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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • drtraveldrtravel Member Posts: 395
    Have a 97 E320. My wife is petite so she puts the seat really far up front. Every once in awhile I drive the car so I have to move the seat back. Not really a problem because we just store our settings in the memory seat. Awhile back I noticed that the seat wouldn't move back from my position. I'm only 5'-8". I last drove the car a week ago and then the wife has been driving it since. Well today I tried to adjust the seat back and it starts moving but then stops - like something is stopping the seat. All other seat movements work fine (up/down etc.) it's just that when the seat moves back it only goes so far and then stops - it goes forward without any problems. It doesn't even move back to the previously stored position any more. When I push the button to move the seat back I can hear the motor working but the seat doesn't want to go back any further.

    Anyone have any ideas as to the cause and fix. Hate to take it to the dealer who will charge me an arm and a leg just to identify the problem and then probably recommend replacing the entire seat!
  • bottomsuppbottomsupp Member Posts: 11
    A few things actually:

    1. Install a 1200CCA gel cell.
    2. Install a "battery buddy" ...insures no more battery problems (..google it ..to find ..piece of cake to install).

    The clicking ...wacked battery ..your electronics will suffer ...resets, etc.

    Sincerely
  • solosolo Member Posts: 48
    My 94 E320 has the most annoying buzzer that blares when the door is opened, the lights are on or the key is in the ignition. Has always driven me nuts. Has anyone tried to disconect this little monster? Has anyone opened the dashboard in back of the speedo? Seems like thats where it is located.. Any help would be appriciated.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Update...Lats night I put a battery charger on it, it should weak battery. In less than two hours, showed the battery was charged, cranked and it started fine. This morning dead again, Put a new MB battery in it, Started fine.

    As message 830 said, I have resetting problems. The ABS/BAS lights are on and the radio says CODE. I think I need to take it back to the dealer to reset things. I hate this about the car. Why do I have to reset anything if I am replacing a dead battery. Can they add something to programming that recognizes a weak crank as a result of a weak/dead battery. I do not have all the owner manual stuff that shows the radio code. Leave it to Germans to complicate simple tasks. It is odd, I thought may be I loose the clock, trip odometer, and radio station settings. Clock and trip odometers kept their settings and ABS light is on!!

    Joe
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I got every thing reset after replacing the battery except the radio. I do not have the card for radio code. Can the dealer tell me what the code is by the VIN, or do they need to take the radio out, check the serial#, and then determine the code? Does anyone know?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • knoxburgknoxburg Member Posts: 3
    I have a '94 SL500 5L and noticed about a year ago, when traveling across the Smoky Mountains, that my oil pressure dropped to 0 at the higher altitude (4,000 feetish) and the engine temperature was about at 180. If I dropped down to 2nd and kept the revs above about 3,000 the oil pressure would be OK. It didn't help when coasting down hill, but eventually the enginge temperature would drop some and the problem would go away. I noticed it again later, when not in the mountains, when I would use 2nd for a short period of time and then go back to 3rd or Drive. It happened again this past weekend going back over the mountains, and dropping to 2nd seemed to be the cure until I got back to somehwhat lower engine temps. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • knoxburgknoxburg Member Posts: 3
    My 1994 SL500 gives a dull clunk sound which I would guess comes from the right rear wheel area. It is hard to tell while driving exactly where it comes from, so that is a guess. I will happen when I go ovre something not much bigger than a crack in the road, and sometimes it will happen for no apparent reason. I had the tires rotated recently and asked them to check my shocks, but they said all look fine. It has been going on for about two years, never in the Summer, and the Winters here in Tennessee are not that cold, and it doesn't have to be below freezing for the sound to appear. Thanks for any help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a defective oil pressure sending unit or gauge to me, because with actually 0 oil pressure your engine would have destroyed itself within a few minutes.

    This is not something you want to mess around with, though, and you should have the problem verified asap. If you lose the engine in that car, it is essentially totalled, as a rebuild will cost you $15,000.
  • knoxburgknoxburg Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, is this a common problem? Is there someway I can verify it myself without going to the dealer?
  • pfentonpfenton Member Posts: 16
    Engine temperatures reaching 180 degrees is not a good thing... Even under hard operating conditions, the engine temperature should not exceed 120-130 degrees. High engine compartment temperatures can easily ignite fuel canisters,
    alternators, wiring harness and such....resulting in
    under hood fires, serious damage and great, great expense.
    If my '93 500 SL engine temperature ever spiked that high,
    I would definitely have an expert check the engine cooling and exhaust systems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    WEll if you could find the sensor in the block, you could ground the wire that connects it to the engine block and have someone read the gauge...if the gauge goes all the way to maximum (oil pressure I mean)then the gauge is okay, it must be the sensor. You can usually just unscrew the sensor and put in a new one with a deep socket of the proper size. You can't really test a pressure sensor very easily.

    A more scientific method is to temporarily install an analog (direct pressure) gauge that is not electrical and see how it reads while you are driving. That would tell if if something is amiss in the engine.

    IMO, 180 degrees temperatures are fine, ( I assume we are talking FARENHEIT here) because your cooling system is operating under pressure, which means that the boiling point of the coolant is raised....I think one degree of boiling point for every 2 degrees of pressure in the radiator cap. Engines like to run hot for best thermal efficiency and modern cars are actually running 225 degrees at certain times...which is why many manufacturers don't put in "real" temp gauges anymore, but either give you a light or an "H" and "C" symbol. If you run too cold, your engine can sludge up....so you know, like Goldilocks....not too hot (above 225), not too cold (below 160), just right (180)....some folks running marine engines might be used to lower temperatures but those engines are run under quite different conditions than car engines.
  • scott69scott69 Member Posts: 2
    I need help I have a e 500 2004 that I have leased for 39 months. I am 24 months into the lease and the car has developed a gas leak. This is the first problem that I have had with this car. It has 18,490 miles. I took the car to the dealer on sept. 6. They said they fixed the problem and would deliver the car back on fri. sept 8. They called and said they had a minor accident with the car on the way to deliver it back to me. I went to the dealership the following day to look at the damage. It was only cosmetic damage to the rear bumper. The car was painted and returned to me the following Mon. night. The car was returned to me dirty from the body shop. I went to run the car through the car wash and fuel it up. When i got home fuel poured out from the bottom of the car. They picked the car up again the following day. They kept the car for 2 weeks had to replace the back seat due to fuel contamination. I had a conversation with the managing owner of the dealership about the fact that I was not comfortable with ever driving the car again because of safety issues. He said he agreed and he would help me get out of the lease and into a new 2006 e5oo. When i was presented the deal it was no deal at all he just added expenses to what a normal lease would be on the car. after i declined the deal on the new lease they returned the car back to me they said it was fixed but when i fueled it up it leaked again they picked it up again the next day.It is now @30 days that i have been without the car and i have no relief in sight. I dont even have a loaner car. What should i do! I have consulted my lawyer but i dont think that is the way to go. HELP!
  • scott69scott69 Member Posts: 2
    Forget the above post, MB steped up to the plate and released me from the E500 lease today. I am going to lease a 2007 ml 500. What a relief!!!!!!!
  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    Why don't you think that's the way to go? You are getting screwed over!
  • templeton3templeton3 Member Posts: 69
    You are foolish to accept another Mercedes. Mercedes put your life in DANGER!!! The Mercedes product is not what it used to be.
    Mercedes bought my car back under the lemon law, gave me a great deal on another new Mercedes (ML500). Had it for a year, so many nagging problems, couldn't wait to get rid of it.

    Try BMW or Lexus.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    A reporter from a large daily newspaper is looking to speak to Mercedes-Benz owners in the Washington DC area about the expectations you have with the car when you purchase it and any problems you’ve had to deal with. Please provide your daytime contact info to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Monday, October 16, 2006.

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  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    My problem was the battery. I did not have the radio code to reactivate it. I called the dealer, gave them the VIN and they told me the code.

    If the battery is four years old, my suggestion is to replace it. Mine went 5.5 years. It was a stretch and I was planning on replacing it before Winter. It went out before I had a chance to do it.

    Joe
  • brokenwindowsbrokenwindows Member Posts: 2
    I had my second rear window failure in 2 months on my 2000 E320. The dealer was absolutely no help in offering to support the fix. Not to mention they could not have been more arrogant. I paid over $450 for the first failure to be repaired and don't look forward to spending that amount again for a second MB engineering design flaw. I then called the "Customer Support" area and they said it was totally the dealers call. To make matters worse I purchased a new E350 from the same dealership just before the failure - it didn't mean a thing to them. Does anybody have any recommendations and/or has anyone received any monetary support for this all too frequent problem?
  • ccmbduong1ccmbduong1 Member Posts: 49
    Jodar96

    1. When a battery is dead, it's dead and won't give you any warning. That's why I always change my car's battery before its time

    2. Call any MB dealer, give them your VIN # and they will give you the code. They will check a few things with you to make sure that you are the real car owner. It happened to me.

    Good luck
  • mezecamezeca Member Posts: 66
    That couldn't be further from the truth. Even older vehicles had thermostats between 160 and 180 degrees.
    Todays vehicles have thermostats around 195+ degrees for
    emissions purposes.
  • dirtyharyusdirtyharyus Member Posts: 3
    Hi
    I recently bought a 1999 E320 in the us that had gone 56k miles. First couple of months it drove fine. Recently, I slowed down in an expressway due to traffic and then tried to accelerate when I noticed that I had to give a lot of gas to accelerate and the engine speeed was also way too high. I drove for a while and then came to a stop at a gas station when I shifted to P (park) the car jolted front. I switched of the engine and started after a few minutes and the car drove fine. This had happened two times in the last 4 days. This used to be drive in east coast for the first 3 years and then in California for the 4 years.
    Can someone please tell me the possible root-cause of this symtoms I had explained? What do you advice I do?
    Is the transmission go bad?
    Thank you very much in advance.
  • brokenwindowsbrokenwindows Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem at the same mileage and it turned out to be an exhaust problem. Have that checked out as MB has been repairing that problem free due to a faulty design. Apparently the ceramics in the exhaust disintegrate and block the exhaust flow.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Sounds like a problem with the catalytic converter. The platinum catalist is coated on ceramic beads which rest on multiple fine metal grids in the exhaust gas flow. If the metal grids deteriorate/warp, it can affect exhaust gas extraction with some "interesting" driveability issues. The good news is that automakers are on the hook for catalytic converters for the first eight years or eighty-thousand miles, whichever comes first, under the Federal emissions warranty. Gub'mnt intrusion into commerce, environmental, and social issues is a terrible burden on the citizenry (except when you're the beneficiary of its meddling... ;)).
  • mbmexmbmex Member Posts: 2
    i don't know the name of that thing, i live in mexico, but my 1998 e320 had the same problem and it was a device that is located between the air filter and the admission and regulates the air flow. mercedes dealer charged me about $ 180.00 but a $ 30.00 unit can be bought elsewhere, only if i would know.
  • pentzypentzy Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 E320 4 matic has a few small problems. I get a slight vibration on initial take off much like bad tires. The tires and alignment are fine. Also there is a slight rear end noise when I let off the gas. The noise goes away when there is slight acceleration. The most annoying is a high frequency squeal that comes intermittently. It sounds like a squeach on a microphone or the cars telephone. My car no longer makes that telephone dial up sound that it did before.The noise is more prevalent when the heater is on.
  • pentzypentzy Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 E320 seems to have the same problem. It sounds like a cheap microphone squelch. I thought it was the radio then the heater, but it sounds like a phone or CB squelch tone. My car used to make a dial up noise when you started it but I don't hear that anymore.I own my own body shop and would like to have some info before I start looking
  • engineer1engineer1 Member Posts: 9
    Have 2006 E sedan bought new; now have approx. 7.7k miles. Three or four times now (that I have noticed), car bellows large cloud of blue smoke when I start it. Seems to occur when I start the car and move it (like back it out of the garage, turn it off and restart it say an hour later). I have as yet to confirm this sequence. My first guess is oil leaking down the valve stems as engine temp. is cold and there is a cold temp. clearance problem. Oil consumption is close to zero. Anyone else having this problem or do I again have the good fortune to be the only person in the world to have this problem? Otherwise, I love the car, excellent performance and gas mileage, handles like a dream. Just embarassing as hell to have a new $55k car that smokes like a Cuban taxicab.
  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    It's in warranty. Take it in and let Lexus tell you what's wrong. It shouldn't do that.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "Lexus"? Is that the new, alternate spelling for "Mercedes-Benz", steve3226? ;) (been there, done that myself)
  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    Sorry, my error. I have both brands and have had far less problems with Lexus. What I should have said is: Take it back to the dealer and require them to fix it since it's in warranty.
  • hawkeyes2hawkeyes2 Member Posts: 5
    Steve,

    You mention you have both Lexus and M B. I have had Toyota Camrys and love them. Sold on long term reputation of Toyota. Assume the same from Lexus....

    What about Mercedes? Seem a lot less expensive on the used side than a Lexus.

    Looking at a $16,000 purchase, one of many. Like 4 Dr Sedans.

    Any advice would be welcome.

    Thanks,

    Jeff
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    Jeff,

    I've got my second E320 bought when they were approx. 2 to 2.5 years old. Since the only Lexus that fits me (6'3") is the LS, the used E320 is a LOT less money than a used LS. And the MB Starmark Certified warranty is pretty much the best in the business. No co-pay, etc. and I usually buy some extra time to make sure that the mileage/time coincide roughly around the same time.

    Fred
  • hawkeyes2hawkeyes2 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Fred. I noticed that the E 320 is a lot less money than the LS 400, when both used. I am 6'2" and like the room too. I just drove a 1999 E 320, 58000 mi, and $15,900.

    It had a lot of surface marks, and a ton of pits on the front grill, pass. I am picky.

    But, the car itself looks like the one to own. I love the LS 400, in white particularly. But a 1998 with 80K miles was on the Lexus lot for $18,000...doesn't make sense. I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less.

    Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft.

    THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?

    I assume repairs are very costly, but I have a Import Parts place that is like a Napa for imports.

    Jeff
  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    I like the way the E-320 handles (I've had 2). That said, Mercedes has given me a lot more mechanical problems. I've even had the entire transmission replaced on one (luckily, under warranty). My current '01 E-320 is still on extended warranty and I've not had any problems this past year. When it expires, I'll sell or trade it. Repairs are VERY expensive. I would NOT buy an old Mercedes out of warranty.

    My wife loves her Lexus RX330. Zero problems in 2+ years. I have an '01 Lexus IS300 w/ 52K miles for sale for $15,575, if you're interested. It's fun to drive but very cramped.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I have a 2001 E430 with 82K miles. Bought it in March 2006 with 72K miles at the local MB dealer. It had three previous owners. It appears the car was gently used; no scuff marks in the interior, decent shape leather/carpet, no curb damage on alloys, and no underbody rust/leaks.

    The engine has a noise at cold starts. It sounds like a lifter noise. When the engine warms up the sound goes away.

    I checked the service record at the dealer before buying the car, it had its A and B service on time every time. I have changed the oil/filter myself and have used Mobile 1 0W-40 oil.

    If it is lifter noise, does anyone know if MB will fix this at their expense. I know MB had a mess on its hand when people were going over 10-15K miles with regular oil with FSS. I change the oil every 7500 miles and do not trust even the modified 10K interval, but will stay with Mobile 1 for any future issues.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "The engine has a noise at cold starts. It sounds like a lifter noise. When the engine warms up the sound goes away. ... If it is lifter noise, does anyone know if MB will fix this at their expense." ((

    Dunno about M-B's willingness to comp goodwill repair work out of warranty, but that initial clatter might merely be timing chain noise through the plastic guides until the auto-tensioner pumps up with full oil pressure after a cold start. Might have an independent M-B tech give a listen and render an opinion. Then go from there. I have no issues about Mobil 1, but for an experiment, given what you related, I would try one oil change to Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic German Formula 0W-30. While nominally a 30 weight once warmed to operating temperature, it's a high 30 nudging hard at 40 according to used oil analysis reports archived at BobIsTheOilGuy.com. The Castrol is formulated to meet or exceed M-B's 229.1, 229.3, and 229.5 oil spec advisories.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Just came home from my MB dealer. MB is now recommending a "special" MB only oil--5W-40. This oil is only available at MB dealers.

    Anybody else heard about this?
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Have 2005 E320CDI with only 12,000 mi. Going to keep this car a long time.

    Need info from anybody who has recently bought an MB extended warranty from a dealer. MB did not offer this until recently unless it was puchased at the time the car was bought. Heard that this can now be done at a later time.

    Any help appreciated.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Thanks for your respond. Are you saying 40 weight might be too thick? No body says to use multi-viscosity oil with 40 or 50 high end weight except MB, BMW.

    I had a 92 325i with an in-line 2.5 engine that had to use 10W40 winter and 20W50 in summer.

    Joe
  • goodbytes1goodbytes1 Member Posts: 1
    Jeff,

    You wrote, "I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less. Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft. THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?"

    I purchased a '99 E-320 4Matic Wagon with 56k miles and have been very happy overall with it as it approaches the 100k mark. Beautiful driving and handling characteristics, solid, safe, perfect for the wife/kid.

    Repair experiences: The front brake pads lasted 32k miles between replacements which I didn't feel was too bad. We did have to spring for a catalytic converter at 93k but most manufacturers don't make them to last past 80-100k so I'm comfortable with that as well. Got 40k miles on the stock Continental tires. I was disappointed when the sun roof stopped sliding past about 3 inches at 82k miles and will opt to fix that after the rainy season. Replaced a brake switch and a smattering of bulbs. But overall, nothing really serious to complain about so I'm happy.

    From what I've read (including Consumer Reports), you may do better to stick to the '99 or earlier models for a used E-320. Mercedes is working feverishly to repair their tarnished reputation for way too many electrical problems so I would wait till 2008 if I was in the market for a new one. Good Luck!

    John
  • engineer1engineer1 Member Posts: 9
    Did some tests-start car-let run a minute or so-shut it off and restart in 30 minutes. No smoke-so much for my theory.

    Took car to MB dealer. Usual and totally expected response. Customer knows nothing-never heard of this problem before-probably condensation. MB did a software update on oil pressure monitor. Maybe clue. Does MB control oil pressure with computer? If so, this could be explanation-upon startup oil pressure sometimes too high over oiling pistons resulting in blue smoke. Anyone know anything about how MB controls oil pressure in new 3.5 engine? Would make sense though I have never heard of this before.

    If it keeps it up, before warranty expires I will wave magic wand over the MB, sprinkle some foo-foo dust on it and turn it into a Lexus. That will fix the problem!
  • ray00edmray00edm Member Posts: 12
    I bought an E350 loaded when it first came out last year. I found that there has almost no mention of the problems associated with it here. Am I in the wrong group?
  • hawkeyes2hawkeyes2 Member Posts: 5
    I originally responded to an E 320 post. But the more I know about the product, the better I feel. Still torn between the LS 400 and the E 320.
    Drove an E 320 yesterday, 1999, perfect. Started it up and the engine had a tick, tick, tick. I mentioned it, guy said it would stop when it warmed up. I knew he was full of crap, but thought I would drive it for the heck of it.
    I thought about a head problem, and they said it was a head casket, leaked, or let water into the engine, so they were actually going to push it out wholesale and would not sell it.

    Still waiting. E 320 is 30% cheaper than a LS 400 of same year. I know why, I just like the price and E 320 look better.
  • tnguyen17tnguyen17 Member Posts: 3
    :lemon:

    The climate control for this car never work.

    Outside temp 65 degrees
    Cabin temp 70 degrees
    I turned the tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, cold comes out the vents.

    and

    Outside temp 78 degrees
    Cabin temp 85 degrees
    I turned tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, Hot air comes out the vents. Drove around for 30 minutes, Air condition never kick in.
    I have proved this to Mercedes dealership, and they said the car is at factory specification.

    TBN
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Several days ago, my E430 with 84K miles developed a rattle that I have been hearing at take off, and at idling when the engine is warm. It sounded like some metalic bracket/hanger was loose.

    I jacked up the car tonight and with a rag held on to both catalytic convertors one at a time while engine was running.
    I did feel some rattles inside passenger side convertor. All brackets and hangers were tight.

    Are the baffles inside the convertor breaking up? The engine runs fine, no check engine light, and the gas mileage still good.

    Has anyone had this issue? Does MB have any warranty on convertors? My last car with a bad catalytic convertor was my 1977 Buick Skylark back in 1983.

    I use 92-93 octane gas only, and the engine has never misfired or backfired.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • turquoise_e1turquoise_e1 Member Posts: 18
    Joe, I had the same rattle in my 2000 E320 earlier this year and it was due to the converter broken into pieces. They need to be replaced. The converter costs $600+ material and a dealer workshop would charge $1000+ (incl labor) for it. But, I understand that Fed Law requires manufacturer to fix any catalytic converter problem if the car is less than 8 year old. I got mine fixed by MBUSA; the service manager took care of the paperwork. It may not hurt to talk to your service advisor or research about this 8 year old law that I read in some Edmund's forums.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    The extended Federal Emissions Warranty for catalytic converters is 8 yrs/80,000 miles so it appears the catalytic converter replacement will be on your nickel. The other unit probably is not far behind. Some motor oil formulations are heavy in their zinc dialkyl-dithiophosphate additive treat rate used as an antiwear agent (for which it's very effective - and cheap to boot). Inevitably any reciprocating internal combustion engine will burn at least some of its motor oil - and the rate at which it does so will increase proportionately to its age. Consequently, some zinc and phosphate ash is sent into the exhaust stream. Unfortunately, both zinc and phosphate are highly suspected catalytic converter killers since those elements can "poison" the catalyst-coated ceramic beads inside catalytic converters over time. When the clearance between beads is reduced too much from the coating effect of the ZDDP combustion byproducts, the back pressure of exhaust gas trying to "squeeze" through the reduced space will bust the support grills holding the beads. Rattle-rattle. Newer motor oils for American, Japanese, and Korean engines use reduced amounts of ZDDP along with the substitution of highly effective, but pricier boron and molybdenum as alternate antiwear agents. Virtually all American motor oils are formulated with this in mind. These newer agents are also much less of a threat to catalytic converters. So far the pricey European synthetics mandated for Euro-cars are holding fast to traditional levles of ZDDP, though. Since the European union tests motor oils to different standards than does the rest of the automotive world, substituting commonly available American oils may not be in a Euro-car owner's best interest long term. There'll be a further reduction of ZDDP in the next generation motor oils in three years for American, Japanese, and Korean engines. I guess BMW, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. reason the patrician class capable of entry into Euro-car automotive exclusivity can likewise afford the more frequent emission system component replacements.
  • bigrobnhbigrobnh Member Posts: 114
    The benz dealer I go to uses Mobil-1 synthetic. Is that American or one of these pricey Europeans?

    BigRob.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Guys, thanks for all of your reponses. The car is at the dealer now. I will be very ticked off if they tell me I need to pay for all of it. I don't mind paying some of it. As I said, the last time I had a catalytic converter problem, it was with my 1977 Buick. With 14 cars/trucks since 1978, this is the second car with this issue. The problem started with a HUM when I was accelerating from 50-60mph in the left lane. Now it apears that increased exhaust gas flow was being slowed down in the converter, causing the hum.

    Your explaination with European spec oil does not explain why the car has issue with Mobil 1. Are you saying anyone using this oil will have catalytic convertor problem? Since new,when it was serviced at the dealer they used Mobile 1, I have changed the oil myself with Mobil 1 and have kept my receipt. The engine also has a cold start up tick tick noise. Is it the lifter noise? What is your thought on that. When the engine warms up, it stops.

    What about the theory that Mercedes could have had a convertor supplier problem? material batch problem from tier 2 suppliers? or processesing problem at the supplier?

    I am still not sure giving up my truely flawless 1996 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 93K miles for this MB was a good idea. This MB is a great highway cruiser. With some 500 Ibs less weight, the Camry felt slightly light at 75-80, but ran flawlessly. The only dealer maiantenance was a $150 timing belt. In 10 years, that was IT. It also used any
    on-sale 5W-30 motor oil, and never complained.

    Joe
  • revrasrevras Member Posts: 63
    I just took delivery on a 2007 e350 and have noticed that the heated seats do not really heat much at all, on the highest heat setting it is barely warm. I previously had a 2005 e class which would roast you if you so desired. Has anyone else experienced this situation? Could this be a bad fuse etc or has their been a change in the whole mechanism?
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