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Comments
I hope all owners enjoy theirs.
I’ve noticed upon startup with the climate control on auto the defroster comes on for the first minute or two. This may be in part responsible for the cold start stumble some have written about as the air conditioner will be used to assist the defrosters. Just an idea.
Happy driving!
As for service, my dealer is also the Chrysler dealer and I own a Chrysler Concorde and I get very good service at the dealer for both vehicles. I have to find out what SAE oil they use, as the Verona manual says one should use only 5W-30 or 10W-40 it the 5W-30 is not available. The manual also says 10W-30 should not be used. I am getting a lot of owner surveys from different marketing survey companies. I completed one from Suzuki and refuse to complete the other ones.
There was another post (don't remember who or when) about the oil filter. Some one had the oil changed and the one doing the oil change did not have a filter. And yes, it takes almost 7 qts, check page 5-48. If your mechanic has to get the filter from the dealer, why not let the dealer do the oil changes as they should know the type of oil to use and always have a record to use if needed for the warrantee. I find my dealer is no more expensive than the oil change stations around town as I checked on cost. Hope this helps. By the way, I am in East Central Florida.
Under normal driving conditions I can't imagine needing the 40, expecially with 7 quarts of oil in your engine, but if you live in a cold climate the 5 or 10 rating might help with starting and immediate oil circulation in the winter.
Their recommendations don't seem to make any sense. Whatever their reason though, it doesn't cost any more to follow their advice than to ignore it. I'd follow it for warranty reasons.
Had a disturbing occurrence on Friday. I parked the car and ran into a store. When I came out, I started the car, but I could not shift out of Park. I pressed and released brake a few times, but still could not get it to catch. I turned the car off, waited a minute or two, restarted the car, but still could not get the car to shift out of Park. I was parked on an incline, so that might explain why I could not get it out of park. Finally, I popped off the plastic cover (not easy) and put my key into the shift lock space and I was able to shift out of park. I attributed the problem to being parked on an incline.
However, when I left work a few hours later, the car was parked in a level space in a garage. I started the car and could not shift out of park. Had to go the shift lock key route.
Have not experienced the issue again. Any thoughts?
Regarding bumper tests I suggest you try not to bump your car(any car for that matter) into any object more sturdy than an empty plastic trash can and expect not to damage it. If you do have a mishap while driving do whatever it takes to keep your insurance company from finding out and god forbid have them pay anything. When I say do anything that includes paying for the damages yourself and bribing public officials.
Now insurance companies are really great folks. If you are a good boy or girl, pay them outrageous fees to cash and keep your checks on a regular basis and never ever trouble them with any other paper work you will (if you are lucky and live to attain an older age bracket) realize a general decrease in the fee you pay them to cash and keep your checks. I should add that if you should be involved in an accident and are not able to pay for the damages or bribe public officials then the insurance industry is more than happy to serve you/themselves. For further information see usurious.
I would like bumpers that cost little to replace. However, the IIHS comes up with the huge figures for such a small test because it pays to have the car repaired to be sold as new. Every scratch, dent, broken plastic, and so on. In reality, most (from my prospective) would simply drive around without replacing anything. Pop the bumper back out, or replace a headlight. I would, vs. making a claim or paying out of my pocket. Most of the "damage" is invisible anyway. Even if the other car was at fault, wouldn't it be tempting to pocket the money?
I've thought about this: since they buy these cars off of the lot with no one knowing, how can they possibly explain the damage to the shop repair guy without blaming it on "driving under the influence while parallel parking?" Heh. Front bumper, side fender, rear into a pole, and so on.
This cars needs more horsepower and better fuel efficiency. I will concede that the car looks very very nice inside and outside. Let them fix the 2 things and I will buy a 2005 Verona.
I went to the local Auto Show here in Kansas City and was overwhelmed with acute sticker shock! I mean the price other manufacturers want for cars comparably equipped to the Verona is just stupefying. And I’m not talking about the likes of Lexus, Acura and Cadillac. Chevrolet seems to be married to the new Malibu. I found the Suzuki display to be a safe haven from the high price of owning an automobile. And lets face it, aren’t all cars going to end up in the junkyard one of these days? So save your hard earned money and buy a car that gives you a nice blend of price, performance and luxury.
I am not in the market for a BMW, Mercedes, Jaguar or a Porsche. Am looking for a car in the $20K - $23K range because it does not make sense to me to pay much more than that for any vehicle.
I drive about 46 miles each way to work and most of it is on the highway where the speed limit is 75 mph. Most cars drive at 80 mph on that road. There are some places where the road climbs rather steeply. I carpool with 2 other people. In this kind of a situation a little more oomph is not all that bad IMHO.
I don't know if the Verona will do the job with its 155 hp. May be it will. Hard to say without trying. But I do know one thing. I will give it very serious consideration if they give it a few more ponies. I know that your blood pressure is shooting up when reading this. So I will shut up now.
Best regards to you. Verona is a a great car. I have already said that before.
Facts: (yea, I know this pertains to SUVs but try to follow what I am saying here and don't dismiss this as a "verona" forum w/o at least trying to learn a pattern).
XL7: First HP ratings on new model.....170. Upgraded to 183, then 185. Engine size stayed the same.
Grand Vitara: First engine rating 155, then upgraded to 165 next model year. Engine displacement remainded the same.
Aerio: First power rating was 141, then following year, 145. Engine displaced 2.0 liters or 122 cid. 2004 model year, it gets punched out to 2.3 liters, or 140 CID and puts out 155 HP.
If nothing else, from a marketing perspective, I seriously doubt zuke will have a mid size car with the same HP rating as their entry level Aerio. A few tweaks to intake and exhaust, freer flowing cats, some changes to the PCM along with the stroke of an engineers pen, and voila! Power increase. Bet on it. Your money is safe.
I have emailed Suzuki and am waiting for the reply. My dealer put in 10W40 ( By mistake had the sticker 10W30...as he was making stickers for a lot of other cars...Dealer is GM..) They had to order the oil from outside.
Any Opinions or experiences?. How good is synthetic Oil?.
My Verona is doing very well..no complaints.
Thanks,
Ken
For Tech issues do the following:
Go to www.suzukipitstop.com and look at the top for "contact". Click on that and an email window will open up. Fill in the details and your email address and they will reply your question. This is for tech issues only.
I got a reply for the reco. oil for the verona. The tech team confirmed what the user manual says....."Do not add 10W30 under any circumstances" . You can use 5W30 or if this is not available the manual recommends 10W40. I did some reading on oil. Here is what I found...In the term 10W40 10 refers to the temp in F. and 40 refers to the weight or viscosity. More the weight , more viscous the oil is. Usually a thinner oil is used in winter for easy starts and a thicker oil in summer. 10W40 it seems has better all round performance at diff. temp. It looks like the inline needs a thicker oil and more than 7 quarts. Readers may come to their own conclusions and decide on their own and not on what I say. Follow the user manual or consult the manufacturer!!. My Verona is running great!!
Keep us posted here on what you learn!
What is the mileage generally obtained by the forum members..on city roads and highway?. Also do give how many miles have you travelled?.
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_- id=7599
That is the extent of "problems" and the dealer was more than cooperative to make the repair.