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Nissan Quest 2004+: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    2004 Quest S should have rear disc brakes standard. Had the tires off mine yesterday to rotate, and noticed that the pads look about half life already. Dealer had replaced the rears at 49,000 miles when we bought the van used, and we've put only 7000 miles on since that.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    our 2005 Quest S is going to shop on Thursday because of Vibration on Steering while braking = Warped rotors... i noticed the vibration when it hit 2000 miles and now it has almost 2400 miles on the odo. Does anyone know why it warped so early? :confuse: sigh... i hope they will give us brand new rotors instead of resurface them....
  • bperkbperk Member Posts: 38
    All,
    As some of you may know (or just look at my posts) my Q has been plagued with rotor issues. Finally I said screw it, Im installing these performance rotors. All the quests have Disc's BTW. Up until this point my dealer has performed all work on my brakes for FREE (BTW, Lynnes Nissan West,NJ Great Svc Dept) which included ROTOR replacement twice. Alas, I dont see any point continuing with the OEM crap, so I went with the frozenrotors which essentially are warpless. For me its worth the $, as opposed to the agrivation of going to the dealer constantly. At some point after the 50K extended warranty im on my own anyway.

    dtownfb - I dont know the actual size of the rotors for the rear, but they are different to the front ones. You can look them up at www.frozenrotors.com.
    Interesting I did notice that the rear rotors said "Made in Italy" that they sent me. I did not take notice on the front ones.

    carzzz - They probably will cut them, which will essentially speed up the warping again because you have less metal now to dissipate the heat. Expect them to be warped within less miles than the first time.

    Take care. Be back soon.
  • nishonbarunishonbaru Member Posts: 39
    We did. Nissan forces you to use the BBB autoline. There decision was to give Nissan one more chance to repair the Q. If the problem did not occure within 30 days they would close the case with no recourse. Sometimes it will go 2 or 3 months w/o a problem. If the problem did occure within the 30 days they would re-arbitrait. (Re- Arbitrait! that should be an automatic you won the case and get a new car) A very unfair and one sided decision. Our next step was to go to the state arbitration. I found an atty that would take the case at no cost to me and sued for breach of warrenty. We settled out of court. Nissan Admits no guilt though. But I know they're guilty. :lemon:
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Thanks for the brake update. Our '04 does have an ever so slight steering wheel shake during high speed braking, but nothing pronounced or bothersome. I'll be watching the brake issue closely, and will go with the Frozen Rotors with pads when brake time comes. The wife does like this van ;) , so I'm willing to go the extra mile to keep it going by using the right parts. Keep us updated on the FrozenRotor performance.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi Folks, I have a 2005 Quest. Rotors felt like they warped @ 3000 miles. I say felt like because the symptoms were almost the same as warped rotors but not quite. I thought how could Nissan put such cheap crap on these vehicles. But then how could Nissan even design a rotor that warped even if they wanted it to warp @ 3000 miles. I did some research on this problem. I don't think its the rotors, its the installation of the rotors thats at fault. Lateral Runout. See my post #1427 and #1435 in this discussion. The rotors must be machined on the vehicle using a PRO CUT hub mounted rotor lathe. Not all dealers have this lathe. Go to the PRO CUT web site, look under AWARDS, Its the only fix Nissan and many other car makers will pay for on warranty service. If your dealer doesn't have this lathe you will bring the vehicle back in agaun and again. I hope this helps, check it out.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    did the "cut" fix the problem or make it warpped again earlier?
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Yes, the brakes have been fine for 10000 miles. I asked my dealer, Mories Nissan of Brooklyn Park, MN if they had the PRO CUT lathe. They said yes, it's all they use.It's a hub mounted lathe, much more accurate than caliper mounted. You MUST make sure this lathe is used on your Quest for the problems to be resolved. Note, I work as a parts guy for heavy equipment and have no $ interest in PRO CUT. As for $700.00 on frozenrotors, I think thats expensive overkill and they may feel like they warped if not installed correctly. You can get top of the line Napa rotors and pads for half the price of frozenrotors. The Quest is a minivan after all not a street racer or drifter. My last vehicle was a Windstar that I fried the rotors on several times coming down the Rocky Mountains. Smoked the rotors! They never warped. After they cooled down they were fine. They were midgrade Napa rotors, $55.00 per rotor.The problem lies in the installation of the rotors, it's a hit or miss issue, everthing has to line up perfectly or you will develop lateral runout.
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Thanks for the info, spoonieboy1, this gives us one more option to look at. While ProCut surely gives a superior lathing job, I'd be inclined to question design & fabrication of the rotor & hub if ProCut was the only option to true-ing up rotors. If the rotors were fine at the point of new and warped out on you in a few thousand miles, I'd be watching very close for the warpage to return no matter what method turning is used. From personal experience with other cars, I've never been a fan of turning rotors. At pad replacement time, if the pedal's not hopping, a set of new pads and no rotor turning is fine. If the pedal's hopping, then it's new rotors. At any rate, thanks again for the info and keep us posted on your turned rotor performance. By the way- Nice to hear from another Twin Citian. I bought our 04 Quest used from Feldman Imports in Bloomington, and have gotten warranty work done at Kline Nissan in Maplewood. So far, very happy with them.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    here is the update...

    Dealers: "Front rotors out of round disassemle and inspect brakes. Brakes slightly blue due to hard braking or riding brakes req's machining"

    they said the resurfacing is not covered under warantee in my case... what a shame...

    Also, just wondering how much you can turn on the steering wheel on the Quest? I could turn over 540 degree(more than 1.5 circle) to left from center position and but i could only turn exactly 540 degree to the right from center position(exactly 1.5 circle)...is this normal?
  • chuck0731chuck0731 Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone experienced the "Service Engine Soon" (AKA the malfunction indicator lamp or MIL) light up? My 2004 Quest has had the MIL warning on steadily since last night, but the owner's manual seems to minimize it. According to my manual a steady MIL means most likely the fuel cap is loose (a "Service Engine Soon" warning seems a bit extreme for such a minor event), but after tightening the cap I'm still getting the warning. Given that I've beaten a steady path to my service department over the almost two years I've had my Quest, I'm in no hurry to go there again, but how long should I wait (if I can wait at all) before taking it into the dealer if the MIL continues to stay lit? BTW, I haven't experienced the poor drivability or reduced fuel economy the manual warns about.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    To ease your mind, go to an auto parts store that reads codes, like Advance Auto parts. They can hook up the OBD II readeer to the van and read the codes and print it out for you. Post the code on here. Someone may be able to help you diagnose the problem.

    I had the "Service Engine Soon" light come on and the code was P0745 (Pressure control Solenoid). It turns out I had a loose wire. NO big deal.
  • vinhphucvinhphuc Member Posts: 44
    Hi,

    Just to let you know that I experienced similar "problem" some time ago. Since nothing seemed to be wrong with the van except the SES light being on, I didn't take it to the dealer. For about 2 weeks I just tried to tighten the gas cap when I filled up. The light didn't go out after the first few attempts but finally did (perhaps 3-4 times of opening and retightening the cap). If nothing else seems to be wrong with your van, don't worry about SES light. Just fiddle with your gas cap when you fill up, perhaps to help it fit in better with the grooves, and the light should evntually go out.
    Good luck,
    Phuc
  • garycoxgarycox Member Posts: 59
    I have a 2004 Nissan Quest with 29,000 miles on it. After the first few months of having it the breaks vibrated so I took it in and they turned the rotors. Now at 29,000 they have been vibrating again so I took it in and they said they not only needed to turn the rotors but replace the break pads!

    This is my first Nissan product but in all new vehicles that I've owned of other brands I've never once ever had to replace break pads before 50,000 and for that matter it's usually been much more than that. I live in a flat area, not mountains and I'm easy on the breaks.

    According to warranty documentation break rotors and pads are not convered under warranty except for the first 12,000 miles unless it is a defect.

    I would think needing break pads at 29.000 miles would be a defect? I'm told from the dealer this is normal for factory pads to last only 20 - 40 thousand miles?

    Is this true for Nissan, break pads do not last as long as in other vehicles? What have been your experiences in this matter?

    I'm thinking it is a defect in the system and this should be covered under warranty. I had to pay $350 to get the rotors turned and new pads which I'm going to ask Nissan to re-pay me under the terms of their warranty that it is a defect.

    ... Gary Cox - garycox@netten.net
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Gary, I'm gathering from this forum that brakes are an issue with this new generation of Quest. It's all a function of design and part specification. It's sounding like Nissan's rotor supplier is a bad one, and the pads just plain wear out too soon. Once you've run your course with warranties, if you like the van well enough to keep I'd look into aftermarket rotors and pads. One guy on the forum suggests frozenrotors.com, another suggests Napa, still another suggests having a dealer with ProLine brake lathe turn your rotors.
  • pantrupantru Member Posts: 14
    I have a 04 Quest with 25000 miles and have similar problem with the brake pads. I took for service and they mentioned I have to replace both front and rear brake pads along with resurfing as they are worn out 90%. I spoke to Nissan customer support and they mentioned they are not covered under warranty and it depends on how my driving is and all that crap. They said they cannot help.

    I have other vehicles and have never replace brake pads at this mileage. Now I have to spend more than $500 to replace brake pads and resurface rotors. This is my first Nissan and will never buy any again. Wish would have bought Toyota or Honda. Let me know if you are are able to get paid by Nissan.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    25000 miles is considered to be better than normal. Keep in mind that these van are really heavy (over 4000lb+) and the work the the rotors + pads are laborous. Fact is that it does NOT make too much difference if you get the sienna/ody and their pads are not much better (check their problem chat on brake). However, the rotors for the quest are very bad and they warped easily. Mine were warped @ only 2k miles when the car just broke in :surprise: ...
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi carzz, You are right about checking other minivan forums as well as car forums for what appears to be rotor warpage problems. All manufacturers are having these problems reported by their customers. IT"S NOT THE ROTORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My 2005 Quest had rotor problems @ 3000 miles also. The problem with the rotors is lateral runout. If the hubs ars not installed perfectly the rotors ride a little cockeyed and after a short while they develop high spots (lateral Runout)The rotors are not warped. The only fix for this would be to use a hub mounted brake lathe to machine the rotors on the vehicle at the factory at the time of installation. This would be a pain in the rear in the assembly process and slow production so the car makers have chosen to repair the rotors after the vehicle is purchased. Only a small percentage of vehicles will need this fix so the car maker figures why check all the vehicles for lateral runout on the rotors when they can have the dealers repair the few bad ones on warranty. Who ever heard of a new rotor warping at 2000 miles anyway? That just doesn't seem possible unless the rotors are made out of lead.Also even if the best new rotors are checked with a caliper a few will be rejected. Does this make sense???????????
  • plashenickplashenick Member Posts: 165
    SES could be many things, including gas cap, bad sensor or failer part. Some states will not pass the Inspection (NJ) if the light is on. My Taurus had it; $400 to diagnose and fix. one of my sensors had gone.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    After contacting Nissan Customer Service, the dealer were forced to replace both front rotors at NO CHARGE! :D
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Had our '04 with 56,000 miles in for some light warranty work yesterday. Bad weatherstrip (squeeking) on the driver's door, they're covering it and have it on order. Front splash pan had some of the fasteners fall out, causing it to hang down on one end. 4 new fasteners, free install, total bill 6 bucks. Oil filter shroud cracked at a weak point, they ordered a new one, 15 bucks (not warranty covered). I'm happy the weatherstrip is covered. Very happy with the dealer, Kline Nissan in Maplewood, Mn. :shades: Ursula the service writer is easy on the eyes, too. ;)
  • f1236089f1236089 Member Posts: 25
    Hi spoonieboy1

    I have a 2004 SL and currently has 26k on it. The brakes just started to have this exact problem. I talked to the dealer and they say it will need turn the rotor without even checking it. How do I go about to make the dealer or Nissan fix this problem? I mean, does Nissan know this problem (well, they do, but the question is would they admit it?) The dealer obviously doesn't help, they even denied there is extended warranty for 2004 Quest. :cry: I almost order an aftermarket rotor thinking I will just fix this myself until I found this site and your post. Please help.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi f1236089, I would call your dealer and ask if they use a Pro Cut hub mounted brake lathe. Don't mention that you have a Quest with brake problems. If they have this lathe make an appt to bring your Quest in. I would demand they machine your rotors on warranty. I would make a stink and get Nissan customer service involved if need be. Go to procutinternational.com click on awards and evaluations, click on Nissan TSB 04 066. This TSB is for Titan and Armada but the problem is the same problem the Quest has with the rotors. Lateral runout. You could call my dealer, Morries Nissan, Brooklyn Park, MN and ask about the Quest, Pro Cut Lathe and rotor problems if you need a straight answer. My rotors were machined @ 3000 miles on warranty and have been fine for 10000 miles. If your dealer does not have a hub mounted lathe I would call around to find a shop that does. The hub mounted lathe is the only warranty fix that Nissan will pay for but not all dealers have this machine.
  • rprossilrprossil Member Posts: 62
    I also have an '04 Quest and replaced the pads at around 26,000 miles. Our van is driven 90% in around town driving with lots of stop and go. I had them done by my mechanic of 10 years and he reminded me that these are 4 wheel discs with a proportioning system that gives much better brake performance than a lot of others on the market. For example, my in-laws have an '05 Pontiac Montana van and the brake pedal feels like a sponge with under 10K miles. Also, keep in mind that none of the brake pads last like they "used to" since asbestos is no longer used, the pads wear more quickly.
    As a comparison, I just bought an '03 Honda Element for myself with 4 wheel discs with 33K miles, and the dealer had replaced the front pads before it went onto the lot. The driving style has LOTS to do with brake wear. If you have a vehicle with rear drum brakes, they will go a lot longer, but you usually don't get the same level of performance - notice that performance cars always have as big as disc brakes as possible. Sorry you're unhappy , but better performance usually takes a little more than average maintenance, but 25K miles on these brakes isn't bad.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    Since my Quest's rotors were replaced, was this better than resurface the rotors with Procut? Or if the dealer installed the new one properly, is this better than "Procutting" it?
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    New is better than resurfacing, provided the new rotor is straight with its hub. Less potential for future warpage. Keep an eye on your pedal hop and keep us posted.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi carzz,I think if you can get the dealer to replace the rotors on warranty thats great but be advised that if the dealer doesn't install the new rotors correctly the new rotors may feel like they warped again due to lateral runout. The rotors don't actually warp but they develop high spots that leads to brake pedal judder. This vibration can develop as soon as 2000 miles. The CRUX of the problem is your hubs on front of your Quest were installed slightly off vertical so when the factory installed your rotors they don't ride perfectly vertical and the brake calipers allow the brake pads to ride slightly off hence it feels like your rotors warped at 2000 miles. Think about it, how the heck can you warp a rotor at 2000 miles on a new vehicle? The perfect fix would be to install the new rotors and then use a hub mounted rotor lathe. If your dealer did this, GREAT. If not expect judder to resurface shortly. This is a common problem with all of todays new vehicles, not just Nissan or the Quest. The only solution would be to machine all rotors on all new vehicles at the factory. It's much cheaper for car makers to do this after the fact just to the problem vehicles. Also the brake pads are fine on these vehicles. Drive gently, front pads, 30 to 40K, rears should be 10K more. Drive it hard, front pads. 20K to 30K. The fact is the rotors should never never feel as though they warped. Read this and think about it, I bet you a Windstar IM right. Hope this helps.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    Thanks for all the inputs! Now i hope the dealer did install the new set of rotors correctly.

    "how the heck can you warp a rotor at 2000 miles on a new vehicle?"
    This is what i was wondering about too. Because the rotors were not installed properly at the Mississippi Plant, they got overheated due to the "high spot". I found it's very irritating that the dealer said my driving habit caused this problem (2000 miles). My other cars were on original rotors at 70k+ and 80k+ miles. But oh well, they give me a new set! ;)
    I will keep my eyes on both the petal and steering! i will keep updating...
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Some one needs to explain to me how a piece of metal approx. an inch thick can develop a "high" spot without warping? why wouldn't you notice the shudder immediately instead of after 2000 miles if in fact the hubs are "slightly off vertical"?
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    I did not even do the testing until 2k miles! Who would put the hands off while braking? i would not... however, i did that because many people claim there is problem on the brake and i felt more familiar with the car when it was about 2k miles. The Steering vibration was very minimal and the movement was about 1 to 2mm or so
  • kaykatzkaykatz Member Posts: 2
    I set the heater to bi-level, shut off the engine, then restart it, the heater automatically goes to floor position. I have to set it to bi-level every time I get in the van and start it up. Sometimes the heater sets itself to come out of the dash only on start up. It's like the memory function isn't working. Any other heater adjustments I make remain as I left them. Can some one tell me if this is normal?
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    I don’t remember, but does it go off of “Auto” mode when you switch the air flow direction?

    I know that when my wife adjusts the fan speed it goes off of the “Auto” mode…and will stay that way when the van is re-started (annoying…air in my face).

    It sounds like in your situation the Auto mode is still on…and puts the heat to the floor where it should go…I think you need to turn off the Auto mode to have it “save” your setting.

    I just leave it on Auto mode all the time…unless I open all the windows/sunroof.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi dtownfb,
    If you want the straight scoop on Quest brake problems go to brakeinfo.com click on common brake problems click on lateral runout. All you folks will see that your brake problems are not warped rotors as thought but lateral runout. This site explains the problem PERFECTLY. Again, how the heck could you warp a rotor on a new vehicle at 2000 miles? It's now warped, it,s lateral runout. Check it out.
  • chuck0731chuck0731 Member Posts: 12
    FYI took my Quest to the dealer today and they told me the SES was on because the fuel injector wasn't working as well as it should. Of course they had to order it, so I'll have to take it back in to the dealer one more time. That trip will make it official; over the two years we've leased this van I've made more trips to the dealer for warranty-covered issues than I have with my last 5 cars (over 20 years) combined.

    In general I love the Quest, and the service dept. has been more than fair, but this whole experience has really soured me on Nissan in general.
  • kaykatzkaykatz Member Posts: 2
    I've tried all modes. I have turned off the Auto setting, but the same thing happens. Nissan is not being very helpfull in giving me direct answers.
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    The site explains instructions for checking lateral runout and on car lathing if needed for a brand new rotor. A brand new rotor can indeed warp in 2000 miles if manufactured using a process that could lead to instability of the original staightness. Lateral runout in and of itself does not develop and get worse from new, it is a function of the deformation (warping) of the metal.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    hello exploder750. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink. A brand new rotor on a new vehicle can't warp in 2000 miles, impossible. Unless it's on a Yugo, even then I highly don't think it's possible. Read the article again, slowly, very slowly. Google search lateral runout. Lateral runout does develop and get worse from new. It starts slowly and begins to become noticeable at 2000 miles. That is the definition of lateral runout. I think you would have a heck of a time manufacturing a rotor designed to warp at 2000 miles. What would you use, lead? Thirsty?
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Are you trying to say that Nissan and all the other car manufactures are trying to save a few bucks on parts quality and instead spend hundreds of times the savings on warranty repairs for rotor problems?Save a couple of bucks per rotor and spend a couple of hundred to make each of them right? Why do OEM rotors cost twice that of aftermarket rotors? No manufacturer would or could do this. The problem lies in the installation of the rotors. Not in the manufacturing process of the rotors. Now IM getting thirsty.
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Absolutely I'm saying this. Nissan in and of themselves are not likely manufacturing these rotors, they are probably coming from a low bid reliable source. In mass production, chances are that a few of these rotors fall outside of spec and will filter thru to assembly. From new, if the rotor face is not parallel to the hub face, or if the rotor face itself is not machined flat, you have a slight amount of lateral runout. This could lead to further distortions requiring machining or replacement. The on car method of lathing is by far the best method, but my prior years of experince with turning distorted rotors (within spec) and having them distort again has made me skeptical of turning in general. No, i would not replace with high buck Nissan brand rotors, I'd search aftermarket. So far (knock on wood) our '04 with 56,000 miles has displayed no rotor issues.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Yes, you are proablably right, I don't think Nissan has their own brake rotor plant but as far as Nissan's bid process I really don't think they are going strictly low bid either. You are also right about a very very few of these new rotors being out of spec at the time of installation. All new rotors must be checked with a caliper at time of installation.Out of spec rotors should be rejected. If these out of spec rotors are just slapped on the hubs at the factory and not set up correctly this would cause warpage. This may be a small part of the problem. I believe the vast majority of new vehicle rotor problems are caused by incorrect installation. The rotors are fine. Many of these vehicles have new rotors installed only to have pedal pulsation start as soon as the new rotors have 2000 miles on them. You could slap 100 sets of new rotors on these vehicles and every set will go bad untill you actually machine the new rotors on the vehicle using a hub mounted lathe. The hubs are slightly off, the calipers are off, the brake pads are off, lateral runout. In my case a 2005 Quest developed brake pedal pulsation at 3000 miles. I thought warped rotors at first but not all the symptoms matched classic warped rotors. At 70MPH I could feel a slight pulsation in the steering wheel without touching the brake pedal, almost like a tire out of balance. Long story short dealer used Pro Cut hub mounted lathe and now 15000 miles later rotors are perfect. If I ever do need new rotors I will have the new rotors machined using Pro Cut. Does this make sense?
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/brakingsystems.htm

    All you folks with rotor problems please check out this website. It explains exactly what the problem is with your rotors. The spoonster
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    Spoonster, I think we're on the same page. Here's some food for thought. If the hub itself has a certain amount of lateral runout (ie the hub face is not machined perpendicular to the wheel bearing centerline) and lathing the rotor on the vehicle straightens out the brakes, what would you do about the hub lateral runout that is magnified out onto the wheel? Your wheels would wobble off of the car.
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    After you folks have read this link, I feel I must now take a humble bow and accept all your thanks for solving this rotor issue. You may applaud if you wish.
    The Spoonster
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    The Kings Royal wheels don't wobble
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    If your wheels don't wobble your hubs don't have lateral runout, Royal One. LOL
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I was about to applaud and thnak you until i saw this post. lol

    that was an interesting article. it seems that the key to the rotor issue is to do the on vehicle machining as opposed to the bench mounted machining. I had my rotors machined back in April 2005 at about 8,000 miles. All has gone well since then. I'm at 37,700 miles now and have done more city driving the last 8 months. I think the rotors are starting to get thin and will need replacing soon.

    My question is how do you insure that they install the rotors correctly to begin with? I don't want to have to worry about lateral runout in 2000 miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    chuck: did they happen to give you a code for the SES?
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  • chuck0731chuck0731 Member Posts: 12
    No, they didn't, but I didn't ask. If it helps the invoice they gave me said "28922 DTC FOR P1283 A/F SENSOR1 B2// TESTED FOUND 3 DEFECTIVE FUEL INJ ON BANK 2 PARTS ON ORDER"

    I'll ask when I take it back in (they gave me no idea how long the parts would take to get here). Is there something specific I should be looking for?
  • spoonieboy1spoonieboy1 Member Posts: 22
    Hey dtownfb, If your rotors developed lateral runout and needed machining at 8000 miles I would bet that your Quest is one of the ones that the hubs were installed slightly off.If you have gone to 37,700 miles after these rotors were machined with no problems this fact further proves my point about lateral runout in prior posts and I would bet your dealer machined your rotors at 8000 miles using a Pro Cut or Hunter hub mounted lathe. I don't think your rotors are getting thin or worn out at 37,700 miles but your brake pads may be getting thin. I would take your van back to whoever machined your rotors, make sure they use a hub mounted lathe, check your rotors with a caliper to see if they are within specs, if the rotors are good just replace the pads and then you may have to have the shop install the hub mounted lathe and run it just to make sure everything is lined up perfectly. I would also use the hub mounted lathe when you install new rotors. If you follow this process you should never again have rotor problems with this Quest.You must make sure that whatever shop does brake work on your Quest has this equipment and is actually trained in it's use. Hope this helps. The Spoonster
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