart2oldfart2 Member Posts: 4
    Did you buy the 03 ES? I have one and it had 17k miles when
    we purchased it. Now it has 40k and there really are no
    transmission problems. A slight little whirling noise between
    20 and 30 mph. Been that way since day one. Been driving the
    wheels off the thing and so far so good. First thing I did
    was dump all the oil, trans, engine etc. and put synthetic
    oil in everything. Went to Salt Lake City Utah from San Fran
    area, got 34.8 mpg with the cruise control on. Average speed
    70 to 80.
    Works for me.
    How has yours been working out?
  • gjfes350gjfes350 Member Posts: 7
    Yes, I bought it new in May. I have 11800 miles on it. The problems started about 8,000 miles.
  • tedescm1tedescm1 Member Posts: 309
    No... not yet.

    My friend owns the car and the lease is up in June. The car has 15K miles on it and i am told that he has never had any trans hesitation so i think it's ok.

    He's an old friend and I trust him...
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I have little or no doubt that many, probably even most, could drive these cars for a lifetime and never expereince or notice the hesitation symptom.

    Read the three circumstances in the 2003 Camry TSB under which it most commonly occurs.
  • curt2005curt2005 Member Posts: 70
    My ES330 uses the previous generation of transmission and computer. It sometimes hesitates on acceleration but I have never felt in danger because of it.

    After careful tests I have determined that on my car there is hesitation only if I gently press the gas pedal. This is fine because it saves gas.

    When I stab the pedal, the car takes off briskly.

    The hesitation problem for the newest transmission and software combination may also be related to how quickly and how far you press the pedal. The computer can easily determine how fast you are moving the pedal, which makes this different from what we are used to with a non-computerized transmission.

    I think that this is a side effect of an algorithm in the engine computer designed to get better mileage and emissions ratings in the standard tests. It has been an issue with several Toyota models for several years.

    For me, the 330 has turned out to be a great car.
  • tedescm1tedescm1 Member Posts: 309
    Thank you for the information
  • gavrikgavrik Member Posts: 51
    I had an interesting experience driving my wife's 2005 ES330 about a month ago.

    We were driving on a single lane road and I got tired of driving behind this old beat-up pickup truck at low speeds. I floored the gas pedal and immediately the rpm went up from 1600 to about 5000 rpm, I overtook the vehicle and as I eased off the gas pedal, the vehicle refused to drop rpms and speed. The vehicle behaved as if I was driving in 1st gear and stuck in it. Also, the sound from the transmission was unbearable. I wanted to slow down and kept on shifting to 4, 3, 2, while pushing down on break pedal with my foot, anything that would switch off the vehicle but to no avail.
    I then shifted to Neutral and that did not help, either. The vehicle was still going fast. Luckily, there were no cars on the road in front of me. In my last desperate attempt, I simply took the ignition key off. The vehicle finally came to a stop. I then caught my breath, put the key back into ignition and started the car. It was Ok, finally.

    I really did not feel I had to take the car to my dealer as I was afraid they would laugh at me. I no longer try to floor the gas pedal anytime I drive this car.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    There is a serious problem with the vehicle.

    I presume when you put the vehicle in N or Neutral, the vehicle speed would have continued to decline, specially if you put on the brakes...

    However, perhaps the engine reving would not go down for you. That MUST BE diagnosed by your dealership.

    Further, you should report your experience with the NHTSA site.

    Never though should you turn your ignition off. Not only can you end up locking your wheel, you'll loose power to the stearing and braking systems.

    Again, when you put the vehicle in N (Neutral), that should have de-coupled the engine from the transmission / wheels, and you should have been able to slow (although with engine perhaps racing).

    If that's not the case, then you have a totally different problem.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Keep in mind that there is now NO mechanical connection from the shifter to the transaxle nor is there a mechanical connection from the gas pedal to the engine throttle.

    The only thing left is the Stearing, brakes and ignition and even with those these days you can't be sure there isn't some ECU firmware in the control loop, especially with the ignition "control" key.

    Some of the newer VSC systems even have the ability to "assume" control of the stearing inputs.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    which is why i said, if putting the vehicle transmission in "N" did not actually cause the vehicle to slow, this poster has other problems as well.

    ECM/PCM/TCM i don't know.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If the engine is at high torue, WOT (For whatever reason, fault, etc.) is it possible that the control firmware will not even allow a shift into neutral?

    It most certainly would not "allow" a shift into reverse.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    good point. excellent point. i was assuming there was cable linkage to the transmission from the shifter. bad assumption perhaps.

    i did recommend the poster contact the NHSTA didn't I?
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    it could be like the airbus crash at the paris airshow... test pilot performs a low-altitude manuver that the engineers didn't anticipate in the programming of the system and the engine controls usurp pilot authority when he attempts to go full throttle (to make it over the trees).

    he didn't make it.

    if the transmission is programmed NOT to go to "N" at high rev, coupled with a sticky accelerator / non-linearity in sensing / or a confused throttle body servo, then that is one scarey scenario. you've got to be able to decouple the engine from the drivetrain if speed is increasing.

    turning off the vehicle to "reset the electronics" is :sick:

    now then, one would think it *may* be possible for the vehicle to be checked under controlled conditions again. but who would want to do it.

    oh how wonderful if not repeatible, huh?

    now, speaking for myself, and not trying to be alarmist, if i had an uncontrolled event like that which could not be pin-pointed / addressed, i'd be immediately dumping the vehicle, loss and all.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Was the gas pedal PUSHED so hard for that initial accerleration to pass that it stuck mechanically?

    Or to be quite fair, the gas pedal may have been stuck under the carpet mat, like has happened to me twice, once many years ago and again just two years ago.

    Carpet mat "draped" over the gas pedal but behind the brake pedal, the harder you brake the more the engine ROARS.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    always a possibility. there was a recall for this wasn't there, to install some hook or something to keep the mats from binding up with the pedals.

    still, you have to be able to disengage the transmission. it's suicide if you can't.
  • gavrikgavrik Member Posts: 51
    No, the gas pedal was not stuck. The transmission behaved as if I was doing 45mph in 1st gear with RPMS going strong without any letup. I disengaged my foot of the accelerator then and put my foot on the brake. The vehicle started to slow down, however the RPMS did not change. I came to a complete stop thanks to strong brakes but the car would begin accelerating again had I took my foot of the brakes. I turned the car off right then.

    Like I stated before, I no longer try flooring the gas pedal in any circumstances.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you had an uncontrolled accelerator event then. it's clear the vehicle tried to take off when you let your foot off the brake from zero speed. that's not good.

    thanks for confirming it wasn't an issue with the mats.

    also good to know you shut the thing down at or near zero speed when you started taking off again... like i said, powering everything down is dangerous, but you did it at a more controllable condition than at speed.

    ultimatley, we're glad you are ok!!!

    i STRONGLY suggest you contact the NHSTA and put in an entry for your VIN.
  • 1matt11matt1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issues with my 05 ES330 and have been working with the dealer and Lexus to get it resolved...with no luck so far. Just the same; it's operating as it should. Have you had any luck?

    My next option looks to be in the court but I've been doing whatever I get it fixed.

    Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated!
    thanks!
  • texicotexico Member Posts: 3
    Thank You all for the information. other than this site I've had a hard time getting anyone to tell me for sure what this could be.
    My '92 ES300 started these same symptoms about a month ago.
    running at 40-45 MPH when the accelerator is pressed it shutters like you ran over a dog or something.
    I see allot of people have this same problem. I've had this car for over ten years... why would this problem just pop up now?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I think your vehicle is of such vintage that the whole of the conversation with respect to drive-by-wire and intellengent transmission control, or fuel air management in an engine control unit do not apply to you.

    if your vehicle is truly a '92, and if you are experiencing hesitation upon throttle application, either you have a fuel/air problem (dirty throttle body, clogged air filter), missing hose, clogged EGR port, etc, or you have a transmission problem (dirty fluid, problematic shift solenoid), or something along those lines.

    you could also have an issue with plugs, ignition coil, wires...

    for that matter a clogged CAT covertor might yield a loss of power / stumbling.

    have you googled the issue more?

    how about another site dealing with vintage lexus.

    do you have a shop dealing with lexus / toyota vehicles. you might want to ask them how much it might cost to diagnose.
  • texicotexico Member Posts: 3
    Okay Maybe I didn't understand that drive-by-wire and intelligent transmission control, or fuel air management in an engine control unit don't apply to my "vintage" Lexus. yes, it really is a '92.
    but I was having the exact symptoms described here. the car is drives fine. it's only happened when cruising at 40-45 MPH, all is well. until you press the accelerator again. then the car shutters like crazy until it passes 45 MPH. then it's all good again. if you mash it hard in the 30's and pass through the 40's it does not do it. anyways... the solution given a few pages back totally worked for me. I pulled out the "ECU-IG" fuse for about five mins. and put it back in.
    the problem is gone.
  • thomtthomt Member Posts: 1
    Help! New to forum. Lexus ES 300 2001 Transmission won’t go into reverse. Cable appears to be working properly & other gears engage. Owned for 3 months, no history specifics except for a clear “car-fax”. 113,000k Any advice appreciated, thank you.
  • sdmillertimesdmillertime Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 ES300 in mostly sound mechanical shape.

    However, i've been experiencing some scary moments with my transmission.

    Several times now while driving, my gas pedal will become unresponsive. The engine will rev, but the car will not move forward. I try to shift to a lower gear, and these will also not drive.

    After pulling over and shutting the engine off, I will restart the engine, and the car will drive as normal. This has happened 4 times now. 3 of these times happened while I was driving on the freeway (2 going up a significant hill). The other time was driving through the city, going no more than 20 mph.

    Another quirk that happens (which i'm assuming is associated) is that my speedometer will jump between 60 - 80 randomly while i'm on the free way. I got a speeding ticket for doing 83 when I had my cruise control set at 68.

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • livelylatinlivelylatin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ES300 in good shape but I have recurrent problem. About a year ago I accidently grounded the alternator cable, and about 3 months after my OD light started blinking causing my computer to go into fail safe mode. The code suggested defective solenoids. I changed the solenoids (which were quite expensive) and the problem still existed. I then changed the computer and the problem stopped. However recently the same thing started happening and again the diagnostics suggests the #2 solenoid, I changed the OBD as it was the cheaper option and the car worked quite well for a week or so and the problem came back. The computer is going into fail safe mode which means it is lazy on take off as if in 3rd gear, I would have to manually shift to L gear to take of and then shift to drive.
    Could I have a short in my wiring harness? Could anyone please help me with cost effective solutions.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Miles driven...???

    With high mileage I would suspect OD lockup clutch slipping, or even standard clutches. It might take as long as a week or so for the ECU to "learn" that clutches are slipping depending on the severity, or non-severity, of the slippage.

    How does the transmission act if you reset the computer and then drive with OD always disabled for a few days?

    "grounded the alternator cable.."

    The most obvious alternator wire for "easy", accidentally, grounding would be the OUTPUT one connected directly to the battery via a fusible link. That should result in nothing more than would happen with a dead battery, even if you blew the fusible link.
  • fatrabbitslimfatrabbitslim Member Posts: 1
    The shutter you are feeling is most likely the torque converter clutch not fully locking up as it should around that speed. Unless your a certified tech I wouldn't advise you attempting to fix this problem yourself. I had the same problem on my 1999 ES300 (135K miles) I am a tech and had the proper tools to determine the problem and fix it accordingly. You might try getting a transmission serviced and putting in an additive like Bars or a "No slip" additive for Automatic Transmissions. Hope that helps
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hi all! has any one had experience in replacing tran. oil in an 05 es 330? Do i have to replacing the filter too? Please share.
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hi all! has anyone in here had experience in replacing tran.oil for an 05 es330? do i have to replace the filter too? Oh, how come it says on the dip stick that replacing tran.oil wont be necessary under normal driving condition? :confuse: pls help
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..how come..."

    Because,sadly, that would be the truth of the matter had not Toyota and Lexus began to have transaxle design problems, SERIOUS design problems/flaws, going back to the introduction of the RX300 in '98.
  • jdpspanjdpspan Member Posts: 3
    hi this is member JDPSPAN, i got a big problem i need help wit, i hope someone
    can help me before i go spend money on possibly the wrong thing. anyway my
    93 es300 started leaking pwrsteering fluid bad, like every other day,then i noticed
    that after a while of driving the car would start to get hot.sum kinda way im thinking
    the pwrsteering high pressure hose goes to the radiator, i dont know! sum kinda way these two have to be working togther. then after all this, as im driving,the gas pedal becomes unresponsive,the engine jus revs but no movement, then i pull over
    an let the car sit for a minute, an start it back up, an it begins to drive normal,then after awhile acts up again. now im no expierenced mechanic,but i know enough
    about cars to know that a trans is not jus gonna go out like that! no warning,no slipping or nothin. this car has another engine in it,wit about 70,000 miles on it, the trans is the original,which total, the car has about 130,000 miles. like i said, im no expert,but these type of cars (toyota/lexus), these trans can run well up to 200,000
    plus. there is no way this trans is out...there has to be some one who can tell me or kinda give me a good idea of whats goin on. becuz im about to go spend almost 1500 on a trans job i mite not need, as far as the pwrsteering issue, that i can take care of , but this trans problem is killing me, an i got to get this car fixed fast....help,help,help!!!
  • pjl1pjl1 Member Posts: 2
    Check engine light came on in my 97 ES300 2 months ago. The dealer read the codes as P0441 and P0450, evap purge flow and evap pressure sensor error. They cleaned sensors and re-set check light. Recently the light came on and the same codes were showing up. Dealer told me that they would change evap pressure sensor and charcoal canister, but they only changed the charcoal canister. Is this the normal procedure? The check engine light has come on again for the same codes and I am taking the car back to the dealer. Can anyone predict what the dealer will say? Should they have changed the evap pressure sensor like they said they were in the first place? Could the charcoal canister be bad again? or is it likely the evap sensor?
  • pjl1pjl1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 ES with 150000 miles and I just had the transmission re-built for 1800. The check engine light was indicating shift solenoid failure. Same sporadic symptoms as yours, hit gas-engine revs-car go nowhere and then gear engaged. I also had a pump seal leak and all my gaskets and rings were rock hard (so re-build shop said). Car runs like a champ now, but the 1800 hurt for sure. I tried Lucas, but to no avail. Yours may be a simple fix, but I doubt it.
  • jdpspanjdpspan Member Posts: 3
    HEY, thanks. i understand what u were sayin. i just thought the trans would give a
    lot more notice before it went out. an no check engine light ever came on either,an hey, should i change the high pressure hoes that connect to the pwrsteering pump
    from the engine an to the radiator, when i do change the pump? an can i jus change the shift solenoid,wit out redoin the whole trans? an does the pwrsteering pump interact someway wit the coolant or radiator on the car, it seems like it does!
    an thanks for your help to, i appreciate it,alot
  • dlk1dlk1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a similar problem with my 1994 ES 300 with 123000 miles on it. Did you ever get a diagnosis? I am considering selling my car if it needs a new transmission.

    Any help would be much appreciated
  • fromsuv2vanfromsuv2van Member Posts: 15
    Haven't read new or recent complaints about transmission flare from 2008 ES 350 owners. Does it means the problem is now fixed? For owners that recently bought ES 350 (built date after September 2007), do some of you (hopefully none) have experienced the transmission flares?

    Thanks
  • carma350carma350 Member Posts: 4
    I'm thinking of buying a 2008 ES 350 and have read the transmission flare discussions on different websites. I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to what the chance is of getting a new ES 350 with a flare problem: 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%? If the ES 350 has a flare problem, what is the chance of it being a severe problem vs. a minor nuisance: 0.01%, 1%, 10%, 90%? I've read about other problems afflicting the ES 350 such as engine knocks, interior rattling noises, and wind noise. I'm sure the ES 350 has some minor problems too but those are the major ones I can recall. The easy answer for the potential buyer is to cross off Lexus from the list. Why take the chance?

    The ES 350 was easily my #1 choice in terms of features and value. I was attracted to the Lexus brand because my impression was that Toyota and Honda generally make the highest-quality under-$40K cars in the world. What would make more sense than buying from Toyota's "luxury" division? Car magazine journalists regularly write about "legendary Lexus quality." That leads to a contradiction: Why does Toyota have such a stellar quality reputation even though it has had ongoing FWD transaxle problems since 1999? Why can't Toyota figure this out? Shouldn't Toyota thoroughly test pre-production models instead of making its customers responsible for quality assurance? Replaced transmissions, buybacks, amazing.

    It's hard to figure out the precise truth and a manufacturer is probably going to avoid transparency in this kind of situation, so I think I should move on to other makes and models. Any suggestions for FWD alternatives to the 2008 ES 350?
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