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Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan

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Comments

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Even in their own road test, they got 39 mpg in the Fusion hybrid.

    http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2844a.shtml
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    They are only standard on the SEL,.
    Is there any way to retrofit it to an SE without spending so much money that you are better off just buying the SEL?
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    The Ford dealers will really bargain on price.
    Get yourself the SEL for the price of the SE.
    Take this car for a long test drive before you buy. The car drives great (V6) but the center arm rest is way too low and I find it uncomfortable on a drive over 20 minutes.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    The arm rest position depends on your height. For me I have the power seat all the way down as I'm 6'3" and find the arm rest at the right height. I just don't know how you can design it at the perfect height for everyone. My guess is they have data on a large slection of peoples sizes and make it fit the masses. I could be tall with long legs, short torso with long or shorter arms, anyway you get the picture. Sorry it don't fit you but I love my Hybrid.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    In our VW the center armrest height is adjustable, so that would be one way to make it fit more people.

    The position would, I think, not really depend directly on your height, but rather the seat height position you choose and the length of your arms. Of course a way to effectively adjust the height of the arm rest is to adjust the seat height.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    That is a really good idea to lower my seat. I will try that.
    I am 5'10" but the center rest seems to be 2" too low and 2" to far back. I drive a VW Passat also and the center arm rest is perfect. I know I will get used to it but I'm not enjoying the neck ache I get on longer drives.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I remember reading in one of these where people are complaining that the RV mirror doesn't dim enough, I have the fix for it, and it doesn't involve rotating the mirror 180 degrees upside down. Get a small piece of 35% window tint and cover the front light sensor on the mirror, the one facing forward. This will fix the problem permanently. The front light sensor is too sensitive to light, even twilight will keep it from dimming. By tinting the sensor it continues to work in the day time, but when it gets dark out, it will start to dim, and when night out, will reach full dim where all you see are the headlights in the mirror.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    My rear view mirror dims perfectly as soon as bright lights appear behind me. The darkness is just right....really dark when it needs to be. Why would there be a light sensor facing forward if the lights you are worried about are behind you?
    I do wish they would come out with an automatic dimming side view mirror!!!
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    I've noticed especially when it's foggy/rainy and all the fog is illuminated from the streetlights and other cars, my rearview hardly dims. Must think it's daytime. I'll try the tint idea. (THX!)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I do wish they would come out with an automatic dimming side view mirror!!!

    If you don't already do so, you might try adjusting side mirrors as suggested here:

    http://www.smartmotorist.com/car-accessories-fuel-and-maintenance/adjusting-your- -mirrors-correctly.html

    "For the driver's side mirror: Place the side of your head against the window, then adjust the mirror until the side of your vehicle comes into view. For the passenger's side mirror: While sitting in the driver's seat, lean to the right so that your head is in the car's centerline. Adjust the mirror until the side of your vehicle comes into view."

    With them set for a wider view like that, I've found that, in addition to nearly eliminating the blind spots, there is much less glare from side mirrors. I don't get glare from the headlights of cars that are directly behind me, I only get it on multi-lane roads from car in the other lane and that is usually only a transient thing that happens as they pass me or I pass them.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    That's how all my mirrors are set. There are some [non-permissible content removed] drivers in Dodge pickups that like to ride on the center line so their light, which is focused at the exact same height as the mirrors on the Fusion are hitting the mirrors, and unless I turn the mirror to face the road, the light still hits my face. I had one asshat deliberately try to blind me. He was behind me and the further toward the center line I got, the more he would move over. At one point I was on the line, he was in the next lane. Thankfully I found an opening to pass the guy in front of me, and took it, and he couldn't pass in time so he was no longer behind me. My mirrors are set so that I can see the entire left and right lanes, so if I want to see who is directly behind me I need to lean to the right or left, and I seldom use the middle mirror. After years of driving trucks, which don't have middle mirrors, I got so used to using the sides, that I forget its there, until someone blinds me.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    Anyone install a cigarette lighter in there 2010 Milan ?
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    What do you do for a spare key for A 2010 Mercury Milan ?
    I found this one on E-BAY,do you think it will work ?
    It's only $17.99
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2010-Mercury-Milan-Transponder-key-OEM_W0QQc- mdZViewItemQQhashZitem4838b27e1bQQitemZ310188867099QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fP- artsQ5fAccessories
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work, I don't think the keys were changed for the 2010. It is just a door/ignition key though, wont work as a remote.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    The key will still, I assume, require programming (at substantial additional cost :) ) in order to start the car.

    Maybe find a locksmith, they can often make a spare transponder key for less than dealers charge.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    If you have two working keys, you can program it yourself, instructions are in the owners manual.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    I live in Pennsylvania.
    It is winter & there is stuff in the street,looks like salt from the plow trucks.
    I wash my car & the next day it is covered with dirt that looks like sand.
    I never noticed this in previous winters.
    Possible because i had a White car until this November when i purchased a Tuxedo Black Metallic Mercury Milan Premier
    Any suggestions to keep it clean until spring when i can get a coat of wax on it.
    No i don't have a garage.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Just keep it washed. In the spring before waxing it, claybar the car with Dawn in a spray bottle. Just a few drops in an average bottle will do. This will remove anything left over after washing from the winter, and also rail dust from transporting the car from Mexico.

    Something I highly suggest from years of experience, get some Zaino and use that instead of wax, you will appreciate it after the first winter when the car cleans off nicely. Wax degrades over time and dulls the finish, and has to be removed periodically or it builds up and leave the finish looking rather blah. Zaino doesn't build up since it goes on very thin, and isn't a wax. Check it out when you have time.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Dark colors do look worse in winter. The light colored salt spray grime does not show as much on white (but other stuff does all year round). I don't like it as a car color at all, but the best all around non-dirt showing color seems to be tan.

    I don't worry too much about keeping cars clean myself. I certainly never do any waxing and don't really even wash my car...other than the free ones the dealer gives with an oil change. But, if we get a relatively warm day in winter I will sometimes just hose it off, so it is not quite so grimy looking. If you have hard water, this may not turn out too good, though. We have a hose bib set up with softened water available, so I can just hose the car off to get rid of the major filth and be left with very minimal water spots.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    Just an FYI about salt on your car. Salt has no bad effects on the finish of your car as long as the temps are below 29 degrees. It's when the temps rise above that when salt does the most most damage. Go to a quality car wash where the car is rinsed thoroughly to remove the sand and grime before the brushes go to work on your paint!
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Use a touchless car wash if you can, even the soft cloth washes can scratch the paint. Leave touch washing to your self with a soft wash mitt if you can.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2010 Mercury Milan Premier
    When i adjust the fan speed for the heater,i get an Icon of a Fan with bars indicating the speed on the radio display.And it stays on until i turn the car off.
    When i just turn on the Fan without adjusting the speed there is NO Fan icon on the display.
    Is this working correctly ?
    How doe's your's work ?
  • blumsteinblumstein Member Posts: 38
    I have a 2007 Milan Premier. When I touch "Auto" it doesn't show the fan speed. If I then adjust the fan, the speed bars do show. I suspect that the intent is that the bars show the requested speed, not the actual speed. Since auto has no requested speed, no bars show. It makes sense in that context.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The bars just mean that you're in manual mode. The fan speed won't change until you change it manually or you hit the Auto button to return the system to automatic operation. Notice that the Auto light goes off as soon as you touch any of the controls.
  • dennis4529dennis4529 Member Posts: 1
    I have been driving in New England for 30 years. I cant believe how bad this car is in the snow and ice. I had a Camry for the last 10 years which was excellent in these conditions. The Millan is by far the worst i have owned, although i really like all else. I bought used in Oct. Has to be the tires.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    What kind of tires does it have on it?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Put some decent tires on it and it will be better than the Camry. Tires make or break a car in the winter. Put bad tires on an Audi Quattro and see how poor it handles the snow!
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    My last 2 vehicles were 4WD SUV's that drove awesome in the snow. I am now in a front wheel drive 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. Chicago this year has had some good storms and yesterday's 14" was a doozy! My Fusion drove GREAT through deep slush and snow. I got out of my driveway before the plow came in the morning no problem even with the measly 6 or 7" of clearance on the underside.
    Check your tires.... they can make all the difference in the world. Also, a full tank of gas helps too!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Two words:

    Winter tires
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Are you suggesting that tires specifically designed for cold temps and for driving on snow will actually improve performance when driving on snow in cold temps?

    Who woulda thought? :blush:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Aside from the hassle and cost of having two different sets of tires, the problem with winter tires is they reduce performance in all other conditions. To me it is not worth having worse performance for ~95% of the winter in order to have marginally better performance for the 5% of the time that there is a little residual slush or snow on the roads (assuming one is generally driving where they use things like snow plows and salt).
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    I don't think you need to go the winter tire route with front wheel drive. You just need to make sure you have a quality tire with plenty of tread left on them!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    They should also be better in extreme cold (below freezing). But you weren't complaining about not having good traction in the snow.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2010 Mercury Milan,Tuxedo Black Metallic.
    I just saw a couple light scratches on the door.
    I tried Dupont Polishing Compound.
    It didn't completely remove them.
    I now have a Dulled looking area where i used the compound.
    What should i do to fix this ?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Depends on how aggressive the compound was. Use a less aggressive polishing compound first (if it exists), then use a good polish like Meguiars deep crystal system followed by a good wax.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    3M or Meguires polishing system should shine it back up. Just make sure you use the type specifically for Clear Coats, any other type will kill the finish. You want to use the swirl remover, then the clear coat polish.
  • torrytorry Member Posts: 2
    Just test drove a 2010 Fusion SE at night to evaluate the headlights, very disappointing. The low beams, even with the "fog lights" on, were awful. The high beams are OK, but let's face it most driving is done with the low beams on.
    Anyone know of a way to improve the 2010 Fusion's headlights?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Yep, two ways, first adjust them up a bit, they are pointing down too low, second, for about $100 you can install HID lamps and ballasts. 35W 6500k lamps brighten up the road considerably. Ford has always had terrible headlights, I had a 2001 Crown vic that I drove with the high beams on all the time, and yet oncoming traffic never noticed. :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Yes, they are aimed way too low from the factory. If you don't want the HIDs you can improve vision with Silverstars.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    My Inspection sticker is lifting on 1 corner.
    What can i use to glue it down so it doesn't show the glue & will be easy to remove the next time the car is inspected.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    What can i use to glue it down so it doesn't show the glue & will be easy to remove the next time the car is inspected.

    Duct Tape, the worlds bet fixit! :P There is a clear 2 faced tape that may work for this, but I wouldn't use any other kind of adhesive, it may make it worse. You may want to just use a piece of clear packing tape over it instead, just cover the whole thing and leave about 1/4" tape past the edges, in fact you may be able to find some clear tape specifically made for doing something like this at an office supply store.
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    My sisters' 2008 Milan V6 is leaking oil at 12,000 miles! She traded up from a 1991 Cougar (purchased new in 1991) that leaked oil like crazy. Thought she had put the oil spot on the garage floor behind her, now this. Ridiculous. I crawled under and made sure the filter and drain plug weren't leaking. They aren't. Leak is coming from somewhere higher up on the engine. Anyone else have this problem? Car is sitting at the dealer now, waiting for the heavy-line tech to look at it. Advisor says he is backed up and may not be able to look at it until tomorrow. :mad:
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    Dealer service advisor said the oil leak was traced to a defective oil filter that was leaking at a seam. Also, the drain plug seal had a very small nick in it. They replaced the drain plug seal and changed the oil and oil filter... all good now ($35 total).
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Sometimes it can be the simplest things, yet people will blame the car. :confuse: Not saying you were, but it did came across that way a bit. This morning I took my Fusion in to have a vibration looked at, they think it is just the tires, but I could not replicate the problem today due to the weather, it is snowing so I can't drive like I normally do to show the tech what I am feeling when I slow down. They rotated the tires, needed to be done anyway, and fixed my one wiper that was dragging and driving me nuts. The wiper blade that was installed was the wrong one, how that happened, don't know, but it was on the car when I got it, NEW. Works the way it should now. Here I thought is was a problem with the car, but nope, it was just the wrong blade. When the weather clears I can go back after work and take it out for another test with the tech so he can feel it for himself. It is most prevalent when slowing from 55-60 to make a turn.
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    FYI; If it only vibrates when you are applying the brakes, then it's probably a brake rotor problem. If, when the wheels are remounted after rotatation, they don't torque the lug nuts properly, the brake rotor will be ever-so-slightly distorted, which will result in uneven wear on the rotor. Over time this will result in enough uneven wear that you will feel it as a pulsing or vibration when the brakes are applied. If it is one (or both) of the front brake rotors, you'll feel it (and see it) at the steering wheel.
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    Thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Don't think I've seen this tested anywhere, but you're likely looking at the low 7s.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Oh I am quite aware what the problem is. I used to work on cars full time and got my ASE in brakes, suspension, alignment and a few other areas. The problem is, I know its a warped rotor, in the rear, but it is only slightly warped so it is only apparent during certain braking situations when the rear brakes are actually applied. With the way the weather was on Saturday, I was not able to apply the brakes in such a way to demonstrate the vibration. The tires were also vibrating, which may be just the road being sent through due to the very short sidewalls. Braking can amplify these vibrations, and that is what the tech is thinking because I was not able to get the car to shake the way it does when slowing from 60-30 for making a turn. I will bring it back in when the road conditions and my time permit. I know it is in the rear, I just don't know which side without jacking it up, pulling a wheel and putting my dial gauge on the rotors.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I give up what is the small compartment to the right of the glove-box for?
    The owner's manual does not fit.
    To big for the registration.
    Not deep enough for a map.
    Is it for gloves?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    what is the small compartment to the right of the glove-box for?

    I think the engineers did that just to screw with us. Hey there is a little extra room here, what shall we do with it? Lets make it a cubby just to screw with the people buying it. :)
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