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Comments
Nevertheless, interested in hearing how these compare to other deals discussed here.
Deal 1:
Limited, AWD, V6 with included Options:
EJ- JBL Radio
HD- Heated seats
LA- Leather seat package
RL- Daytime running lights
SR- Moonroof
TO- Tow prep package
MF- Mudguards
Rear bumper applique
Current Offered Price: $28,674
Edmunds TMV: $28,913
Edmunds Invoice: $27,869
Deal 2:
Limited, AWD, V6 with included Options:
EJ- JBL Radio
HD- Heated seats
LA- Leather seat package
RL- Daytime running lights
TO- Tow prep package
CF- carpet/mats
Rear bumper applique
Current Offered Price: $28,444
Edmunds TMV: $28,281
Edmunds Invoice: $27,275
I'm in SoCal, and it was a 2006 Toyota Certified Used Vehicle with 16,302 miles, a RAV4 Limited with the V6 FWD engine, automatic transmission in Blizzard Pearl (metallic white color) and Ash grey cloth seats. I think it's very pretty and in very nice, clean used condition.
Additional options included:
-JBL 9-speaker sound system w/6-disc in-dash CD changer
-Glass moonroof
-3rd-row seat, Hill start/descent assist
-Front/side airbags
-Carpeted mats
-Cargo tray
-Rear bumper applique
I paid $19,999 for the car, plus $1995 for an additional $0-deductible Toyota-backed bumper-to-bumper 7-yr/100,000-mile warranty (not third-party; I can use any Toyota dealer for repairs) on top of the 1 year of original factory warranty remaining and 7-yr/100,000-mile Certified powertrain warranty), bringing it to $21,994. I thought maybe getting so much warranty was excessive, but on the CarFax, even though it was a single-owner car and with such low miles, it said that a computer module had been replaced last year, and I really did not want to risk anything going wrong with this car while it was being financed. With TTL, this came to: $23,918.46. They gave me $7750 for my 2003 Camry XLE V6 trade-in (85,000 miles) and I put $3000 down, so I ended up financing $13,168.46 @ 5.38% x 60 months. Does that all sound reasonable to you? I have only had the car for a few hours, but I am very happy with it! It was a lovely drive home and my dogs will definitely appreciate the extra space. The experience was great from a human standpoint--everyone at the dealer was super-nice to me and I didn't feel pressured at all. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the economics end of things!
I've got several quotes from local dealer. One of them looks like this:
Dealer
Vehicle Base Model ..........................: $ 23003.00
50 State Emissions .........................
JBL AM/FM 6-Disc In Dash CD Changer with ... 668.00
Hands-Free Phone Capability via Bluetooth ..
Wireless Technology, Satellite Radio .......
Capability, MP3/WMA Playback Capability ....
and 9 Speakers In 7 Locations (Includes ....
Subwoofer) .................................
Cargo Area Tonneau Cover with .............. 112.00
Multipurpose Cargo Net with Support Poles ..
Daytime Running Lights ..................... 32.00
Power Tilt/Slide Moonroof w/Sunshade ....... 720.00
Towing Prep Package - V6 3,500lb. Towing ... 128.00
Capacity - Includes Upgrade Radiator, Fan ..
Coupling, Alternator, and Pre-Wiring ......
Carpet Floor Mats/Cargo Mat ................ 126.00
--------
Total accessories 1806.00
Destination Charge ..........................: $ 685.00
TDA .........................................: $ 557.00
Gasoline ....................................: $ 10.00
Dealer Holdback .............................: $ 527.00
Whsl. Financial Reserve .....................: $ 263.00
-------
Total .......................................: $ 26851.00
Any suggestions about it? I know that I probably need to pay for destination charge. But why others? Gasoline and holdback???
Thus, the total NOW spent on the car + warranty not incl TTL was $20,804. Not bad, I think, for a Certified 2006 Limited FWD V6 with only 16k miles, especially when compared to a brand-new 2008 model!!! YAY. I am now extremely happy, and can't wait for years and years of fun to be had with this car.
Car ------------invoice $19888
Roof rails----invoice $176
Daytime running lights--invoice $32
50/50 Split 3rd row seat---invoice $760
Toyota protection group--invoice $159
AM/FM 6 Disc in dash CD--invoice $250
17 in. 5-spoke alluminum ally wheels--invoice--$448
Floor mats--invoice 192.50
Fuel surcharge--- estimated invoice is 80% of MSRP- $27.50
A= Invoice price (with options) $21833
B= Holdback (in FL 2% of invoice price) $437
C= Wholesale reseve (1% of car MSRP $21500) $215
Dealer cost= A-B-C = $21181
Delivery charge $735
TDA at this dealer $700 (included dealer prep)
If I had offered 3% above dealer cost, I estimate my price would have been $23900
I got the car for $21750 (which included the delivery charge) +700 TDA= $22450 + TTL. Oh, by the way I was initially quoted an initial price of $22995- got to the dealer, and the sale price was $21995, and they lowered it to a final of $21750)
If my calculations are correct, the cost of the car before delivery and TDA was $21015, which is $100 less than the dealer's actual cost.
Appreciate anyone's comments. I think I got a steal, but could be wrong. I was already told by the internet Sales manager that since this was the end of the month, the initial price she quoted ($22995) was subject to further reduction, and sure enough they were very eager to deal on a car with a third row that can hardly be found.
- cargo area tonneau cover
- daytime running light
- towing package
- carpet floor mats
- and some dealer installed VIP package (the one that I don't like)
The OTD price is 27500, which is kind higher than what I expected. I already tried hard with the dealer today. Any one has some ideas about this price. Is it fair or not?
Thanks.
BTW: I lives in seattle.
The best quote I am getting from a dealer on this car is
$20928 + TTL (includes options, accessories, destination fee)
Configuration I have:
Base Model + Option B (MSRP $480) + accessory Carper Floor mats (MSRP $199)
I do plan to negotiate this price down further but can you please tell me if this is a decent deal? How much lower should I offer to the dealer?
Thanks
Rahul
I've seen it advertise for $19,888 for a base model
And several times I've seen a base model for $18,888
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Is it right time to get good deal in late of July?
2008 RAV4, 4WD with regular option, 3rd row seat, $21,500 or $22,000 before fax and documental fee, etc.
Is it a reasonable price in MA?
Hope kindly suggestion....
Thanks in advance
And $26851.00 is the lowest invoice price that I can found with a sports RAV4 V6 4WD with sunroof,JBL and a bunch of other accessories. I probably will go for it.
$24,500
Out The Door.
Did i do good?
Got quoted
Rav 4 Sport 4-cylinder:
MSRP: $ 25,679.00
Invoice: $ 23,720.00
Selling Price: $ 22,568.00 plus tax and license.
(This price includes a $ 1,000.00 rebate)
Rav 4 Sport 6-cylinder:
MSRP: $ 27,844.00
Invoice: $ 25,746.00
Selling Price: $ 24,568.00 plus tax and license.
(This price includes a $ 1,000.00 rebate)
Phil Reed, consumer advice editor at Edmunds.com
http://biz.yahoo.com/cnnm/080702/070208_dont_tell_salesman.html?.&.pf=family-hom- e
What I mean by below list is this, MSRP on my Rav4 V6 Sport was 27,300. Dealer list was 25,342. Consumer Reports rock bottom price, or what the dealer really paid was 24,328. Consumer Reports suggests anywhere between 4 to 8% above the rock bottom price being a good deal. I paid 24,646. That's 318 over C.R's bottom price, and 696 under Dealer List.
1. Tried two dealers in NJ and the lowest I think I can get is $21,200. One invoice number was $21,639, which is much higher than the one listed on Consumer Reports. Any idea why?
There is a CARMAX in Maryland selling the same thing for $20,300 though I haven't looked into tax implications, etc. Does $21,200 sound good?
2. Dealers have told me 2009 RAV4 is likely coming out in October. Does anyone have any idea what kind of discount Toyota may give on 2008s at that time? I'm guessing they've done it in the past. Although I'd like a new car now, my old Camry has over 250K miles on it and could probably go a few more months.
Thanks.
If I set aside the CR price info, the offer we got is basically $500 under MSRP. That doesn't seem like a particularly good deal, right? Do people think we can get a better deal elsewhere? We've only gone to this one dealer so far, but I'm already pretty confused.
Anyway, I have seen that many of you have used the internet to solicit quotes from dealers in their area. Has this been useful for obtaining good quotes or has it been just a starting point for dealers to begin 'reeling you in'? What has been your approach when soliciting a quote. For example, did you ask them to give you their best deal? Are you willing to sell at dealer invoice? This latter question seems to close the door for further negotiating any lower if the dealer comes back willing to sell the vehicle at invoice.
Looking for help with some of the acronyms used in this forum such as TTL and TDA. I assume TTL is tax, title & license. Not sure of the TDA abbreviation.
Also, anyone have feedback on ride comparison for the Limited vs. Sport. A work colleague felt that the Sport ride was stiffer than the Limited. I have test driven a Limited and a Mitsubishi Outlander on the same day on a bumpy road and the Outlander was a noticeably stiffer ride.
I noticed one comment from a dealer asking a customer as to what constitutes a 'fair profit' Any thoughts on this? I think the approx $700 that the dealer receives back from the maunfacturer is sufficent. This 3% profit seems to be lower than the Consumer Report recommended 4 to 8% 'fair deal' amount. This fair deal amount is also above dealer invoice and many of you have 'struck deals' at dealer invoice or less.
All feedback is appreciated. Thnx.
Please see my comments earlier on negotiating price. It has been my experience that dealers in my area (CA) will not give good prices over the internet. Most refuse to give actual numbers and just ask you to "come in to discuss". Many of them stop responding to emails once I asked for below invoice prices.
By the way, before deciding against the Rav4, I was able to face to face negotiate the price of the Rav4 down to $300 below invoice.
Re Rav ride quality: I decided not to buy a Rav4 because of the ride quality/sound/vibration. I tested the limited version and found the ride to be soft enough over big bumps, but over small bumps (washboard type) or cracks, there was a lot of vibration into the cabin and driver's seat. Also there was quite a bit of wind noise. I was really surprised because I previously owned a Camry 10 years ago which was like a Rolls Royce (smoooooth and quiet) on these same types of roads. I bought a Nissan Rogue SL instead.
Fair profit: Using "gross profit" % figures really make the dealers sound like they are getting unfairly squeezed, i.e. 3% sounds really tight. But keep in mind that the dealers do not calculate their finances in the traditional buy/sell way. Most, if not all, the cars on a dealer's lot are NOT owned by the dealer. They are just "borrowed" from the car manufacturer. The dealer's "cost" for these cars is based on an interest-type charge based on the value of the car and the amount of time the dealer holds it for. To make a simple example, a dealer's "carrying cost" (i.e. their real out of pocket) on a Rav4 might be around $500 for one specific car. So if they make $300 profit on that car, they have a nice return on investment (60%!).
One final comment: My Toyota dealer's sale manager was quite aggressive about claiming I was "asking them to lose money on the car." My response was just to laugh at his face and tell him to "figure it out." Actually I was pretty insulted that he would try to lie to me and tell me they are losing money at $300 below their fake "invoice price". Even though I got him to agree to the price eventually, this may have also influenced my feeling about (not) buying a Rav4.
I am aware of the manufactured sponsored financing $$ which is part of the hidden money. It is in the dealers best interest to get that car off the lot ASAP so that he has the best return on this money allocated for financing. Otherwise; the interest he continues to pay for this car to sit on the lot erodes away his financing allocation. From what I have read, the best scenario for a dealer is to have a customer order a car and take it the day it arrives. That way, he pays essentially no financing and gets to keep the allocated financing money.
Curious...how did your negotiations workout on the Rogue? Was it a somewhat ugly process as you seemed to describe on the Rav?
Did you also look at the CRV (although I've told it's a "chick" car...I'm a chick so that's ok for me) as I have heard it is also a very soft car like ride.
Your impressions? And, did you drive a 4cyl or 6 cyl RAV?
Thanks
(By the way, I really like the Rogue. Horsepower is certainly lacking somewhat, but better that the CRV when considering the lighter weight. I am currently on mile 2200 of a trip up the west coast and so far everything about the car is great. I should probably write a review in the Rogue forum one of these days.)
I also drove the CRV (these three dealers are located side by said in my area, so comparison is very easy). It does not look like a "chick car" to my eyes...more like a small tank. But maybe the "chick car" reputation is coming from all the soccer moms that are driving the car these days.
The CRV pickup (torque and hp) was not as good as the Rogue, but the difference was not extreme. The main problem I had with the CRV was the loud wind noise at highway speeds. It seems to be coming from the left side mirror or maybe the roof rack or door frame or something in that area. Since I was planning on taking my new car on a long trip after a short break-in period, this annoying wind noise really was a big negative for me.
The ride/suspension feeling of the CRV and Rogue are similar in my experience. The CRV is larger, so slightly more "big soft boat" feeling whereas the Rogue is a bit more "bouncy". But both are acceptably smooth and vibrations are well isolated.
(Maybe we should move this post to a "compare Rav4 with other cars" thread?)
heh heh, no business can survive with this kind of profit margin. You forget the salary for salesman, finance manager, people who wash the car before you test drive, people who details the car, the rent for the place etc..... It is useless to figure what is a "fair" price for a particular car. The price is going to be driven by supply and demand in your local area anyway. One always get the best deal by shopping around and compare price in your local area. Once you did that, then try compare the price to places with a lot of Toyota delear (e.g. S. California) and decide if it is worthwhile to fly out to get the car or not. If the car is really hot, dealer can sell it above MSRP, they will. As long as there are people willing to pay higher price for the same car than you, then you will have to wait. Don't waste your time to figure out if you leave a fair profit for the dealer.. They will not sell you the car if they have to loss money.
Thanks for your comments on the dealer profitablility issue. You seemed to confirm my thoughts in that it is vague to understand what is a 'fair' profit for a dealer. I do agree it is about supply and demand on the 'hot' cars and that is where these guys can makea bunch of $$$. I don't believe the Rav4 is in that 'hot' vehicle category. For us near-term buyers, I'm thinking that in our present bad economic times the dealers might be more willing and flexible to make a sale. I guess I will find out in time. BTW, I've been looking for an explanation as to the 'TDA' acronym used in prior posts (2156 from heartgod & 2154 from robomacro). Any idea?
I've been looking for an explanation as to the 'TDA' acronym used in prior posts as well as this post. Can you tell me what this terms stands for?
Thanks.
I like the color. Is there any $1000 discount there on this 2008 RAV4?
If so, I had paid little higher. But I have added 3rd row, roof rack, DRL, floor mats, Rear bumper applique, mud guards and 17" Alloy wheels. Is this a good price?
Now I'm looking for Bumper-to-Bumper warranty.