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Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions
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Comments
I learned this the hard way, somehow I got out of the mess with the car in one piece, but I will be ordering my winter tires soon!
Now, in 10 degree weather, it won't start at all. I hate this car now.
No way should you have to take the oil cap off every time you drive like the next guy suggested.
I owned 2 twin turbo RX-7s and this care isn't even close to the performance of the old ones, though I knew that when I bought it. Don't bother telling us about your old RX-7s in comparison to this one, its a whole 'nother dog.
Mac in Michigan
Good luck with yours. I just wrote my review. The tires are HORRIBLE in snow but driving with 200lbs of sandbags in my trunk help.
Besides this problem, now when i am accelerating I hear what would be a pinging noise if the engine were a piston engine. I haven't brought it to the dealer about this, but everytime I go back to the dealer they make it seem like I am crazy and complaining about nothing. My worhtless extended warranty is really starting to piss me off. Anyone have any ideas what these noises are or if you had similar cases.
PF Flyer
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Also can anyone point me to the proper place to post an ad for selling a rear spoiler for the RX8
Love to drive again!!!!!
Second, you can now get a white car, but no longer the yellow.
As far as I know those are the only differences, other than the difference of one in the model year designation ;-).
Thank you,
Joe
We have been told the oil light problem was corrected with a recall and change of the oil pan, therefore the new 2004 car we are considering buying would not have this problem. Is that true?
In addition, we were told there was a recall in June and the gas-air mixture was changed to solve the failure-to-start problem after cold shutdowns. Is that true? Does it work?
We were told that the procedure in the Mazda manual to start a flooded car does, in fact, start the car when it seems unable to start -- unless the spark plugs are badly fouled. Is that true?
The fuel-air mixture change you refer to was one of three, if memory serves. You want to make sure you have the "M" flash. This can be done to any production date car, and any authorized dealer can do it. The "M" flash went a long way to correct the flooding issure, but you can still flood the car. Hot plugs in the winter help as well. The "M" flash added a delay in the cold rev. up on starting, and that made the biggest difference to avoiding flooding, not the mixture change (previous flashes would try to rev. up the engine immediatly, and if it wasn't actually running that would flood it).
The car can be started once flooded, but it requires patience and perseverence. A good battery is necessary as it takes a few minutes of cranking (in bursts as per the manual). Fouled plugs is a primary cause after too much fuel - and too much fuel is a cause of fouled plugs. Plug heat range is a contributing factor. If you live in the south, you shouldn't need to change plugs, but if you live in the north changing the plugs for winter can greatly reduce fouling and flooding.
I also complained to mazda that I purchased mine after the H/P by back settlement, the window sticker was not changed to reflect the down-rated H/P Mazda says sorry, you should have been told, and by the way, I never had a short start problem until Mazda had the dealer try to avoid the court apperance by putting a new flash on it, there were two listed on the notification from Mazda, it said if the "M" was present nothing was to be done,it had the m on it but Mazda wanted them to try something else, don't recall at the moment what it was but it did nothing for the idle but caused the short start problem.
I am only waiting for the judges decission so I can get rid of it and i will never buy another Mazda.
I would seriously avoid the RX8.
I wish people would stop using figures for what they are not intended. The mileage figures were intended to be a govt. figure - for whatever that is worth!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
This is my third RX8. I went with the lease to reduce my monthly payments went from 585 to 335 and got a 24 month term. I usually turn my cars over every two years or less so the length of the lease fit me fine. At the time Mazda was providing a lot of factory money on short term leases. I like the car, not as much as I liked my RX7 (93) but it is nice. Gas mileage stinks IMO. I average 19-20 when I don't push the car. Good luck on your decision. If you can get a short term lease it probably is a good way to go. Otherwise buy. Tony
Tony B
Let's say though, you are not rational, just an environmental activist who wants to make a statement. Unfortunately, most environmental activists don't really understand the free market system, and again, by buying Prius, they prove they don't get it. If you warp the free market by generating demand for a car that ultimately fails the ROI test, you discourage manufacturers from really, REALLY trying harder to produce a car that beats the ROI equation, since their low ROI performance cars are already selling well. And because in fact, most car buyers CAN do the math, alternative vehicles remain as a limited niche product for wealthy liberals, instead of a massively popular option.
So stop tying to "send a message" by buying a car that really doesn't compete, and let the free market work it's magic. In the long run, faith in the free market will bring an environmentally friendly car to the masses before "message senders"
In the meantime, I'm having a blast in my politically incorrect RX8....
One further thing nojets didn't mention is you have to figure in the cost to the environment of -BUILDING- the vehicle as well. It takes extra energy to make the battery, electronics and electric motor and that energy has emmisions implications - more CO2 etc. from power plants.
The silly world seen exposed.
I personally wouldn't mind owning a Hybrid Accord (or even a Hybrid Explorer even though it's a Ford), but my current vehicles are just fine for at least 5-10 more years. THAT's how you can save adding too much environmental costs, fully use up what you have already had made for you.
*Scroll to the top of the page*
Yep, this topic is for RX-8 P&S.
If you want to do comparisons, please do so in the appropriate discussion. The search function is to your left.
Dennis D
It seems to me that the car used to be a bit quieter. Road noise that competes with the stereo is rather annoying. Also, when braking normally the car feels like it is "shimmying" forward and back.It does not pull to one side when braking but it also does not seem like it brakes smoothly. Anyone have similar experience, or ideas as to why this may be happening?
I've had my RX8 for about 15 months, and am currently at about 11,000 miles.
-i did take the vehicle on a 20-30 mile highway trip for few days..and did ocasionally floord the car, not from stand still, but just punched it while moving to see the power around 7000 rpmrange...then after about 500 miles or so, read the manual on break-in..and was like Oh #$%^
-will this hurt my car at all...something that will be noticible? such as lower mpg and lower performance?
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*flooding* (i have 2700 miles on the vehicle)
-for some time..i heard this water gurgling noise from the engine, not anymore, but did few times in the morning..and once i let my friend test drive it..(for about 5 minutes) and turned it off
what is this? engine partially flooding? will this damage the engine altough it did start and run fine?
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seems that my car vibrates a little when idleing..rough idle..i read that rotary engine does not vibrate...do all yours have somewhat rough idle??
meaning it misfires (not loud) once a while..im guessing that this happens on all rotoary engines cuz only 3 ignition per cycle..compared to other piston engines with 4-6-8 ignition per cycle..
...did any of you noticed this?
-and i do hear some noise comming from under body...not sure what it is..but when it is cold, i turn onthe engine and i hear these clicking noises...but only when it is cold..
pleaz...some one help me with these concernes..it will be greatly appreciated
The gurgling noise you heard is air trapped in the coolant/heating system. It will slowly burp its' way out. When the engine is cold, check the coolant level and top up with distilled water if necessary.
The coolant level and oil level are the two most important things to keep an eye on with a rotary engine. If either gets too low you can loose an engine. Check them both at least once every two weeks.
You will not hear flooding, the car will just refuse to start. Read the manual. The solution is to hold the accel. pedal to the floor (do not release until it starts!!) and crank the engine for 10-15 sec at a time (wait between times for the starter motor to cool off but continue to hold the accel. pedal to the floor - this ensures you do not get any more fuel injected into the engine - it shuts off the injectors). This procedure can take as long as 10 min. - be persistent, it will eventually start - unless the battery dies before it does. I think the "M" flash (which your car will most definitely have) fixed the flooding issue for almost everyone. Once you have the "M" flash you have to try really hard to flood the engine. I'm referring to the replaceable program in the PCM - the car's computer - this computer operates most things in the RX-8, unlike previous cars such as the RX-7.
A slightly rough idle, a little vibration and occational missing while idling is normal. The rotary engine apex seals do not work very well below about 1200 RPM. Mazda sets the idle at 700 RPM to improve mileage figures, and the poor apex sealing shows up due to messed up mixture at idle. If you turned up the idle you would notice it smooth out but you would also notice the fuel gauge go down as you watch ;-).
If you notice the engine misses a lot, even when cruising, the plugs may be fouled. There are now four heat ranges available - very cold for racing, cold for those who drive fast all the time, medium for normal operation in summer, warm for normal operation in winter, and very hot for problem cars. Don't be afraid to change between heat ranges as required.
As for ignitions per cycle, the rotary has three combustion chambers per rotor and there are two rotors. They turn at 1/3 the eccentric shaft speed (think crank shaft), so you end up with one firing per RPM for each rotor - exactly the same as a four cylinder four cycle engine. While many think the rotary is like a two stroke engine, it is really a "continuous cycle" engine. It has some characteristics of two stroke piston engines because it is "piston ported" (rotor ported actually), with no valves so you can get sonic wave tuning effects, resulting in some sounds like a two stroke.
Clicking noises are from many sources, including:The many warmup solonoids and intake tract valving.
The cat. converter and exhaust warming up and expanding as well as the heat shields that cover them.
The electric air pump runs for 20 sec. or so when you start up the car when it's cold.