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Just get the price from dealer, it is $21000(invoice $21897), but have to pay $195 (pin stripes) + $95 (vin etching) +tax, title, license and fees.
what do you guys think?
Thanks
Ask a cop if it's useful.
May I ask which dealer got this nice deal for you and contact name? thanks .
MSRP: $27,990
$3402 off for a selling price of $24,588 + TTL
Another dealership is offering $3402 off all their Foresters in stock but don’t have any limited ones in stock. My dealership is willing to match the price.
Good deal?
What is the securing sensor anyway?
http://www.fitzmall.com/fitzway/locations/makelocation.asp?lstMAKE=Subaru
Thanks
I bought from Autowest Honda in Roseville because they were closer to me and had the limited version.
Deal was this:
MSRP 26,189.00
Cap Cost 23,900.00
Out of Pocket 322.00 licence Reg
36 at $275.00
62% Residual is 16,237.18
Money Factor .00215
Congrats.
I am getting 2011 Forester 4dr Auto 2.5X Premium w/All-W Pkg & TomTom Nav Price with following options
Backup Camera,
auto dimming mirror w/homelink and security sensor,
all weather floor mats,
Popular Equiptment group 1A -inc: rear bumper cover, platinum cargo tray, luggage compartment cover, splash guards
for MSRP : $27,060
Final Dealer negotiated price $23,500 + TTL + Taxes.
It has to be slammed hard for it to completely close otherwise you might leave it
partially opened overnight or longer, which isn't good for the battery.
In my opining, the right way to "slam" it is to hold it/pushing it, while closing. That way you don't really drop it from wide open position .... you don't want the rear window pop out, while closing it.
That has happened to me, too.
My old 1998 model did not, so the tray would slide back and interfere.
Not surprisingly, the 98 would not latch at times, but the 09 always does.
Considering how easily it closes most of the time, I suspect it is an issue with the latch mechanism sticking.
If you are in Fairbanks, I highly recommend switching out all fluids with full synthetic. Your differentials, especially, will create much less drag in the cold weather and give you probably 2-3 mpg better economy once it dips under zero.
So far my calculated average for 22,000 miles is 23.2 mpg, with the warmest six months (April through September) at 25.19 with 9634 miles driven and the colder months at 21.77 with 11636 miles driven. The summer average was drug down a little by our annual dipnet trip, which was 1100 miles pulling a trailer and averaging 17.8 mpg, so that month was 20.7 mpg while the rest were 25.0 or higher. Without that month, the summer average is 26.7. All in all, it is respectable for the way we use the car.
You may have noticed that most cars (no all though) that have lights with bulbs on their rear lids or hatches are designed in such a way that those lights and bulb are not on, when lids or hatches are being closed (like back-up lights, for example - those would not be on, when you are closing the hatch). You can judge the well thought-design of any cars, if they are properly designed, that these lights or bulbs are not on, when those hatches or lids are being closed.
I don't think it is an issue with the latch mechanism sticking. They are designed and assembled with exact tolerances and torques so that other components (such as air bags sensors and car body flex) are not compromised.
Forester 2.5x Limited w/protection group 3 and pop eqpt group 5B
MSRP $27,859
Invoice $25,955
Paid $25,755
Add non-negotiable dealer "prep fee" of $499 (common among dealers here) and in reality we ended up paying $26,255, $300 over invoice
We could've gotten a better deal had we not traded in a vehicle, but that is where we ended up after some haggling. If you're not trading in, my recommendation would be to factor in dealer fee and shoot for invoice as the bottom line.
All weather package
Rear Bumper Cover
Negotiated price of $22,700 includes destination $725 and a PZEV fee of $300.
Consumer Reports had the bottom line price at $22,200, but I saw nothing about whether that included PZEV. So that could really have been $22,500.
Out the door $24,500ish. 6.25% sales tax, title, license and a $275 dealer doc fee (UGH).
How did I do? I'm really wondering how close I got. The PZEV thing threw me, I couldn't find much good information on this. All the Foresters on the lot seemed to have it. I don't know if you can get a non-PZEV Forester in Mass.
Congrats!
MSRP was $22,247.
2011 Forester X 5 speed
* Alloy Wheel Value Package
* Black Roof Rails
* Rear Bumper Cover
* Security System Individual Shock Sensor
* Splash Guard Kit
Very painless process at Carr Subaru in Beaverton, Oregon.
You stole it...
I contacted the dealer and was told that the Subarus have such GREAT resale that they frequently sell used Subarus for more than new ones!
I decided to stay away from that dealer.
Anyone else heard anything like that??
I looked all over the Internet and could only find 4 2010 Foresters anywhere in the country that cost less (by only $200-$300) than the 2011 price I was quoted and the interest rate is higher to purchase the used model. Not to mention none of the 4 cars were in a state near me. Looks like I'll be getting the 2011 Forester.
Just purchased a 2011 Subaru Forester
Auto trans
allow wheels
roof rails
motor
brakes
steering wheel
etc
all else standard. I wrote a check for 23001.47 cents. Talk about a pain. What is with this auto game. I can buy 1 million in gold contracts with just a few mouse clicks but buying a car is a game I will never understand. No wonder I keep my cars till they are dead. I hate buying a car.
Invoice, hold back, "Fees" "dealer prep" "dealer documentation fees" what a load. We all read the same thing. Supposedly a reasonable profit for the dealer is 300.00 dollars. So if the dealer pays 21000 for the car on a credit line of 5 percent then it costs 87.50 a month for each car in the inventory. With a profit of 300 dollars I am to believe the sales people can earn a living and they can pay the electric and heat bill. What gives here?
How much does the deal make on a sale of 23000.00. I am all for profit in the free world but, why the big secrete. I know one thing I couldn't make a profit selling 100 of something at 21000 if I only got to keep 300.00. It's easier to buy and sell something at a pawn shop. The pawn shop does try to add the Pawn mystery fee.
"I will sell you the car for 21000.00". Then I get papers in front of me that say 23511.49 cents. I understand I pay sales tax and registration, no issue there. But,,,,,,,, non-itimized "fees", "dealer documentation fees". What BS. Save everyone the time and just say "profit" and add it at the time of the quote and save everyone the time. After 2 weeks of emails I finally said I don't want to know anything about invoices, doc fees or anything else. I will pay 23001.47 on one check end of story and the rest of this transaction will be by email and postal mail. The only time I will set foot on the dealer lot is to drive away the car. I don't want to even see them. I would rather hang out with rats.
Now, how much did they earn. I surely hope it was more then 300 dollars.
Basically, I am trying to get a better idea of how to use the TMV in price negotiations. Are there basically two types of fees:
1) Invoiced fees from the manufacturer, some of which are paid back to the dealer (holdback and floorplan interest) and some of which are not (destination fee and advertising fees).
and
2) Post-settled-price fees added on by the dealer, such as the documentation fees. Do dealer prep fees also fall into this category?
Does TMV only reflect the average price that consumers are paying including category 1 fees, but not category 2?
In other words, if a dealership sells a Subaru Forester at Edmunds true market value (which is a bit below invoice in this case), is their only profit from the dealer holdback, or is the TMV not factoring in additional cost that is basically profit to the dealer, such as documentation fees and dealer prep fees?
Any feedback you can offer would be much appreciated in my up-coming Forester negotiations!
The invoice price does not include any fees that may be charged by the manufacturer to dealers in a particular area of the country, such as local advertising fees, dealer association fees, or docking and storage fees. Edmunds.com does not track or provide such local fees.
If a local fee appears on the invoice, it is an actual cost that the dealer paid to the manufacturer when buying the vehicle. In other cases dealers may choose to write in their own ad fees on the consumer sales contract. However, in either case these local fees are a part of the dealer's cost of doing business.
Many consumers attempt to determine the dealer's "actual cost" for a vehicle and then "allow" for the dealer to make some profit. However, the invoice price is almost always higher than the amount the dealer actually ends up paying to the manufacturer. This results from a variety of discounts offered to the dealer that do not appear on the invoice. The two most common discounts are "dealer holdback" and "dealer cash incentives" - both of which are available on Edmunds.com - but there are often others that are not generally known and that are based on other factors (for example, the dealer's sales volume for a particular month).
Accordingly, determining the dealer's actual net cost is difficult even for seasoned automotive insiders. This is why we developed the Edmunds.com True Market Value® (TMV®) pricing system, which is our determination of what other consumers are actually paying for the vehicle. The TMV® accounts for the effect of all of the manufacturer's extra charges as well as the dealer's hidden subsidies, and we believe it is the most important price to know when negotiating your purchase.
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A dealer does this every day. I do it once in 10 - 15 years. My last Subaru was 17 years old with 270,000 miles. I would still be running it but I live in a mountain location where there is salt on the road for 8 months of the year. First snow in Sept. last in May. While the motor was running fine there wasn't much left on the rest of the car.
I will only do all this dealing when I have no other choice.
I just dropped 23000 on a new Forester. I have no idea if I lost my [non-permissible content removed] or did okay.
How could I know with this way of doing business. At 57 years old I have purchased all kinds of things in my life. Only autos seem to be handled is such a strange manner.
Let me talk to the manager
I'm not making any money on this car
We paid xxxx, here look at the invoice
We don't know anything about holdback
We have seen it all.
My last 3 Subarus all went over 200,000 miles. My Toyota truck is a 1994 with 227,000 miles. If any dealers are out there is listening I can say I would buy a few more new cars and trucks if the game didn't suck. I hope to run this new Forester for 250000 and a minimum of 15 years. I hate dealing with car dealers that much.
I'm not trying to sound insensitive, but if you are driving a car for 15 - 17 years & putting over 250,000 miles on a vehicle, does it really matter if you paid $500, $1000, even $2000 "too much?"
Now one option is to not go back to a dealer who "plays games" like you say. Now I don't know where you live, maybe there is only 1 Subaru dealer within X miles & they know it & can get X amount for their cars because of the mountainous region you are in. Maybe it would be worth your time & money to travel to a region where Subaru dealers actually have to compete for business, like New England, New York, or New Jersey.
If you had a dealer willing to work with you, how often would you trade up for a new one? Do you pay cash or finance your vehicles?
BTW, you put some really impressive amounts of miles on your cars. What's your secret to getting them to run so long.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
That way you get people truly focused on finding you the exact car you want, and working hard to make you happy, not to make a buck.
Since I switched to that type of buying, the buying experience has improved tremendously. And frankly that is more important to me vs. getting $100 more off the bottom line.
The sales man I go to is someone I consider a friend, when I go test drive cars there he just tosses me the keys and says "have fun". It's nice to have a friendly relationship like that with a dealer.