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Anyone have any ideas as to the cause and fix. Hate to take it to the dealer who will charge me an arm and a leg just to identify the problem and then probably recommend replacing the entire seat!
1. Install a 1200CCA gel cell.
2. Install a "battery buddy" ...insures no more battery problems (..google it ..to find ..piece of cake to install).
The clicking ...wacked battery ..your electronics will suffer ...resets, etc.
Sincerely
As message 830 said, I have resetting problems. The ABS/BAS lights are on and the radio says CODE. I think I need to take it back to the dealer to reset things. I hate this about the car. Why do I have to reset anything if I am replacing a dead battery. Can they add something to programming that recognizes a weak crank as a result of a weak/dead battery. I do not have all the owner manual stuff that shows the radio code. Leave it to Germans to complicate simple tasks. It is odd, I thought may be I loose the clock, trip odometer, and radio station settings. Clock and trip odometers kept their settings and ABS light is on!!
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
This is not something you want to mess around with, though, and you should have the problem verified asap. If you lose the engine in that car, it is essentially totalled, as a rebuild will cost you $15,000.
alternators, wiring harness and such....resulting in
under hood fires, serious damage and great, great expense.
If my '93 500 SL engine temperature ever spiked that high,
I would definitely have an expert check the engine cooling and exhaust systems.
A more scientific method is to temporarily install an analog (direct pressure) gauge that is not electrical and see how it reads while you are driving. That would tell if if something is amiss in the engine.
IMO, 180 degrees temperatures are fine, ( I assume we are talking FARENHEIT here) because your cooling system is operating under pressure, which means that the boiling point of the coolant is raised....I think one degree of boiling point for every 2 degrees of pressure in the radiator cap. Engines like to run hot for best thermal efficiency and modern cars are actually running 225 degrees at certain times...which is why many manufacturers don't put in "real" temp gauges anymore, but either give you a light or an "H" and "C" symbol. If you run too cold, your engine can sludge up....so you know, like Goldilocks....not too hot (above 225), not too cold (below 160), just right (180)....some folks running marine engines might be used to lower temperatures but those engines are run under quite different conditions than car engines.
Mercedes bought my car back under the lemon law, gave me a great deal on another new Mercedes (ML500). Had it for a year, so many nagging problems, couldn't wait to get rid of it.
Try BMW or Lexus.
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If the battery is four years old, my suggestion is to replace it. Mine went 5.5 years. It was a stretch and I was planning on replacing it before Winter. It went out before I had a chance to do it.
Joe
1. When a battery is dead, it's dead and won't give you any warning. That's why I always change my car's battery before its time
2. Call any MB dealer, give them your VIN # and they will give you the code. They will check a few things with you to make sure that you are the real car owner. It happened to me.
Good luck
Todays vehicles have thermostats around 195+ degrees for
emissions purposes.
I recently bought a 1999 E320 in the us that had gone 56k miles. First couple of months it drove fine. Recently, I slowed down in an expressway due to traffic and then tried to accelerate when I noticed that I had to give a lot of gas to accelerate and the engine speeed was also way too high. I drove for a while and then came to a stop at a gas station when I shifted to P (park) the car jolted front. I switched of the engine and started after a few minutes and the car drove fine. This had happened two times in the last 4 days. This used to be drive in east coast for the first 3 years and then in California for the 4 years.
Can someone please tell me the possible root-cause of this symtoms I had explained? What do you advice I do?
Is the transmission go bad?
Thank you very much in advance.
You mention you have both Lexus and M B. I have had Toyota Camrys and love them. Sold on long term reputation of Toyota. Assume the same from Lexus....
What about Mercedes? Seem a lot less expensive on the used side than a Lexus.
Looking at a $16,000 purchase, one of many. Like 4 Dr Sedans.
Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks,
Jeff
I've got my second E320 bought when they were approx. 2 to 2.5 years old. Since the only Lexus that fits me (6'3") is the LS, the used E320 is a LOT less money than a used LS. And the MB Starmark Certified warranty is pretty much the best in the business. No co-pay, etc. and I usually buy some extra time to make sure that the mileage/time coincide roughly around the same time.
Fred
It had a lot of surface marks, and a ton of pits on the front grill, pass. I am picky.
But, the car itself looks like the one to own. I love the LS 400, in white particularly. But a 1998 with 80K miles was on the Lexus lot for $18,000...doesn't make sense. I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less.
Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft.
THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?
I assume repairs are very costly, but I have a Import Parts place that is like a Napa for imports.
Jeff
My wife loves her Lexus RX330. Zero problems in 2+ years. I have an '01 Lexus IS300 w/ 52K miles for sale for $15,575, if you're interested. It's fun to drive but very cramped.
The engine has a noise at cold starts. It sounds like a lifter noise. When the engine warms up the sound goes away.
I checked the service record at the dealer before buying the car, it had its A and B service on time every time. I have changed the oil/filter myself and have used Mobile 1 0W-40 oil.
If it is lifter noise, does anyone know if MB will fix this at their expense. I know MB had a mess on its hand when people were going over 10-15K miles with regular oil with FSS. I change the oil every 7500 miles and do not trust even the modified 10K interval, but will stay with Mobile 1 for any future issues.
Thanks,
Joe
Dunno about M-B's willingness to comp goodwill repair work out of warranty, but that initial clatter might merely be timing chain noise through the plastic guides until the auto-tensioner pumps up with full oil pressure after a cold start. Might have an independent M-B tech give a listen and render an opinion. Then go from there. I have no issues about Mobil 1, but for an experiment, given what you related, I would try one oil change to Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic German Formula 0W-30. While nominally a 30 weight once warmed to operating temperature, it's a high 30 nudging hard at 40 according to used oil analysis reports archived at BobIsTheOilGuy.com. The Castrol is formulated to meet or exceed M-B's 229.1, 229.3, and 229.5 oil spec advisories.
Anybody else heard about this?
Need info from anybody who has recently bought an MB extended warranty from a dealer. MB did not offer this until recently unless it was puchased at the time the car was bought. Heard that this can now be done at a later time.
Any help appreciated.
I had a 92 325i with an in-line 2.5 engine that had to use 10W40 winter and 20W50 in summer.
Joe
You wrote, "I would rather have the silver E 320 at 1999 or so for less. Anything that I need to watch for as far as normal repairs in the first 100,000 miles? The salesperson always says nothing, but my Midas guy says pads and Rotors up front cost $600 and go quickly...due to the pads being too hard and the rotors too soft. THanks...anything else I should watch for on this vehicle?"
I purchased a '99 E-320 4Matic Wagon with 56k miles and have been very happy overall with it as it approaches the 100k mark. Beautiful driving and handling characteristics, solid, safe, perfect for the wife/kid.
Repair experiences: The front brake pads lasted 32k miles between replacements which I didn't feel was too bad. We did have to spring for a catalytic converter at 93k but most manufacturers don't make them to last past 80-100k so I'm comfortable with that as well. Got 40k miles on the stock Continental tires. I was disappointed when the sun roof stopped sliding past about 3 inches at 82k miles and will opt to fix that after the rainy season. Replaced a brake switch and a smattering of bulbs. But overall, nothing really serious to complain about so I'm happy.
From what I've read (including Consumer Reports), you may do better to stick to the '99 or earlier models for a used E-320. Mercedes is working feverishly to repair their tarnished reputation for way too many electrical problems so I would wait till 2008 if I was in the market for a new one. Good Luck!
John
Took car to MB dealer. Usual and totally expected response. Customer knows nothing-never heard of this problem before-probably condensation. MB did a software update on oil pressure monitor. Maybe clue. Does MB control oil pressure with computer? If so, this could be explanation-upon startup oil pressure sometimes too high over oiling pistons resulting in blue smoke. Anyone know anything about how MB controls oil pressure in new 3.5 engine? Would make sense though I have never heard of this before.
If it keeps it up, before warranty expires I will wave magic wand over the MB, sprinkle some foo-foo dust on it and turn it into a Lexus. That will fix the problem!
Drove an E 320 yesterday, 1999, perfect. Started it up and the engine had a tick, tick, tick. I mentioned it, guy said it would stop when it warmed up. I knew he was full of crap, but thought I would drive it for the heck of it.
I thought about a head problem, and they said it was a head casket, leaked, or let water into the engine, so they were actually going to push it out wholesale and would not sell it.
Still waiting. E 320 is 30% cheaper than a LS 400 of same year. I know why, I just like the price and E 320 look better.
The climate control for this car never work.
Outside temp 65 degrees
Cabin temp 70 degrees
I turned the tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, cold comes out the vents.
and
Outside temp 78 degrees
Cabin temp 85 degrees
I turned tempurature knob to 76 degrees, then pushed Auto button, Hot air comes out the vents. Drove around for 30 minutes, Air condition never kick in.
I have proved this to Mercedes dealership, and they said the car is at factory specification.
TBN
I jacked up the car tonight and with a rag held on to both catalytic convertors one at a time while engine was running.
I did feel some rattles inside passenger side convertor. All brackets and hangers were tight.
Are the baffles inside the convertor breaking up? The engine runs fine, no check engine light, and the gas mileage still good.
Has anyone had this issue? Does MB have any warranty on convertors? My last car with a bad catalytic convertor was my 1977 Buick Skylark back in 1983.
I use 92-93 octane gas only, and the engine has never misfired or backfired.
Thanks,
Joe
BigRob.
Your explaination with European spec oil does not explain why the car has issue with Mobil 1. Are you saying anyone using this oil will have catalytic convertor problem? Since new,when it was serviced at the dealer they used Mobile 1, I have changed the oil myself with Mobil 1 and have kept my receipt. The engine also has a cold start up tick tick noise. Is it the lifter noise? What is your thought on that. When the engine warms up, it stops.
What about the theory that Mercedes could have had a convertor supplier problem? material batch problem from tier 2 suppliers? or processesing problem at the supplier?
I am still not sure giving up my truely flawless 1996 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 93K miles for this MB was a good idea. This MB is a great highway cruiser. With some 500 Ibs less weight, the Camry felt slightly light at 75-80, but ran flawlessly. The only dealer maiantenance was a $150 timing belt. In 10 years, that was IT. It also used any
on-sale 5W-30 motor oil, and never complained.
Joe