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Comments
As for the hauling you did, having such a big, strong car is nice isn't it? All that style, space, and power, yet you don't have to drive the dime a dozen Tahoe or Expedition like everyone else...and you can even tow almost as much, or more, than them if the car is equipped properly.
When these cars have the full tow package from the factory, including a mechanical (vs. electronic) cooling fan, stiffer supension, and other tow bits like lower rear gears, they're actually rated to tow 7000 pounds. It's less if they're not tow pack cars (most aren't), but all can still tow.
Like you mentioned, having your mechanic do a once over would be the best idea.
So, have it checked out, and if you end up buying it, drive it for a while, then make sure to check it out again and continually just to make sure there are no leaks, etc...basically like any used car.
Thanks for your comments and suggestions. The KBB for the '94 Fleetwood (Private Party Value) is $6,420 for Excellent condition and the Suggested Retail Value for Excellent condition is $8,340. The private sellers want $7,000. If my mechanic gives me a positive report on the car and condition of the drive train, ball joints, etc., I will probably give them the 7K. I do wonder about the distinction between "Excellent" and "Good" condition and may offer $6,500 depending on the mechanic's report. :confuse:
The Real-World Trade-In Values forum is currently undergoing a database update so I can't post right now, but I will as soon as I can and let you know what they think. Thanks again.
A3D
As for the Excellent vs. Good rating, think of it this way: I just bought ANOTHER Fleetwood ( :shades: ), this time a '95 model with 117k miles on it. Obviously has been garaged, the paint is beautiful and not a single molding or emblem is faded, plus it drives very tight and doesn't feel anywhere near having over 100k miles on it. So, technically, it would be "Excellent" in my book, except there's a few minor things like the kick panel under the steering wheel needs re-attached, there's a small scrape on the underside edge of the front bumper, and there's 2 small wear marks on the driver's seat leather--so, in essence, it honestly falls under the "Good" category.
If everything is like new and you won't have to touch a thing from the start, that's "Excellent". But if it's a lot like that, but has various little things like wear marks on the seat and a loose trim piece here of there, then it's probably "Good".
BTW...mine was advertised for $4995 cash at a used car dealer near where I live (was a trade-in at a new car dealer down the road, then got bought by this smaller used car place). Edmunds said $5100 dealer retail, but since I knew it needed a few minor things, I offered $4500 cash and got it--a great deal, considering how nice a car it is.
But, yeah, have your mechanic check it out and even if there's one or two minor things that may need attention sometime, go for it--and the $6500 would be a great price to offer, even having just seen the pics and knowing the mileage on my part. Good luck
Oh, here's a couple pics of my new one...
Doing a great job keeping the '93 Fleetwood and the '92 Roadmaster company :shades:
Thanks for your advice and comments.
A3D
Great color combo and definately one of the easiest to keep clean
33T Top Color-Light, Driftwood Metallic
33U Exterior Color-Primary, Light Driftwood Metallic
52I Interior Trim, Lt Neutral (1)
The only one I couldn't decode was a listing "YM1"...can anyone help me with that one?
Although the rest of the interior is great and in keeping with a 32K mile auto, the leather on the front seat driver side shows more wear. Suggest a leather cleaner/restorer product?
Thanks for your input.
A3D
But yours really does sound like it was maintained properly. As for the leather, I need to do a bit of an experiment with mine too, as the Lt. Neutral color allows some dirt to show (from the old owner's use) and there's also a tiny slit and a wear mark on the driver's side. I tried my Lexol leather cleaner quickly, but it doesn't seem effective enough to clean like I need it to, so I'm looking for something else myself right now. As for the two wear spots, I think I'm going to order a custom-color leather repair kit from the net, just not sure when.
Not bad, and really is less noticeable in person unless you're looking for it. I just plan on getting some kind of leather repair kit like the following, to fix the small slit and also the wear mark where the leather's top finish has worn.
Leather Magic.com
Leather Repair Kits.com
It's all still soft and supple, and in terrific shape everywhere else--so once I get these marks fixed and the rest cleaned, it should be good as new.
But there is also a listing for "33U=Light Mesa Brown" on the following page: http://www.c2e.info/rpocodes/MODERNGMRPO.html
I also have the YL1 code on my sticker: "YL1 Trim Override, Upholstery, Leather/Vinyl". But the "YM1" remains a mystery. :confuse:
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb.html#spid
Here's a pic of my sticker:
http://photobucket.com/albums/e101/A3D06/?action=view¤t=fwb_rpos.jpg
Looks like a pretty nicely optioned car...options including Keyless Entry, Auto Dimming Rearview mirror, Locking fuel filler door, Theft Deterrent System, Brougham package, and the typical "soft" ride springs that came standard on all of them (as compared to the firmer FE2 suspension on Tow Pack. cars).
Sounds very nice
"What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet".
We bought the Fleetwood and I have learned of the vagaries of GM/Cadillac RPO codes. Good to know that. Thanks for all of your responses and help. I'm a graphic designer, webmaster and member of many forums, user groups, newsletters, etc. over the last nine years and I know a solid online resource when I see it.
This forum has the dedicated and knowledgeable enthusiasts that are the hallmark of all truely great online resources. I look forward to learning more about these great automobiles and this community you all have created.
A3D
"Does anyone have an experience where your radio stopped working and the antenna didn't go up? My mechanic said it could be the radio itself or some module in the antenna control...If I have to replace the radio, I'll get one with a CD player."
Everyone I asked told me that chances were high that I would need to replace the radio. So I found one with a CD player for $100 on the Internet and installed it today. The CD player works (my other radio didn't have one) and everything sounds great.
Mike
Car-Part.com
How can I replace it with (preferably) a Cadillac unit that includes a CD changer in the trunk from either a newer model Caddy or some after market unit that would be compatible?
A3D
Car-Part.com
Impossible to find non-chrome replacements. These rims must have been defective as OEM. Does anyone know where I can find aluminum alloy replacement rims?
Those were pretty rare cars, but I think the '99 models, at least, shared the same bolt pattern as a regular Deville. The '98s had the beefier suspension, and I think an extra lug on the wheels, so it might be even harder to find a set of those wheels.
But, like I said, go over to the Deville forum (this one is for the big, RWD Fleetwoods), and see what they say:
Cadillac Deville
A local mechanic told me to tilt the wheel all the way down. It started. I was told it was a short in the wires, but it's not! (After a year doing this short cut) I was able to turn the starter key and it was in the on position but the idiot lights never came on, could not turn the starter key completely to trigger the starter, and could not shift it out of park. After I attempt to repair the steering column I found out it was just the metal rod going from the ignition key to the ignition switch the came off (broke) from the key area. The rod has a develop a bend over the course of tilting the tilt wheel.
The car itself has 180,000 miles. But after observing how the Cadillac manufacturer design it, it no wonder they do that. All the mechanic had to do was unbend the rod.
I had contacted many Cadillac service dept. who said it was the ignition switch. GM had failed to make this part without a center support to keep this from happening.
A tilt steering wheel are always going to be adjusted!
Please do something about this or stop making tilt wheels!
I feel this is a GM overlooked problem that should be corrected! ARE THE ANY OTHER SECRETS OR HIDDEN UPCOMING PROBLEMS THAT THEY KNOW AND DON'T TELL?
Thanks anyway!
But (if you haven't already) contact the cadillac dealer and ask the service dept. for any recalls, etc. and you'll need to tell them your cars vin number. (worth a try)
Good Luck.
You mentioned about a high octane fuel. Yes, always on a V8. If you had just filled it with the high grade, give it a chance to reach from the fuel tank to the engine.
Please help, I need the sunroof weatherstripping that goes directly around the sunroof glass. Does anybody know where I can get it??????
I drive a 1991 Fleetwood Brougham. :confuse:
In the meantime, a GREAT place to find a light or any part is here:
http://www.car-part.com
It's a service that allows salvage yards nationwide to inventory and list their parts for sale, and you can find some great deals on hard to find parts.
it is an OEM system. any way to remove it.
Rob