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Nissan Quest 2004+: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • pulisubspulisubs Member Posts: 39
    Hi,

    My wife drove our new Quest with the Parking brake on for about 6-8 miles (at ~50mph). According to her, it was ok below 40mph but once she went over 50, she got a clunky noise in the engine (obviously). Anybody knows if this will cause any short term/long term problems?

    Thank you
  • quest0904quest0904 Member Posts: 2
    We bought our 2004 Nissan Quest SE about 2 weeks a go. We like the car a lot. However, we recently noticed that the both power sliding doors (especially the driver side) could fail and consequences could be very serious. I summarized below what I observed and I was wondering if you observed any similar behavior. Or, is this the way it is supposed to work (hope not!)?

    According the specs, while the door is closing, when you put an object or apply a force in the opposite direction, the door is supposed to open automatically and should not close all the way. It works fine when the door is about 8 (or less) inches open before it fully closes. But the first problem is when you apply the pressure earlier (more than 8 inches open) it does not work. It keeps closing. I think it should open automatically at any point when there is a pressure in the opposite direction. The second and more serious problem is that while the door is half way or more open and when you put the pressure and keep the pressure on, it keeps closing all the way!!! I tried it several times and it did the same all the time on both doors. I put a medium pressure with my hand and pushed it the other way. It keep closing all the way till the end and I had the pull out my hand just before the door fully closes. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO THE TEST, THE DOOR IS HIGHLY LIKELY TO FAIL AND CAUSE A SERIOUS INJURY.

    Next, I will take the car to the Nissan service and keep you updated on this issue. Please let me know if yours work fine or if this is how it supposed to work in general with power sliding doors.
  • iserumiserum Member Posts: 15
    I have SL with passenger side power sliding door, I did not experience pinch protection problem in door, i did however tested how much force i need to apply in order to reverse closing door and I would say it is a lot, a child would be scared, (i have switched off the power door switch in the door) both my kids try to close the door first when they enter the vehicle and a situation may arise that the door is closing while a child is entering in the van, a three year child can not force back the automatic closing door. I did check this issue with some other people having this options in other minivans they say it is very similar.
    There is no pinch protection in the power windows the windows will automatically go up and no force will stop it, so be very careful when kids are around, Nissan should fix this, i don't know it is a problem in my van or a design issue.
    can some verify one touch power window up function and check pinch protection. does window come back when you apply reverse force on it?
  • david1jdavid1j Member Posts: 6
    I also have the rattle noises. They come from somewhere along where each sliding door connects to the A column when closed (both passenger & driver sides have this problem). My wife doesn't mind much, but it drives me NUTS as well. Next time it goes in to fix the air problem, the problem with the driver side temp control knob and my problem w/ the AM radio, I'll have them look at this as well.

    Great vehicle to drive, but all the little problems are driving me nuts. When you spend $40k on a vehicle, you expect to do nothing except basic maintenance for the 1st couple years. Mine has already been in the shop for 6 or 7 days w/o many of the problems fixed. Don't know what to do at this time.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You have discovered a sad fact about cars: there is no correlation between the purchase price of a car and its reliability--especially for brand-new designs. Just ask a Mercedes owner, or BMW owner. Or check out the problem posts on the '04 Sienna--a Toyota, one of the most reliable brands. The reliability of the second-gen Odyssey wasn't all that great for the first couple of years either. On the other hand, you could spend $10k on a car like the ECHO and have no problems whatsoever.
  • boa35boa35 Member Posts: 21
    Have had my SL for 6 weeks and the 15A "BCM Battery Saver" fuse has blown four times--it controls interior "room" lights and memory systems," e.g., Homelink and who knows what else. Most recently, the Dealer had the van for 2 days but still couldn't isolate the source. They contacted Nissan which acknowledged that this was indeed an emerging problem area and offered them a couple of suggestions, neither of which worked. I've now got the van back with instructions to closely "monitor" each time what I'm doing just before the thing blows!
    Apparently, the problem is not wide spread as I have seen no other posted comments.
  • raul4raul4 Member Posts: 95
    I paid particular notice today regarding the rattle of the passenger side slider. Every time
    I went over a bump or rough spot in the road, it sounded like the door was bumping up and down; as if it not properly seated.
         I have not as yet taken it back to the dealer. I'm waiting to include it with some other minor items on the 1,000 mile check.
  • carmama1carmama1 Member Posts: 2
    My quest is less than 2 months old. Weatherstripping on one door not attached. Leaking oil (rear main seal replaced after 7 days in the shop) now I get it back and the AC doesn't blow cold air at all.

    The car is extremely comfortable but I am very dissapointed in the quality.

    Anyone else having these problems?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i hope the dealership is providing the fuses to you while they ask YOU to diagnose their problem. ask them also to cover the $30/hr -> whatever diagnostic rate too. ;)

    you indicated they admitted this is an emerging problem area, and in a previous post, a fuse blew when opening one of the doors. Seems somebody should have more information on your problem. you should not have to guess what is being protected by that fuse. Nissan should be explicit with you.

    in the spirit of cooperation, i'd inquire if it would be OK to lower the amperage rating of the replacement fuse. if it is currently 15A, i'd be hesitant to be doing continued "monitoring" (that's funny) using anything but the smallest amperage fuse possible (say 10 or 5A) to support those functions. how much current is drawn by 6 or so interior mini-lamps? have them calculate that total for you.

    Geesh.

    fuses blow because a circuit is sinking too much current. the fuse protects the circuit and the rest of the system by melting under high current flow conditions and opening such that the current can no longer flow.

    i am not an expert...but i find it hard to believe any "memory functions" or interior lights draw much current at all, let alone anything close to 15A.

    so anyway, i'm thinking you and your investment are safer and also you're more likely to incurr repeated fails (and thus determine causality) if the rating of the replacement fuses is smaller (maybe 5A). if the event is transient, then a smaller rating fuse isn't going to have the (don't know the term - i'll say ride out) capability of a larger rated fuse, so it will be prone to blow which in your experiment is GOOD.

    anyone?

    FWIW, I imagine some company produces a device that actually does monitoring of current/voltage...a real-time sampling system, that when it detects an uptick in current flow, or say a droop in voltage, starts sampling and storing date/time and measurements at a rapid pace. with it, one could determine event duration, magnitude, frequency, periodicity / aperiodicity, etc etc.

    Tell Nissan you want them to research that and put one of those in your car. ;)

    Not to make you paranoid, but if it was me...

    ...this car would not be parked in the garage until the source of the problem was determined and corrected.

    Something is sinking a good deal of current. Maybe (hopefully) you've got a bad light recepticle which is shorting to gnd, or across/around the bulb.

    Let's say you can go with a smaller amp fuse, then i'd see if they blow with any frequency when a door is opened. i'd also try wiggling or tapping each light recepticle one by one with all lights on to see if the fuse blows.

    good luck.
  • shenkarshenkar Member Posts: 159
    The great Edmunds review of the SE (just out) states that it goes about its' business without road or wind noise. This is not my experience with our SE at all. There is so much wind and road noise you can't have a nice easy conversation...and the compensation feature on the stero goes crazy constantly adjusting the volume to overcome this unwanted competition.

    Any ideas on how to effectively make this puppy be quiet? The wonderful engine is virtually silent, so these other sounds are complete intrusions.

    Also, any idea whether insulation can be sprayed in the sliding door cavities to quiet the rattles and squeaks from them? And what about undercoating to silence the excessive road/tire noises.
  • green_teagreen_tea Member Posts: 14
    My wife has her new Nissan quest for 3 weeks and she feels great about it. I read about the "wind noise" in this thread and did pay attention to it. Last night about 12 pm, I drove the Quest to highway for a test. Going to highway on the city road in St. Louis, I did hear the "wind noisy" when the car surpassed 40 Mph. When I hit the high way, I still got the noisy. I decided for a long drive to suburb of the city, about 70-80 MPH. Suddenly, the "wind noisy" disappeared and I felt very quite. I noticed the highway road had changed to some "coarse surface" instead of those new cement-like road. The car was really quite on the "coarser" highway even beyond 80 MPH. Is the so called "wind noise" caused by the road?

    Today, I went to work with my Honda Civic. It is very interesting that the same thing happened again. When the Civic passed 30 MPH, I heard the "wind noise" on the "new constructed, smoothly" cement road. But the noise disappeared under the coarse highway. The noise with the Civic is almost the same as the Quest (not that much on both case).

    Why did I not notice the noise with the 2001 Civic before? I think I did never pay any attention to it and most of the time I turn my radio on. But with new Quest, I paid "too much" attention. LOL.

    I did check the air-Conditioned Vent and other rattle noise as well. Luckily, I did not find any problem on my wife's new Quest. I received a call from Nissan dealer yesterday and they wanted me to give the "survey paper from Nissan" to them in exchange of a full tank gas. Weird. They could fill the survey with all "excellent" remarks, I think. However, it seems they do care about the customer's opinion.
  • raul4raul4 Member Posts: 95
    A different kind of problem! The steering almost always will not lock when I remove the key from the ignition. On the rare occasion when it does lock, it is difficult to release the switch from the locked position. The manual says to turn the ignition on from a locked position, the steering should be moved slightly and at the same time turn on the ignition. I have to use quite a bit of force on the steering to get the switch released from the locked position.
      Has anyone else encountered this problem?
  • niceguyniceguy Member Posts: 20
    Hi all,

    The engine service light on our 2004 Quest S model came off after 1,200 miles. Does anyone here have the same problem ? Can we reset it ? or we have to take the van to the dealer for them to check ?

    Thanks in advance !
    Have a wonderful day !
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If there is no other indication of an engine problem (e.g. running rough) this could be due to a gas cap that is not seated properly. Review the owner's manual and try reseating the gas cap per its recommendation, and see if the light goes out--it may take a day or two.
  • thedibsthedibs Member Posts: 13
    Well, for some of them...

    I have the SE and I noticed some rattles inside the van.

    As I started hunting them down I was able to get rid of most of them.

    First, sit on the 3rd row and notice some of the plastic covers that hide the screws for the skylights are a little loose. These vibrate when the car is moving. There are 4 of these things, one per sky-window. Also, the same thing on the column that goes up into the ceiling (a round lid/cover). If you open these up you will be able to stuff some "filler" inside that will push against the cover to prevent it from vibrating. ( I used paper for this but you can get more creative ... dry silicone?).

    After taking care of these, I noticed that there is only 1 rattle left. Its minor and only happens on really bad roads. It comes from the front of the ceiling console. There are some screws there and I might try to tight them up.

    I have not experienced sliding door rattles. My Van has two electric sliding doors. Could it only be happening to "non-electric" doors?
  • thedibsthedibs Member Posts: 13
    I had my SE treated with a under-coating for rust and noise reduction. It feels a lot quieter now. There is some wind noise but I feel it is related to the wind resistance of the rail-racks.

    The treatment that I did was for rust prevention, road noise reduction, paint protection, and interior protection (carpets, seats). The paint feels so smooth now to the touch and dirt does not seem to stick to it as much...

    I paid $895 for it in case you are wondering.
  • questownquestown Member Posts: 11
    First the positive - Very comfortable ride and powerful engine. But our quest- the base model( Please don't make this mistake)we bought has a noisy engine (it is normal according to the sales person), and it rattles like a big truck! We took it to the dealer in Fairfax, VA and first time they said they could not reproduce the noise! Second time, they said they fixed it, and I had to take it again a third time!! This time the mechanic took a ride with us, and explained that a big van like this will have some noise, and there is nothing they can do about it! The rattling is coming from the passenger side of the sliding door. We went for a long drive this week-end and it was such an irritation. Wish we bought the new Sienna for the big price we paid.

    And we also noticed the big noise the rear wiper makes! To add to our vow, we noticed the paint chipping from the front dash! Did I get a lemon?
  • shenkarshenkar Member Posts: 159
    Haven't noticed any wiper noise, and our engine is so silent I've tried to start it while it was running (more than once). I've got no paint issues with the dash, but there is no question that there is a systemic rattle or squeak of some kind prevelent in these vans.

    Don't know if it's the big doors or what, but we all need to start making noise to Nissan so they will get on the stick and issue a fix.
  • mikelambmikelamb Member Posts: 13
    I am seriously considering purchasing the quest base model, and wanted to know why you feel it is a mistake? Aren't the "guts" of the vehicle the same in all of the models essentially (other than the 4 vs. 5 speed tranny)?
  • hear2earhear2ear Member Posts: 8
    Got a 3.5 SE in September.

    Saw a lot on the issue of unwanted driver side feet heating. Called 1-800-NISSAN1 since the dealer I bought the Quest from (Stevens Creek Nissan) was being absolutely abnoxious. The service professional, Jason, I spoke with claimed that he heard this from only one other customer. He also claimed that there was no official word on this problem. Can anyone comment on that?

    At speeds between 25-35 MPH, there's noticeable drag and the gears don't seem to downshift. Did the others with the problem get it fixed?

    A couple of instrument panels (radio controls over the driver side sliding door, bottom runners, etc.) keep popping out! Others seen this too?

    Finally, mileage does suck (have a bad commute though).

    I am looking for a better dealer to take the vehicle to and will post after I get back.

    On the plus side, haven't had any problems with cabin noise (could have decent conversations with a full load on the freeway at 80 MPH) or AC cooling.

    Thanks,
    Vee Gee
  • boa35boa35 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for your comments and suggestions (ref #60) re my fuse problem.
    The dealer inadvertently left a circuit breaker (rather than a fuse) in the slot. I decided to keep it for awhile and the thing hasn't blown in a week. Hmmm?

    We just took the van on an 830 mile road trip--an even mix of high-speed interstates and semi-rough side roads. I noticed no undue wind or road noise (never have) and no rattles. I may have lucked out on those problems but I think the undercoating probably helped to reduce the road noise. Car performed fantastically!--tons of room, smooth ride, great handling, and plenty of power when I needed it. We averaged 24 mpg.
  • spoiledleo1spoiledleo1 Member Posts: 9
    Hello All,

    Well after weeks and weeks of reading these posts and doing much research, we decided on the Quest. I just picked up mine yesterday after a long search for the Smoke SE fully loaded. No one has been able to get it here in the bay area for the price I wanted. I got mine for a few hundred over invoice and am very happy with it. It drives like a dream, and everyone who sees it is totally impressed.

    My friends that own the Ody., want this one. Everyone so far thinks it is cool and we as a family of 5 are happy. This is our first mini van (if you can call it that). As I said before I did do much research and reading all of these posts have helped.

    I do have a few comments. I knew that I might encounter a few problems, but also knew that it would probably be with any of the vans I picked. I do notice the obvious rattle noise coming from the drivers side sliding door. Happens all the time, bumps or not.

    I did also notice something strange today. You know when you start the vehicle up, the nav goes on (if you have nav.) and the accept part is highlighted. You can either push the toggle button to accept it and then you see the map as you are driving or you can just ignore it, and it will go away after a few seconds and then just go to a blank screen. Well today it didn't go away. The warning message just stayed on my whole 10 minute drive. Got to where I was going, turned off the car, then started it back up 30 minutes later. This time it worked again, I ignored the message and it went away. Just something to keep an eye on.

    I have not experienced any other problems, including the air conditioning issue a lot of you have posted.

    I just got out of a Lemon with my 2001 Chevy Suburban and so I am very aware of any problem a vehicle has. Have it all documented and hopefully these are just some minor bugs.

    I really do love this van!!

    As for hear2ear post....I know what you are talking about with Stevens Creek Nissan in SJ, Ca... I delt with them in August and had a problem with one of the people there in Sept...Needless to say I went somewhere else. I called a lot of dealers in the bay area and ended up with Hayward Nissan. It was a little farther drive, but Shah is awesome there.

    He kept me posted on the inventory and never played games with the price. Infact, Falore Nissan upt the price as they said they found one somewhere else, and would have to do a dealer trade. I called Shah and told him there was one in the bay area. He said he would try to track it down, and he did. He faxed over his inventory to them and they wanted a 04 350Z for mine. He drove out to Salinas, Seaside Nissan and got me my van. He called me at 9:00 pm and said he had my van. I went down the next day and got it.

    Keep me posted with the door squeek. I will let Shah know and hopefully we can get this fixed. I just crank up the radio!!
  • pulisubspulisubs Member Posts: 39
    spoiledleo1, I have seen the Nav issue a couple of times myself. I thought it was just one of those Software glitches - I was itching to blame Microsoft, being an Oracle guy myself :-).

    My wife drives the van 90% so the only few chances I get it, I try to spend as much time as possible. We did however notice something strange today, something that has been reported on this forum. The sliding doors don't open all the way if you manually open them. They stop after about a quarter of the length. Both of them. But, if we use the remote, they go all the way back. Also, if we use the buttons inside the van (the black buttons to open and close the sliding doors), they don't open/close. Initially I thought it might be because all doors weren't unlocked. But even after that, the buttons did not work. Didn't have too much time to research it today. Perhaps over the weekend.

    But we haven't heard any door rattles (we've had the van close to 2 weeks now). And it drives wonderfully. No major complaints!
  • spoiledleo1spoiledleo1 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the response. Nice to hear, maybe not, that I might not be the only one with the Nav. thing. I will keep an eye on it.

    As for the doors, I guess I haven't noticed the problems you are experiencing. I do use the remote to open and then the kids love hitting the black button to shut the doors themselves. It's like when we are on vacation at the hotel and they fight over who gets to push the elevator buttons and open up the room with the key.

    Keep us updated with your door situation. My little black buttons do work. Just have a rattle in the one door.

    This van is amazing for those of you out there trying to make a decision.
  • vaxukivaxuki Member Posts: 5
    Way to go thedibs..
    You seem to have got to the "bottom" of the problem coming from the top ..

    Edmunds need to step up and so does Nissan.
    I am waiting for my van and should be able to get it this weekend..
    vax
  • mdarganmdargan Member Posts: 2
    I don't know if anyone else has seen this behavior. When I have enough gas in the tank and I try to look up the "estimated mileage" that I can drive before running out of gas: it displays the data ok. However once the low gas warning light comes on and then I try to look up the "estimated miles" left all I get is: ****

    This is retarded. Once the warning light comes on that's when you really care about the number of miles you can before running out of gas!!! Please let me know if someone has this issue or not. Thanks.
  • shammond1shammond1 Member Posts: 15
    I noticed this as well. It might not be a glitch but rather a programed response. I imagine after the gas light comes on you probably only have 1 to 2 gallons left and if you are driving in the city it would be nearly impossible to calculate the actual distance so they would rather not give a false reading. However I have not driven on a freeway with a fixed speed (which would be easier for the computer to calculate) with the low gas light on.
  • hear2earhear2ear Member Posts: 8
    This is one of the coolest features of the 2004 Quest 3.5 SE and we love it.

    Problem is that it came on first for one tire and then yesterday all the tires were showing a pressure of < 27 PSI @ cold. We do leave the van outside these days since the garage is sort of cluttered. When the van and tires warm up, the pressure goes up to about 32 PSI. Finally this morning, I topped all 4 tires to 35 PSI (since the gas station is less than a mile away, I am assuming it is cold).

    Anyway, does this seem unusual to anyone that all 4 tires have low air pressure? Recommended is 35 PSI @ cold. Could this have anything to do with my drag problem I talked about before in 71?

    I am taking the van in on Monday to Falore Nissan and will ask them to look at this as well. I know spoiledleo1 didn't have good things to say about Falore, but I am hoping that was the sales dept.

    Will keep you all posted when I get the van back after diagnosis or repairs.

    -- Regards,
    -- Vee Gee
  • shenkarshenkar Member Posts: 159
    Your van does not have a "behavior" problem. It's doing exactly what Nissan designed it to do. Read your owners manual.
  • shenkarshenkar Member Posts: 159
    Isn't that 35 psi MAX, when cold?
  • snoopy1010snoopy1010 Member Posts: 6
    Have brought the SE back to dealer yesterday and try to fix the noise problem.

    He said that there is a clip inside the door panel that was broken. He had replaced the clip.

    When I get the car back, it was better than before but there is still noise when the car is moving but it is much much less noticeable than before.

    After back home, I keep searching for the source of the remaining noise. Later, I suspect the door is not closed properly when in close position. If trying to pull the door by the handle inside, I can hear the noise. There is no noise from the passenger side slider door when pulling the handle from inside. It seems that there is a very very thin gap between the car body and the door but it is not visible either from outside or inside. So when the car is moving, the door is kinda hit the body with the noise.

    Anyone have the same situation or not i.e. the door is not close tightly when in close position?

    I probably will bring the car to the dealer again (next week or so) and see whether this theory is correct or not.
  • snoopy1010snoopy1010 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone try the auto relock feature?

    I have set it for 1 minute but it didn't lock the doors after 1 minute by itself.

    If I do not open any door for 1 minute, it should lock all the doors by itself. It is the expected behavior?

    Did I miss any step in order to make it work?
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Member Posts: 109
    If it's the same as my 2002 maxima, I think when the display switches to ****, it's basically telling you you're pushing your luck. Certainly the automakers need to be cautious, because some consumers would get upset if they ran out of gas when the display said they have 12 miles left in the tank. Anyone who follows car racing knows that expensive race cars with computerized telemetry still run out of gas occasionally.

    Consider the gas warning a conservative estimate and don't expect more than that.
  • modena2904modena2904 Member Posts: 16
    Quest SE with ~1000 miles.

    I have noticed the behavior that others reported, where on a warm day, with the a/c on, there is hot air blowing from the front floor vents. However, the volume of airflow is very low, and it didn't bother me. I also noticed that it only occurs when the car is fully warmed up.

    To experiment, I decided to override the auto system, and direct all of the airflow to the floor vents. The air volume increased considerably at the floor vents (as expected), and it became cooler, but not nearly as cool as when the air was coming out of the dash vents. I wonder if the floor ducts might be routed near some hot parts that heat the air as passes through.

    Last night, I also experienced a different problem. It was cool outside, ~60deg outside temp, and I had the auto temp setting at 72. Well, there was nice toasty air coming from the floor vents, but the dash vents were blowing cool air. I let this condition persist for a while, to see if it would adjust itself, but it stayed that way. The only thing I could do was again manually override the auto system to direct all of the airflow to the floor vents. Anyone else experience this?
  • marcus219087marcus219087 Member Posts: 1
    Considering buying a SL with NAV, but Hilltop Nissan on Route 10 East Hannover NJ has very rude unpleasant manager called Jeff. Pretended not to know invoice price and played games with us as customers. Clearly, Nissan as an also-ran to Sienna and Ody should have max effort. They wou;d probably be as stupid and untrustworthy in service!
  • vaxukivaxuki Member Posts: 5
    Marcus,
    Had the same problem.

    My Suggestions:
    Go with all the details: Let them know that you "know" what costs are. Research Invoice and
    MSRP prices..
    And if the dealer is rude next time - just tell
    him keep ur car and walk out. Call Nissan consumer affairs and give the guy ur piece ofmind. This worked for me too.
     
    Vax
  • vaxukivaxuki Member Posts: 5
    Folks,
    well picked up my SE last morning.
    ( stephenwb and pulisubs were right about waiting)
    dealer called and gave me the vehicle i wanted.
    started talking about the review.

    One thing - I read and re-read the manual
    Is there a way to get hot air from the "console vents" Those vents get cold air blowing.
    I guess Nissan trusted the "Hot Air goes up "
    and let hot air come out of foot vents only.

    The A/c is confusing to operate and I should get used to it over time..

    Am taking it for a drive and shall let you know
    how it behaves. The small rattle came from the driver side sliding door. Since I had read about it here , I did not panic. SHall make a problem list and show it to the dealer when serviced.
    vax
  • questownquestown Member Posts: 11
    Sorry, I did not respond to this question. The reason for my comment is because we could not add on a roof rack carrier (original make)or the automatic sliding door etc., since these are factory built options. If you are going to keep the van for a couple of years, and if your children are not grown up, adding some options like these make it a bit more enjoyable. And of course the leather seats add to the look, and it is easy to clean.

    I agree to the suggestion to make some noise about this rattler. I already called Nissan, and they suggested taking it back to the dealer. I am a bit concerned about they experimenting something if they cant fix a manufacturing defect, or applying some glue (?) to stick up the panels. I will post my experience when I take it back.
  • quest0804quest0804 Member Posts: 18
    I have read lots of msg regarding Noise, A/c and others. I boutght SL model the first week it was released. I got my first oil change done yesterday.

    I do have door noise and warm air issue. The dealer doesn't know much and they called Nissan Hot line. They couldn't help. But said Nissan know there is concern from customers regarding Warm Air issue. They are not working on any fix.

    If more customers call and register this issue Nissan might find a fix. So Please call. I have a call open for 2.5 months now.
  • vince14vince14 Member Posts: 55
    the auto relock feature works only when you don't open the doors after unlocking. If you hit the remote to unlock the doors, then do not open any doors on the car, it will just relock. There are different intervals that you can set the feature at, or turn it off. I don't really understand its purpose, but it does no harm.

    Vince
  • mikelambmikelamb Member Posts: 13
    Did you research adding an aftermarket roof rack to the Quest or if Nissan will offer this as an accessory in the future? I am considering the base model, but the lack of the rook rack is really a sticking point with me, but if I was confident I could add an aftermarket one that would fit and look good, it wouldn't be as large of a concern.
  • dan185dan185 Member Posts: 4
    We purchased a Quest SE in late August. We had it about a week and noticed that sometimes when you would open the driver side power sliding door that it would automatically close before anybody could even get out of the car. My first concerns were for my two kids and that they would get stuck in the door. When it did close, it wouldn't stop unless you put your arm close to the end of the door and then it would really hurt when it hit your arm. I was really concerned and took it in right away. Of course, the dealer dismissed it as an "intermittent" problem and wanted me to try and figure out when, why and how it was happening. After complaining on the service received, they asked me to bring it in again. Luckily it acted up right in front of the technician. They replaced the control unit, but it was still continuing. It wasn't until an engineer from Nissan was in and they diagnosed the problem as a "dumb" motor in the door. It was replaced last week and so far so good. Unfortunately, I have now read the other postings and realize we have the same problem with the heater/ac running in the summer time. Another complaint I have is that I almost broke my finger putting the third seat down the other night. Anybody else had any problems with that? The latch needs to be longer.
  • actdactd Member Posts: 12
    Many people, including all the salesmen I met at the dealerships folded the seatback down first before pulling the entire 3rd row seat to the well. If you read the user's manual, it indicates the correct way is to push and release the button next to the strap on the seatback first. Then pull the strap to tilt the seat partially down in the well. Finally, release the latch on the bottom of the seat to drop the entire seat into the well. Although currently I don't own a Quest yet, I tried this method at a local dealer and it worked very well. People often complain about the 3rd seat is harder to fold on the Quest than the Ody, I have to disagree with that.
  • iserumiserum Member Posts: 15
    no sound from radio or CD, This happened 2nd time now. It happened on August 1st last time. The solution is to shut the engine off and take out ignition key and then restart the van, this initializes the electrical signals and everything works fine after that, does anyone has this problem? passenger side sliding door problem is the other one I don't know what is the root cause, i did notice one thing though, the wheels which slides in the channels on top and bottom of the sliding doors is too small as compared to the width of the channel it may be moving because of this gap (just a guess).
    I don't want to give my van to the dealership for experiments I am waiting until they have a bulliten from Nissan for the fix, until now the dealersip don't know the root cause.
  • quest0804quest0804 Member Posts: 18
    Nissan will not send a fix unless people having these problem call. I have tried many times and Nissan said they know about the concerns but not working on a fix

    so please call and get your problem registered. They will give you a reference number. Keep it for your status update.....
  • thedibsthedibs Member Posts: 13
    My ex Mercedes ML 500 use to do the same thing.

    So the Quest is to the par of German engineering ;-)
    (not sure is that is a good thing... )
  • thedibsthedibs Member Posts: 13
    Sounds like a bad radio unit. I would have the dealer exchange it.
  • thedibsthedibs Member Posts: 13
     marcus219087 writes:

    > Considering buying a SL with NAV, but Hilltop Nissan
    > on Route 10 East Hannover NJ has very rude
    > unpleasant manager called Jeff. Pretended not to
    > know invoice price and played games with us as ...

    It happens even in the best families. There are tons of Nissan dealers in the US. If you do not like that one, go to another one. Bad mouthing them does not get you a better deal.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Member Posts: 109
    We're getting close to buying a van and had noticed the warm air from the foot vents while running a/c during a test drive. With the other posts here, I called Nissan rep Christopher (x8461) who spoke with their Quest "expert". Christopher told me that there is no known issue with warm air and no other complaints. he said it was probably an isolated case and would be repaired under warranty if it was on my vehicle. I told him about this board stating there have been numerous complaints and he said none on record.

    So my case# with Nissan is 4306098. Has anyone else opened a case# about warm air during a/c? I will test drive another vehicle and probably email Nissan with my results. So send me your case#'s and I'll include them.
  • vanobsessedvanobsessed Member Posts: 1
    Marcus,
    I had the same problem with Hilltop Nissan. Do your homework on what you want to pay and present to another dealer. I suggest Route 22 Nissan, Warnock Nissan or Lynnes Nissan. It seems as though they are much more straight forward to deal with. BTW, we are still looking and have not yet purchased the Quest.
This discussion has been closed.