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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    My mechanic says he always has to replace the front rotors on E-320s but not on other makes. Why is this. My wife Lexus RX brake replacement was much cheaper than on the E-320. Why isn't there a warning light to tell when the brakes are worn to the extent of pad replacement?

    For 6 years I've enjoyed driving the E-320 and had relatively few problems, however, my wife's RX has had zero problems in the 3 years we've had it. After reading the posts here, I think I'll go for a Lexus ES or GS next time even though I prefer the E-320. Reliability/quality build trumps a slight advantage in handling.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Most modern Mercedes (and many other cars) require throwing away the rotors if they have any marking or warping.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    One of the reasons that the brakes on MB's are so good is that both the pads and rotors are intentionally a little softer than on other makes. This allows the pads and rotors to wear a little more and keeps the rotor temperature (under severe use) from getting so hot that it warps the rotors. The extra wear on the rotors leaves them too thin to be lathe turned for re-use. That is why almost all MB's with OEM pads and rotors have lots of brake dust on the wheels.

    I switched to PBM pads and rotors over a year ago, on my 2001 E320, and not only do they work as well in non-racing situations or on non-mountainous roads, they generate almost NO brake dust. I only have to clean the wheels every 3-4 months, not days as with the OEM parts. Another benefit is that the pads and rotors cost about 40% less than the OEM parts. :D
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Just bought a pre-owned 2003 E320 (out of warranty) and I have a bunch of questions as I fix up this vehicle. It's in good shape but little things need to be fixed.
    My first issue is the switch for the moonroof. It works fine but the gray plastic switch cover is missing. I have to use the black plastic skeleton to move the roof. I was told the switch cover cannot be purchased separately and that the entire roof unit needs to be replaced for about $350. All this for a 50 cent plastic switch cover about 1.5" square.
    Any suggestions on obtaining just the switch cover.
    Also, I heard there is a TSB for some front bolts that may need tightening. Anyone have any info on that.
    I will have more questions as I go along and appreciate your help.
    Thanks
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    Looking at BMW 5 series,GS and the MB E series for a used,under 40k miles 02-04 car.Wife has a RX330 and although not perfect wants to keep it so I would prefer to by something with a different badge then Lexus and like the look of the MB the best si I sense I am ready to roll the dice.
    Question is,after reading all three manufactures threads on here the MB E class seems to have most complaints.While on Ebay surfing( there is one guy in Phoenix who seems to have several) I see several MB factory Buybacks that have been repaired by factory for everything from Battery(?) to SRS,Brake and various Eletric problems.Has anyone ever gone that route and with all I have read here would you think there is even mre risk of a lemon.
    thanks in advance
  • bottomsuppbottomsupp Member Posts: 11
    Telephone:

    Aurora Auto Wrecking Inc

    9217 Aurora Ave N
    Seattle, WA 98103
    (206) 524-8700

    They are the number one place in NW to get parts. Cost are very good.Not like east coast... but very good. Would help if you had some type of part number... if not they will still help you. GOOD LUCK!
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Bottomsup
    I assume you were responding to my message about the switch. I will give them a try. I am in the Northeast but perhaps they would mail the part to me.
    Thanks
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Is there a way to remove the headlight cover (or to access the interior of the headlight assembly) to clean the lenses? I noticed the lenses have spots on them either from leakage or condensation.
    Also, I too have a radio issue. It starts getting static and it gets louder until the radio cuts out and I get a message "Error cannot establish audio connection". It happens sporadically. Any advice is appreciated.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Latest issue of the MB Star magazine covers this subject. The article stated that ONLY MB coolant is to be used because of the complexity of the differant components in the system.Also do not use "works with any system" type of coolant.

    If you want to keep on top of the latest info recommend that it is a good idea to join MBCA. Only $45 per year.
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Found out I cannot access the internal lenses. I also found that the radio problem cured itself. So, as it appears that no one is reading this forum anyway, who gives a damn anyway?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Well, I dunno if no one is reading this conversation, but it looks like no one is here who can help, at least not so far. Try asking in our Got a Quick Technical Question? discussion. The folks hanging out there are pretty sharp.

    Good luck - post back and let us know!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I left a message asking if anyone knew how to do this.... No one replied and I figured it out. Mercedes has put two plastic access pieces; one on each side. They are held shut with two plastic screws on each side.

    Raise the car using a floor jack, WEAR safety glasses, as you open the doors, dust/dirt drop down. Use a flash light locating the back cover of fog light housing. Remove the black cover. The bulb is held in place the same way the headlight bulbs are.

    Mercedes is using a very backwards way of securing the bulbs to housing. What is wrong with very air tight socket type bulb holders that every one else is using. The fog light assembly has several unnecessary pieces to it.

    I am glad I didn't need to remove the large underbody black cover for this. My next project is to replace the coolant. For that, I bet I need to remove the large cover.

    I already made a small cut out in the OTHER underbody cover to access the oil drain plug.

    Joe
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for the info - it's bound to help someone sooner or later! :)
  • leroywoodsleroywoods Member Posts: 4
    I bought certified pre owned 1999 E 320 with 48k miles in in 2005. Dealer replaced front rotors as part of certified pre owned preparation. Had to replace both rear window regulators. One covered by extended warranty, one not. Also had crankcase balance failure, dealer had tsb/recall in system, covered by warranty. Replaced all spark plugs at my expense to have it run like it is supposed to at a cost of $600.00. Have 72 k miles on it now. Replaced OE tires with irelli P 6 tires. Performance and handling are excellent,like a new car. Get the warranty
  • leroywoodsleroywoods Member Posts: 4
    I bought certified pre owned 1999 E 320 with 48k miles in in 2005. Dealer replaced front rotors as part of certified pre owned preparation. Had to replace both rear window regulators. One covered by extended warranty, one not. Also had crankcase balance failure, dealer had tsb/recall in system, covered by warranty. Replaced all spark plugs at my expense to have it run like it is supposed to at a cost of $600.00. My email(s) to dealer to share cost of plugs since failure caused spark plugs to be fouled were never acknowledged. Have 72 k miles on it now. Replaced OE tires with Pirelli P 6 tires. Performance and handling are excellent,like a new car. Get the warranty
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    I'm on my second Starmark Certified E320 and would recommend buying a used Mercedes ONLY with the Starmark warranty and buy some extra time so you get the full benefit of the 100K miles based on your miles/year. Both of mine have required expensive repairs in the 70K-90K range and the Starmark warranty has covered nearly everything. One exception is that a catalytic converter that failed at 84K was NOT covered since they claim they only cover that up to 80K miles.. I always thought all emission equipment was covered to 100K miles by Federal law.

    Why wasn't your second window regulator covered? Had you gone over the time limit on the warranty?

    I've also had great luck with Yokohama tires..
  • scottinkyscottinky Member Posts: 194
    one of my local upscale used dealers has a beautiful E320 wagon for sale. Loaded up!
    Sat., Nav those vented seats. Car has 42K on it, still under factory warranty. I currently
    have an 03 Nissan Pathfinder, which has no warranty left, and has been a reliable
    SUV, although somewhat expensive for regular maintenace (brakes, belts, etc..)
    am I asking for trouble to consider such a trade? Doing all this reading on these boards
    scares the hell out of me.
  • scottinkyscottinky Member Posts: 194
    i went and looked at this car sat. nice ride, kinda beat up. the salesman tells me
    he has a 4matic in tectite coming this week. It's at the local MB dealer getting brakes
    and serviced, 42K miles, for 31K. Might go look at it friday. Doesn't anyone visit
    this board?
  • bottomsuppbottomsupp Member Posts: 11
    If it was the same dealer who gave you a line on previous vehicle… be careful. Tire pressure may have been at 25/27lbs for smoother ride... (run @ 36psi for max fuel mileage).

    Possibly agree on 4matic… IF dealer pays for the FULL cost on the 7year/100,000 mile balance on MB star-warranty! Be sure the dealer doesn’t sock you with “this fee-that fee”…

    Ask to look at previous title... AND run title search...

    MB's are more than fun... but you need to do your homework...
  • scottinkyscottinky Member Posts: 194
    offers their own 7/100 with indy MB mechanics for 2K. they sell a lot of high end
    autos. I will definitely call the MB dealer with teh VIN and get the car's history.
  • e320kinge320king Member Posts: 1
    The 6 + 1 Compact Disc in my car shut down with no warning. The computer does not indicate any malfunction and of course, the book does not give a clue of what is wrong. Have anyone experienced this problem. If this is a chronic problem, why Mercedes Benz does recall it?
  • benzlovabenzlova Member Posts: 1
    e320king, During this past winter my system had the same problem. My system was fine after I warmed the car first and drove it. Once I turned it off for a minute and started it back up without warning it would shut off when I got on the road. I took it to the dealership and they replaced it without any hesitation.
  • leroywoodsleroywoods Member Posts: 4
    My 1999 E320 had had similar issue two or three times in last year. Try removing and checking in trunk CD changer to make sure CDs are loaded properly, etc. Sometimes hitting a jarring bump in road will cause this miscue. I tried CD cleaner disc just to see if that helped.
    Usually works after you put cartridge back in and close unit up properly.
  • leroywoodsleroywoods Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice on the Starmark warranty and Yokohama tires information.
    The second window regulator failed two weeks after the warranty limit expired.
  • mario19mario19 Member Posts: 1
    hello guys, i Have been through all this pages, and the more I read the more confused I get. Just bought a E 430 a week ago, and I am so upset. Yesterday the car shut off while I was on a red light, without a warning or nothing. I tried to start it I couldn't, than after some time the car did start, but I had the "Check engine" on. I noticed a bit of vibrating on the car, while on "P" gear. The next morning the car started normally, but the RPM while the car is on "P" gear, is very high, 10-15 Rpm. I have no clue wat this is, the car has 41k miles on it. Not sure if its a battery problem, or a alternator problem. Anyone had the same issue with a E-Class?
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    To begin with there is no P gear. P is Park...no gears involved. Next--- it is normal for a higher RPM when the car is started cold. This is to get the car warm so that emmissions will be lower. Car should return to normal low RPM within a minute or so after starting.
  • richarddubowricharddubow Member Posts: 1
    recently bought e350 wagon - they seem very very noisy have had the same problem on my 2004 e500. the dealer has tried changing blades and super clening the window surface. anyone have the same problem and a fix?
  • los292los292 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 e320 with 52,000 miles on it i have experienced at times when i hit the break ( not necesarily hard ) when i m going anywhere from very slow 10 miles and hour to sometimes slowing down coming up to a traffic light 30 miles and hour or so ) the car lurching foward very quickly has the sensation of slamming the breaks and maybe the abs locking up it happened about a year ago more than once so i got it looked at and the mb dealer said it had something to do with the rear tranny memory to the anti lock breaks something like that they fixed it several hundred $$ later .. a few months after that it happened again i brought it back and they couldn't find anything wrong with it didn't happen when they tested it again this happens very infrequently and it it not when i am necessarily going fast or on slippery pavement any thoughts ? pete
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I just changed the anti freeze in my 2001 E430 with 90K miles. The MB coolant has such a faint pink color to it, it is hard to see in the expansion tank where the level is.

    Does any one really think that the engine/gaskets will be damaged if the system is completely is flushed out of MB coolant, and latest version of Prestone coolant is used?

    I have a very tough time believing that every car maker out there must have their own coolant. The cost difference is like $12 a gallon. The money is not the issue, I don't care for the MB's clear color.

    Joe
  • pfentonpfenton Member Posts: 16
    I have owned three MB vehicles over the years and I was informed never to use the regular antifreeze as it doesn't meet MB specs and contain the necessary anti-corrosives and
    ph neutrality that MB coolant does......Is this true? I have no idea, but I don't care to take the risk! Good luck!
  • heywood1heywood1 Member Posts: 851
    I just inherited my mother's '92 300E. A really nice--and very gently used--car with only 68,000 miles.

    I've always been a Mercedes fan-- especially back when these cars were built to a standard, rather than to a price.

    But can anyone offer suggestions for upgrading the radio and the headlights for a pre-facelifted W124? (The headlights are dim, and the radio has poor sound, lousy ergonomics, and no CD player).

    I would appreciate any recommendations for aftermarket products and/or potential replacement pitfalls.

    PS: Does anyone read this forum? Seriously, there are still tens of thousands of these cars on the road....
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    The crappy plastic cupholder assembly in my center console is not working on my 2003 E320. I was able to remove it but hate to pay the outrageous cost that the dealer charges for a new one. Are there any sellers of Mercedes parts for this kind of item? The MB parts places I found on the net don't carry this kind of item. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • heywood1heywood1 Member Posts: 851
    Have you tried performanceproducts4benz .com?
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Heywood: Thanks. That site sell primarily accessories, not replacement parts.
  • heywood1heywood1 Member Posts: 851
    Performanceproducts4benz sells replacement parts and accessories, depending upon model. Also, MBCA members receive a discount. Full disclosure: I do not belong to MBCA.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Back in June you posted that you liked Yoko tires. Am in the market for my 2005 CDI.What type of tire did you refer to? Need an all season tire. If anyone else has a recommendation would appreciate the input.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    How about trying a few local junk (er, recycling) yards..

    Oh, sorry, MB's don't wear out, do they...!! But there must be one or two someplace that had accidents!!!

    :):):)
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    My 03 E320 was giving me a message that my oil level was too high. It occurred whenvever I was driving at highway speeds. My local MB mechanic replaced the sensor because he was convinced that it wasn't overfilled. The new sensor did the same thing, so we let out about a half quart of oil but the message persists. It says I need to reduce the oil level. Seems like it's the sensor but you would think the new sensor would not be doing this. Any thoughts?
  • pfentonpfenton Member Posts: 16
    Yes, it's possible for a new sensor to give a false reading high or low, either way and the ECU can even fail to record data and on rare occassion send faulty codes. Perhaps the "black box" data in the computer can see if the engine ever red-lined.......Good luck!
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    Thanks. Out of curiosity, what does redlining have to do with the sensor saying that I have too much oil?
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    My 03 E320 is registering a malfunction message due to the lack of connection of the Tele-Aid system. I do not have that enabled. Is there a way to permanently have that message go away?
    (As you can tell, I've had a number of issues with this car. A Chevy would have been more trouble free)
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    "...A Chevy would have been more trouble free ". When I was debating whether to buy a 03-04 or 00-02 E-Class, The MB service adviser indirectly said to go with 00-02. The 2003 E-class has had way too many nagging issues. In my mind, it is one of the most beautiful four door sedans out there....but it stop right there. Pretty to look at, but to stay away from and look at it from a distance.

    My 2001 E430 with 91K miles has been very decent for 18 months that I have owned it.

    Joe
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Purposely did not buy a 2003 but did buy a 2005 (CDI). It is loaded with about every option and have had no problems.
  • mikermiker Member Posts: 15
    I'm about to lease a e350 sport package however I'm hearing that the suspension is horrible and people are destroying rims 24/7. I'm also hearing that the breaks on this model make all types of noise.. any insight on this I know the 08 model is kinda new with the new sports suspension car looks great but I don't need a blow-out on my way to work... talk to me....
  • arniegreenarniegreen Member Posts: 1
    SERVICE C INDICATOR CAME ON MY CAR . IT IS 1 YEAR OLD WITH 4000 MILES. HOW DO I GET THE SERVICE C INDICATOR TO CLEAR WITHOUT GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    It depends on where you live. If you live in an area with good roads, you're probably ok with the sports suspension. I would avoid it like the plague in an area with potholes etc. like the northeast. As for brakes, I haven't heard that but I bet the service dept. has a fix if it's just squeaks.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Have the brakes that you are referring to. The only noise is ocassionally on start up when the pump comes on for approx. 4-5 seconds. Drive the car in question to see if this is problem.
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    I have an 03 E320 and put on Dunlop Signature Sports, HR rated all season. Thus far, they seem to have good grip and wet traction. Snow hasn't fallen yet however. They are pretty reasonably priced at Tire Rack.
  • pfentonpfenton Member Posts: 16
    My reference to red-lining was not literal.....I was referring to an engine being overloaded or pushed past its power peak by any number of causes including
    improper oil levels........BTW...If oil level is too high and it's being whipped by
    the crankshaft, it could result in airated oil in the lifters and possible damage
    to the engine.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    If you lease a new E350 for 3 years and 45K miles, how much should you budget for scheduled maintenance, tires, brakes and other wear items for that time and mileage?
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