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Comments
Sounds like your sending unit gave up the ghost...I think you could test this by grounding the wire that attaches to the sender and see if the gauge works by reading HOT.
Sorry for the basic questions, but I'm not sure what the sending unit is or where its located - is it in, or attached to, the radiator?
Here's my stumper (at least it's stumping my specialist up here in Dunwoody who's had the car about four or five times)
Headlamps are blowing:
About six months ago a fog lamp blew. The specialist said he thought it was odd, because it was melted.
A month or two later, left headlight blew. He replaced.
A month or two later, the right headlight blew. He replaced. I figured German engineering was just that precise on the life of the bulbs.
Then the fuse blew inside the car, turning off the lamps to the dash and center console.
Then an inside front headlight blew and the fuse blew again.
I told the Specialist that all these things seemed electrically related, he said that my model (2000 E320) had a problem of the alternator overcharging, so he replaced it. About three weeks went, so I was feeling good. Then the left inside front headlamp blew and a week later the big left front headlamp blew out.
So, one fog light, two fuses, an alternator, three big head lights and two or three small head lights, what do you think the problem might be? I only get the notification of the lamp problem when I start up the car (meaning I don't think the lamp is blowing while it's running). So that points to some kind of spike during ignition, but I don't know anything about cars.
I have an extended warranty on the car, so up to the alternator I had to pay for all the head lamps myself. My specialist wants to check the sockets on the lights, which makes no sense to me. For example, the inside front head light is blown in "City" (low) mode but works in "High" mode, so wouldn't that suggest the socket is fine? Moreover, that wouldn't explain the plethora of lamps failing (five unique sockets so far -- and the right fog lamp may have failed and I just can't keep track) would it?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Rick
Talk about cheap. But, it's par for the course with this car. This car really makes one wonder what is going on with MB manufacturing.
I own E 500 for about a month. I have noticed this annoying problem with head lights since I got the car. After going thru set up menu to keep the setting on manual ( not constant ) head lights stayed on in AUTO. I went to my dealer & he changed the sensor. Noe lights dont stay on all day but stays on till 9 or 10 am. And if you are not facing sun, it would stay on till noon. Is this normal? I owned X5, MDX & Infiniti. I never had this problem. Lights would turn off by 7.30 to 8 am. It still does in MDX & infiniti. I am worried my xenon lamps would burn out much faster. Only option is to keep lights in O position. But I am so used to lights being in Auto.
Can any one shed "light" :confuse: on this?
Do the electrical issues exist with the base E320 with sunroof, heated seats, and mutiple CD player without the nav? Do all 03 E-class have terrible brake by wire, or only the ones with Distronic Cruise Control?
I have never owned a MB. If an E320 does not nickle and dime me to death, I would love to buy one. I have great memories of my dad's 1973 220D, and his 1978 280S. I like to buy an E320 for good old days, and not for the status symbol that it stand for in the US.
It is great to buy something with warranty, but I will be looking at ones with over 50K miles.
Thanks,
Joe
Loyalowner
(IF NOT) the noise you are hearing is coming from the Charcoal Canister Shutoff Valve and because of emmission regulations are much strictor it does sound louder because it is shuting on and off, I have heard this on several cars. Noise only occurrs during the Engine Mangagement self test for Evaporative Emmision test, which may occur when at a Stop light and or depending on fuel level.
Doesn't Mercedes have any extended HIDDEN warranty on any of these items?
Thanks,
Joe
The dealer indicated that he spoke with the mechanic and the noise I am hearing is the electric motor charging the braking system. The explanation doesn't really pass the smell test to me. Thanks.
Remedy---A complete new instrument package. Mine was still under warranty so do not know the cost. Afraid to ask.
Of course, ask to test out another car like yours and to compare. The SBC pump often will run when you open the door or when you turn on the car.
me (German-made). MB has been building luxury cars for almost a century, begining in Sindelfingen, Germany in 1910 and its reputation was impeccable until the decision was made to mass produce these vehicles in the USA. Perhaps all the problems rest with American "work ethic" and not MB.
>filter changes. The MB dealer charges $250 for schedule A, and some $450 for schedule B. It is amazing that besides oil/filter, and cabin air filter change, the rest is all inspection!!! If they have to replace anything they charge you more. I do not believe in putting Mobil 1 in and forget about oil change for 14K miles. I don't care what the FSS says, however I will continue to use Mobile 1 since it is specified.
Several questions;
>Where is the FSS rest botton?
>Where is the cabin filter located?
>What is the wrench size for oil drain plug?
>Can I use regular $6 paper element Bosch oil filter instead of $19 fleece type filter? I will not go more than 6K miles between oil changes as they say Fleece type is suitable for long servive intervals.
>
>I do appreciate the help with my questions.
>
>Thanks,
Joe
(1) Test the middle pin with AC switch disconnected--->0 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
(2) Test the middle pin with AC Switch connected ----->12 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
(3) Test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 11 Volts (b) Switch 2--->10 Volts (c) Switch 3--->9 Volts (d) Switch 4--->8 Volts (e) Switch 5--->5.5 Volts
(4) With Engine On, test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 12.5 Volts (b) Switch 2--->12 Volts (c) Switch 3--->11 Volts (d) Switch 4--->10 Volts (e) Switch 5--->7 Volts
Whats odd is that the Blower keep blasting away with or without the AC Switch connected or disconnected.
But the Multimeter detected 12 Volts in the middle pin when the AC Swicth is connected but 0 Volts when discoonected?
I suggest anyone who lives in a climate like ours where the summers get to 100-112 for weeks on end to invest in spare regulators... as it is only a matter of time :mad:
My two cents...
The owner manual is missing and they have ordered one. Once I get it, I am sure it will answer a lot of my questions.
You are correct. Walmart does carry both 0w40 and 15W50 oil weights. I just have a problem with using synthetic when I used regular oil all my life. I have never ever had engine problem ever. I just don't know what makes the MB so unique. In Middle East, I know tons of these MB are driving around, and I KNOW in those countries they don't have the $ or variety of oil range options that we have in the US.
Joe
The following day after starting the car, I drove a couple of blocks and stopped at a stoplight, put the car in park, and the engine stopped, with the same sound as when it would not start. It started right up after that.
Today it did the same as the first time. Coming to the car when it had been off for several hours, it would not start and gave the same sound. Tried 2-3 times with same result, then 15 minutes later it started fine.
I had the car in the shop last week and they checked the battery and alternator and said they were good, and they couldn't tell what was causing it. Today I took it back and they said the same thing. There is no malfunction light. He suggested that it could be the key, which may not be connecting right to get the anti theft function off. He named several other things it could be but said he can't test for those unless they are happening, and it's starting fine now.
Any ideas? thanks in advance.
If so, it is possible that you have missing teeth on the starter (broken off due to misuse in the past). In this case, it might engage just fine some of the time, but not at others, depending on the random position it is in when thrown out. If so, then it might just as randomly start with ease, or take several tries until the teeth are lined up in a physical position that allows them to engage properly.
However, this would not explain the car "stopping with the same sound" when you put it in Park. The above described scenario would apply to an older vehicle. I really don't know if the same mechanism is used in "modern" cars.
Yes it was a rapid sound. What you described seems to make sense, but we'll see.
I am a believer in synthetic oil. It doesn't break down or lose any of its lubrication properties at high miles like dino oil. Drive two cars for a while around town, one with synthetic, one without -- then open the hoods and lift the oil caps. The dino oiled car will have "smoke" coming up from the filler cap and the synthetic oiled car will not. Synthetic simply doesn't break down. My previous Dodge Intrepid's 3.2 liter engine was always treated with Mobil 1. I drove the absolute snot out of the car with 90% city driving, changed the oil every 10,000 miles and never experienced any engine problems and never burned a drop of oil. When Mobil developed the Extended Performance oil, I switched to 15,000 mile intervals for oil changes. When the car was totalled at 122K miles, I inherited my M-B from my mother. My entire family uses Mobil 1 in all of their cars with extended oil change intervals and no one has ever had a single engine problem [Ford, Honda, Toyota, Chevy, Volvo]. Additionally, after switching to the 229.5 oil in the M-B, it hasn't had any problems with the engine (following the FSS oil change interval).
Thanks,
Joe
I am having the same thing happen, I was thinking it was the temp cooler relay switch thing. I flushed the cooling system and I thought it was fixed. Today it quit twice. I popped the hood, felt a rush of heat, the gauge also was higher than it usually is. The guage was well abouve the 80 it usually is. As soon as the engine is cooled the concern is still there after a little cooling it starts, I am so pissy about being stranded. I saw the information about the starter, today during one of the start concern I heard a click, something abnormal. What can we do? any ideas? I tell ya I am frustrated. I have never heard my main fan run on the car rushing air into the cooler? hmmmm still up in arms.
Did you ever get your clock, temp guage and gear selection guage fixed? What was the issue?
Any suggestions from other members is appreciated.
I have a 2002 e320 that has the same problem.
Thanks.
TD.
When clock/shifter/temp read out go out in 2000-2002, it will cost about $1400 to replace it. They have to replace the entire IP. My E430 is a great car to drive, but I am kind of disappointed at MB for their nagging quality issues. Mercedes has already said that they have no intention of catching Lexus in build quality.....I don't think they can.
There is no doubt that Mercedes tests the water with new hi tech items much more than any Japanese car manufacturer will ever dare to, I just wish Mercedes would prove out the technology longer before mass marketing it. Look at their brake by wire on 2003 E-class.......
Still MB is a great driving car, and I keep praying that things don't go wrong with mine!!!
Joe
There are places to get the instrument panel repaired
JOIN THE MB CLUB. Only $45 per year. You will find advertisers for most items that repair or replace parts for much less than MB dealers.
Just bought a 2005 E320CDI from their websight from another member at much less than a preowned from the dealer. If you have already spent $ 50,000 onthe car joining the club is a no brainer. Also sold my 2001 E320 here.
I think MB was using dino oil in these engines with Flex Service that came out in 1998. Once they had issues with dino oil that FSS said to replace at 12-14K miles, they were seeing engine damage and then MB said to switch to synthetic to control the engine damage.
I think going so long between oil changes might have done some damage....I hear some lifter noise at cold starts that goes away after about a minute or two. A high tech engine like Mercedes V-8 that had oil changes at MB dealer at perscribed A and B service intervals, should not have lifter noise.
Joe