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Chevrolet Cobalt

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    > I have to have warranty work done at the dealer where I bought the car? can I take it to any dealer?

    You can take it to any dealer. These days most dealers are hungry for work to do, even the lower pay work they do for warranty. It's better than idle mechanics or laying them off.

    >dealership because water was leaking from under the dashboard onto the passenger floorboard whenever I ran the A/C....later they figured out the problem (the heater core) and fixed it.

    Heater core leaking coolant would have had the smell of engine coolant, sort of sweet. Did that water have that smell or was it water from the AC core that collects water from the air and drips that--which is supposed to go out a drain tube below the car? That water has no smell (unless wet carpet and pads have gotten musty).

    >Fan running
    I notice the coolant fan on my Cobalt starts running on startup sitting in the garage and turns off after a time, even though the motor is cold. I'd ask the other dealership if what you're seeing is normal. If short trips are overheating the car in 40-50 degree weather, there may be something else not right in the coolant, heater setup.

    >slow heating
    The only check here for me is under the hood after the car has run from a cold start for 3-4 minutes and that's to turn off motor and reach hand to touch hoses going to heater through the firewall. I'd have to locate them in advance and wear heavy long-sleeved shirt to avoid burns from hot motor. Both hoses should be warm after 2-3 minutes.My Cobalt is exremely quick to warm up compared to leSabres I own and past cars.

    I'd make a list of concerns based on symtoms and visit another dealership service guy, under warranty, and tell them your concerns. Make copies of the service records you were given on each visit and hand them to the service manager. They should also be able to see them by computer if GM is set up the way I think they are by checking your VIN in the computer.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • peterj0459peterj0459 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2005 Cobalt in July '09 with 48,000 miles for my son to drive to High School, this being his senior year. The car has an air leakage problem at the rear seat side window seal on the passenger side. As soon as the car reaches 40 mph, you can hear the wind rushing in and gets much louder as the speed increases. We both test drove the vehicle with the windows down in the summer, so the problem went unnoticed. I had the vehicle back to the dealer last week, but they DID NOT or COULD NOT fix the problem. I would just like to fix the problem myself before winter gets here in central NY.If anyone has had this problem or knows how to correct it, please let me know how to do it and what I will need and where to get it. Thank you.
  • bporter1bporter1 Member Posts: 229
    I had the same problem on my 07 Cobalt. I had the dealership replace the rubber gasket around the door. It worked for a while, but I think the problem is back again. The factory warranty already ran out, so I do not think it will be repaired again, because I am not footing the bill. :)
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I took it to an upholstery place and GM paid for it. Not a really good advertisement for an 09 with 8,000 miles on it. Guess I'm through with economy cars by GM after driving this one a couple more years. For a few bucks more you can get a base Malibu or something else.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    The Chevy dealer has a stethoscope that can tell exactly where the leakage is coming from. I'd have him mark the spot and use some liquid rubber to seal the spot.if the dealer won't do it.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    edited February 2010
    Buried in the specs for the 2010 Cobalt is a statement that the battery is located in the trunk.

    Is this true for all models? Where is it located in the trunk? Is it covered so as not to come in contact with luggage, etc. stored in the trunk? For what reason is it located there? Aren't there some safety concerns for having it there?

    i have found no photos on the Internet that would answer any of my questions.
  • powderkeggpowderkegg Member Posts: 22
    Yes, the battery is in the trunk in my '08. And it is covered as not not come in contact with items in the trunk.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    The battery is in the middle of the rear of the trunk. And they left it uncovered and put the wrench for the tire changing right on top of it to be sure to short out. :blush:

    No, actually it's covered. I'd have to go look at mine to determine what is around it. I suspect it's a lot less likely to suffer damage than a battery under the hood sitting where most accidents will mangle the metal around the battery under the hood. I can't count the number of accident I've seen with the firemen having to rip into the hood to get at the battery because it's shorted out and there's smoke coming from that area.

    A battery under the rear seat also is a safe location.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Thanks for rapid replies.

    Years ago a friend owned a Chrysler made car that had the battery located under the driver's seat. One day we pulled into an unpaved parking lot next to a swimming pool where we were headed. Suddenly there came smoke from under the driver's seat. There was a short where the battery cable had failed. With no extinguisher at hand we ended up sloshing mud from the parking lot onto the short to put out the fire.

    Hence my being sensitive to the location of the battery in a car I am thinking of buying !
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    edited February 2010
    My real concern is that a battery in the trunk requires that a heavy live battery cable must then pass all the way forward to the engine. I would think that makes more likely the chance of shorts and fires because of battery cable failure or as a result of crashing.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Bought new 2010 Cobalt last week to replace my 1996 Cavalier.

    Do the hood and trunk struts not "pop up" the hood and trunk lids? Mine only hold the lids up once they have been manually raised.

    Is the 1 1/2 inch diameter plastic disk right above my head the inside temperature sensor?
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Don't know about the disk but your lids are working properly
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    That disk is your OnStar microphone: big brother is listening? ;)

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • petras2petras2 Member Posts: 104
    lately the factory alarm on my 09 cobalt has been going off for no reason..usually 10 min to 30 min after the doors are locked and alarm armed with the remote key..the security light is flashing normally and the only way to prevent the alarm from going off to to manually lock the doors, thus not arming the alarm..anyone experience this? thanks
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Does anyone have any idea as to why GM went to 4-lug wheels on the Cobalt?

    Every car I've owned (starting in 1951) has had 5-lug wheels.

    And very few cars today have 4-lug wheels.
  • jeffro10jeffro10 Member Posts: 1
    Guess What!

    I have a 2010 LT and it has a trunk leak too. Not to mention that I noticed many of the seals around the door windows are not installed properly. I imagine that this car is going to leak like a sive when it downpours for the first time since owning it today.

    My dealer will have a lot to answer to and work on.
  • alistair010alistair010 Member Posts: 2
    My mother loves her Cobalt! She gets the biggest kick out of showing it off.

    Off topic: She's in the St. Louis-area got bought it from Johnny Londoff Chevrolet. She can't recommend them enough.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    located next to the positive terminal of the remote battery connections (under the hood) ?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    It's a large group of fuses and relays. The cover comes off by pressing in on clips on the left and right sides. It's a tight fit to pull it up. Once it's off, the identity of each fuse and relay is imprinted on the underside of the cover you just lifted!

    It's probably shown also in the owners manual in the glovebox.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Thanks imidazo. The box location is shown on page 6-14 and the fuses inside are identified on page 6-127. I didn't expect to find that info so far towards the back of the manual !
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    edited November 2010
    Does anyone use the Fram SD4 Sure Drain Oil Drain Plug System for easy draining of oil from their Cobalt ?

    I have previously used this exact plug with great success in my 2005 Cavalier (and an SD-2 plug in my 2002 Mazda)

    Since my new 2010 Cobalt has an Ecotec engine very similar to the 2005 Cavalier, I assumed that the SD4 plug could be used in my Cobalt

    However, Amazon.com says "This product does not fit your 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt"

    Since Fram has sold the Fram Oil Drain Plug business to another party, Fram no longer gives advice on this product

    The Fram SD4 is described as a size M12 x 1.75

    Here's a link to the page that concerns me about whether I should try to use the SD4 Fram oil drain plug in my 2010 Cobalt :

    Amazon.com: Fram SD4 SureDrain Fast Access Oil Change Drain Plug System: Automotive: Reviews, Prices & more

    Notes:

    The Fram system includes (1) drain plug with an internal valve, (2) "valve opener" that screws on to open the valve, (3) 8 inch long piece of tubing to direct the oil flow into a container of your choice and (4) cap that screws onto the plug, providing a seal against the very unlikely event that the valve should leak. The valve opener is removed before you put the cap on.

    Since the valve opener must make several rotations to open the valve, there is a real possibility that the tubing (being rather stiff) may pop off the valve opener and cause a spill. To avoid this you might want to use more flexible tubing. For myself, I do not attach the tubing until I have the valve opener screwed on and I can see a tiny amount of oil beginning to escape.

    This product, along with the up-top oil filter, makes Ecotec engine oil changing especially easy and without a mess. I've used this product for 8 years on two cars, and I recommend it highly.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I installed the Fram SD4 Sure Drain Oil Drain Plug System on my 2010 Cobalt and it seems to fit and function just fine. I believe this item has been discontinued, or is close to being discontinued. It's well worth getting one before they are all gone.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I agree.
    To avoid the expense and weight, they likely grounded it to the chassis nearby at the trunk.

    But the positive cable is a different story. I doubt they used a very heavy gauge of copper cable for the run from the positive terminal to the starter of the engine. Starters have an extremely high amperage demand while starting the engine. More than every other electrical component all added together at the same time.

    So they are prone to slow or no-starts on cold winter mornings (if they cheaped out on a light cable).

    The idea being that the longer the length of a wire, more resistant loss builds up, so voltage and amperage loss happens. Just like using too long and light gauge extension cord at home will get hot and not perform properly on big draw items like lawnmowers or heaters.
    With the car scenario, cold wx temps lowers the efficiency of a battery's crank capacity.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    edited November 2010
    Now GM has changed their mind and put the battery up front in the Cruze !

    Has anyone had a problem with battery being in the trunk ?
  • maxmiusmaxmius Member Posts: 2
  • maxmiusmaxmius Member Posts: 2
    Well i have a 2007 Chevy cobalt ss/sc. I've been having a problem with the fuel gauge going from 3/4 tank full to empty telling me fuel low, and problems with a rough idle. It's like a metal clicking noise. But driving down the road very smooth.
  • michelle52michelle52 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    i have a 2006 cobalt that cuts off all the time its like its not getting any gas when you crank the car it cuts off if you dont keep ur foot on the gas..when you push in the clutch to stop it cuts off no matter what you have to keep ur foot on the gas to keep the car running....i have changed the fuel filter and that didnt help does anyone have any suggestions......thanks for any help that is given
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    michelle52,
    I would recommend having your vehicle looked at by an authorized GM dealer. Please keep me updated on your progress with this issue.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Valve deposits?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I can get some slack in the spring-loaded cord on the right side of the glove box, but I cannot get the hard plastic piece to disengage. I assume that the "head" inside the box is supposed to move down and pass through the lower, larger hole, but I cannot get it to move down even a little bit. When I read elsewhere about it "snapping" out, is considerable force required to do that?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    On the earlier years, you squeeze in on both sides of the glove box and it drops out of its track. That allows you access to the air filter compartment behind it. I don't remember how the black cable is handled. I just checked the owner manual in the glovebox--page 3-21

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    edited March 2011
    With considerable difficulty I was able to change my cabin air filter (2010 Cobalt Coupe). I couldn't get the spring-loaded cord to detach, which would have helped. The swing down section immediately in front of the filter collided with some heavy wiring that had to be shoved aside (and the swing-down section had to held down with one hand while removing and replacing the filter).

    After I removed the filter I looked inside the cavity. There I was surprised to see some raised sheet metal on the right side, half the height of the opening, a seemingly impassable object in the way of inserting the new filter. In fact, the only way to insert the filter was to angle it upwards at about 45 degrees.

    This is the worst designed item I have yet to see on my Cobalt. There appears to be no ledge for the filter to sit on. Therefore, I believe it is impossible for the filter perimeter to be adequately sealed so as to direct the blower air thru it. Most of the air will bypass the filter.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Yes, its a lousy design. It's also hard to figure out which direction the arrow should go in since the filter is so low in the cabin, should it point down or does the air come in below so should it point up? Very odd design.
    At least its easier to install than on the Impala
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Looks like an "afterthought" doesn't it? If the Impala installation is even harder, it must be nigh impossible!
  • powderkeggpowderkegg Member Posts: 22
    Mine was as simple as this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Od_yiteh2A
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    The filter is actually at the front of the engine bay somewhere, you have to pull off the rubber at the base of the windshield. i had a mechanic do it, didnt want to touch it! I do my Cobalt's but when I was pulling down the glovebox the rubberband piece broke off, never to be seen again.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Was the arrow on the filter facing up or down?
    I buy a Micron air filter now instead of the GM one, it has a better filter on it. You should see the crap it collects! I change it every year
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Re that video (which I had seen before) : I could not get that cord to unsnap from the glovebox lid. And in no way could my filter be inserted as shown, because of the sheet metal bulge on the right side (inside the cavity) that absolutely prevented the filter from going straight in.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporter is looking to interview anyone with a GM vehicle that doesn't seem to accurately read fuel levels.
    Please email pr@edmunds.com Friday, April 29, 2011 to share your story.
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    Jeannine

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I didn't unsnap the cord -it appears to be impossible anyway. I squeezed the sides of the glovebox and it dropped down far enough for me to unsnap the filter door. The filter seems to go in and up at about a 25 degree angle. The filter is flimsy and you have to be careful when pushing the new one in.
    I had no trouble closing the filter door and the glove box. I have 30k miles on my 09 (bought new in Sept. 08) and the filter was absolutely filthy -couldn't see the sun through it. I'll replace it at 15k from now on. We are in Eastern NM and have a lot of dust and blowing dirt out here. Perhaps in Scarsdale one could get away with changing it at 30k.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    Despite all of the car magazines knocking the Cobalt (easily forgotten etc) my 09 LT Coupe in Victory Red still looks like new and has been very dependable. The famous steering column problem was taken care of twice and the left door rattles (I'm giving the dealer on my next trip in some foam rubber to jam in there). He has "fixed" it twice and it still rattles. The rattle is at the level of the arm rest and about 3/4 of the way back. If I press on the fabric the noise stops. Other than these things the car has been great.

    I like the 4 speed transmission. My new Malibu has a 6 speed and it feels slushy. The car also feels light. The Cobalt actually feels like a heavier car. Mileage on my last trip back from Albuquerque (214 miles) averaged 43,1 and I drove 70-75 on most of the trip. I usually get 23-25 around town and normally the high 30's on the road. It is not a sports car but looks sporty unlike the Cruze which replaced it. If GM coes out with a Cruze coupe or convertible I'll trade the Cobalt in but I'll probably keep it for years if it stays dependable. It is a great car and I've owned everything from Jags to Fiats.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    Just came back from a 4 day trip to NJ and rented a Cruze. If anybody out there is thinking of trading in a Cobalt for a Cruze DON'T. It has a wierd transmission that seems to slip all over the place -not a smooth shift like a 4 speed. The engine roars and has poor acceleration. The car has Firestone 710 tires and you feel every pebble but overall ride is satisfactory. Gas mileage is terrible. I averaged 21.1 on mostly town driving (very little bumper to bumper) and despite freeway travel never broke 30. The car had nice leather upholstery but a complicated radio and info system. Look at an Elantra or Corolla instead. My new Malibu cost less than this Cruze and drives like a Cadillac compared to it.
  • bporter1bporter1 Member Posts: 229
    I have been experiencing some intermittent water leak issues on the driver side. Has anyone else had these issues? I am planning on taking the car into the dealership next Monday. They have a water leak guy that only comes in on Monday's. If the door seals need to be replaced, I will be a little angry. My car only has 53K on it. Other than this issue the car has been pretty good. :confuse:
  • petras2petras2 Member Posts: 104
    with the engine still running on my 09 cobalt LT, the ignition key, still in the run position, would not turn to any other position..had to shut down the engine by removing a fuse..anyone experience this problem? car just passed 36k on the odometer so i'm hoping dealer gives me a break on the repair costs..
  • rdesantisrdesantis Member Posts: 30
    I would like to reverse my Front seat head rests to give me a little extra room. I find them tilted forward too much. Has anyone had too take them out? I am having one heck of a time doing so. After pushing in the "clip" to get the head rest to its highest level it will not let me go any further. Any ides, Cobalters?? I have rotated the headrests in my HHR.

    Thank you :confuse:
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I have about 32,000 miles on my 2009 Malibu LT (bought in Sept. 2008) and the original Continental tires still have plenty of tread. I rotated them every 6,000 miles or so. When they finally wear down I intend to replace them with exactly the same tires and may use them for my 2011 Malibu eventually. They are great tires.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporter is looking to interview someone who lives in California and who bought a Chevy car (not truck) in the past year. Please email pr@edmunds.com by Monday, October 17, 2011 if you care to share your story. Please include your phone number, the make/model you drove before and the type of Chevy you bought.

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  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    If that reporter wants to talk with someone who just got screwed royally by GM social media here I am. They talked me into going to a dealer and spending $80 to inspect my Cobalt, making it sound like they were going to take care of me. Then the dealer says the car needs new sway bar bushings (bad bushings are a known problem with Cobalts) and the 'fix' actually made the car worse and GM just told me thyey aren't going to cover it!
    Think this leaves a bad taste in my mouth after having put $1400 into this POS over the past month? I'm spitting blood right now
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    I totally understand why you're irritated.

    I can't control what members of the media want to do a story about, but I WILL remember your comment if there's an opportunity that fits.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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  • djfunkmastergdjfunkmasterg Member Posts: 4
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