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I'll be buying from them in about 7 months, before car reaches 12months/12,000 miles
MAXX......Did you check the prices if you buy before the 3/36 is up instead of buying before 12mth/12k?
The price is cheaper if you buy it when new, a little more $$ if you buy before 12/12 and yet more if you bought before the 3/36.
I didn't get into it to figure which would be the best deal.....
With 5k in rebates ...I just bought another truck!.......
Worth checking tho!
GM Outlet wins, they are offering:
5yr / 40k for $855
5yr / 50k for $1035
Leaning toward the 5yr/40k
They beat Capper only by $20., due to a 1 week special that ends Friday. Alan at GM Outlet was excellent to talk with!! Full of good advice & info, he mentioned 10/1 GM will come out w/new pricing, and it will be more!
Remember tho: Those GMPP warrantees START when the car is in service tho.
So I can assume you got 40k and 5 yrs OVER your 3/36 right?
Thanks again, only decision left is either the
5yr/40k at $855 or
5yr/50k at $1035
Some say a ex-warranty is a crap shoot !
I know from experience a new computer is $1000,
a trans $2500, and so on.......
For some its a good piece of mind !
Me: I never buy them for my Caddies...Only my snow plow trucks !
I tend to keep cars at least 7+ years ... my current car is a 1994 Ford Escort LX that I bought in 1996 after another person's lease.
A lot of new-car warranties seem to run 3yr/36K ... with an occasional one (e.g., VW) going up to 5yr/60K.
So the questions are ... since I intend to keep my car at least 2-4 years more than the normal warranty, is an extension worthwhile beyond any peace-of-mind issues? Is there any impact by which manufacturer I pick, on whether the ext. warranty is worthwhile?
If yes, is it better to buy soon after getting the car? Or wait until closer to the end-mark of the original warranty? (I'm guessing not to get it at the same time as purchase, from what I'm reading on these boards.)
Thanks,
sapphireblue
I will be buying my GM warranty during the 11th month of ownership. No need to part with my money after purchasing my car, when I can buy the new car warranty at the same price 11 months later.
Now for my opinion: if you buy the Highlander, CR-V, Vibe or Matrix, I would definitely NOT buy an extended warranty. While things do go wrong with Hondas and Toyotas, and the parts are expensive, things don't go wrong THAT often with these manufacturers. If you buy the Subarus, which DEFINITELY have very expensive parts, but are generally reliable cars, you have a 50/50 proposition there in my opinion (I'd buy the extended on any Subaru). I'd steer you away from the Passat, which is waaay overpriced for what you get, and the reliability is marginal at best. And as I leave you: don't forget to look at the Maxx!!
Having said that, we got a 7/100 Subaru Gold warranty, and that includes 7 years of roadside assistance. That alone saved us $497 in AAA membership fees. Factor in slightly better resale if you sell after maybe 6 years or so, and the warranty itself was nearly free.
If you pay for roadside assistance, that's something to consider.
-juice
-juice
I'd go back to the dealer to at least clarify.
-juice
However after much research and something nagging at the back of my brain I came to realize these extended warranties are a very bad investment. Insurance is a great way to share catastrophic risk among a large group (such as home insurance). But buying insurance on relatively small ticket potential repairs is ridiculous. You will come out way ahead if you put that premium in a savings account and earn some interest. My credit-union is offering a 60 month term-deposit at 4.4% compounded monthly and you should be able to get something similar.
Worse case scenario you may have a necessary repair for $1k-$2k, or a run of smaller repairs totalling this amount, (about the premium anyway) which your average person can easily cover through a personal loan, savings, or using the premium stored in the bank account. And what are the odds of this size repair on a reliable vehicle? Not very good!
Unless you have absolutely no confidence in the vehicle you have bought (which begs the question why buy it in the first place????) this is a suckers game. If your house burned down and you didn't have insurance most likely you would be in huge financial trouble. If your car needs a $900 repair then pay it! Don't fall victim to the scaremongering that your car could be the worst lemon ever created........well it could be but the odds are tiny and you would simply trade it in after your realized this and use the premium as a downpayment on a reliable vehicle.
Assume the extended warranty premium is $1300.00 for a 5 year/100k warranty, and your annual credit card rate is the average 18% p.a. (probably around 21% in 5 years). Instead of buying the warranty pay this $1300 off your credit card debt today. This is equivalent to making a $1300 investment earning 18% p.a. TAX FREE! Assuming you were going to buy the 5 year warranty this $1300 investment today in 5 years will be worth $3000. Thats a $3000 gain in savings TAX FREE.
So if you do have at least $1300 in credit card debt and will most likely carry this balance of $1300 over the 5 years then the extended warranty is actually costing you $3000 after tax (around $4000 pre-tax income for the average consumer). Do you anticipate $4000 worth of repairs in just 5 years?
I beg to differ, prices for repairs have skyrocketed, some tranny replacements can run $4-6 grand. To a lot of people that is catastrophic.
Debt-free here so that doesn't apply to me.
-juice
OR
When that $5000 auto trans. poops out on your Subie outback after warranty period.
$2000 struts, $1500 computers, $1000 ABS module and so on !
I read horror stories about these parts pooping out after warranty on these threads. A loose piece of plastic trim ain't nothing !
You could use your 25% int. credit card to pay the bill.
Most folks don't realize the $250 dollar fix just ain't there anymore. Most so caled minor repairs that are covered by warranties
(if you have one) are very $pendy nowadays !
Its a crap shoot......and for some folks a good choice!
There was another fella around here called Spyderd98 (spl). He had one of those Mitsu. Spyders and a Warranty Gold policy !
Every WEEK that car was getting fixed ! Prob. after prob. He posted that they did fix it !
Sometimes with junkyard parts etc. but they fixed it!
A year or so passed and he posted faithfully about his experiences....
Finally Warranty Gold went broke ! We twisted him a bit about it! But he got his moneys worth!
He posts now under a different handle....Maybe he will chime in here!.................
Plus not factored in is the risk of the warranty company not paying claims or going bust......read around this is a real risk and an oddsmaker would probably say around 20%.
If $4-$6k is catastrophic then I have news for you.....you cannot afford the vehicle plain and simple!
But also not factored in is the peace of mind aspect and I know fear has been bred into the american psyche for centuries now and is hard to escape from. My advice just please calculate the odds. I think you would do better to take your $1k premium to your local casino and play some blackjack. At least the casino will pay out
I calculate my risk as follows: "Toyota" Vibe: no warranty needed; I don't expect problems with Denso parts. Chevy Malibu Maxx: Oh yeah; you better believe I'm getting a warranty; a manufacturer's warranty that is.
True..... Some vehicles I wouldn't purchase a ex-warranty for either for the drivetrain stuff....
BUT...Those $pendy sensors, computers, and other things can suck your wallet dry in no time....
Stick with a manufacturer's warranty. Even then I'm not sure a Daewoo one is much good now. ;-)
They use OE parts, not junkyard or aftermarket stuff.
Subaru will refund their Gold warranty if it's never used.
-juice
Warranty Gold was A++++ whatever rated by them a year or so back.......
Then they went belly up... as you can read here in this thread !
-juice
I believe it was the 6yr/75,000 mile for around $700.
Around 50,000, the tie rod, upper and lower, wore out prematurely.
Around 60,000 the engine crapped out and needed a new one. It was back-ordered due to the high demand on replacement engines (scary thought right there). Even though I wa ssupposed to get a free "loaner car" according to my warranty, the dealer I went through said that they couldn't do that but they would put me up in a rental. ESP would only pay up to $30 per day....the engine replacement took approx 30 days.
When I returned the rental car, I wa sgiven a bill for about $280 by the rental company. They said with daily tax and such, the Ford ESP didn't cover it all.
:-P
weenies
After getting the "Exploder" back, the AC didn't work. Took it back three times to get that "fixed". Two of those times required a "rental".
Moral of the story.
I saved a bunch of money by spending for the ESP.
I lost a bunch of money/time buying an Exploder.
I am planning to buy-out the car and keep it for at least 7 years. My question to this group is whether I should be considering Extd warranty. My dealer said that it is still available. Is the car reliable enough to last another 4 years without mechanical and electronic problems?
Thanks
In summary, I personally would not purchase an extended warranty on a vehicle that traditionally has been very reliable, like the Acura TL, especially if Acura has already extended its Powertrain coverage, but if you want to do so, shop around.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Message Board
Having said that, you are correct that these are very reliable vehicles and are not prone to failures. My intent was to find out from this audience if anyone has had a TL long enough and whether I should be worried about any major issues in the next 4 years or so.
Thanks once again.
The only other things have been maintenance items...1 battery, 2 sets of tires, wiper blades, air filters, tranny and radiator flush, alignments and the 3750 mile oil changes. She still loves the car and hopefully we'll keep it till 100k.
With her next car, I will definitely look for an extended warranty. I'd like her to try the Accord, as we've never owned a Honda yet. Nissan and Toyota have been our only autos since 1988 and we're quite happy with them!
The Sandman :-)
A warranty would have cost half as much and we'd have had a perk to help boost resale value.
And yes, there were no major repairs. Engine and tranny were fine. It was the little stuff, wheel bearings, O2 sensor, axle boots, etc.
-juice
I asked if I could think about it and he said this is the contract today!!! He was so excited!
He discouraged me from using GEICO saying the deductible is $250 and they don't using Subaru parts.
I ended up saying no to all except the 2.9 financing because I didn't think of researching this stuff beforehand. The extended warranty from Subaru is about $1450 to extend the warranty to 6 years and make it bumper to bumper. And come to think of it maybe going with GEICO may be a mistake because "what if they drop me" or I change insurers?
So....... if I maintain my new Outback, do I really need an extended warranty and if I do get one..did I really have to get it today (delivery is 9/23 Thursday) and what should I pay for how much more coverage???
Thanks, Guys!
—Gary
If you get insurance with Liberty Mutual, they have a special program where they will use OE Subaru parts for the life of your car. It does cost more than I'm paying for my insurance, though (as expected).
As for the warranty, I would stick with a Subaru Gold, even if you need to include a small deductible for each claim, maybe $50 or $100, to make it more affordable.
You'll get 6 years of roadside assistance with that warranty, BTW.
-juice
So I went with GEICO because they didn't pull that nonsense.
How do I find out the best prices for Subaru Gold?
G dub
The trick is to find a motivated seller.
-juice
Now here's the part that got me, he said that once my truck (2004 Nissan Titan with 11,200 miles on it) rolls over 12k miles the coverages start going down and I won't be able to get the 100k ESC. I called major BS, but he was adimant.
I've never heard that before, I know the price goes up some after 12k miles, but I always thought you could buy the new vehicle ESC up until 36k miles. He said no, that once its over 12k miles its no longer eligable for the new car ESC. Major BS or is he right about Nissan Security plus?
Your best bet is to do some surfing and find a big Nissan dealer that sells ESCs on-line - call and get the facts.
Terry.