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Chevy Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza

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Comments

  • gostraightgostraight Member Posts: 2
    the rear of your van can be fixed. they have to use full contact shims to correct rear camber and toe. most alignment technicians do not like to do this, merley becuase they do not know how, or,they think its a pain in the a--. however, i am a alignment technician that does not tollerate tire wear for any of my customers. it is costly, but so are your tires. instead of cam bolts in the front, the tech., can elongate your front struts to achieve camber specs. i suggest finding a alignment place to do your alignments. why? once you have an alignment done, they own your tires. have it done every 12,000 miles or 12 months. they will either align it right or keep on replacing your tire for free. its an alignment guarantee.
  • natenbeckienatenbeckie Member Posts: 10
    So my ABS and TCS lights have started coming on again more and more frequently lately (nearly every time I drive it now). Tonight when I got it home I left it running in the driveway (since it clears the codes when you turn the key off - what a genius idea) and plugged in to it and got a "C0035 - LF wheel speed circuit malfunction."

    I did a quick Google search and up popped TSB 08-05-25-004. This TSB seems to cover every GM model made in the past 5 years from Vettes to GMC trucks to Caddys. Wonderful GM. So you have a faulty wiring setup on the ABS sensors on all of your late model cars and trucks and you don't do anything about except release a TSB. And shame on the NHTSA for not mandating a recall because the ABS system isn't considered a mandatory safety system. This issue is listed with the NHTSA BTW.

    Google that TSB...you'll see.

    Now I am going to have to spend hours of my time tracking down phantom wiring issues with a broken leg and spend money on a replacement harness more than likely. Thanks for the kick in the nards again GM!
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    One of my previous GM vehicles had ABS problems. After $3,000+ in troubleshooting and wire tracing repairs, the problem still wasn't resolved. My local mechanic hinted that if ABS cannot be fixed for "reasonable" repair cost, then perhaps its fuse should be pulled. I pulled its fused (drove it like a non-ABS / non-TCS vehicle - like my many previous 60-70-early 80 vehicles) and it ran great afterwards. Actually, that GM vehicle suddenly had better brakes then its factory "electronic over loaded" braking system. Even on bad winter roads.

    Not suggesting you should pull its ABS fuse (liability thing) but.... Worked great for my previous GM vehicle....

    BTW: Did I mention that some GM vehicles are base configuration "without" ABS system? For example, 2007 GM Saturn IONs and the 2003 Buick Rendezvous. With no-ABS in its base configuration, it makes me believe that ABS is "optional" - not mandatory in any vehicle. Something to think about as well...

    .
  • tikitoridetikitoride Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I was hoping you could tell me where I would find the ABS system fuse or relay so I can pull mine. I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana. I have been told by a reputable technician that my hub speed sensor is likely the reason my ABS light comes on intermittently. I have been told by GM that this system on my vehicle is can be hard to diagnose properly and expensive to repair! I really think I can live without the ABS feature so I have been searching for the fuse in the fuse box with no luck. Do you know exactly where it is?
  • tikitoridetikitoride Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I was hoping someone could help me locate the fuse location? for the ABS system on my 2004 Montana.
  • jwcarterjwcarter Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to this forum, so I'll start off by saying that I've had very similar experiences with my Relay, specifically with brakes and tires. Cupping a huge problem, partly because of the crappy Goodyear Integrity tires and partly because the alignment off the floor was a bit off. Kept cooking tires until I finally replaced with the Cooper CS4 Touring and had alignment done. (Solved that problem). Finally at the point where I'm replacing rotors, and - hint - most OEM rotors are crap. Designed for cost and weight requirements, NOT durability under heat, and they warp and wobble. $45 per rotor for new ones, and not a shake.
    Was wondering - do any of you with the Relay (or sister) who have the steel wheel/plastic wheel cover have a lot of noise as the wheel turns and rubs the plastic cover?
    Mine has always made noise and I've heard rumors Saturn addressed this with a shim or washer that holds the cover 1/4" from the wheel and keeps the edges from rubbing. Local dealer says he's heard nothing about it. Any suggestions?
  • fufunbeanfufunbean Member Posts: 1
    Newer owner of an 05 Saturn Relay. Purchased about 2 months ago.

    111K miles
    Relay 3 AWD

    We were running about 75mph on the interstate and started up a steep, but short, hill. The van kicked down from OD to 2nd gear, rev'd to around 5500rpm and kicked off my cruise control and kicked ON my check engine light.

    In addition, I just had an alignment/rotate/balance completed. The shop suggested the both front wheel bearings needed changed. I haven't noticed any grinding or any other noise coming from the front hubs. Is this a common issue with these vehicles?
  • markdelmarkdel Member Posts: 56
    edited May 2010
    Well I have read all of the posts since my first, and am amazed by my good luck. I have owned a Relay III now for 4 years. I have 57,000 miles, and no repairs. No rotor problems, no trim falling off, and no tire cupping, nada.

    The only thing I had to do is replace the factory tires (they were absolute junk) and change all of the fluids at the 30,000 mile point. I went in for an oil change and the service manager showed me samples of my other fluids and it was time. So, thats it. Fluids and tires, plus little things like windshield whiper blades. I do have the AM radio problem, which makes it hard to listen to the road side warning messages (AM 1610 or 530), but I listen to XM radio most of the time so I live with it, and I did have to replace the battery once at the 36,000 mile point, but, I think it is more in the line of being a consumable.

    Oh, and I did put in upgraded headlight bulbs. I read another post where one gentleman stated that the H11 bulbs were too dim and he put in H9's, which required a mod. I agree. I found some H11 bulbs on the internet by Nokya that list their output at 7,000 Kelvin (Blue/Violet) vs. the stock H11's that list 2,500 Kelvin (warm yellow/white). The Nokya's are much brighter, although they are also blue in hue. They are called Artic Blue bulbs. :)

    Mark
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Member Posts: 16,027
    I would say you may very well be due to have the rear wiper motor conk out--a $294.00 total repair on my '05 Uplander. But I have heard that the '06's have improved wheel bearings and brakes over the '05. The wheels looks the same except that '06's and later have six lug nuts, instead of five. I'd say that the molding thing would have been fixed by the '06 models.

    I really do think they're the best-looking vans out there, but mine has had issues. I will say that the dealer has gone out of his way to assist, even after warranty, so the cost of ownership has been pretty low. Of course, since they're discontinued, the resale value is awfully low. But I plan on holding on to mine. You always hear how the Honda Odyssey is such a wonderful minivan, but look at their forum in vans. Trans and other issues all over the place.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Fufunbean,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me with more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • genmtrfangenmtrfan Member Posts: 78
    I have posted here a few times over the past 5 years and the things I notice about the forum is how low the activity and complaints are here. Considering that there are a few hundred thousand of these vans out there, my opinion is that these vans don't deserve the reputation they've gotten from the car reviewers. Sure, some have problems, and all lack some features, but like you said, look at the major issues the other guys are having. So, here's our story:

    We bought our new Uplander LT 3.5 liter in May 2005, so it's now 5 years old. In terms of repairs, the cost of ownership has been low. Outside of warranty, I've spent a total of $86 on non-maintenance or normal wear items, the repairs were to replace a release handle on the third row seat and to replace two stabilizer links in the front. We have 93K miles on the van and it's still mechanically very reliable.

    It did spend quite a bit of time in the shop the first year as GM worked out the typical first year bugs-new alternator for flickering lights, door molding, rattle in airbag fixed, horn springs replaced to make it easier to engage. If you are looking at an '05 model, then confirm that these things have been addressed before you buy. Also a recall to re torque a bolt in the engine. These were all comon complaints for the 2005 model year and I classify all of these as design issues that were rectified by GM, free of charge. I'm not saying that I enjoyed the hassle, but given that I paid 23,800 for a vehicle that listed for 30,500 it was worth it. I got the discount through GM card points and a 2k rebate. Our van is Silver with DVD system, XM, remote start, and power sliding doors.

    What do I like about it? Favorite features are the DVD player and wireless headphones that have worked perfectly from day 1, and with 4 kids that's a miracle. The sliding doors have worked flawlessly and are also a must with lots of kids. I also like the rear backup sensors and narrowness of the van. It's plenty big inside and easier to park than others. I think it has a soft ride with reasonable handling and is a great interstate cruiser. Mileage averages 20 around town and 24 on the road. I've always liked the look of the wheels as well and the rear 115v plug is a useful feature at times to charge batteries. The dash and front materials are also upscale and nicely designed. I also like the fact that it has a timing chain, so no $1,000 expense at 70K like the Honda's. GM has also resolved the intake gasket issue on these motors, so no leaks to worry about and still no oil burning on ours. I also like that our vehicle does not have Stabilitrack or traction control. There have been several complaints about those systems on this forum, I'd look for an '05 model without those systems.

    What do I not like about it? For 99% of the hauling, the fold-down seats are fine, but they are really heavy and difficult to remove, should you need to completely remove them. However, there is a ton of room if you remove them all. For daily driving the power is ok, but under a heavy load (vacation) the engine struggles a bit to stay at high speed on the iinterstate, mainly under hilly terraine. In 2006, the bigger engine was and option, then standard in '07 and '08. I also don't like the fact that the fuse box has to be removed to get the battery out. I messed it up, which cost me a trip to the dealer. Be careful when you are replacing the battery and don't take the fuse box completely apart, just remove it. It's also a bummer that curtain airbags in the rear seats are not offered.

    In summary, after 5 years and 93K miles I would definitely make the same purchase. With no engine, major electrical or transmission problems at all, we plan to keep it another couple of years. And why not? Look at all of the issues on the Honda site, not $200 items, but 4,000 transmissions. Sure, those vans may have some nice features, but for my money this van was and still is a no-brainer since we planned to drive it long-term. We're getting ready to confidently drive it on a summer vaction of about 1,300 miles. I'll report back when we return. A/C is still cold and it will need to be where we're going (along with a gas mask). I'm sorry that GM is out of the van business. People in my situation will be buying a new one soon from someone.
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Member Posts: 16,027
    I gotta tell you, I'm GM-loyal, but our Uplander has truly tested that feeling.

    Bought new July 1, 2005. Currently has 81K miles.

    It had the usual teething issues (side moldings needing reapplied a few times; dimming headlights) but those were corrected under warranty. I haven't really had many sliding door issues, like others. I keep the gold contacts clean (using rubber eraser or sometimes an SOS pad) and the door works fine 99% of the time.

    I have had two steering racks (both warranty), both front wheel hubs/bearings/speed sensors (left one under warranty), rear wiper motor (out of pocket), cruise control (out of pocket), broken CHMSL resulting in water leak in rear compartment (out of pocket), sway bar links (three times; last time out of pocket), wears tires, pads, and rotors prematurely; driver's seat has multiple tears on the vinyl, not even on a seam; trans pressure control solenoid replaced under warranty due to harsh shifts when hot; horn quit working and was replaced under warranty; now, fuel gauge doesn't work and I'm told by the dealer (whom I like) that this is a $750 repair.

    All this in under five years' ownership from new. It was built in June '05 at Doraville.

    This is unacceptable stuff. I was told in the brochure I was buying a quality vehicle. I think no one would say this is normal stuff.
  • genmtrfangenmtrfan Member Posts: 78
    That's dissappointing. So far the only issues we've had out of pocket are a rear seat latch that broke and the sway bar links (both sides). I noticed that the new links I intalled were thicker, I wonder if you kept getting the orginal ones. We're on our first new set of rotors at 90k but I'll admit that they did tend to warp easy. We do have a small tear in the side of the driver's side seat that started after about 4 years. The fuel gage did do something weird last week. It got to about a 1/16th of a tank and wouldn't go lower. By the time I refueled I put 25 gallons in it. Literally running on fumes. I feel like it's good to go at the moment. Recently replaced one of the rear hatch shocks and aforementioned seat pulls, new battery, coolant flush, upgraded headlights, new pads and rotors, new tires. When this set of tires is gone, so is the van. We're leaving on vacation this weekend so hopefully it's good to go. I'm not happy that the back chevy emblem has delaminated from the inside, but probably wont fix it again. Front one is ok. No transmission issues yet and original steering rack. How did you know that yours was bad? Occasionally I hear a whirring sound when cutting in a parking lot, but steers fine.
  • joe1250joe1250 Member Posts: 1
    Dexron III was used accidentally instead of Dexron VI in a 2007 Uplander LT, 65000 miles on the odometer. Transmission races then slams into 1st gear intermittently. Not sure that it is related to the fluid issue. What are the chances of transmission damage?
  • rlmiller9rlmiller9 Member Posts: 48
    I am not an auto mechanic, but I will take any and all bets at even money.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    If I remember correctly, many Montana/Uplander vans use the 4T65E transmission. They are known for many weak design problems and problems from "over heating".

    If wondering, my local transmission specialists recommends the install of ATF aux transmission cooler - rated for attached 3,500 lbs trailer in all GM mini-vans. Especially if one lives in hilly &.or hot temp region (like I do). And if one does trailering (even light weight utility trailers), do install the ATF aux transmission cooler rated for attached 5,000 lbs trailer (even if only pulling a max of 3.500 lbs). This LPD (Low Pressure Drop) ATF aux cooler will keep the vehicle's ATF cooler - even if van is only used as typical "soccer parent" mini-van. If wondering, I installed ATF LPD Hayden brand aux cooler in my wife's GM mini-van. The van has been running great every since. For me, well worth installing the Hayden cooler @ http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Cod- e=1678&Category_Code=hayden-transaver-cooler&Product_Count=2

    Regarding your van's transmission shifting problem, may I suggest you read all info within: http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E_Transmission_Info.php

    If answer cannot be found within this URL, do contact [email protected] @ 260-437-8912. I know he can answer your question and if the transmission needs a re-build.

    Good luck!!!
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for showing us pictures of "2012 Buick Verano". For "a car", it looks ok. When my 2003 FWD RDV "SUV" needs to be replaced, I'll be focusing on the similar shape mini-SUV shape vehicle. For example: Santa Fe, Kia Kia Sorento, Chev Equinox or something similar "look & feel". My wife and I love the rear hatch, its smooth ride, its higher off the ground stance and many other design aspects of a mini-SUV vehicle. And, we'd be buying the model after its been out for a few years. From your opinion, what would replace the FWD RDV - assuming we'd need to replace our 7 year old vehicle tomorrow?

    thanks.
  • swathdiverswathdiver Member Posts: 27
    Your transmission's input clutch piston is going bad. Mine started acting up in the 60s and we had the transmission rebuilt under the extended warranty at 80k.

    Even with the HD cooling option and Dex6, heat is their worst enemy.
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Member Posts: 16,027
    My '05 used to, when pulling away from a stop, feel like somebody hit you from behind. Also, when it would get hot, it would slam into 2nd and 3rd gears. It was the pressure control solenoid. I complained respectfully to GM and they replaced it outside of warranty. Even if they didn't, that's a much-less expensive fix than rebuilding. A local trans guy quoted me around $450-500 before GM fixed it.
  • camydogcamydog Member Posts: 64
  • camydogcamydog Member Posts: 64
  • alastanalastan Member Posts: 11
    edited January 2011
    My 6yr/90,000 mile bumper-bumper extended warranty on my 05 Buick Terraza is nearly expired. I actually love the van, except for sliding door warning chime issues. Last year I had the door plungers and latches replaced under warranty in both sliding doors, but I've already had issues again. I'd like to be able to keep the car after warranty without having to worry about going to the dealer for sliding door repairs. I'd be happy to just manually open and close the sliding doors, but you can't get around the chime once it rears it's ugly head.

    I've heard the door chime comes through the front stereo speakers and am considering disconnecting the speakers so I won't hear the chime. Does anyone know what other warning signals I will be missing if I do this? Since the backup warning sensor is the same tone, I know I'll lose that. And, I think I'll have to cancel my Onstar subscription since I think that just goes through the front speakers.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    alastan,
    Is there a problem and thats why its making the noise? Or is this just the door ajar chime? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • alastanalastan Member Posts: 11
    I assume it's all related to the door issues over the years. Listed below is information from the invoices that I have.

    It's really frustrating that Buick has not provided a solution to the dealers to make their repair last. My preschool age daughter gets scared when she has to hear the door chimes.

    As I said before, my Buick is still under the GM Bumper to Bumper extended warranty I purchased for the van - until December 2011. Is there anything Buick can do for me to get my door issues resolved? I don't feel like I have been made whole since I paid $2,353.84 extra for an extended warranty and I know the sliding door issues will still be here after the warranty expires. It frightens my preschool age child to have to drvie around town hearing a warning chime. I know I can go back to the dealer for a repair, but I am not confident the repair will last.

    6/26/2007 Passenger sliding door would not close – chimed & reversed. Dealer adjusted sliding door cable.

    7/6/2007 Passenger sliding door does not close and reverses. Dealer indicated contacts were not aligned. R-R contacts to clean and resecure and also realign door.

    2/29/2008 Sliding door would not close under power – had to use close manually. Dealer adjusted front and rear of driver's side slider, cleaned contacts, adjusted cables.

    12/29/2009 Driver-side sliding door does not fully close. Chime sounds continuously when driving. Dealer re-programmed sliding door modules. Also, replaced pivot on driver-side sliding door at owner's expense due to corrosion.

    6/10/2010 Driver-side sliding door chimes when all doors are closed. Dealer indicated that they got chime to stop and door was working properly.

    6/16/2010 – 8/4/2010 Driver side sliding door does not close causing chime. Took to different dealer. After multiple returns to dealer, code was registered indicating driver's side sliding door lock actuator faulty. Replaced driver's side sliding door lock actuator. After driver's side door was repaired the passenger sliding door would not fully close. The door lock actuator on the passenger sliding door was also replaced and re-learned.

    10/20/2010 Passenger sliding door would not close. Dealer replaced door lock harness and contact.

    10/29/2010 Driver side sliding door chimed constantly with doors closed. Dealer ordered door lock harness and contact and replaced slider door wiring and plunger on 10/11/2010.

    A week after the 10/29/2010 repair, the passenger sliding door would not close under power and reversed and started chiming again. Since it's such a hassle getting the car to the dealer, we opted to stop using the passenger sliding door. I tried using the door today 2/5/2011 and when it closed, the door chimed constantly when I put the car into gear. It it took 3 times of opening and closing the door in order to get the chime to stop. The driver slide sliding door also had a couple of times today where it reversed upon closing, but I was able to get it to close after a couple of tries. So we are back to not using the passenger sliding door.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    alastan,

    Many thanks for posting a thread about GM mini-van power sliding door problems. Back in early 2009, I surfed the net for a new GM mini-van and stumbled across many threads about "bad power sliding doors". Its definitely a "bad pattern" across many different GM mini-van forums. When I bought our new 2009 Montana van, I purposely bought it "without" power sliding doors. And, I purposely bought it "without" electronic load levelling system either (but that's a topic for a different thread).

    Today, my family has a 2009 GM mini-van with "manual" sliding doors. They work and work great. Never had a problem with them. Although, I wished they locked open when van in one a hill - like the dodge mini-van doors do. With this in mind, I need to thank you and many others - for validating my choice in purposely picking manual sliding doors on my GM mini-van.

    With this in mind, would you convert your current "power sliding doors" mini-van to manual sliding door system? If so, will GM do this for you - for free? Sounds drastic but from 1st hand experience, the manual sliding doors work great. Not a single problem with them - on my van...

    Hope this helps - some how....

    .
  • alastanalastan Member Posts: 11
    Thanks Spike - Buick didn't produce any manual slider models, but it seems like it should be possible to copy what was done for Chevy and Pontiac's manual sliders. There are overhead switches that you can turn off the power doors in my van to manually open and close them, but the door sensors all remain active and don't deactivate the warning chime.

    Sounds like it might be a good option if possible, but don't know about what Buick would offer to do. Sounds like a good question to Christina of GM customer service with the "free" part of your suggestion being key to the proposal.
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    I too am happy that we bought our 2008 Uplander with manual sliding doors...and I too wish that they stayed open when you're facing downhill...

    That being said, our Venture sliding doors stayed open when facing downhill and they have the exact same mechanism soooo...I took the "stopper" apart and found that all I had to do was bend the stop spring a little bit and now ours stay open on hills. The stop spring was a little different shape on the Venture - it had a bigger hump in it to keep the door open. Once I bent it and put the hump in the spring I got our Uplander's doors to stay open too.

    I mentioned the doors to the dealer once and they told me that they're all like that, so I took matters into my own hands. It takes a while to get them right but once you go they're great!
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    edited February 2011
    Many thanks for describing how the factory "stop spring / stopper plate" (????) can be modified - to hold the door open while parked on a small incline. Excellent info-share. If wondering, the lack of proper "safety design" has hurt 2 of the 3 kids. Wife won't park our van facing down hill anymore because of this "lack of" safety issue. re: She doesn't want adults or kids in the rear seats to get hit with the manual doors either.

    Appreciate if you can take a digital picture of your van's modified manual sliding door stopper. Please post the picture on www.photobuck.com and link to this site, If I can see a "visual" of your van's modification, I will clone the fix on my wife's van. Thus, reducing the risk of hurting others with our van's door sliding shut (when parked on a small incline) as well. I tried to send you my email id (to obtain your future digital picture) but your profile shows your email id as private. Thus, hoping you can link to a future digital picture instead.

    As a side note... I wonder why GM removed this safety feature on the Uplander / Montana product line. If it worked on their previous Venture van and works on other mini-vans (like Dodge line), I wonder why they removed this safety feature from their newer mini-van line? Very strange...

    Many thanks for posting this tip (and future picture - to give us a visual). Great work!!! The less people (espeically our kids) exiting the rear seats who are getting accidentally hurt, the better.

    .
  • alastanalastan Member Posts: 11
    Christina,
    Your response sounded like GM Customer Service might be interested in helping with my problem, but I haven't heard anything after I answered your questions. I look forward to your response.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Hi there 442dude

    I looked at the manual sliding door on my wife's 09 Montana van. As you know, its connected to the van's chassis via 3 connect points. One at the top / front door, one in the middle / rear door and one at the bottom / front door. Just wondering where you modified your doors - to allow it to remain open on a slight incline. re: Top, bottom or rear of the door. Viewing a digital picture of your door's mod would be great as well. re: Visual picture to allow me to better understand how to modify my wife's manual sliding doors - to reduce the future risk of hurting my kids again.

    Many thanks.

    .
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hey Spike -

    Sorry for the late reply, been quite a week!

    Anyway....

    I'll post a picture later today of the door stop for you. In the meantime:

    The stop is located in the channel at the bottom of the door, towards the rear. I'll mark it on the picture and give you better details.

    442
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Member Posts: 55
    How about sharing with the rest of us?
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Hi there...

    Sorry to hear you had a "bad week" - last week. Hopefully, this week is going much better for you. When "up for some air", appreciate your future picture. I'm sure maddog appreciates your future diginal picture as well.

    thanks.
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    My apologies for taking so long...

    Here's the link to the pic: link title

    I noted where the spring is as well as the only bolt that holds the thing on. I couldn't take it apart for the pic so I'll do my best to explain the picture.

    The sliding door is completely open in the pic (open is to the left in this pic), you can see the roller to the left of the photo. The stop only has 1 bolt and is kind of a sandwich of parts. Open and close the door a couple of times and watch where the INSIDE roller contacts the spring on the INSIDE. What should happen is that when the inside roller reaches a certain point, it should roll over the hump in the spring and be caught between the end and the hump in the spring, keeping the door open unless you give it a good pull. Open and close it a few times and watch the spring...even when it doesn't work, you'll see the spring flex a bit as the inside roller goes past the hump.

    BTW - Don't go looking for a coil spring in there, you won't find one...its a "wave spring". Basically a piece of spring steel about 4 inches long and maybe 1/2" wide. The outside piece is NOT the spring, its in the middle of the sandwich.

    The problem is...the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!

    To do this you need to remove the stop. There's only 1 bolt holding it on. Look and the whole thing carefully before you take the bolt out as one you take it out, the whole thing will likely fall apart - if it doesn't, wiggle it a little bit. To remove it, close the door till the roller is out of the stop assembly and then remove the bolt. The assembly will come apart in 2 pieces: the piece in the photo and the spring behind it. Once you get the spring out, put just the spring in a vise and use pliers and increase the bend in the hump. (You may come up with a better way, that's just how I did it) Then you put it back together and you're done. Be patient, it may take you a couple of tries to get it just right and its a pain to get back in. That;s why its important to take a good look at it BEFORE you take it apart.

    I hope my explanation as well as the accompanying pic help it make sense. Remember...when you're putting it back together, make sure that you have the door 1/2 way closed, just like when you took it apart. Now that you know where the stop is and what it looks like, I think you'll be able to look at it and figure out how to fix it. Good luck - feel free to post questions. :shades:
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    edited February 2011
    Hi 442dude

    Many thanks for providing a picture and in text format, describing the process to appply this mod - to other 2007+ uplander / montana vans with manual sliding doors.

    Your statement of "the hump in the spring is too small to hold back the door. So your goal is to bend the spring to make the hump bigger!" is RIGHT ON.

    Tonight, I removed the protection cover plate and removed the spring (which is a flat small ruler shape piece of steel with a small hump in its middle). As instructed, I used my bench vice and hand held vice grips and created a larger hump (like 1/3 moon shape) in the spring. Re-installed both parts (spring and protection cover) and it works great. The larger hump holds the door open - when van is parked on a slight incline. WOW!!! Such a simple fix. Actually, it's such a simple fix, anyone with a 10mm or 3/8" box socket with 2" extension could implement themselves.

    Many, many thanks for advising how I can apply this mod - to our 2009 Montana's manual sliding doors. And my wife thanks you as well. As she loads / unloads our disabled child, she'll no longer get accidentally nailed by our van's manual sliding doors (that have very poor factory door stop settings).

    We owe both of you for this factory improvement mod...

    .
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    edited February 2011
    You're VERY Welcome...I'm so happy that I was able to help!!!

    All the best!
  • b1incontrolb1incontrol Member Posts: 1
    i bought my 05 relay used. it has had a vibration since i bought it almost 3 years ago. it vibrates the most between 45-65mph. it is also worse while accelerating than when coasting. I've had the brakes changed. I've had the tires changed twice. I've had both wheel bearings changed. I read on this forum a lot about rotars, I don't think those have been changed. One strange thing was noticed today while having the brake pads changed. There is a small screw in one of the 3 little holes on the front driver side rotar, but there is not one on the passenger side.
    Should that screw be there?
    Could the screw or the rotars be causing the vibration while driving?
    Has anyone else had this vibration that seems incurable?
    Please give me feedback.
  • duraflexduraflex Member Posts: 358
    I am not an expert but I have owned several cars over my lifetime. Rotors usually have to do with braking problems. They cause an uneveness in braking when you try to come to a stop. They can usually be shaved but sometimes they need to be replaced. An honest mechanic will tell you.

    In my experience, vibration at higher driving speeds has usually been from tires that are out of balance, especially on front wheel drive vehicles.

    Also, sometimes tires become scalloped (uneven tread wear around the circumference) from lack of proper rotation. The only fix for this is to replace the scalloped tires and then rotate as shown in your manual.
  • 442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    edited February 2011
    I've not experienced with the problem that you describe but...

    The screw that you refer to is not the source of your problem...you actually don't even have to replace it when you do the brake job. The lug nuts hold the rotor in place, the little screw is likely there to hold things together while it goes down the assembly line.

    Bad Rotors only typically cause vibration when you are braking. you don't mention mileage, but I'd be suspect that a strut was bad and your wheel is bouncing..
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    My previous van had a bad vibration when going above 75 kms (45 mph). Its tires were 5 years old and to my surprise, 3 of its tires has shifted belts. Thus, we replaced all 4 tires. Vibration instantly gone.

    As as suggestion, do get the tires inspected / re-balanced. If tires are ok, then get its brake rotors detailed inspected as well...

    Good luck...
  • lulu223lulu223 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if you can make the automatic door on 06 terreza manual AND have NO chime. Will removing the motor slove the problem?
  • 3278132781 Member Posts: 1
    Uplander runs negative camber and no tow-in meaning that the wheels are wider apart on the bottom than on the top. This causes strange tire wear on the inside of the tires. Remove the tires from the rims and put them on the other side of the van so the outside of the tire becomes the inside. I suspect that GM did this to make the van tires wider to help prevent rollover.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    edited August 2011
    Actually.... the tires (famous Firestone brand) tires were replaced because their inner belts shifted. One could feel the tire's surface with one's hand and feel its inner shifted belts. It was like feeling a bold head - after it got a bad goose egg accident. re: Lump, lump. We replaced all 4 tires and our Safari van ran as smooth as silk. Expecially on the smooth higway.

    .
  • meliflowermeliflower Member Posts: 1
    I have had recent problems with the door chimes going off on my van. It started on the passenger sliding door, the mechanic replaced the sensors on each inside door. Happened again the other day, he reset the computer and so far so good. He stated that the diagnostics that he runs does not pinpoint the exact problem so he is unsure how to proceed. Other than disabling the doors so that they will be totally manual, if this is a possibility, are there any other suggestions/solutions to this problem. I like the van and would perfer to have the electric doors but don't know what else to do about the chime issue. Thanks for the input
  • crzyldycrzyldy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Terraza and I have loved it - until the last year or so. The passenger sliding door never really worked that well and would sometimes not recognize the door was closed and locked and I would get the door chime problem. Then finally the cable for the sliding mechanism was hanging out of the door. When you pushed the button, you could hear the motor trying to work, but nothing really happened. So I took it in to the dealer and they replaced the whole motor (for about $700) - ouch.

    That was about 6 months ago. Then about 2 weeks ago the cable was hanging out again, but after hitting the door close button a few times it went back into the door. But this time when you push the button to open/close the door you just hear one small click sound and then nothing happens. So I have a manual door and I would actually be fine with that if it weren't for the infernal door chime. For a week or so after we saw the cable, I had the door closed and it was fine, we just used the driver side door. However this week, my daughter accidentally opened the bad door and now it is a constant ding, ding, ding....

    The door chime continues even after the engine is off and the key is removed from the ignition. It will stop if you open the bad door though. So at least I figured that out so it didn't drain my battery while I try to find a solution. Also of note, there is no message in the dash regarding the door being open, just the dinging of the chime.

    I took it to the dealer again and they charged me $100 just to tell me that it had a bad module that was going to cost another $500 to fix. I can't afford to keep throwing money at the car. I don't mind the manual door if I can just stop the door chime. I don't even mind losing the warning chimes for all the sensors if it will just SHUT UP. HELP!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    crzyldy,

    I would like to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance. In order to start the process I will need your complete contact information (including full name, mailing address and phone number), VIN, current mileage and the involved dealership sent to me in an email. Also, could you please provide a brief description of the problems you are experiencing as well as your screen name used on the forum?

    You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • amishka77amishka77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 and have had a similar problem. If we close the passenger side power sliding door with the manual option then it doesn't chime, but if we use the power door with the power option then it randomly chimes while I'm driving. We never know when it'll go off and so far with one exception we can park the van and manually open and close the door then the chimes stops. One occasion the chimes didn't stop even when I turned the van off and removed the key from the ignition. I took immediately to the dealer and they fixed for a little while but then it did it again bit turned off when we parked and manually opened and closed the door.

    I read somewhere that the pins may not be hitting the sensor in the middle and that could be causing the problem so you need to just move the pins down or the sensor up to fix it i look into that on Monday.

    Let me know if you've found any way to fix this issue, please. I have little kids and it's hard for them to shut the manual door so we really need the power door minus the infernal chiming.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    amishka77,

    Were you planning on taking the vehicle back to the dealership? Please keep me posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • elibomelibom Member Posts: 9
    The power doors can be repaired if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h,ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wire wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is a switch in the door at the rear door latch, it can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done.
  • elibomelibom Member Posts: 9
    edited September 2011
    The power doors can be repaired and the CHIME will stop, if you have someone that has electrical abilities. The springs in the door plungers will rust out and not make connection, the springs can be replaced with springs from a h,ware store. to completely fix the problem the plungers need to have small flexible wire wires soldered to the back end of them and to where they make the slide connection on the back of the plunger box, this is a lot easier than it sounds, an Elec-Tech should have no problem with it. I did the plungers on my 06 SV6 and have had no problems since 2008. There is a switch in the door at the rear door latch, it can be removed cleaned repacked with silicon grease and replaced this is not an easy job but can be done. I had to remove the door panel to get to this switch.
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