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Chevrolet Cobalt

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Comments

  • montecobaltfanmontecobaltfan Member Posts: 18
    amen and thank you, finally, someone with an answer..

    another thing i would like to know, the 145 HP on the cobalt ls coupe, is that a lot for that kinda car, i know the cobalt is light, and is weighed 50 50

    but like the civic is like 115 and the corolla is like 135, im just wondering, would u all stay with the LS and pay less or shoot for the SS and pay about 3 thousand more,do u think the LS is enough getty up or would u preper the SS rocket

    im not sure right now, but i think an LS with the sports package and sound would be cool,
    but on to one more thing if you got the LS coupe, would u get stick or automatic and why?
    ive never really had an stick, but i heard they are real fun, and u get better acceleration
  • lovetosavegaslovetosavegas Member Posts: 73
    I'd suggest you drive both LS and SS and decide if you like SS that much better. I would definitely get stick transmission. I know alot of people who learned to drive stick rather easy, without paying somebody to teach them. If you don't have kids and don't need to save $$$ for their education, go with standard SS. Employee pricing is probably tough to beet these days. Plus you'll probably get good experience buying it. I'd also recommend you test drive Mazda 3s for a comparison. The advantages of stick are fun to drive, better gas mileage and faster start due to lower first gear ratio and closer gear ratios. Personally I will not buy an automatic car for myself ever. Though if you are stuck in stop and go traffic often, you may want to consider AT.
  • montecobaltfanmontecobaltfan Member Posts: 18
    is the mazda 3 similar in performance, i looked at it, and to me it is heavier, and 4 door, im lookin for somen simple that can lock me in, and i just like the two door,

    however i have been lookin at these mazda'a and each tim ei see them i think man, they are cool, but i look at the back and it just doesnt do it for me, but i heard they were real fun to drive. i understand the SS is fast in zero to 60 and all but by buying an ls version, and driving it like a normal humin being, r u gonna miss out on a lot?
  • cobaltlscobaltls Member Posts: 5
    The LS is definatly better than the SS in my opinion. I just baught one last week. You pay around 5k more for the SS. You can get the LS and buy a aftermarket supercharger for 2-3k and have A LOT more hp and torque than the SS. Plus the SS comes with a 2.0L engine while the LS comes with a 2.2L. Once I get my supercharger on mine i'll be pushing around 250. While you get a STOCK SS and you get 205. Cost effective and better on the tracks.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I too prefer the 4-door after initially eyeing the coupe. I look at it this way, the 2-door maybe more sporty, but the 4-door is more roomy.

    The 2.2 L is slightly more powerful than its competition, especially the torque. The car has a respectable little over 16-second quarter mile time. An optional 2.4 L that powers the Malibu and HHR will be available after summer that puts out 170 hp. From what I understand, and actually heard last year, Chevrolet will have an optional, dealer installed, supercharger available for this engine.

    Additionally, the Chevy Cobalt is ripping up the competition on the drag racing circuit. They have set many speed records including top speed runs, and a blistering quarter mile of 6.9 seconds in pro-fuel. The pro-fuel Cobalts use the same engine block from what I have read, but the Ecotech block is modified with different cylinder sleeves because of the extreme heat, horse power used at this level of competition.

    I like a manual shift in a small car for slightly better mileage, performance, and having more control of the car. The 4-speed auto which has been around for many years, has been noted as bullet-proof, and is very smooth; best for city driving.
  • montecobaltfanmontecobaltfan Member Posts: 18
    wouldnt u just crush the srt-4 with a 2.2, and 255 hp,

    i think that is what i am going to do, i think i came to a conclusion the cobalt supercharge is gonna kinda be a waste, i like the sport cloth seats anyway.

    but the only pickle i am in now, is the performance coupe comming whenever the hell it is supposed to come out. if i added a supercharge to 170 it prob make more than 255, but then u have to think, when is enough enough, it is my belief that a front wheel small car can become overwhellmed with too much, after all, the fwd has enough to do on its own. i dont want like understeer or nothin to be a constant pain in the [non-permissible content removed].

    also, u wont get the cool SS thing on your car :cry: but F it, mabye with the ls it might shock people on the road, another dissapointment is the 16 inchers, which is plenty big enough but the 18 rims look sooo cool. tires and rims arent cheap,

    i like the LS idea but here are some things i am thinking
    will wheels handle the high horse

    where the heck do u get a supercharger, do you have to buy it from a mag or site, and have a shop install it, or does the shop have it,

    here is the big thing, my friend just got a mits lancer evo, yes it is sick, but im a chevy guy, i cant go forighn and buy an sti or anything, i want to build somen up to compete with it, he put in some stuff, his evo is 390HP, but im not sure of the weight, i dont want to race him, i just want to be able to shut him up when i talk about my car competin with his.

    so the ls is prob the way to go, theres more than just a Supercharge, i can do, cant i mess with the air filters too?
    just someone come out and make a decision for me, after all the chevy deal thing last till aug 1st? should i wait for the SS coupe or buy quickly on the rally yellow LS im peakin at the the dealer, o the decisions, ahhhhhhhhhh

    just some1 make one for me
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    If you want a real reliable car for everyday driving I would stick with a stock LS. A modified car requires more maintenance, is generally not as reliable, and costs more to maintain.

    I can't tell you what brand supercharger fits on a Cobalt. You may want to go on a search engine and type superchargers to see what companies come up.

    I don't believe the supercharger option from Chevy is going to be a hugh boost in horse power. As mentioned in a previous post, there is a Cobalt accessories catalog available from GM. It costs over $20, and contains just about every part you can think of-pistons, rings, different cam shafts, headers, etc.

    A speed shop can install an aftermarket supercharger, but I doubt if there is much or a guarantee, if any.
  • cobaltlscobaltls Member Posts: 5
    cobaltfan, I have a 2door cobalt LS coupe, and I dyno'd it the other day just for chuckles. It says it has stock 145hp. But when i dyno'd it, it was at 160. So adding a supercharger will put it up to 260-265 with around 270 lb of torque. The evo's are nice, but your friend should put a bigger turbo in it than the stock one. If he upgraded the turbo he would get around 420+ hp easy. But back to topic, I'll tell you what i'm gonna put on my cobalt LS.

    Vortech Supercharger V-5
    intercooler (eventually)
    17" Arceo Suzuka Star Black Rims
    Injen Cold intake
    Carbon Fiber Hood
    Erebuni Hood scoop

    That's just me though, I'll probably have some more ideas to add, but not until later on. I'm going for the Red and Black look on my car. I think it'll look good. ;)
  • frustrated8frustrated8 Member Posts: 20
    Well, now I have 3700 miles and just got it out of the shop for the 6th time! The flooding was caused by the evaporator pan. Seems that it split at the seam so they had to re-seal. The radio still locking up so they replaced - again! The dealer claims that it is a country wide problem but I haven't seen anybody posting problem except me. The passenger side was leaking again. But the service guy wrote it up as the driver side leaking and they found a problem that I wasn't aware of, yet! They had to re-seal the ditch roof molding.

    If they had kept it just one more day I would have been able to start the lemon law process but I'm sure something else will go wrong soon enough. I just want to be rid of this car!!! Has anyone out there ever lemon lawed a car before? What was your experience like? I live in Florida. I know each state has their own laws. I don't want to have to get an atty and can't even find one in my area that specializes in the Lemon Law. Any suggestions?
  • cobaltlscobaltls Member Posts: 5
    Dang frustrated, that doesn't sound too good. :-\ I haven't had a single problem with my cobalt. I'm at 1100 miles and I haven't had a problem yet **knock on wood** I'm not sure about the Lemon Law, haven't really even heard that term before. Explain if you don't mind.
  • nortsr1nortsr1 Member Posts: 1,060
    When you purchased the Cobalt, you should have received a LemonLaw brochure with you papers that you received in the Finance room.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    The lemen law here in Illinois is that the car has to go back for the same problem 5 times during the first year of ownership, or be in the shop for 30 consecutive days.
  • frustrated8frustrated8 Member Posts: 20
    With the lemon law in Florida your car has to have the same problem three times or be in the shop 15 cumulative days. If the dealer hasn't fixed the problem you have to file a form w/the manufacturer and they have one shot at fixing the problem or problems. Then they either give you your money back or give you another car. At this point I don't want another Chevy! I want my money back so I can buy a Toyota, which is what I was planning on buying in the first place. But got talked into a Chevy by a friend of a friend who is the GM of the dealership where I purchased my car. He gave me a really great price or so it seemed at the time. I paid cash for the car but it has cost me approx $200.00 additional dollars because every time its in the shop I have to pay for extra insurance on the "loaner" car. But, I'm starting to rant. I'm just so sick of all the problems and having to deal w/the dealership who continues to lie to me about what they have done to the car when all I have to do is read the invoice and see what they have done. Its very insulting to have them lie to my face like I'm too stupid the read the invoice! Then he told me that they upgraded my radio to a better one. I get in the car and its exactly like the original one. What moron wouldn't notice that! Oops...I'm ranting again.

    I happy for all of you that got a good car and I hope that y'all continue to enjoy it. Hopefully some day soon I will have my toyota. :lemon:
  • mk39mk39 Member Posts: 18
    looking for an inexpensive safe car for the kids, looks like the cobalt fits the bill, although frustrated8's post may make me rethink that. interested in base sedan, manual transmission, with anti lock brakes, dual side air bags and cruise.

    1) can you still order a 2005 model? It will be hard to find this vehicle on a lot.

    2) is the gm discount price the lowest price you can get? Has any one negotiated lower?

    3) having made the mistake of getting a gm credti card, I can use $1000 credit toward purchase of a cobalt. the card I have actually has accumulated over $2000, however I am only allowed to use $1000 on the cobalt - is there any negotiating room here or is the $1000 written in stone?

    thanks for any help/advice.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    The $1000 limitation on the newer GM cards to be used towards the purchase of a Cobalt is written in stone...that I can attest to for sure...You can get $2000 if you purchase TWO Cobalts, though! :)

    The maximum is adjusted from time to time, reflecting sales and the market's moods...
  • cobaltlscobaltls Member Posts: 5
    If you buy the cobalt with the GM employee discount, there are no negotiation. I got my 2door Cobalt LS coupe with a sunroof and spoiler for 16,300. I put 2k down and I have a 320 a month payment. In my opinion I think I got a damn good deal for it.
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Member Posts: 23
    I just bought a 2005 Cobalt with NO options for $8999. That was 1300 UNDER employee pricing....I found many different prices in my search. YOU CAN NEGOTIATE with Chevy dealers during this promotion just like always. SOme may say that they will not go under employee price but others will. I found 3 other dealers willing to cut employee prices lower to get the sale. Good luck
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Member Posts: 23
    The GM master card rebate is a GREAT program and the money you save is REAL. You don't need to even tell the dealer you have it to the very end of the negotiation and he will be fine with taking your rebate off the bottom line. The dealer will get their money from GM. The limits per each car are limits of the program and the dealer has NO say in increasing that amount. It is not even worth trying because they will not be paid more than the $1000 for listed cars. Over the years I have saved over $11,000 thanks to this GM program and just am happy to be a part of this great deal.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    What's with the rental insurance, I have never heard of such a thing from a new car dealership. Except for AVIS and other rental car companies, there should be no additonal insurance, and even those are sometime negotiatable.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Always have to find a dealer that is desperate for sales. That's what I did with my Montana. Another dealer in the next town over refused to match it saying they were making no money at the price I got. You know you have a good deal when this is the case!
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I just posted the following on the Cavalier forum. Does the Cobalt Owner's Manual for the 2.2L engine have the same error?

    "The Owner's Manual for my 2005 Cavalier, with 2.2L (Vin Code F) Ecotec engine, says the oil capacity is 4.0 quarts, including filter. My previous five Cavaliers, with the cast iron engine, always had that same capacity.

    Boy, did I get a surprise! When I did my first oil change, the one-gallon catch container I have always used before severely overflowed (luckily I had newspapers and a plastic sheet underneath the container).

    I forgot to exactly measure what it took to refill my engine, but I would guess it must have been close to 5.0 quarts. How in the world can GM screw-up the Owner's Manual in this way (this is not a newly-introduced engine)? Has anyone here measured the exact refill quantity required for the 2.2L engine?"
  • frustrated8frustrated8 Member Posts: 20
    I paid cash for my car so I only have the minimum insurance that the state requires. The dealership rents me a "loaner" car through Enterprise so I have to get full coverage.

    The good news is that I have had my car out of the shop for three full days and nothing has gone wrong, yet. That is a record!!

    I'll keep y'all posted
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    The wisdom, or lack thereof, of only carrying the state minimum insurance is for another place and time, but I urge you to rethink that....
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Fantastic deal - congratulations! Do you have a GM card? Coupe or Sedan?
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Member Posts: 23
    The car I bought was the Sedan and I do have the GM master card so as to get the rebate money that goes along with using the card. BTW the coupe and Sedan are exactly the same MSRP and I could have had my choice for the same price.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Is it the new or old card? How much GM Card money did you get to use?
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Member Posts: 23
    I used the "new" card and got $1000 off the $8999 price. The dealer did not mind at all giving me full credit for the $1000 since he gets that money back from GM mastercard anyway. After my rebate I paid $7999 plus TT&L. Not bad for a car with 47 miles that is as nice as the Cobalt is.
    The "old" card allows yo to accumulate up to $500 per year for 7 years and use all the money on any eligible car. The "new" card allows you to accumulate any amount per year on the card but has limits of $1000-$3000 depending on the car you buy. The limit on the Cobalt is $1000. Most limits are in the 1000-2000 range.
  • red2003xltred2003xlt Member Posts: 4
    frustrated,

    I read your problem. Go find another dealer. Everything you've described make me think: Electrical, I'll bet a bad ground stemming from water getting inside your vehicle.
  • frustrated8frustrated8 Member Posts: 20
    After carefully reviewing all my invoices, turns out that last Friday was only the 14th day in the shop. But, yesterday, my radio had an error message-again! And my brake light keeps coming on while I'm driving down the road. I told the guy at the dealership that I didn't think it was the radio but something leading into the radio. Such as an electrical problem. He just said that that couldn't be the problem. After all, I'm just a woman. What could I possibly know. So, tomorrow, with 3800 miles I will take the car in for the seventh time.

    At least this time when the radio had the error message the dealership was open and I drove it straight over there and showed him the message. I don't think he believed me before that. It always happened in the evenings or weekends when the "service dept" was closed.

    The other closest dealership is 25 miles away so not real convenient. But they do have a much better reputation. It might be worth the hassle. But after tomorrow when they don't fix my problem I can start the Lemon Law process.

    If it wasn't such a pain in the butt, it would ALMOST be comical. But right now it hurts too much to laugh.

    Thanks for your input. I'll keep y'all posted. :lemon:
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Member Posts: 28
    Glad that Edmunds exists...I bought my Cobalt LS coupe one month and 2 days ago and today, after putting a bag of clothes on the floor in the front of my car, passenger side, realized that the floorboard and floor mat were soaked. The driver's side and rear of the car were dry. I went to the carwash and vacuumed the floor out, and noticed that the water or whatever it is radiated in from the door area...most of the water was on the edges of the floorbored - the middle was pretty much dry. Glad to hear i'm not the only one, but very mad because the whole purpose of trading my '01 Grand Am in was to not have to deal with car trouble the rest of the time I'm in college... :confuse:
  • montecobaltfanmontecobaltfan Member Posts: 18
    soup up their car, if you have, can u reply and let me know how it is working out for you, also, can u be specific on what u added or are going to add and where you got it from.

    and what was ur model of cobalt b4 upgrading
  • montecobaltfanmontecobaltfan Member Posts: 18
    what do u all think of mazda's, i like the mazda 3 kinda looks puny from the back, but the mazda 6 looks off the charts all the way around, the 6 looks like it would be fun to have
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    1. American cars have vastly improved in quality since 1991.

    2. American dealer service is pretty good, based on my experience.

    3. Every new car has some bugs, so the water leak is more likely something that got through, and not an indicator the whole car is bad.

    I had one of the early Ford Focus models, a ZX3, and although it had some problems it wasn't bad, in hindsight, but I did panic and sell it early. I have another one today, and it is problem free so far - fewer initial defects than a post 2000 Civic and Scion I had in the interim.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I have always heard that one should avoid the first year of production. Hopefully your dealer can remedy this problem once and for all.
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Member Posts: 28
    Update on my car...the hose or whatever it is that drains the moonroof was disconnected, so the rain water drained right into my car...makes sense...but thank goodness it hasn't been raining much here in Michigan! I hope that this isn't going to be an ongoing issue in the future - I've got a 4 year lease - I know that buying a new model car in its first year isn't always the best idea (which is part of why I decided to avoid the G6 on top of just not liking it after I drove it), but they weren't getting Impala's and Grand Prix's down to where I wanted to be, and I actually really liked the Cobalt, even after having a Grand Am.
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Member Posts: 28
    I also want to add that if anyone is in the Lansing area car shopping, I highly recommend Annie Rae in DeWitt. I bought my Grand Am used from them, and now this Cobalt. I had the best experience both times with them...after going to many different dealerships around Michigan. I plan to go back to get my next vehicle from them no matter where I live in the country - and I am serious. After spending 3 hours with each dealership I went to, I spent one hour at Annie Rae, which included the test drive and getting the payment I wanted. Now, when I had to take my car in for service one month after purchase, they didn't hesitate to send me home with a loner (and I live at school almost 90 miles from them), just so that I didn't have to sit around waiting for them all day.
  • lovetosavegaslovetosavegas Member Posts: 73
    Did you negotiate below employee price for everyone? Or maybe the other dealers wanted more money then employee price?
  • samnassamnas Member Posts: 5
    Hi. I'm thinking of buying the Cobalt, is the water leak a problem with all of them or was it something specific to your car and it was fixed? Any reason why I shouldn't buy this, what are the CONS for Cobalt?

    Normally I would buy the Honda Civic, however there are tons of them everywhere so that's a turn off. If the Cobalt is also great, I would buy it. But I really need to know that it's a reliable car and that it doesn't have any major cons. Is the water leak to the inside of the car in defect in all of them? what other cons can you see to the car?

    Also, when will the Cobalt 2006 be released, should I wait for it, have they said what exactly they have improved?

    Thanks!!!
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Water leak is not common but has hit a couple of people here on this thread. Cobalt is a good car, drive train is proven tech. and the car is well put together.

    I hear employee pricing ends Aug 1 for good so you might want to get an 05 before that happens. The 06 won't see much if any change.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    The Cobalt is considered by to be one of the best in this segment. Motor Trend reported in July (information supplied by Intelichoice) that the Cobalt has better perceived resale than the Toyota Corolla, and also edges the Corolla, though barely, in mpg.

    Magazines have frequently put it in the top 3 in overall quality, driving experience. The Cobalt SS also edged out the Neon version in a close comparison.
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Better resale on a Cobalt than a Corolla? What are they smokin' ? Better gas mileage? Doubt that too. New Civic coming out for 2006. I bet that will be the hottest seller in this segment. I bought a PT Crusier. Most smaller cars, other than the Mini Cooper, all sort of look the same and are rather boring. Same ol' - same o! At least Chrysler has some NEW cars. As for cars with water leaks, that reminds me of my '92 Achieva. Ah the good ol' days have returned. On the whole, the Cobalt is a better car than the one before it. Is it better than the competition? Well the engine is larger than a Corolla or Civic. My guess is that the new Japan cars will gain in HP if not this year, by next years '07 models. If you are talking functional car, in the $12K to $15 range, Cobalt will do the trick, and with a bit more HP. Better resale and reliability --- that's one big question mark! Exciting or unique looks? I don't get it. They had too long to come up with something new, yet it is the copy of a Civic. You lead, follow or get out of the way, as Lee said. What are they doing in this case?

    Loren
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I don't think the Corolla has much to worry about in the resale dept. but the Cobalt is a better car in many ways. It is certainly no copy of the Civic, not sure where you get that. Doesn't look like one inside or out in any way.

    You can always say, "ya but company X has this coming next year or the year after... " but we are talking about now. Fact is, the Cobalt is a very competitive entry with more power and available power than most of the competition.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Why is it so hard to believe. GM cars/trucks have comparable resale value to other auto makers. In the reference to the Corolla, these were figures taken by professionals in the industry, not some dumb kid who has a closed mind and prefers to support a car from another country, even though its basically the same as what is offered here, over all. Check out the July MotorTrend to see for yourself.

    The Audi A4 1.8T lost the most value of the 6 listed in the evaluation.

    The PT Cruiser is my crude vehicle with a truck like ride and disappointing mileage. You had to have got a great deal on that one because not too many people are buying it after the initial rush.

    Who doesn't have new cars?
  • exalteddragon1exalteddragon1 Member Posts: 729
    A friend of mine bought a cobalt, and has a problem with his wiper blades. In the rain, they seem to dump water toward the driver side, insdea of away from the driver, and it dangerous because for a split second, you cannot see whats going on outside in the rain.

    Is there a TSB for it?

    Anyone here know what i am talking about?
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    The PT is still selling well, and not as a rental car, after all these years with the same design. If anything is crude, it has to be the cheapo interior on the Cobalts. So far gas mileage has ranged from 20 to 29.6 MPG, which considering it is a 3100# vehicle, and more upright than an econo car design, is not too bad. It does not look like every other car like the Cobalt does. Chrysler actually built a NEW car. GM re-invented the Civic, sort of like Al Gore inventing the Internet. In five to ten years time, I bet the Cobalt will not look to be in as good a shape as a ten year old Civic, with a resale much-much lower. Go out and start shopping around for a used Chevy, and you will find a lot of bargains well below the Kelly Blue Book. GM had some great looking cars in the late 60's. They have a few sort of new, as in fresher looking models out now, but nothing too exciting. The G6 Coupe, when it finally arrives, may have some appeal. For the most part, the GM line looks kinda liked warmed over previous dishes. They need to serve up something new. I must say the CTS did have shock appeal with the chisel look. We are talking big money though. And you pay $30K for a CTS and do even get telescopic steering column. Oh well, if you are happy with same ol' stuff, that's fine. I would think GM could do better.

    Loren
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Not to make this a personal attack, but GM has been the leader for almost a century in almost every way. I can't think of a decade that they didn't have something special.

    The CTS is an excellent car in it's catagory. Any car over $30,000 is big money and the CTS fits in well with the over-priced Lexus and BMW's, etc.

    Of the over 10 article/tests I have read on the Cobalt, only one writer that I recall mentioned the word cheap. What's cheap about it? It's excellent inside and out. Plastic is plastic and is way over-rated.

    I have seen Kelly Blue Books prices on comparable vehicles 10-years-later and they are virtually the same including my over-10-year S10 pick-up. Pretty rusty, but is a great runner. Here in Illinois it's somewhat uncommon to see a 1980's Japanese car, where there are many Buicks and Chevrolets around.

    I have worked for 6 auto dealers-2-Nissan, 1-Toyota, 1-Mazda, and 2-Chevy dealers, and personally I was not impressed with the Japanese cars. The American cars are so much more solid, though they lack the fit and finish at that time back in the late 1980's. Reliability is really no different in most automobiles. If you don't maintain, they don't last. I know of a lot more people who have had a problem with their import car than a U.S. car, with maybe the exception of Chrysler. Toyota's are mostly known for reliability because of clever marketing strategy started back in the 1980's. Ford had to drop the quality thing because it actually turned out they were not. It's all in marketing, and sometimes deception or perception that gives a car its label.

    That is pretty descent mileage out of the Cruiser. Every evaluation I have heard or read about this vehicle gave it low marks in the mileage, some in the low 20's mpg on the highway. I wonder how the HHR will do against it? I was real skeptical about the HHR when I first saw it. It is a PT look-a-like in my opinion, and with the PT sales lower (though still around 100,000), how does Chevy hope to get it's 100,000 sales, I doubt it. Its supposed to be a heritage-high-roof vehicle, but I don't know if it resembles the 1940's Suburban that much. It has some innovative features with nice option packages, but then again it's another truck. The speculated 30 mpg highway sounds pretty good if it can do it.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Don't worry about m1miata too much. A Cobalt will hold up just as well as a Civic. It's well made and has a rock solid drive train. Even old Cavaliers which are not nearly as well made hold up better than average over time. You can't compare resale of the Cavalier with the Cobalt because the Cobalt is so much better and more competitive. Cavalier has poor resale because it was a 10++ year old design that no one wanted anymore. While I agree with m1miata the Civic/Corolla will have better resale, I think the difference will be much smaller than with Cavalier. Time will tell, too soon to say for sure.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Resale value is calulated based on the MSRP of a vehicle. Thus the apparently bad resale values of American cars don't look so bad when you consider the real selling price. As a real world example, I got offered peanuts for my PT Cruiser and a lot for my Scion xA when I traded them both in at the same time. In reality, I bought the PT Cruiser for peanuts and paid list price for the Scion xA, so the spread between trade in value and actual price paid wasn't so bad. True, the xA held a slightly better percentage, but not by a lot.

    However, pity the poor sucker who pays list for an American car - you need to get hefty rebates and discounts to make an American car competitive.

    The truth is, American cars are cheaper than imports (after rebates and discounts) but the American manufacturers don't want to admit their cars are perceived as being worth less, and the Japanese don't want to look like their cars are premium priced.

    Such a difference from the '60's when Japanese cars were cheap and American cars were expensive.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I never worry much about resale. I got about 50% re-sale on our Alero when we sold it after 3 years but we also got so many discounts that it was closer to 60-63% of price paid.

    Resale is a distorted number these days but people still always refer to it.
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Starting to see some Cobalt coupes around San Francisco--most are rental cars (bar code on rear side window is the tip-off).

    It's too bad that an all-new design looks so much like every relatively inexpensive coupe from almost every brand offering coupes built during the last decade.

    There is nothing original about the Cobalt coupe's design and there seems to be no compelling reason to buy one on the basis of style. Don't all coupes need style to compensate for their lack of practicality?

    Just my observation after seeing a couple of Cobalt coupes yesterday--I almost didn't notice them at all.
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