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Chevrolet Cobalt

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Comments

  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    You are living in the 1960's. I have never seen a GM car that couldn't make past 100,000, or 200,000 miles for that matter. The same misinformed information can be put on a Japanese car. I have seen and known of people who's Japanese car that was done at or about 100,000 miles. It is all about how you maintain a car. 200,000 can probably even be had by a Yugo or Hyundai if it is maintained.

    Reliability, or the perception of reliability has little or nothing to do with engine reliability statistics. When a car gets a bad rap for reliability it is mostly about small things such as cruise controls, radios, power windows, etc.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    I've been satisfied with GM products all my life.
    (1977 chevelle malibu=97K) (1984 chevrolet blazer s-10= 102k) (1992 safari=28k ride off) (1994 blazer s-10 65=k) (1999 venture=75k) and now I drive a 2005 Equinox since may 2005 with 13k on it. All these vehicles were great.
    And my next could be a Chevrolet Cobalt SS Coupe.
    I'm not interested by bying a foreign car and putting a North American citizen on unemployment insurance.

    Let's return slowly to a Cobalt forum here.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,783
    My last GM car (the one that drove me away) was an 89 Camaro. Despite being well maintained and reasonably driven, that car was so unreliable by 50k that it could not have possibly made it to 100. Before I sold that car in 1995, it left me stranded twice. That's never happened to me since then.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    You're absolutly right. When I bought my 77 Chevelle Malibu
    I was stuck between 2 choices of cars, the Chevelle or the camaro (or Firebird). I always had questions on the quality and realibility of the camaro/firebird. I'm sorry to say but by my point of vue G.M. made two flops in it's history, the camaro/firebird and the chevette/acadian.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Our families 1976 Chevette, which we inherited from my grandmother in California after she passed away, lasted 18 years and was still running when my sister/husband get rid of it because of its body condition (accident) and loss of power. I used it for a couple of years as my winter car (1976 Grand Prix stored in the garage) and it was very reliable with only the one barrel carborator having to be replaced. Mileage was about 30 mpg on the highway with a stupid automatic, AM radio, and no air conditoning. 1976 was the first year and supposedly the most problematic, go figure.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Consider yourself as a very lucky chevette owner.
  • sgtbobsgtbob Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2006 LTZ, 2.2 auto...Have any of you noticed high coolant temps? I have seen mine go up to between 212 to 219 degrees and I think it kind of high!! I know that the coolant is flowing because the outlet hose gets hot after awhile. Also the temp. hits 130 degrees in about 3 to 4 minutes of idleing. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Also...I do not see a thermostat housing!! Does the Cobalt have a thermostat??
    I'd appreciate any input here. Thanks!!
    PS. I am NOT "sgtbob"!! I don't know why that name is there!!
  • nortsr1nortsr1 Posts: 1,060
    Let's get back to discussing the COBALT!!!!!
  • sgtbobsgtbob Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2006 LTZ, 2.2 auto...Have any of you noticed high coolant temps? I have seen mine go up to between 212 to 219 degrees and I think it kind of high!! I know that the coolant is flowing because the outlet hose gets hot after awhile. Also the temp. hits 130 degrees in about 3 to 4 minutes of idleing. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Also...I do not see a thermostat housing!! Does the Cobalt have a thermostat??
    I'd appreciate any input here. Thanks!!
    PS. From: Airmn65 NOT sgtbob!! Wrong name posted!!??
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Posts: 28
    I don't know if you've gotten a response, but with the ignition - it's a bad sensor in the shifter (mine was in twice before they figured it out) and for the brake light - there's a bulletin out on it. Hope this stuff is fixed...CALL GM AND GET A CASE FILE GOING! They won't do anything for you if you don't get on em.
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Posts: 28
    Not sure if people have responed to you in this manner, but you are VERY wrong regarding the ignition. I would turn my steering wheel, restart and move my car and put it back in park and it STILL would not come out. The issue is a sensor in the shifter...so please, do not talk to people like they're idiots...the car SUCKS.
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Posts: 28
    Yeah...I took my car in with the ignition issue with a can of pop in the holder...I have NEVER EVER spilled any liquid in that car...issue, as I've stated before, is a sensor in the shifter.
  • gvsunursegvsunurse Posts: 28
    Might I add that when they changed the solenoid in my car, it fixed the issue for ohhhhh one day...they found out the next day that it was an issue with the sensor in the shifter.
  • thats weird...

    Well, at least most of the problems are in one part of the car, if GM either revises or replaces the engine that should fix things. If things like the seat were not tightenned properly thats b/c its union work.

    Sorry but if you come into work knowing your not going to be fired no matter what you will slack off, sooner or later.

    Man I wish either GM or Ford wrestled off the union. Then the Japanese, in fact the world, would respect and aspire to American cars again.

    In order for that to happen, the workers need to know that GM will reward them, not screw them for leaving the union. This distrust between managment and worker has been the dounfall of many US companies.
  • randydriverrandydriver Posts: 262
    yes it is a sad state.
  • I'm sorry if I through anyone off track, but I'm havign problems with my brand new (05) cobalt and I'd like to know if i'm the only one. I bought my 05 cobalt new, with 100 miles, in September. Since then, the indicator lights on my dash for my high beams and my emergency brake keep flashing on and off. (It will only come on for a brief moment, then go away. Happens about 2x/mth). Now my CD player has twice told me 'ERROR' when I had a CD in it, however the problem would go away when i turned off my car. I just ditched a POS dodge for stupid electrical issues, i'm worried i'm lookin forward to more stress ~ ANY insight *even a 'no, no problems here', would be GREAT, thanks.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Is there a difference in the ground clearance between a Cobalt coupe LS, LT or SS (not supercharged). I live where we have to deal with a couple of severe snow storms every year and I wonder. The higher the better.
  • wallstfunwallstfun Posts: 12
    Your best bet is the LT. It has no ground effects added as the ss has and has 16 inch wheels compared to the 15's on the LS. The SS does has ground effects lowering the clearance.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I believe it is lower to the ground because of the suspension as well.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    I was wondering, in these 3 styles what's the best seller or the best choise? Cobalt coupe LT, Cobalt coupe LT with the "sport package" option or the Cobalt coupe SS (Not Supercharged)?
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I am pretty sure the base LT is the best selling one based on the lower price. I personally prefer the LT with sport package but in the sedan model without the spoiler. The SS would be nice, but I like the smoother ride of the LT, and the LTZ is too flashy for me with the extra chrome.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    I think a "stripped" Cobalt SS (not supercharged), in Coupe or Sedan, is a "best buy." All your extra money goes into real performance parts that would cost far more than the increase in MSRP to add yourself. The other models are mostly flash. You CAN search for and find lightly optioned SS models, which are the same price, or cheaper, than heavily optioned LT's.
  • wallstfunwallstfun Posts: 12
    I just happen to have heard this from the last visit to my dealer. I was talking with my salesman while waiting for work to be completed. The LS sedan out sells all the other cobalts combined. It's a money thing most are sold for under 15,000 and are bought as disposable transportation. The LT is next with the Supercharged SS next followed by the 2.4 SS last.
    Just for the record I bought my LT with leather and the sport appearance package for 17,400 when the red tag sale was active last fall.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,030
    A P&S topic for the Cobalt has been created. A few posts from here have been moved there. Please go to Cobalt: Problems & Solutions to continue discussing problem issues.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,030
    A national finance magazine is looking to interview consumers who are looking to purchase a or have already purchased the new subcompact cars because of the high cost of fuel. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Saturday, June 10, 2006 by 5:00 PM PT/8:00 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and the vehicle you are considering.

    ---------------

    A national finance magazine is looking to interview consumers who have traded-in their larger SUV for a smaller vehicle, because of the high cost of gas. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Saturday, June 10, 2006 by 5:00 PM PT/8:00 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and car you traded-in and the current car you own.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • see GM's new 2.0L S/C 260hp engine in the Cobalt SS. If GM really wants to hit the nail on the head they could scrap the 2.0, and fit all solstice/Sky and hopefully Cobalt SS models with a VVT DI S/C 2.4L Ecotec, that would be enough to push it to about 300hp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Now, Dodge has 300hp on the caliber, but the difference is the Cobalt handles better, from all that i have read, so the only current shortfall is the weaker engine in the Cobalt SS.

    Why did GM work on a 2.0L when they already have a VVT 2.4? Meybe while they are working on it they can fix some of the bugs in the engine?

    I'd Love a 300hp Cobalt, who thinks it would draw more sales?
  • gerald41gerald41 Posts: 37
    I don't think it would help at all. The SS accounts for less than 20% of all Cobalts sold. I read the same thing someone posted on these boards that the majority of cobalts sold are bare bone LS's. These are like the Cavaliers were . They had the Z-24 package and very few sold on a percentage basis. The cobalt is disposable transportation. To quote a person who I met at the dealership one day is "if it outlasts the loan payments I'll be happy".

    You can buy a cobalt out the door for under 15,000. Don't expect alot from a new car that cheap.
  • kato1kato1 Posts: 64
    "The cobalt is disposable transportation. To quote a person who I met at the dealership one day is "if it outlasts the loan payments I'll be happy".

    You can buy a cobalt out the door for under 15,000. Don't expect alot from a new car that cheap. "

    these are ridiculous statements. im not a fan of domestics, but they have improved enough that anyone who takes proper care of a chevy cobalt should have a car that far outlasts the term of a loan. payments would last 5-6 years tops. heck, i see enough 10 year old cavaliers on the road. granted, i dont know what their owners are paying out to keep their cars on the road.

    if one spends 5 yrs paying off a $15k car, plus interest, the only way to really get your moneys worth is to drive in for many years after it is paid off. these cars are not yugos or the old pontiac le mans or even the former cavalier for that matter. 10-15 year ownership should be very realistic.
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Better yet, pay cash and never-never buy a car on time payments. Save and buy what you can afford. If you can not buy a Cobalt new for $12k to $15K, then wait a year or two and buy one for $7K to $10K. You may get more goodies on it too. Should be a car that will last a good 10 years. That said, it could have a warranty for 10 years too; if it was a Hyundai, it would. I would think the Cobalt may outlast some other cars with expensive gizmos, and the parts when needed will cost less than German car replacement parts. You could keep it 20 years, if you are not easily bored. Most people just want something else in a few years, and sell before a car is really totally used up.

    JD Power Initial Quality Survey 2006 is out now.

    -Loren
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,783
    I spoke to my mechanic recently on this matter and he agreed that anyone can get a lemon, but if you take that out of the picture, you should be able to get 8 to 10 years out of most anything provided that it is driven reasonably and maintained.,

    I think that the issue w a Cobalt (and many other GM cars) is that while the engine and tranny are holding up, how many other parts will go bad? My father has an 03 Century with 15,000 miles on it and the ABS light just went on. The dealer was overjoyed to tell him that it needed an "ABS module" for $650. He hasn't had other problems with the car, but a $650 repair with 15,000 miles is just not acceptable.
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