2013 and Earlier - Jeep Cherokee (All) Prices Paid and Buying Experience

Alivetoclimb · June 2012

I am also looking to purchase a JGC Overland 4x4 in New Jersey. Would you share your geographic location with me? $5,800 off of MSRP sounds very, very competitive. Thank you.

acuracyclist · June 2012

I'm in northern California and there is significant supply of JGC at the moment at many dealers....more than I've seen in the 9 months i've considered buying this vehicle. I'm going to wait until Friday or Saturday and give it my best shot at the end of the month! good luck with your purchase. let us know how you end up on your deal!

jimnj · June 2012

I am JGC Laredo in NJ - what dealer did you use and did you get a good price? I actually want a lease so may be different.

usfan · July 2012

Hi, I am looking forward to buying a JGC 4x2 Laredo, base version no options.

What do you think will be the lowest possible price for such a "base" Jeep?

So far I've been offered around 25k, which is - imho - quite high.
Thank you so much!

seattle82m · July 2012

2012 Jeep Laredo 4x2 basic. King County, WA
Purchased 6/30/2012 (the same week that it was delivered to the dealer)

MSRP 28,120
paid 22,345
(with all the taxes, registration and documentation - exactly 25k out the door)

Seems like a good deal right. I love the car. It's huge and safe and fast and everything. I'm getting about 20mil/G (not so bad with the gas prices going down).

usfan · July 2012

Wow,that sounds like a really good deal. Congratulations on your new car! Hope to get a similar deal in the GA area. Did u order any packages?

amzn · July 2012

hi Seattle82m,

can you suggest a low cost Jeep dealership I can go to in the Seattle area? Thanks.

seattle82m · July 2012

Mine was totally basic 4x2. No additional packages.

My strategy was to e-mail all dealerships in the area one by one and keep lowering the price. I only dealt with an actual salesperson once (in Kirkland) and it was a zoo and I felt really pressured. I ended up buying the Jeep at Puyallup on 6/30/2012 (so end of the month, mid year and right before 4th of July).

I already had a quote from them so I didn't have to deal with the floor salesmen. Went straight to the "internet manager" (I don't think he works the floor). His/Their "final" offer was 25k - 1k discount =24k (plus taxes etc). I left and a week later told them 25k out the door and they agreed. End of story.

The car is unbelievable. Love it. We don't get much snow here (maybe 2-3 days a year) so 4x2 was perfect (and 1mil/G more fuel efficient).

Good luck!

mister_mr · July 2012

I used data from posts in this forum to negotiate a good price so I'm giving back by posting my numbers. Paying it forward. Everyone should do the same.

I purchased a Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4 including 26X and Z packages + 430N Nav/Audio, Single Sunroof, Power lift gate, Tow package. The Altitude is a special upgrade on the Laredo X featuring upgraded black wheels and body cosmetics. Purchased in Northern California.

MSRP: $41,100
Negotiated sale price: $35,550 (not including tax, license and standard destination fee)

13.3% off of MSRP

How to: Go through the forums and find recent MSRPs and negotiated prices for any option configuration of the car model you want and write them all down even if the option packages are different than yours. The important thing is to get the difference between the MSRP and the negotiated price for all cars similar to yours. Be sure to note any deals that had a trade-in or lease component because those can skew the numbers a bit. Try to stick to cash-only or standard financed deals as those are the best 'apples-to-apples' comparisons.

The reason the exact options on the car don't matter for researching prices is you're going to calculate the percentage off MSRP other buyers were able to negotiate and use that to determine the percentage off MSRP you should target for your car. This is why forum posters should NOT post "out the door" prices or prices with taxes and license because those vary state by state and are not in the buyer or seller's control. The most useful way to help other buyers is to post the actual MSRP off the sticker on the car window and what you negotiated that number down to. More details are useful but those two numbers are key.

Take your list of MSRP and negotiated price number pairs compiled from this forum and other forums and calculate the percentage off other buyers got. Note the highest percentage off too (if the highest percentage is an extreme outlier, you may want to ignore it or average the top few). Try to use prices from the same model year you're in because dealer pricing arrangements can change year to year. If you're buying early in the model year then use the numbers from the end of the previous year but just remember your number may be less accurate. I usually give extra weight to the most recent purchases and cars with MSRPs closer to the car I want.

Now you want to take the highest percentage discounts other buyers have recently gotten and use that as your target. Since that price (or better) is where you want to end up, you should add some to it. For my $41,100 MSRP car I calculated that $36k would be a good price. After calling around to several dealers in the region and getting an idea what they had on the lot that was close to the car we wanted as well as getting the best phone prices I could (using Costco programs etc). Dealers were offering around 5% below MSRP on the phone (this is also where the Costco program was). That would be around $39k for the car I bought. In case you don't know, "dealer invoices" are now meaningless and you should ignore them. They no longer have anything to do with the dealer's actual total cost for the car because they get significant monthly and yearly manufacturer rebates based on their total sales volume. You should never pay invoice. Your price should always be significantly under invoice. That's why I just ignore invoice prices.

Try to avoid falling in love with one exact configuration of options because you're less likely to get a great deal if there's only one car from one dealer that can make you happy. That said, when paying this much you should definitely get the things that really matter to you. It's best to make a list of "must-have", "nice to have" and "don't care" options. Being open to more than one color will also give you a better negotiating position.

Next I went to a couple of dealers to get their "walk away" price. This is the price they give you as you leave the dealership willing to buy right now (apparently, but not really). To get their true "walk away" price they must believe the only reason you aren't buying is their price, however do not name a price at which you would buy (they will ask you about a million times). In this visit you want them giving you offers, not the other way around. The "walk away" price is usually given in the parking lot as you head to your car. The walk-away prices for the option configuration we wanted were between $38k and $37k, with the lowest dealer at $37k flat. At this point I've still not disclosed a price I would pay. The dealer at $37k also had the config that was the closest match to what we wanted with the least stuff we didn't want and they also happened to be the closest geographically, so I decided to start there.

I always close on the phone as I like to have my numbers in front of me and the internet to research things further as needed. It also lets me use my wife as "the boss" I have to check with, just like the salesman uses his "manager" (except the salesman really does have to check with his sales manager. That's who you're really negotiating with, the salesman's job is just to consolidate offers and present them for approval).

When I was at the dealership, the salesman had presented their walk-away with great dramatic flair as an insane offer only available right now and not ever again if I leave. So I left. :-) I got on with my life and waited for him to call me back. When he called later that day, I ignored his earlier Academy award-winning performance of "You'll never see this price again" and let him know I was about to buy a slightly different config from one of his nearby competitors. This was my own "award-winning performance" as I wasn't yet sure I needed to actually get another dealer involved to get the discount I wanted. It's less work for me if I can just pretend there's another dealer involved. However, you need to have your facts straight (the actual MSRP and config that's on the competitors lot, the sales manager's name etc).

I opened on the phone with a $35k offer justifying it as a fair price based on the copious research I'd done on similar deals online. In my experience it doesn't help to start with extreme low-ball prices too far out of range to be taken seriously, though some negotiators enjoy opening with this approach it does take extra time and I think you end up about the same place anyway. I also justified my offer by citing other similar cars at nearby dealers that I could get for less because their MSRPs were slightly less. These justifications are important because he needs to know you are serious about sticking to your price and not just fishing blindly. You must have data to back up your assertions and be convincing in your position. That's why you need to do your research. The salesman said they'd NEVER take $35k but that he'd go back and try to see if they'd come down at all from the $37k.

mister_mr · July 2012

He called back after conferring and the sales manager had come down to $36k as their "final" (I always smile when I hear that). I went to confer with my "boss" (I really went to run an errand). I called back and said "the boss" believes $35k is fair but would go to $35,100 just get it done. They conferred and stuck at $37k. At that point I said we weren't going to come to a deal and asked the salesman what other cars they'd ordered that would be arriving soon, maybe we could come to an arrangement on one of those, otherwise I was going to close on the alternate car from their competitor.

He worked hard to convince me that the extra options on their car were worth the extra money. The options were squarely on our "nice-to-have" list so it wouldn't suck to have them (though I told him they were worthless to us). I told him I had to go but if he wanted I would try to sell the boss on "splitting the difference" between $35,100 and $36,000. So we both went to confer. He called back a few minutes later and accepted the offer ("but the offer is only available if you are here in fifteen minutes"). So we stopped for dinner on the way. :-)

Bottom line: 13.3% off of MSRP. I think I might have been able to get 14% if I'd been willing to work it hard with two dealers but at some point you have to consider the value of your time. I really try not to spend more than 90 minutes total on a new car.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Always remember: never buy the extended warranty from the dealer (without researching better prices online first) and always spend at least 30 minutes verifying that every aspect of the car is perfect from nav to audio to light bulbs to paint finish (bring your own flashlight). NEVER take the car off the lot if there is ANYTHING less than perfect, no matter what they say. Always make them fix/replace it first. Once that car's tires hit the street you lose a huge amount of leverage to get things done fast and right (until you 'accept delivery' of the car, technically you could rescind the sale (yes, even a cash sale)). I have never found a car that didn't have something wrong with it. If you drive it off with a "work sheet item" to fix the problem you'll be in line at the service department who doesn't care nearly as much about you. I've had dealers re-open the service department at 10pm Sunday night and get staff back from home to fix an issue (their choice as I was willing to come get the car the next day). Your time is valuable. Your money is valuable. The car should be perfect. Don't take it until it is.

Also, never forget that no one at the dealership is your "friend". This is a business deal. The more you overpay beyond the minimum price they would accept, the more extra profit for them and the less for you. I'm not a jerk to them but I'm also not particularly nice. Any time I go to a dealer to work on buying (not test driving) I tell them I'm on my way somewhere and have to go in xx minutes (usually ten or fifteen) and I stick to it, to the point of just walking out without saying goodbye if they are hiding in the back. I do not have time to sit around at a sales table while they go off and play "let the buyer stew" games. I'm cordial but I don't do small talk. I'm busy. They should be busy getting me the price I need. That's business at hand and we should all be focused on it. When they try to turn the conversation to stuff not involved with the deal, anything from "how many kids do you have" to "how about them Lakers", my standard response is "did I mention I have leave in seven more minutes". Then I say, "sorry for the tight timetable, busy day, so let's buy a car".

scottymoll · July 2012

I'm in need of your guys' opinions please. I'm in Southern California and looking to lease a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4X2 V6. I've contacted multiple dealers and the best offer I have right now is this:

MSRP: $38410 (upgrades include panoramic sunroof, Laredo E Group, and Uconnect 430N media)

Negotiated price: $33857 before taxes and fees (I just spoke with them again and they stated the sale price is actually $35357 - $1500 rebate= $33857)

Lease Terms: 36 months, 12K mi/yr
$1000 down and a total of $479/month (includes all taxes, etc)

I'm really not sure if I'm getting a good deal or not. I'd really appreciate everyone's opinion and advice. Thanks!

stubbie · July 2012

I'm in SoCal too and trying to negotiate on a JGC Overland. Why don't we make a better deal since we're buying two cars? We can quote at your stealer and mine and compare. My stealer says he's giving it for $750 over invoice but the lease doesn't make sense:

$46,900 MSRP
$44,500 negotiated

$1300 down
$685/mo including taxes.

Seems high, right?

scottymoll · July 2012

Yeah, that's a great idea. We need some advice from a seasoned pro who knows leases inside and out. I asked my dealer to send me the numbers broken down and here is what I got.

Total Price: $35,357.00
Acquisition Fee: $795.00
Residual Value $18,820.90

Amount Due at Inception

First Payment: $479.20
Reduction Tax + Sales Tax: $129.85
Fees/Other/Taxes: $422.35
Total--------------$1,031.40
+ Cash Down: $1,484.01
Drive Off Amount Due: $2,515.41 ($1,015.41 your portion and the rest comes from the rebate of $1,500)

Monthly Charges

Service Charge: $440.64
Sales Tax: $38.56
Monthly Lease Payment: $479.20
O.A.C.

I feel like they are playing me. The negotiated price was 33,857 (which was supposed to be the 35,357- 1500 rebate). Instead, it looks like they added additional fees onto the deposit, which offset the entire rebate. The agreed upon down payment was $1000, not $2500-$1500 rebate. See that? What the heck should I do???

sampelle · July 2012

Not sure if you ever received an answer or closed the deal.

I m not a pro but i usually estimate the calculation as follow just to make sure that i don't get robbed when leasing a car.

MSRP $35357 plus acquisition $795 fee minus $1500 Cap Ccost Reduction = Invoice price $34652 This is basically the price you agreed on the car like if you were to buy it
.
Basically you received a 2% discount on the MSRP. Not that great but can range from 0 to 15% depeding on car, offers etc. I am sure you can get a better deal on the MSRP.

You can check on Edmunds how much it's the difference b/w msrp and invoice. Invoice price is what most people pay.

Some cars have better discounts some others less depending on how much the car is hot seller or not and sometimes on higher prices cars you get better discounts.

Some dealers give it some dont that's why i suggest also going to dealers with a lot of inventories.

Residual Value (based on what you said is $18820 or 53% of MSRP).
Seems little low to me. If residual is 53% means you are paying the difference which is 47% or $16537 divided by 36 months = $459 a month.

Lets say you deal a better residual such as 57%. This would make you save approx $1330 or $37 a month and you payment would drop from $459 to $422.

So let's start from a $422 monthly payment.

On top of this monthly payment you need consider that the car maker will charge a financing charge and you will need to pay the sale tax on your lease.

Let's say Jeep finances purchases of cars at 2% interest, that is another $43 a month.

If interest is more like 5% your interest monthly payment be ready to add most likely $100 a month which is double approx.

That said if you add:

$422 monthly payment for car depreciation a month
+ $43 of 2% financing interest
= $465 monthly payment

If you want to add sale tax on your monthly payment add $36 approx so your monthly payment becomes $501

Sale tax should always be paid upfront to avoid paying interest on that.

Your only money down should be the first month $501 and title registration fees which should be higher than $1000.

If you are to pay sale tax upfront you would pay $1000 approx plus $1296 but your monthly payment should go down from $501 to $465.

One more thing. 10K miles or 12K or 15k? that should't change monhtly payement by much, may be $10 more or less.

I hope it helps.

Regards & all the best.

MS

wjtinatl · August 2012

Drove my new Hemi Overland home last night from the Roswell GA dealer. A flat $6k off the sticker of $43,485. Some haggling as I had no trade and wanted to pay cash, apparently $2k comes back in trade-in bonus and finance company kickback. I ended up financing the car which I'll pay off next month so my cost there is almost nil. Probably left a few hundred bucks on the table but I didn't want to waste an entire evening haggling over the last dime. Got the Black Forest Green with the Saddle/Black interior. That, the Hemi and Trailer Tow package were the only options. Overall a beautiful car, and it returned an even 20 mpg on the 400 mile interstate drive back down to the Florida panhandle.

autoal · August 2012

Car_Man (and other consumers),

Can you provide me with the money factor and residual on a 2012 GC Overland V8? I understand Jeep relies upon several financing institutions. For example one quote was MF .0012 and 52% and another was .00001 and 45%. Just looking for best deal. Thanks for your help.

Brooklyn dude.

vik2127 · August 2012

wow! 25k out the door.. looks like a sweet deal if including taxes. is this a 2012 model ? congrats on your new car.

sams00 · September 2012

Just purchased an Overland GC in Fayetteville, NC. Black exterior, black stitched leather interior, panoramic roof, tow hitch, and all other Overland options. 4x4 v6 model. Final price before tax/tag was $38,510 (~13% off MSRP).. how'd I do?

bigdjeep · September 2012

Im in the market to purchase a 2011 or 2012 Pre-owned JGC for my wife. I'm located in Dallas, TX and curious to get some recent data points or buying experiences on how far dealerships come off their stated retail price. we are open to looking at cars within 250 miles of Dallas so also trying to get a feel of how much "room" is padded into the deletes Pre-owned stated Internet price.

Looking for a model with under 25,000 miles. Appreciate any comments/guidance.

Big D Jeep

ex_jeeper · September 2012

I have been a Jeep Driver for OVER 25 years. Bought a high end Overland GC in May 2011. The first problem was the paint bubbled in literally hundreds of places around the shifter. They replaced that, but then the cubby door in front of the shifter didn't open properly afterwards. About 9 to 10 months down the road, the Jeep started to unlock itself. This got worse, MUCH worse over the next few months sometimes happening 4 to 6 times a day. It happened when in the vehicle sitting at a WAWA numerous times. One time I came out and found the hatch open. By then I would carry the fob like it was a piece of fine glass to be sure it did not rub against anything. It did not matter. Dealer gave some lame story that was completely unacceptable. Trans shifted VERY hard on many occasions, usually at a very low speed, with a resounding clunk that could only lead to problems down range. Gas mileage sux. Like others I found myself putting my foot into it to get it off the line. After just 17 months of ownership, reading of others issues, and the vehicle not able to stay locked hundreds of times, I bailed. What a dam shame. Went to a Lexus and doubt I will return to Jeep anytime soon if ever now.

ex_jeeper · September 2012

At trade in, my Jeep GC had just shy of 21000 miles. UGH !Oh yeah, the leather on the seat from just this little mileage was already showing far too much wear !

stever · October 2012

If you bought a new Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep or Fiat "special edition" model in the past year or so - or if you are a dealer who sold one - a reporter would love to hear about it. Please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, October 10, 2012 with your daytime phone number and a brief description of the car and your experience with it.

konradlv · October 2012

Did you buy 2012 or 2013?
I am looking at 2013 mineral grey with black interior.
Msrp is $46015
What is a good deal in your opinion?

sams00 · October 2012

I would shoot for 13% off MSRP - so $40k or less. Mine was a 2012

dan1mgh · October 2012

I just wanted to get some info out to people regarding my 2011 Jeep Overland V6. We purchased in Sept 2010. First, I want to say I have never had a problem with prior Jeeps I've owned, ever. We purchased our Overland for 39k, which was a great price at the time, although I don't remember the details at that time, I know I was quoted one price by the sales guy and of course the finance guy had a different number..All I remember is feeling terrible when I felt, drained..
Everything was fine for the first 25k miles, then we had a check engine light, I did a little investigation, I find out that there are problems with the cylinder heads..Sure enough, that's what it was, the jeep was fine otherwise I would have never known.. As we financed this vehicle, I was worried, after my warranty runs out are all the cylinders going to do this? While we were fighting with service people to find an appointment to replace it, we notice now the rear window is opening on its own..this is a major issue as I had to call aaa to have a jump start after work... it does this several times a day..
Well, that was the last draw, I don't want to be stuck with a lemon after the warranty runs out. Today I went to my dealer and worked a lease.. From what I've read, the 12 and 13's are not having these issues.. I just worked a deal on a new 2013 Overland black on black 44k sticker, I got for 40k, traded the 2011 Overland with 26k miles engine light on, I owed 29500, they gave me 32k, my lease came to 465$ month..
As usual, they gave me some #$&@ and tried to get me to pay 491$, I didn't budge this time, after an hour of haggling, I walked out with my 465$.. they will try and say anything, it's insane.. Well, thanks for reading, and remember, always go to a couple dealers and work it, I had another dealer quote me 525$,.... Shop Around.

bobby_4n · November 2012

$21.5K for a limited w/ 68K and the 3.0 diesel engine. This should hold me until the '14 diesels come out.

bobby_4n · November 2012

2008

amyct · November 2012

We're about to lease a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee in CT.
MSRP - $34,010.00
Selling Price - $31,100.00

$2,500.00 Down - 12K Miles a Year -
$389.00 per month includes taxes, dealer fee and registration.

How does this deal seem? We're going to try to get the $ down to $2,000.
Thanks!

mingy · November 2012

We just bought a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited, 5.7L) in NC.

MSRP - $44,800.00
Selling Price - $38,760.00 (13.48% off MSRP), plus 4 additional oil changes (8 in total)

So, OTD Price - $40,500.00, with 8 free oil changes

Thank you!

thedeuce30 · November 2012

This past weekend my wife and I leased a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

X Package (leather, nav, sunroof)

Dealer threw in Rear DVD Entertainment Center to be installed.

36 months @ 10k miles per year

$1k down

$437.60 a month

chryslergroup · November 2012

Hello thedeuce30!

Congratulations on your 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee purchased. Great vehicle and sounds like you negotiated a good deal.

Enjoy driving your Jeep!

Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC

jeffnyc · November 2012

Trading in a lease with $4800 in payments left.
Trade in has appx $21k buyout and dealer says its only worth $17k
'11 Honda Accord EX-L........ok fine...so I guess I gotta come out of pocket somewhat to get out of this current lease?

New Lease on '13 JGC ALTITUDE MSRP $41,080
They want $505 per month 39mos 12k miles per year
And they want $2,495 down plus first month at signing for total of 3k plus Reg costs ...which I gotta pay anyway so that's fine ...only about $130 for NY Reg.

I've been shopping dealers for a month and this is one of the better deals I've negotiated as 3-4 other dealers would not be in this neighborhood price wise.

I don't feel like its a great deal...I'm wondering if getting out of the current lease on the Honda is really hurting my deal or if they are just blowing smoke.

I would feel more comfy with $450 per month and 2k down but no dealer to date has accepted that offer so maybe this is where I'm gonna be to get this truck. It's a beautiful truck..but....

Anyone with some insight would be greatly appreciated . Thanks.....Jeff

jeffnyc · December 2012

MSRP $41,080

Total out of pocket at signing
$1,708 Down
$1,677 Tax
$525 First Payment
$140 Registration
----------------------
$4,000

$525/ 36 months/ 12k miles

It feels high but I also traded in my 2011 Honda lease with $4,850 left in payments and a buyout of $21,600 on a car that really might only hold $19,000+ value in the re-sale market.

If I just walked in without the Honda and $0 down I might have got it for $450-475 a month and would have saved the Down payment, tax, and first payment up front......I think. Honestly I don't even care...this truck is on FIRE!!!

In my opinion if you can stay sub $500 a month with nothing out of pocket at signing then u got a decent deal. Keep in mind they have plenty of Laredo X trucks that u can definitely steal for a very fair price.

Good luck..hope this helps......Happy Holidays

chwtom · December 2012

I just traded in a 2012 JGC Overland 4x4 with 10k miles and bought a new 2013 JGC Overland 4x4 (don't ask why, long story).

I was given 36,000 for my 2012 overland. This is equal to the KBB trade-in value in "very good" condition.

For the 2013 Overland, the one I am purchasing has an MSRP of 45,265. They gave a discount of 2830 off of that, then took off another $2500 in rebates/incentives (500 in customer cash, 500 for financing without using one of the promo rates, 1000 in lease conquest (my wife leases her car), and 500 from a promotional mailer--jeep can search to see if you qualify for that based on your address.

Final price is 39,935, not including TTL.

If you haven't used it yet, the website truecar.com gives you a bell-curve of prices paid nationally and locally for any configuration of any car. I found that, along with these forums, useful in finding a fair price.

chryslergroup · December 2012

Hello chwtom,

Sounds like you did your homework and went to the dealer prepared to purchase the 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Hope you enjoy driving your 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee!

Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC

jeepheep62 · December 2012

I wanted to post this to see if I could get some feedback from you guys. (Great write up mister mr!) I just walked away from an offer and need a sanity check. I am located in MA and was dealer with jeep dealers in state. Basically a dealer I was trying to work with was only willing to go 9% off of list. This was end of month (last 2 weeks) in december 2012. It was on a loaded up Grand Cherokee laredo. (tow, leather, sun, quadra-2) I did ping other dealers but no one had the exact config. This dealer has 2 or 3 of this config sitting on their lot.

MSRP: $40,775.00
Their offer they would not budge off of: $37,000.00 (plus tax, title etc)

I offered 14% off, was willing to bump up to 13%. They would not budge at all. I walked away from this offer.

Am I being unreasonable?

(I think they start placing orders for 2014s in late Jan or Feb. Those have a slight change to the body style and CRD will offer big jump in mileage.) Any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated.

peddler3 · January 2013

I don't think so. Check if you are part of the Chrysler Affiliates program through your company. You can get it at 1% below invoice. If not subscribe to Tread Lightly for $25 and you can get their affiliates discount. There is a lot of great info at Jeepgarage.com. Look under the Grand Cherokee WK2 section.

musicitytiger · January 2013

That's a very good deal, and way to use your on-line resources. Also, the site voiceofthedriver.com can be a useful tool.

The best deal they show for a 13 Overland 4x4 is $39,935 from Acadania Dodge in Lafayette, LA. Sounds like you got one of the best deals in the country, you should share your deal and help others in your area.

jeep2014 · January 2013

MSRP $43680 paid $37900 w 24h package (V8 Hemi) and Luxury Group II.

I will never ever recommend this dealership to anyone. (bayside jeep, queens, ny).
I negotiated price over the phone. They told me that they had vehicle in stock. It was totally a lie. it took me over an hour to get there.. i get there they are trying to tell me that the price was wrong and that they dont have car in stock. good thing i had the salesman that i was talking on the phone email me the price and that they had in stock.
i haggled for 2 hrs w the manager anf finally they relented and told me that they would locate car. I got it 2 days later. If i had to do it all over again I would have paid the extra $1k to go to the dealer that was 10 minutes away from me and i wouldnt have wasted 2 days of back and forth and kept my sanity.

camrydc · March 2013

just purchased this yesterday. With a lot of haggling and two trips to the dealership (I walked away from their final offer first time) they called me back and I got the jeep for 39,100. MSRP was 43,870. Got it at Koons Tysons VA and to say that this was the worst buying experience is an understatement. They listed a "WOW" price of 39,237 online and I called the dealer and we agreed on a price of $38,000. I get there and they try to include a $499 processing fee and roll back in the destination charge of $995. But the WOW price savings listed included the $995. So suddenly my 38k deal went to $39,500. After I leave, the dealer calls me back and we settle on the $39,100. So the wife has to drive me over to Virginia again and we want to do the deal quickly. We were paying cash so we figured maybe 20 minutes and we would be out of there. We have kids at home and we needed to get back. They put us in a customer lounge for almost two hours before the guy comes to get us to have us do the paperwork and get our check. We could see other customers sitting in these offices and they were in there for a couple of hours. Turns out they were getting upsold on extended warranties and who know what else. I actually felt sorry for them. Then this guy starts in on us and we quickly let him know how irritated we are and how we are not interested in the extended warranties. He tells us he is obligated to go over the warranties because the dealership would face liability if it wasnt presented to us. So he just keeps talking and I take out my phone and start checking emails etc. When he realizes he isnt getting anywhere he wrapped it up pretty quickly.

Compare this with my wife's recent purchase of a BMW where I did the deal over the phone and they actually drove the car to my house and the salesperson did the paperwork with us at our kitchen table in 20 minutes.

The Jeep has the sunroof, nav, 20 inch wheels. Has the new 8 spd transmission. Got the green exterior which is so dark its hard to tell if its black or green. First jeep that I have owned and first american car in many years.

ken2322 · April 2013

Just purchased a 2013 Overland Summit 6cyl w/everything MSRP $50,385 for $44,550. This was a demo with 3000 mi. But still about $2000 under True Car target price. This is our 4th Jeep - 1984 Cherokee, 1993 JCG Laredo, 2001 Laredo F (X today). I really wanted a 2014 Overland 6cyl w/8 speed, but the new colors, especially interior were too extremely dark or light. It was stupid of Jeep to discontinue the New Saddle/Black interior and Mineral Grey exterior. Since you can no longer order the 2013, I searched all over the Washington/Baltimore area to find what I think was the last one with this color combo. Overall a pretty good deal - no haggling, did trade in our 2001 with only 81,000 mi. for $4000 so probably left $1500 to $2000 on the table there. Received a lot of other offers in similar range for the 2013s which seem to be deeply discounted now due to early release of 2014s. I was disappointed that both Edmunds and True Car require one to include their phone number, and don't allow you to detail options very well. As a result, the phone was ringing off the hook the next morning after I had posted, and my wife wasn't too happy. I had to email each and every one of them to clarify specs and ask that they email response & not phone me. That was actually more of a headache than talking with the dealers. Having found "The One" we are pretty happy with our deal. I was disappointed that as a 4 time Jeep purchaser, I was ineligible for any of the discounts/rebates currently offered. As a loyal 29 year Jeep driver, I can only compare this to the cable companies giving discounts to new customers and thumbing their nose to loyal customers. Shame on you Jeep for this practice, for discontinuing the best color options you had - and going boring on color choices. Shame on you Edmunds and True Car for giving my phone number out to 5 dealers each and not allowing me to refine colors/options more clearly. I came pretty close to buying an X-5 instead.

blx · May 2013

Apr 27, 2013 (12:34 am)
Im looking at purchasing a new 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit. The car was broken into after it was produced before it was delivered and the factory repaired the vehicle. The dealer than bought the vehicle from a Chysler auction. The car has less than 10 miles. The wheels were stolen and some damage was done to the door. Most importantly the radio/information system was ripped out of the dash. Everything was repaired and the dealer supplied me with an itemized list of what was repaired. Total cost of factory repairs was between 4 and 5 thousand. It has full factory warranty on it. The estimated fair price of this vehicle now, is approx 46000, the dealer wants to sell it for 42000. I am in process of doing a check on the VIN to make sure its clean.
My questions...
Is this a fair discount for a vehicle damaged like this?
What was the estimated discount the dealer bought this vehicle for?
Is there anything else i need to be aware when buying a repaired new vehicle like this i need to be aware of?

Thanks for any informed Input
BLX

PS I said i was a little uncomfortable with the damage and was wondering if they could throw in the extended warranty at cost. They offered a 80month/100,000 through zurich with a 100 deductable. Said their cost was 2600 and give it to me for 1300. Is that a fair deal?

car_enthuzed · May 2013

camrydc: I'm considering a Jeep and BMW. Which BMW dealership did you work with and would you recommend? Thanks!

camrydc · May 2013

I purchased my 535x through Passport BMW in Maryland. Never actually went to the dealer. They had great inventory and had the exact model I wanted. Go to any BMW dealer and pick out what you want. Make, model color etc. Then see if Passport has it. Really shop around first and then lowball them on the offer. You will be surprised what they will agree to. Tell the salesperson on the phone to run the number by the manager.

camrydc · May 2013

2014s are out so I don't think this is a great deal. Plus the damage will end up on a carfax report making resale problematic. The 2014s also have a new 8speed transmission and the display screen for nav/radio/climate is much larger and better. I think if you push hard you can get 10-11% off of MSRP on an undamaged new model. So an Overland going for around 48k you should be able to get for 43k.

f1freak · May 2013

I just completed the deal for a black on black 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4X4 with the V8 Hemi engine in the Seattle area. I initially wanted to make a deal on a 2013 Overland that was on a different dealer's website, but then I saw a deal on this dealership's website for $3500 off of invoice on 2014 Grand Cherokees, including the $500 graduate incentive.
The MSRP was $49,185 and was priced at $43,212. I told the dealership that I wouldn't step foot on the lot unless they sent me all of the numbers, and when they did I went immediately to complete the deal. The vehicle was still in transit when I initially wanted to see it, but they "rushed" it in within two days.
The dealer waived an added on $395 for window etching (an apparent theft deterrent) that I told them not to do since the vehicle was not on yet their lot (but they still did), and when they told me that the graduate incentive didn't cover my vehicle, they still took the $500 off.
One other dealership in Kirkland, WA that I visited before I talked to Tacoma Dodge said they would match the $3500 off price, but played games when it came time to talk numbers, so I walked immediately.
I am not sure how Dodge Tacoma made the deal work on a popular new vehicle, but I am happy they did.

mfgjeeplease · May 2013

Hello!

Does anyone know the May 2013 lease rates (money factor and residual value) for a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2WD V6? I am considering both a 24 month and 36 month lease at 15,000 miles per year. Also what kind of sales prices are people getting?

I am looking at vehicle with an MSRP of $38,680.

Thank you!!

Mike

bbarnhart · July 2013

I'm about to buy a 2012 Grand Cherokee (Laredo) with the X package (limited)...10200 miles on it. Looks Brand New. Total with tax and tags is $30,500. This thing is loaded...but I don't want to make a bad decision.

Please offer me advice if this is a good (or bad) deal...

Thanks,
Brian

unsurenj · August 2013

Hey, how much should I pay for a JGC Limited V6 with or without navigation? Is it crazy to think I could pay 36,000?

stever · September 2013

A reporter is looking to talk with someone who is in the market right now for a big SUV. If you think you can help, please contact pr@edmunds.com by the end of the day on Wednesday, September 11, 2013.

2013 and Earlier - Jeep Cherokee (All) Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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