Porsche Boxster and Boxster S

tomk17 · September 2006

I'm looking at two 05' Boxsters 1 has the windstop the other does not. I'm not squawking about the $300 cost, I wish both cars had it but other options and colors further differentiate the cars. Will I be disappointed without it? Is cockpit wind "significantly" reduced or just a bit? Sales guy says he can't really tell the difference. Any input appreciated.

habitat1 · September 2006

I've hardly ever used the windstop in my 911 as it eliminates access to the jump seats and I've not noticed excessive wind noise or turbulence. I doubt it would make much difference in the Boxster.

However, a more relevant question is: can't it be ordered separately from Porsche? You should check with the parts department. If I can get a Porsche sport shifter from Porsche and have it installed by the dealer at roughly the same cost as ordering one on a new car, I would be surprised if you couldn't do the same with a non-mechanical item like the windstop.

jerseyguy1 · September 2006

My 2000 Boxster had the windstop. If you are going to do any long distance, high speed driving and want to carry on a normal level conversation then you will need it. It also does cut down the wind turbulence in the cockpit.

Given the outrageous prices on some of the Porsche options, this $300 piece of plastic seems to be worthwhile.

molawyer · September 2006

Where can I find the best price in the Midwest on a 2007 Boxster, Guards Red with Sand Beige interior, automatic temperature control, wind stop and Preferred Package? Should I expect to get $5500 or more off MSRP at this time of year? Thanks

tomk17 · September 2006

After about a year of research, 4 dealer visits, and some sleepless nights I finally did the deal and picked up my 06 Boxster on Saturday. Had a verbal deal on an 05 but my local dealer blew me away with a good deal on an 06. I saw the same price cuts last fall / winter and held out. Car is Seal Grey / black interior, has the Bose, Xenons, heated seats, and 17" wheels and crests. List $50,300 got for $41,500. That's got to be at or below invoice.

Love the color and although the 18" wheels were nice I've grown to like the thicker sidewall "fat rubber" look of the 17"s. No disrespect to owners of the 18"s, I'm sure I'd love either!

The only break-in I've heard about is to be tender on the brakes at first and keep it below 5K RPMs. This will not be a daily driver and I was informed about the little "keep alive" battery charger for those winter months. Got to get one of those, any better sources than direct from Porsche at $80 would be appreciated. That whole car shut-down thing is unique and the 10-14 day period before the shutdown happens seems short. Any input or a recap on this scenario would also be appreciated.

nyccarguy · September 2006

Fpr the first 1000 miles (correct me if I'm wrong habitat) don't run short errands with the car. Make sure you drive it for at least 20 minutes so the rings and seats can seal properly. Vary your speed on the highway.

Above all, enjoy your car! Congratulations on your purchase. Seems like you got a great price.

habitat1 · September 2006

"For the first 1000 miles (correct me if I'm wrong habitat) don't run short errands with the car."

Ahh, I've finally created an "urban legend".

Seriously, you are absolutely right. Thansk for spreading the good word.

nyccarguy · September 2006

At least you know one person is listening to you

. I don't post often, but do check edmunds every night. I agree with most things you have to say here. It is great to have an enthusiast here that really buys cars for the driving experience. Buying a $32K S2000 when you could have well afforded a Boxster (at the time) definitely means something. The 911 (to me) is just one of the sickest cars on the road and I like reading about your driving experiences with it.

agentstirling · September 2006

:confuse: :P

gord1 · September 2006

I have a 2006 Porsche Boxster S.

I am moving and want to have the car transported as I have another car I am going to drive to the new place.

Has anyone used or heard of a transport service called Tn'T?

If so, what sort of experience did you have?

Can you recommend any other company?

I am moving from Ann Arbor, Michigan to Savannah, GA

Thanks

habitat1 · September 2006

Haven't heard of that company, but if you haven't done so, might want to check with both your local Porsche dealer and ones in the Savannah area for referrals. My dealer in the Baltimore area regularly transports cars to and from the dealership and they recommended a company when I was considering selling my car to a buyer from Phoenix. They had a good reputation and gave me a decent price.

As I am sure you know, completely enclosed transport vs. open carrier is a lot more expensive.

jerseyguy1 · September 2006

My son moved from Dallas to Chicago about a year ago, the moving company simply put his car on the moving van. It was inside the truck and had no wear and tear. when they movers got to CHI they simply drove the car off of the truck.

he was moving a 1 bedroom apartment so the car probably took as much space on the truck as his furniture, etc. did.

He drives an Audi A4

slimmer · September 2006

I have a 99 and want to change the shift knob and boot. My manual calls for a set screw where the boot and shifter meet but there is no set screw. What holds the shift knob on the shifter and how do you remove?

bapcha · October 2006

I needed new front brakes at 16,000 miles. Cost me a grand. Is this normal ? The dealership's take was that I treat the road like a track [which I sheepishly admitted to doing....]. My tires [PS2 17"] lasted 16K miles too. I got an awesome deal from Costco. $760 for 4 PS2's installed!!!

Bottom-line: Is 16K miles "normal" for front brakes ?

Bapcha
2005 Base Boxster, Seal Gray/Blk/Blk/P+ Package, blah, blah.

dyl · October 2006

Got a deal on a 06 boxster, silver listed at 50k.
The Dealer asked for 40.5k but still have some room to negotiate.
I will trade in my car - but for a fair price.

The boxster was a company car serving as a service loan car - almost never used and has 500 miles on it. However, the car was titled and its not "new".

My question - is this going to be a problem when i will sell the car? Is the price I'm getting is a good deal?

Also this car will be my main car (have another car at home - wife driving it). Is it possible to drive the Porsche on a daily basis?

Last question - how reliable are the late models of the boxster? Should I expect big expenses?

Your comments will be appreciated.

dl7265 · October 2006

Well, carfax will probably reflect you being the 2nd owner. Will that matter ? Perhaps not. You just won't list it as "one owner" will you decide to move up

As for pricing Id try a little more Ive seen 9k ish off "Brand New" cars. I think the most important question is this the car you want? or are you settling , to accept a decent deal ? If option/color wise its your choice, I say go for it.

DL

habitat1 · October 2006

"The boxster was a company car serving as a service loan car - almost never used and has 500 miles on it."

That 500 miles represents about half of the "break in" miles. Take a quick guess as to how many of those "loanees" took care to not exceed 4,000 rpm or only drive the car for 15+ minutes at a time to allow it to properly warm up?

Frankly, I wouldn't touch this car. If you can afford a Boxster, you can afford to get a new one at a good deal or a slightly used one that has been properly broken in. But a loaner? - no way.

dyl · October 2006

Thanks for your comments.

I got the car for 39k.
It's true that if you believe in the break in theory you need to drive it carefully, and care for the engine - but that a controversial subject.
Also no one promise you that when you buy a used car the previous owner did break in the engine as needed.

I also think that people who drive Porsche respect those cars, part of them have better models like 911 and wont go wild in this loaner... well i hope that was the case in my new car.

gord1 · October 2006

Just got a 2006 Boxster S.

I hope this doesn't sound too stupid but...

At what RPM to you guys shift most often?

Do you think 4,000 is too high for normal driving? Will it have any impact on the longevity or maintenance cost of the engine?

How often to you rev it too the max? What is the max? Is it 7,000 or 8,000? There are some red slashes starting at 7,000 and a darker one at 8,000.

I want to enjoy the car but I also want the engine to last a while without huge repair expenses.

habitat1 · October 2006

I'll bore the regulars again, but, assuming this is a new Boxster S, you should:

(1) Keep it under 4,200 rpm's for the first 1,000 miles (that was 911, w/ 7,200 rpm redline - check your manual)

(2) Avoid short hops - drive at least 15+ minutes at a time during break-in to give the engine oil and parts time to heat up to full operating temperature and expand/contract as they are supposed to during breal in.

(3) Avoid use of cruise control - vary your engine speed during break in.

If the car isn't new and has more than 1,000 miles on the odometer, drive it like you stole it. And as far as shift points following break in, I have been told there is more carbon build up and damage done by shifting too low (i.e. dropping rpms below 2,000), than too high (but short of red-line). My average 1-2 and 2-3 shifts under normal acceleration in my 911 are at about 4,000 to 4,500 rpms. For non-highway cruising (i..e. under 55 mph), I like to keep it in a gear that keeps the rpms close to or above 3,000. I don't use 6th unless I'm over 65-70+.

P.S. These are not my recommendations from personal knowledge of mechanical engineering and materials science, of which I have little. They are from 3-4 people that I consider serious experts - including 2 former Porsche race team engineers, one AMG/Motorsport dealer that has numerous sports cars himself, and one friend who holds masters degrees in both ME and MS. Among them, there is no "controversy" about what you should do and the value of a good break in procedure.

gord1 · October 2006

Thanks Habitat1.

I should have said that I have been breaking it in according to your instructions (and the manual)and now have about 1,600 miles on it.

I was interested in how to drive it thereafter and your information was very helpful. Your sources seem pretty darn good to me.

corrman · October 2006

Has anyone out there replaced the alternator on their Boxster? I have opened the engine compartment lid, looked into the engine bay, and I blew a gasket.

Is there an easy way to pull the alt without a service garage being the answer.

Thanks,
Brad

tomk17 · October 2006

I'm looking at a few indoor car covers on eBay for my 06 Boxster. Does anyone know if a cover from the 02-04 years will still fit the slightly different body style of the 05-06 model? I have the sales books with dimensions for both the 04 and 05 styles and can check exact car dimensions but maybe someone has first hand experience. Does not have to be a perfect fit just decent.

doug18 · October 2006

I have my eye on a '02 Boxster S with 38,000 miles at a dealership specializing in high end pre-owned cars. They provide a 2mo/2,000 mile warranty and mentioned a bumper to bumper warranty up to 100,000 miles would be available for an extra $2,000. I've heard that extended warranties are rarely worth it, but am wondering if it would be worth it in this case?

Also, what should I expect the annual cost of ownership to be and how much ongoing maintenance will be needed? I don't think this will scare me off, but I at least want to have an idea before I purchase.

habitat1 · October 2006

If that 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty for $2,000 is legitimate (i.e. covers everything, with no hassles getting them to pay up), it sounds like a pretty good deal.

986 model Boxsters (and 996 model 911's) were known to have an issue with rear main seal (RMS) leaks. If the problem surfaced under warranty and led to adverse engine wear, some dealers were getting Porsche to agree to replace the entire engine. But just replacing the RMS is an expensive job.

If you plan on keeping the car for awhile, I'd consider the warranty. But I'd first make sure that the company providing it is legitimate and that they have a good history with your local Porsche dealer. My dealer has had third party warranty companies that ranged form very good to others that the customer had to fight with to get reimbursed. Or worse, refused coverage.

I can't help you on a 2002 Boxster S maintenance schedule. I just took my 2005 911 in for a 1 year / 10,700 mile oil change. (Owner's Manual says first service is 2 yrs/ 20k, but I just couldn't wait that long). Cost me $240, with 10 quarts of 0W40 Mobil 1. The full 2 year maintenance will run me around $600. But, so far, brakes, tires, and everything else look good. Call your local dealer and ask about both the warranty company and the maintenance schedule.

drjames · October 2006

"At what RPM to you guys shift most often?

Do you think 4,000 is too high for normal driving? Will it have any impact on the longevity or maintenance cost of the engine? "

Not a stupid question at all. I've had my Boxter S for almost two years and have been very happy with it. As for shifting, to be honest, I never look at the tach and RPMs. I just go by feel and sound but never race anyone. Though I do drive fairly hard, I don't hold RPMs or try to max them for the fasted launch.

seattlecruiser · October 2006

986 model Boxsters (and 996 model 911's) were known to have an issue with rear main seal (RMS) leaks.

Is this a problem all model year Boxsters are known for, or is it more common in some than in others?

habitat1 · October 2006

I'm not sure. Porsche has not been very forthcoming about the RMS leaks, at least not as far as I've seen in wirting. Every dealer I've spoken with has a slightly different story - according to my current dealer the RMS was redesigned for the 2005 Boxster and 911, but I've heard elsewhere that there may still be an issue. You might want to check out some other Porsche specific forums to get more information.

tomk17 · October 2006

I just picked up a Porsche Charge-O-Mat from a guy who lost the instructions. It's model 000-043-202-56. The one with the large plug in transformer and long cord with cigarette plug. I know what it does but can someone clarify the operation of the red, green, yellow light on it for me? When I first connect it the LED is red, if I left it plugged in does it eventually turn yellow or green? I have not put the car (2006 Boxster) away yet and will only do so for 3-4 weeks ar a time. A quick recap of the instructions would be appreciated.

drjames · December 2006

Hello, I've been thinking of storing the car away for the winter, since I rarely drive it now winter's come and stick to my RX and Camry, but have never stored any car away for such a long period of time. My dealer told me that it wasn't really necessary if I can drive it for 10-15 minutes every few weeks, but have heard otherwise. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

habitat1 · December 2006

I would modify that 10-15 minutes every few weeks to 20+ minutes every 2 weeks, assuming the battery is relatively new/strong. I have gone as long as 10-12 days without driving my 911 and there was no problem with start up. But I've heard of others that find the battery dead in 3-4 weeks. And it can get drained so far that it won't take a recharge. Twenty minutes or more of driving in (presumably) colder weather is also good to get the engine oil and parts competely warmed up. Ten minutes won't do that in my 911 (9+ quarts of oil).

If you really want to stow the car away for 2-3+ months, there are various recommendations I have heard. But I've never done that myself, so I'll let others chime in.

drjames · December 2006

hey habitat1, thanks for your input. The point about the battery is definately worth consideration. But, it's the lubrication and first start up of a 'dry' engine that worries me the most. All the snow is gone again, and the next few weeks seem to be warm.. so who, knows.. maybe I won't be putting it away afterall.

yellowcar · December 2006

Assuming you are using Porsche approved synthetic oil with a viscosity of 0W-40, you should have no cold-start problems resulting from a "dry" engine as you put it. The 0W syn oil is designed to flow immediately in these conditions, remember it gets very cold in Germany too! You may experience a short blast of dense white smoke at start-up. This occasional behavior is consistent with boxer design engines.

As to your battery, you should check on a battery maintainer specifically designed for Porsche, they usually plug into the lighter socket. Your driver-side door probably has a notch in the gasket for the power cord.

As always, driving your car frequently with a certain amount of abandon is the very best PM for both you and the car!!!

andysd · December 2006

On impulse a couple of weeks ago I bought a 99 Boxster from a San Diego Union ad - cheap price, 57,000 miles, and then got Eibach lowering springs, Bilsteins, new front brake rotors, brake pads all around, 4-wheel zero tolerance competition alignment, new front 225-45/17 Yoko Advan Neova tires, plus new rear window and a few other things including Mobil I oil change, brake fluid flush, and air filter. The 255/50-17 Pilot Sports on the rear are still good. The car has some good options  power seats with memory for the drivers, Porsche premium sound, aluminum look gauge dials, and automatic climate control. I dont know if theyre options, but it also has side airbags and cruise control. Its black with gray leather. Engine and rest passed inspection. The water pump seals are dry, often a problem I was told with Boxsters of this vintage and miles. Im not sure what interest any of this is to you, but I had to share my enthusiasm of having a Porsche again  my fourth. The first was a white 57 Speedster 1600 Super with chrome wheels bought new (obviously Im not exactly young), fast forward 42 years to a 67 912 that I autocrossed from 1999 through 2004 when the engine cratered, and a 95 silver 993 I owned for just six months in 2000 (but I found that concurrently owning four cars (a 94 C280, a much-improved 99 red/black Z28 which I still have, the 912, and the 993) were too many with a two-car garage. Since I was dedicated to autocrossing the 912, I regretfully sold the 993. Now Im really thrilled to have another open car, which we drive with the top down and the heater blowing just as we did the Speedster 49 years ago. As I recall, the Speedsters heater was like the Beetles with a knob you screwed out for heat. On request Ill email photos of the two open Porsches with the same gal in the drivers seat. Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.

andysd · December 2006

Just to correct a minor error in my posting: the rear tire size is of course 255/40-17. (Ever have thoughts like this occur to you during the night?)
Andy

andysd · December 2006

Hi DL - Never heard of it, but will check it out with the tech who inspected it, the one who did all the work (different shop), and the Sales Manager of one of the two San Diego Premier Porsche dealers with whom I corresponded about the purchase. None mentioned such a thing.
Thanks,
Andy

jgboxcat · December 2006

Hi Everyone - I just got a brand new Boxter 2007 - and just went past the 1000 miles mark (was very cautious to break in well) and today when I drove it (40mph at most for about 20 minutes) I came home and it had this terrible burning, smoking smell and now it says the TPC monitoring is inactive. The onboard computer seems to indicate that the tire pressure is off - but why the terrible burning smell? I literally had to leave it in my driveway to air it out. I also have smelled a oily smell many times while driving the car.

Anyone have the same problem? Any ideas what it might be?

habitat1 · December 2006

"but why the terrible burning smell? I literally had to leave it in my driveway to air it out. I also have smelled a oily smell many times while driving the car."

Get this car flatbedded to your dealership by roadside assistance immediately. You really don't want a bunch of Edmunds forum posters doing diagnostic speculation.

andysd · December 2006

Has this story about the "Boxter" brought the word spoof to your mind?

habitat1 · December 2006

Damn, why didn't I catch that? :surprise:

O.K. jgboxcat, since you don't know how to spell the name of your purported new car, give us any credible reason to believe your "spoofy" story. :confuse:

bccheng · December 2006

I bought a 'new' 2005 Boxster back in November 2005 with what I thought a good price - $7000 off MSRP $48000. The car had 46 miles on it and about two weeks later the dealer called me up to sign a letter indicating that the car was a demo, but nothing else was elaborated by the letter or the sales agent.

Now the car has 12000 miles on it and in general things are running fine. Earlier this week I went to another dealer for some rattling noise fix, and from their invoice I suddenly realized that the warranty has kicked in since May 2005, 6 month earlier than I actually purchased the car!

I am somehow disappointed because I think I am deceived by the dealer. Had I known that it is a demo with only 42 month of warranty left, I definitely would have negotiated the price even lower. I contacted the sales guy and he is trying to downplay the fact that they didn't tell me it was a demo. He said he is going to give me a call after talking to his manager but two days have gone by and I haven't heard a word from them.

Are there any actions that I can take right now? Suggestions are appreciated.

dl7265 · December 2006

I appoligize I deleted the post. I belive it was 98'early '99 models that were effected. I realized my error after my post.

DL

dl7265 · December 2006

Ok, a friend is about to upgrade to a '07 S model. He has offered to me his 2003 with 13k miles. At a very fair price I might add according to my research. The only recall I have found is for some shift linkage on a Tip model, which this happens to be. With the warranty expiring soon I wonder if I should start a "transmission fund" just in case. Any idea how durable these units are?

Thanks,
DL

habitat1 · December 2006

That's an odd set of circumstances for your car. A demo that in 6 months only got 46 miles on the odometer? What were they "demo-ing" - how well the car handles in reverse? :confuse:

My "new" 2005 911 had almost 50 miles on the odometer when I took delivery in September 2005. They had let me, and I suspect a few others, test drive it in the month or two between arrival and my purchase. My in-service date for warranty purposes is the day I actually took delivery.

I was also under the impression that a "demo" is not a pre-owned car and that the "in service" date with respect to the factory warranty is when you, the buyer, actually purchase it. At least that's what I was told by another dealer that had tried to sell me a true demo - with almost 600 miles on the odometer.

I'm not a lawyer and have no idea if you still have any legal recourse. But I'd get on the phone or in front of the sales manager or general manager. Losing 6 months of warranty coverage is a serious issue and the whole situation smells fishy. If you don't get satisfaction - whatever that is - contact Porsche customer service.

jgboxcat · December 2006

Hey Everyone - Trust me, I just spell badly (you guys crack me up)! The TPC warning light went on - and then the info message said "TPC inactive learning" - but my wheels looked fine - so anyway, drove it to the dealership and en route, the light went off! Anyway, my dealer didn't know what the TPC Inactive - learning message meant (does anyone know? I was sort of assuming it was doing some sort of measuring - is that it?) My dealer also said the smokey smell is normal if the clutch was revved too much - which is what happened - my brother in law took it for a ride around the block. Geezzz..I almost had a heart attack - no more other drivers in my new car!

bf109ace · January 2007

Techniques Needed - How to Up-Shift Smoothly on the 5-speed Boxster?

Test drove a 07 Boxster the other day. While I'm impressed with the smooth ride of it, I'd like to know how I can up-shift smoothly.

I've been driving a 5-speed car for over 6 years and I'm still wondering how I can achieve smooth up-shifting consistently

I usually rev up to 2500-3000rpm before shifting into the next gear up. However, I often feel the jerky engagement of the clutch and saw the passenage's head moving forward.

Is there any way you can drive a 5-speed stick as smoothly as an auto transmission? What's the normal shifting point from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. - RPMs?

Do I need to 'rev up' the throttle before putting into the next gear up (like one would do in the heel-toe downshifting)? If so, rev up how much more rpm - 1,000rpm?

I know many people can drive the stick shift smoothly. Can you share your techniques and skills? Thank you.

Richard

andysd · January 2007

No doubt someone will disagree, but I suggest:

For upshifting, non-sporty driving, shift at about 4,000 without the need to double clutch. Just push in the clutch and upshift immediately but not so quickly as to force the synchro. I do find that the Boxster engine slows down very quickly when the gas pedal is released, so you have to give some gas while letting the clutch out for smoothness. I suggested 4,000 because the Boxster engine revs so freely that at 4,000 the engine does not seem at all stressed. Even racing you don't have to double clutch with gas in between for upshifting. For racing upshifts you'd want to go to redline (or near it, as some purist will have analyzed the h.p. / torque curves for the optimum rpm) and upshift quickly but not so fast as to force the synchro.

For downshifting, non-sporty driving, I suggest experiment without double clutching; just pause before downshifting and then move the shift lever without applying a lot of force against the synchromesh, and remember to give some gas while letting the clutch out, for smoothness. If there's a lot of resistance from the synchro, then you have to double clutch, giving enough gas to raise the rpm to match the lower gear to the car speed. A lot would depend on the rpm from which you're downshifting. Of course you don't want to downshift from such a high rpm that the engine would be over-revved when you let the clutch out in the lower gear. Your owner's manual shows the speed vs rpm in each gear.

For racing downshifts you'll be braking while downshifting, and you want to downshift as fast as feasible, so you must heel-and-toe, giving gas while braking with the clutch in. I've raced a 912 for which the brake and gas pedals are well located for heel-and-toe, but I haven't raced my '99 Boxster, and (based on just one trial) find the pedals not so well located for that.

I apologize if I went too far in my thoughts.

manycars · January 2007

i bought a leftover 2003 in feb 2004, great price (car had 60 miles on it). was told it was new and that was normal mileage for a new car. after my first service i discovered that the warranty clock had started 18 months earlier! without re hashing my experience with the dealer on this... suffice to say i called porsche customer service and they assigned a "case worker. they fixed the issue(after i sent them all the paperwork - title and new car invoice) and i now go to a new dealer. hope this helps

bccheng · January 2007

Thanks for sharing your experience. I will contact porsche customer service and see how things go.

drums100 · January 2007

Has anyone ever owned or seen a Speed Yellow Boxster with Sand Beige interior? (or any interior other than Black) If so, how did it look??
Thanks.

- Jim

Porsche Boxster and Boxster S

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