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So far at 12,000 miles or so, I have had no problems. None. The only light flicker I notice is the dash lights will flicker when under hard acceration. I suspect the alternator/regulator cannot keep track of the load when all of the lights are on, radio, AC, etc. and then have a sudden RPM change...
But so far no rattles, no whistles, no rotor problems, AC works good (note here: I talked with the service rep about low output and he stated that at some temps, i.e. below 40 or so, the AC just wont run) and have some problems with clearing fog from the windows (see previous note).
All said and done I would buy it again.
Mark Delagasse
Yakima, WA
Trouble Spots
Here's a good link and list of know problems with the GM vans. In this case the Buick. I am sure it fits true for all of its sister models.
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2005-to-2006-buick-terraza-2.htm
Check-engine light: The check engine light may come on due to failure of the EGR valve. The Delphi valve is to be replaced with a Seimens valve kit and have the PCM flashed. (2005-06)
Electrical problem: The PCM was being replaced for a defective chip under a voluntary emissions recall because it affected the fuel pump and EGR system. (2005)
Electrical problem: If the OnStar system quits or won't come on (no power), but comes back to life if the fuse is removed for five minutes, the vehicle communications interface module must be replaced or else the problem will recur. (2005-06)
Engine noise: A whistling noise from the 3.5L engine during acceleration is corrected by replacing the PCV tube. (2005)
Engine stalling: The engine may not start, may start then quit, and/or assorted warning lights may glow because the wiring connector under the driver seat may get wet and the contacts corrode. (2005-06)
Fuel gauge: The engine may not start or may stall because the tank is empty yet the gauge shows fuel remaining, or the fuel gauge will not show full after refilling due to sulfur corrosion of the fuel level sender and if after treating with Fuel System Cleaner PLUS the problem remains, the sender may need to be replaced. (2005-06)
Headlights: The headlights and interior lights may flicker requiring replacement of the alternator. (2005)
Horn: The horn may require extra pressure on some spots of the steering wheel pad. Softer springs are available to retrofit. (2005-06)
Consumer Guide® Estimated Repair Costs
This table lists costs of likely repairs for comparison with other vehicles. The dollar amount includes the cost of the part(s) and labor (based on $50 per hour) for the typical repair without extras or add-ons. Like the pricing information, replacement costs can vary widely depending on region. Expect charges at a new-car dealership to be slightly higher.
Item Name Repair Cost
A/C Compressor $855
Alternator $610
Automatic Transmission or Transaxle $3,240
Brakes $540
Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bearing
Constant Velocity Joints $1,520
Exhaust System $540
Radiator $650
Shocks and/or Struts $930
Timing Chain or Belt $760
NHTSA Recall History
2005 Terraza: The emergency brake may not fully disengage when released, causing unintended braking while accelerating, decelerating, or coasting. Dealer will inspect the parking brake lever and replace the rear brake calipers as necessary.
2005 Terraza: When parking brake is released, driver may notice unintended braking while accelerating, decelerating or coasting, accompanied by noise from rear of car.
2006 Terraza: Some vehicles may have a misprinted tire and loading label that lists inaccurate capacity weights. Dealer will replace the label.
Uplander/Montana/Relay/Terraza TSBs and Problem Codes
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Thanks,
Dave
Electrical problem: The PCM was being replaced for a defective chip under a voluntary emissions recall because it affected the fuel pump and EGR system. (2005)
And these also seem to play fine in the van, though the green label Verbatim +RW discs worked pretty well too.
The first bunch of recordings I made was using an MPEG2 converter connected to my PC (input video / audio to the MPEG2 box connections, connected it to the PC using USB2 port), along with some editing software and the DVD burner in my PC. But by far the most of my copies have been made since I purchased a Philips standalone DVD recorder and hooked it up in my entertainment system.
The Philips works pretty much like a VCR, if a bit slow to initialize when you first turn it on and slow to load disc information when you insert one (recorded or blank). The reason I bought it was that it's much quicker and easier to use than the PC route, which usually involved tons of software and settings. With the standalone I just select the input I want to record, insert a blank disc, and set the recording quality mode (HQ, SP, SPP, LP, etc.) like you'd do for a VCR tape. It shows me the image from the source along with a brief display of the recording time based on the blank I have inserted and the recording mode I've selected. Then it's basically just hitting the record button to start and the stop button to end (or using the quick setting that lets you set it to record 30, 60, etc. minutes). It can also be programmed to record a certain channel at a certain time, and appears to have VCR+ built in, but I only use mine for dubbing old VHS tape to DVD, so I can't vouch for how well it works using those features.
I am sure you already knew the answer to this, but hey
Just took it on a long trip up and down mountain roads and got 21plus MPG round trip. On the highway getting over 24 as high as 27 with the 3.5 ltr engine.
Things that have driven me a little nuts include the rotors (cut twice now in 32K miles; I anticipate getting new ones for free at or near 36K); a slight but persistent rattle near the front of the overhead console that the dealer's shop tech couldn't hear; my wife and kids are claiming the DVD eject button doesn't work every time; and perhaps the most bothersome--the road noise from those Goodyear Integritys! They're the second set, too--I got them at 20K for almost nothing since I complained how noisy the original ones were...almost like a 'monster truck'. These ones are getting there. I do think some of it might be that my Chevy dealer admits to not rotating tires the way the owner's manual says to...they only go front-to-back unless you tell them otherwise (even though their invoices say "Rotate tires per specs"). I don't believe I ever got a correct rotation there until this last time, at 29K. I marked the tires and they did get it right, but I had to tell them to do it this way!
Bill P.
Regarding your rotors, can you request heavier duty rotors? Maybe pay the difference? I not looking forward to rotor problems. My wife drives the Van mostly and she's a heck of lot easier on brakes than I am. So, maybe we won't face this problem for a while.
We have a little rattle but learned to live with it. It's from the passenger side sun visor, where the visor arm goes into the ceiling. If I put my hand on it while driving the rattle stops. Doesn't bother me since I usually play the radio and the rattle is not loud at all.
We're still pleased with the Van and the price we paid that included all of the extras. We really would have had to pay Toyota or Honda about $10K more for the same features. I have 3 kids and that extra $10K goes a long way. :shades:
Also, you may ask them to look at the multi-page GM Service Bulletin about checking rotors, put out in summer '06, that mentions that dealers should also even "consider" replacing brake pads for free--which are clearly listed in the warranty booklet as owner responsibility--for up to 24K miles. If they should "consider" doing this, why wouldn't they resurface rotors under warranty? This is clearly a case of the Service Dept. not fully understanding the GM New Car Warranty.
Bill P.
No. You are assuming that everyone is "just like [you]" and I am not. I will comment on the power stuff later.
"The safety ratings are unacceptable and side curtain airbags MUST be added. Even if it costs more, its for the safety of our kids. . . ."
What kids? I have no kids. I bought a minivan mainly to carry cargo. If you are just carrying kids, why not just buy a passenger car? Now back to your desire for "power roll down second windows."
I thought you wanted your vehicle to be "safe for kids"? If you want to put kids in the second row seats, then do you want them falling out of open windows?
I buy vehicles with air conditioning and rarely open windows at all. My car (yes I have both a car and a minivan) does not have power windows. You might not know this, but just about every testing group as confirmed that there is no significant energy saving if you turn off your AC and open your windows. In fact, depending on the vehicle, at higher speeds, you are probably getting worse mileage with the windows open.
Also, they are a waste of money simply buying the vehicle in the first place -- yes, you do pay for "standard" stuff like power windows if they are included.
Lastly, they just add more bits and pieces to go wrong. In our family we have had some cars with power windows and just about every car with power windows (even Japanese cars) has eventually had problems with them. Usually it is the little switches in the doors to control the windows that go bad. True, not all the switches go bad. Usually it is just one. But that one is enough of an annoyance.
The same applies for "power rear vents". I have 1 power rear vent in my minivan. I have opened it exactly once, to see if it works. It does. So now what? Am I supposed to turn on my air conditioner and then open the vent to let the cool air out? Is that what it is for? Or maybe I am supposed to play with it until the motor breaks so I can pay to get it repaired. Is that the point? Or is the point to add unnecessary weight which wastes fuel to show off that I have money to burn? (No, I do not.)
So you want all GM vehicles to be the same? Good. Get rid of all that nonsense. Put the money into better construction, better built motors and transmissions, longer warranty coverage. If all GM minivans should be the same, then *that* is what they should be like.
I saw it on a GM parts website. It's about $4k. Just wonder if it's easy to install and worth the price.
Thanks
Also, does the AWD perform well in the snow and wet weather as far as traction around curvy roads and on hills?
https://www.acc-acc.ca/acc/main/accdetail.asp?partid=2303&orgpartid=544510.
Don't know about installation but it should be simple enogh to figure out. The only part would be getting the electricity to the chair for operation.
As for the traction control in the rain it might be a worth while investment depending where you lived. If you live in a constant rainy city live Vancouver,BC it would pay for its self .... lol
As far as performance goes, there is not a lot of difference because the AWD has an axle ratio of 3.69 versus 3.29 on FWD. We tow a boat that weighs 3,000 pounds, and I feel the higher number axle ratio does a better job. The 3.9 V6 with AWD would have been the ultimate, but GM did not offer that.
We had a mild winter in St. Louis last year, but just playing around the AWD was certainly reassuring!
The Uplander's got a lot more frills and gets about the same milage, so we're leaning that way.
We just placed an order for a 2008 Montana SV6 extended (they still sell them in Canada). Should be ready for March 1. Looking forward to the upgrades from our 2004 Montana regular wheel base. We have really enjoyed the Montana and it was a real work horse for my wife's business.
I went to other car dealerships just out of spike and test drove three different vans all same year make and model. They ALL pulled to the right.
I contacted GM. They told me they are aware of the problem, but are not doing any recalls. They only had 3 complaints so far on file. They have to meet a quota of complaints before the issue a recall. Two years later no recall. I thought they siad it had to do with the traction control.
This is the same issue with the Uplander. GM did replace an entire set of tire for one person because the wear on the tire tread.
My advice is to call GM and/or write to file your complaint. I was #4 on the list.
Hope this helps. If you dont believe me go and test drive your model on a lot. They made the 2006 with the same problem
Our 2005 does not pull.
What were the symptoms of front wheel bearings needing replacement? Just today I had our dealer replace the steering rack and put four new brake rotors on. It steers and brakes wonderfully, but my wife pointed out that it is making an absolutely new noise, and I agree. When you drive down the road, we now hear a low hum that reduces when you slow down and stops when you stop. Wheel bearings come to mind. I can't get it back in to the shop for a few more days. I'm a particular customer and I'm sure they'll roll their eyes when I come back in there.
Thanks,
Bill
It's specific to this vehicle. I drive a '99 Outback and before that a '96 K1500 (which is still around) and we've had none of these kinds of problems with those vehicles. I think the Outback still has its factory wheel bearings at 150K miles and the brakes have been done two or three times with one new set of rotors. The truck has gone 40K since I've had it without needing either, and I plow with it.
Hopefully our kids will be out of the minivan age bracket soon - this unit has the best ground clearance of any AWD minivan, which we need on our road between slow plowing and impressive ruts, but it's a turkey and the 3/36 warranty stinks. It'll be paid off in a few months, thank goodness.
I bought the Pontiac based on my positive experience with the Chevy truck, but I'm unlikely to buy another GM, at least not a truck. My Subaru has been great, and they're advertising that 95% of their vehicles sold in the past 10 years are still on the road, so I think we'll get another one for our next vehicle. If they're just get off their duffs and make a minivan, they couldn't keep 'em in stock in New England.