Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Ford F-150 SUPERCREW
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
altho i can't entirely explain how limited slip works, it is beneficial in that clutch packs in the rearend help deliver power to the wheel that isn't slipping rather than just to the wheel that is spinning. and, yes, ford's limited slip and gm's posi traction are most likely very similar. i've had limited slip axles on a couple vehicles i've owned. limited slip does help in slippery conditions, especially when starting from a complete stop. however, in my experience, in a limited slip vehicle if you gas it too much it'll fishtail quicker than a vehicle without limited slip. so, there is some give and take.
Thanks to those folks out there who have answered my questions. More to come, please keep up the great answers. From what I read, the limited slip is definitely going to make the list because a 4X4 makes no sense where I'll be living.
RT
check your radiator at the cooling fins. If the cooling fins measure 1" and you paid for the class III tow group, you've got the wrong rad.Do not measure the tank (side) just the cooling fin area. Also, there might be a sticker with a part # on it on the side of the tank. If it reads XL3H A
you got the wrong one. Refer to f150online.com and go to the message board on the left. You can look in the threads engine or
supercrew...these are for all f150's from 99-01.I believe V8's only. All of Ford's print and internet info still list the larger rad. as what's incl. in the tow group. Unfortunately that's not what they're installing...
I want to help a friend out by towing his boat to a new ocean slip. I wanted the F150 because I think they have a notch in the bumper to put a 2" tow ball on the bumper. Does anyone know if this is still the case and if so what is the weight limit for the bumper bal moutn? I heard 5k lbs, but just want to double check. Would I better off renting the reg. bed F150? Thanks!
in addition to your radiator. That part number you quote does not ring a bell.
Anyone have comments?
One other thing. I'm getting ready to order a 2001 4X2 SCrew XLT. Can I get 17" rims and tires? The Kelley Blue Book list of options says yes after July of last year, but the dealer I talked with today doesn't think so.
Thanks gentlemen.
RT
go to ford.com and build a truck and see if you can specify 17 inchers...
I did just that and it forced me to upgrade to one of the special editions (Lariat, etc.). But, it is listed as an option on the 2WD XLT price sheets (option T55) for $275 retail.
Who knows for sure... Anyone ever contact the factory and ask them directly?
Thanks again.
RT
XL3Z-8500-DA is the 1.02" one row radiator
YL3Z-8005-GA is the 1.42" one row radiator
F75Z-8005-GB is the 2.20" two row radiator
Most guys on the F150 thread are having luck getting the 1.42" put in.
I'm still waiting to hear the final word from my service manager. He last told me he is waiting on a tech inquiry and to talk with the regional rep. Will post any results I have.
The radiator part # should be printed on a white tag attached to the side of your radiator.Mine has XL3H AB. This is also the part # for the 1.02" radiator.You don't even need the part #, just measure the cooling fin area. If it's 1" and you paid for the classIII tow group,you can bend over now...
Please post phone numbers or websites of makers/retailers that you have found to be useful.
Also, what products have you SCREW owners used for bedliners. It seems to me that a spray-on bedliner is a better way to go than a plastic insert. But I have a hard time getting over the fact that they require me to {gasp} sand down the factory paint in a brand new $30,000 truck in order for the spray-on liner to stick well.
www.glasstite.com
www.leer.com
on the leer site click on products then new products, there is a picture of a 2001 supercrew with cap on it.
deal without a ford plan. I have read a lot of good things about truck, besides radiator problems is there any other complaints?
Tires are a big influence. I have General Grabber AP tires on mine. I have seen a drop of as much as 3 MPG (on an Explorer 4WD) by changing from the original tires to a more aggressive tread (same tire size).
Yes, it does cost more for the initial price.
The RATED (I haven't had mine long enough to give you a real story on my gas mileage yet) MPG is no more than 2 MPG less than the 4.6.
I rarely, but occationally have heavy loads in the back of my truck/towing.
Higher resale with the bigger V8.
I weighed all these and came up with the choice to get the bigger engine. I would if I were you.
Well boys, I got my SCrew this past week and I love it. 2001 4x2 SCrew XLT 5.4l, Class III towing package, 3.55 limited slip, powere drivers seat, 6 disc CD, sliding rear window, bed liner and a bed extender for $23,000 on the X-plan. I'm happy. Here is my only concern:
The damn thing has a cheap dark grey plastic grille. I've been looking at billet aftermarket grilles, or maybe calling the parts department and seeing what a honeycomb would cost.
Anyone out there using billet products? Reccomendations?
RT
I saw on the 150online site that theres a way to buy into the xplan for $40. How do the determine the cost and was your 23k before taxes and reg. I'm looking for a xlt/4x4/5.4/ls/moon/tow/power-heated 60/40 seats/skid/bedxtend/ going e/ stock tires and will replace with a decend set.
If you take the MSRP times .875 that will put you real close to X-plan price. X-plan usually works out to dealer invoice less $100-300, depending on price of vehicle. Plus, you are eligible for any factory incentives such as rebates and low financing. The price on x-plan is predetermined and set by Ford, dealer can't screw with you.
http://www.snugtop.com/p_xtr.htm
I pull a two horse trailer from time to time, and even with two horses in the trailer, this truck has the power to move along without a problem, even in hills.
I have 13,000 miles on it now and have had no problems with the drive train other than an occasional harsh shift from 1st to 2nd gear when it is cold.
I live in northern Ohio and was able to see this truck through the winter with no problems.
Parman, I would recommend the 4wd without a doubt. Even with the cab weight being moved back a bit from the conventional cab, the traction got a little squirly on slush without the 4wd. ( I think the Wrangler tires suck when it comes to wet and slushy pavement, but that's the tires and not the truck. at least they're not Firestone)
I have taken a couple trips of 600-700 miles in it and begin to forget I'm driving a truck, with the full size back seatand the smooth ride.
We have three rather large dogs, and the fold down seats are wonderful for them. WARNING. If you are going to put dogs in the back seat and allow them to stick their noses out the partially open window be careful. I suggest opening the window to a point and locking it. My dog stepped on the switch and closed his nose in the power window. The placement of the switch on the top of the armrest makes this possible. (that's also a sound that scares the hell out of you when you are driving down the road)
Gas milage is about as I expected and as others have mentioned, about 14-17 mpg kind of regardless of where I drive. I have a tonneau cover also, which will add a 1 or 2 mpg over the open bed.
Now for the BUT.
This past week I had the first opportunity since the snow and ice, to get out a really get intimate with a wash job. When I washed the bottom of the truck off, I found that the majority of paint on the differential and cover is all but gone and a heavy layer of rust is already forming on these surfaces.
The chrome rear bumper is rusting around the cut out for the license plate and where the lights are mounted on it, The ends of the bumper are pitted and rusting through the chrome surface. The chrome on the wheel bolt caps is all rough and beginning to have pits in all the inside corners.
The undercoating on the frame is gone in almost all areas where welds and joints are located and beginning to rust also.
I am making an appointment for this truck to be checked out by the dealer as soon as I can, because I want this truck to last at least until the end of my 5 year lease.
I didn't see any other comments about rust or corrosion, and wouldn't have thought I would be experiencing it on a brand new truck myself.
I hope this information will help some other owners or potential owners with SCrews.
The X-Plan is the A-Plan price (on the invoice of every vehicle) plus 4%. Since the A-Plan is 3% below dealer invoice, then you would extrapolate the X-Plan being 1% over dealer invoice.
Sorry for the mix up on my reported paying price. I checked the contract to make sure I reported the right price this time: $27k even. Truck retailed for just a shade over $30k. $23 is what I paid after my trade-in, and reported to ya'll in error. Sorry boys! I was also able to grab 6.9% and $500 cash back (dealer pre-dated the sale for me to get the special rates). Not a bad deal overall.
Question for the group:
Has anyone here had any experience with Billet Grilles? I bought mine with a cheap dark grey platic job that makes the whole front-end look like [non-permissible content removed]. F150world.com has them for $80 delivered and says that it's easy to install. Anyone have the REAL story?
Also, what is the no-kiddingbest exhaust for an F-150 5.4l if you are mildly interested in a performance boost and a moderate interested in adding a little "throat" to the exhaust note?
Thanks, and again, sorry.
RT
Can someone tell me exactly how to determine if I have the correct radiator? I recall seeing that the radiator sizes were 1.02 vs. 1.42 inches or something like this. Where do I make this measurement? Is this the thickness of the radiator front to back or something else? Just looking at my radiator I don't think it is almost 1.5 inches thick.
RT
I was quoted $950 bumper-to-bumper, no deductible for 6 years 72K miles.
Anyone have any more experience here?
RT
- Mike
I hope that this helps.
I have a Screw that I got last June. Lariat,4x4,Moonroof,5.4L,towing,bed extender. I have about 23000 miles on it and haved averaged 16.2 mpg. (i have kept track of every fill up since day 1!)
This truck has been Great! No problems what so ever.
Controls the temperature of the
airflow inside the vehicle.
Mode selector control
Controls the direction of the airflow
to the inside of the vehicle.
The air conditioning compressor can operate in all modes except PANEL
and FLOOR. However, the air conditioning will only function if the
outside temperature is about 10°C (50°F) or higher.
Since the air conditioner removes considerable moisture from the air
during operation, it is normal if clear water drips on the ground under
the air conditioner drain while the system is working and even after you
have stopped the vehicle.
² MAX A/C-Uses recirculated air to cool the vehicle. MAX A/C is noisier
than A/C but more economical and will cool the inside of the vehicle
faster. Airflow will be from the instrument panel registers. This mode
can also be used to prevent undesirable odors from entering the
vehicle.
² A/C-Uses outside air to cool the vehicle. It is quieter than MAX A/C
but not as economical. Airflow will be from the instrument panel
registers.
² PANEL -Distributes outside air through the instrument panel registers.
However, the air will not be cooled below the outside temperature
because the air conditioning does not operate in this mode.
² OFF-Outside air is shut out and the fan will not operate. For short
periods of time only, use this mode to prevent undesirable odors from
entering the vehicle.
² PANEL and FLOOR-Distributes outside air through the instrument
panel registers and the floor ducts. Heating and air conditioning
capabilities are provided in this mode.
However, the air will not be cooled below the outside temperature
because the air conditioning does not operate in this mode
psktrucker - you stated to use the "panel" setting for fresh air with no a/c. I assume you're talking about the floor/panel setting? If so that does turn on the a/c (that was my original complaint). Do you have just a panel setting? It may be that there are different settings on different gen of screws. I found out that the expeditions have a vent setting in addition to the floor/panel setting that does exactly what I want (no a/c but fresh air).
I wrote the item #648 a few weeks ago regarding a bumper issue with my Screw. I took it in for the dealer to look at and while there was some discussion of the coverage on the warranty, they agreed to replace it. ( it is exposed to the elements, which is a little clause in the surface finish warranty). I also asked about the sizing of the radiator for the class III tow package, which I purchased. The response was a definite "I don't really know what size it is speced at." I have a core that is 1.02" thick.
After 2 weeks the bumper is still not in and they tell me that this may take a while because the majority of the bumpers manufactured go directly to the production of new vehicles, and they don't have much call for the after market needs on a current model year. Sounds like AS to me but I can wait.
They are also ordering a new horn for me. the low tone went bad and now the horn sounds like Herb the Lev Bug when he was in his depression.
Truck still runs great and all, I just don't want to be constantly having these odd things occurring.