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What about fuel types & gas mileage?
My Thousand Oaks Infiniti rep suggested using supreme for the first two to three tank fills and then going to mid grade thereafter. Our driving will be city and freeway with no unnecessary quick starts and no unnecessary quick stops. We have a 6 speed stick G35coupe.
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It makes a difference to me!
depart at your peril. also known as, You Too can have an Audi that runs like a Yugo... just run it on 87 octane.
If you are getting anywhere close to 20MPG, then you are really talking only about $0.01/mile more
Over 100K miles, you are talking about all of $1000 in added costs.
Heck, why complain about fuel prices at all.
Same 100K period, same 20MPG and $2/gallon fuel, you will pay $10K in total fuel costs.
You still paid more than that for the vehicle...
TB
I have a must-have list that is a little different than some, though. MUST have blower motor replaceable from the engine compartment. MUST run on regular. MUST be able to play greenie-CDs in both dash and cartridge changers. MUST be distributorless. MUST have easy access to regular maintenance items, including those in the 60,000 and 90,000 recommendations. MUST have side or curtain airbags. MUST have high domestic content, including specifically engine, tranny, and axle assemblies. MUST have decent access to punch a firewall hole, grommet it, and run extra wiring through it and inside the frame front or back.
I got a few surprises, too... like the magic disappearing display on the radio faceplate, but I knew I could get it out and get into it, so I was able to fix it. but I also picked a good truck, and having had the training to let little crud slide that doesn't matter (which started with a couple medical issues of note,) haven't lost any hair over "features" and "improvements" in my ride.
which is good, because there's damn little hair left to lose.
Just wondering if there's ever a good reason to us a HIGHER octane than the manufacturer recommends. (My Passat calls for 91, so I never use 92 or 93 when 91 is available. Am I missing something?)
2) get the extra weight out of the vehicle... all the spare parts, tools, mother-in-law, your usual cliche items.
3) put in a new air filter at least every 30,000 miles.
4) use lightest SAE oil grade recommended and change oil and filter on the earliest recommended schedule in your manual for the way you drive.
all these will make small but noticeable improvements. the biggest thing you can do it
5) tape a raw egg to the gas pedal, and tape a raw egg to the brake pedal. drive so you don't crush the eggs.
all told, this is good for at least 20% improvement in gas mileage for most drivers, and possibly more.
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there is no magic elixir, additive, bolt-on, replacement, or imagined potion or component that will make a damn bit of difference to a car -- any car -- in tune and in good mechanical condition. not one damn bit. so don't waste your money chasing any of them.
I have posted many times on various message boards that I had an 01 Toyota minivan bought because the window sticker boasted 19mpg city. Over the 18 months I owned the Sienna I averaged mid 16's mpg using premium fuel (per the book.) Pound for pound my Tahoe is actually more fuel efficient. Dollar for dollar and based on my monthly credit card statement, it's been a wash since I traded in the minivan.
Swschrad is correct. While I don't go overboard, I do drive conservatively. You can drop milage 10-15% with a lead foot (I tried it through one tank and got high 12's mpg.) At a quick change oil place some kid put 28psi in all the tires instead of the recommended 35psi. Milage dropped 10% for several tanks until I figured out what happened. Immediately went back up after I put the correct psi back in the tires.
Drive conservatively and keep the tire pressure at recommended psi. Having had an Expedition (that I really liked but mostly got 12/13 mpg) I feel like I'm driving an econo-car. I filled up Saturday, the weather was cool the last two weeks so I wasn't using the AC, and I assume I'm still buying the summer-blend fuel that yeilds better milage, I got 15.79 mpg all city driving. Amazing for a car this big, heavy, and powerful. Love my Tahoe!
Also, I believe a light weight synthetic oil, either 5w 30 or 0w 30 will help increase fuel mileage too.
I have had two basically identical 2002 4x4 Tahoes with the 5.3 engine. The first one consistently got 18-19.5 mpg in highway driving. (I do very little stop and go driving in my Tahoe). My new one consistently gets 16.5-17.5 mpg on the highway. I drive them the same (conservatively), always fill the tires to full pressure and religiously change oil and filter every 3k with 5w-30.
My experience tells me that some vehicles will just get better gas mileage than others.
(On the other hand - my new Tahoe does have some problems with alignment. Although the dealership has checked twice and said the alignment is good, my front wheel tread began to scallop in only 5k miles. Perhaps this alignment problem could be causing enough drag to reduce my gas mileage? Could this be true? )
My '03 Tahoe had a 3.42 rear and my Suburban has a 3.73 rear.
Even though it doesn't seem like much in terms of numbers, the rear ratio will make a noticeable difference.
Also synthetic oil might help a little because you'll get a faster warmup generally.
But you are driving a big heavy brick so there are limits here....
Harry
A 10% smaller displacement may have to turn up to 10% more rpm to generate enough thus washing most/much of the gain of a smaller engine........if it gets 0.49 mpg better [2-6% better] you might not see it due to rounding of the numbers on the EPA sticker.
1) Drive convervatively - easy away from traffic light stops, accelerate slowly, don't floor the accelerator to pass, always drive the speed limit.
2) Use cruise control even in city driving. Set the cruise and keeep your foot off the brake whenever possible - anticipate upcoming red lights and turn cruise off - coast to the stop light.
3)Don't idle - start up and go, don't sit and fiddle with the radio controls or your seat belt, try to avoid rush hour traffic, do your shopping at the least busy times of the day or night.
This type of driving will almost make you go insane since everyone is blasting past you (nobody drives the speed limit), but it gives you something to do when driving to/from work, makes you a more alert driver, and puts a few extra dollars in your pocket rather than in your gas tank.
Recent results:
2002 Yukon 5.3/3.73 loaded - 17-18 mpg city
2002 Tahoe 4.8/3.42 basic LS - 18-20 mpg city
2003 Tahoe 4.8/3.42 basic LS - 18-20 mpg city
2003 Sierra 5.3/3.42 SLE - 17-18.5 mpg city
I never take extended drives on the highway.
I've tried some of your techniques although I admit I refuse to drive in summer weather without the a/c. I'm guilty of hitting the gas to merge into traffic, but I always cut off my engine waiting at the drive-ups and use the cruise when it's appropriate. I get IMHO very decent milage in my big 2wd 5.3 driving reasonably conservatively....but 15 +/- city is all I can do. Wonder if my 3500 altitude has some affect.
Looks like the 4.8 by your numbers does 10% better. I suppose it's a silly question considering your driving habits, but do you ever miss the extra hp? I'm trading soon and looks like the 4.8 would suit me fine as I never tow. While I drive like a grandpa around town, I hook up the Valentine and drive 90ish on the road. Even at that speed I get mid 17's highway and mid 18's if I slow it down to 80......love my Tahoe.
With regard to 90 mph. Do you drive that fast on the original tires? I ask because my Tahoe doesn't feel very stable at 80 mph, let alone 90 mph. The thing wants to wander all over the road and requires constant wheel adjustments. I understand that the wandering gets much better when you replace the stock tires - but I was just wondering if you brave the original tires at 90+ mph?
With the elevation, you have a much lower oxygen level - it takes more fuel to provide a proper fuel/air mixture. Just like how the lack of oxygen makes it where your biscuits don't brown and water takes longer to boil and you need to make recipe additions.
I'm very surprised at my good milage. I had often read GM did better than everyone else on mpg. It does WAY better than my old Expedition and about the same as my Jeep GC (six) and Ford Explorer (six). No complaints.
up here in cold weather country, I still see a lot of both mounted on GMs.
I never liked the wilderness ATs I had, just no side grip at all and not useful in snow, and the generals I got adjusted into courtesy of ford have done very much better. essentially no difference in fuel economy at all between the two that I can tell. neither is designed for economy first, they are both all-weather types.
Say what? the Obd2 system adjusts cruise at 14.7 AF regardless of altitude.[up to the 20% limit]
Air density [O2 content]decreases 1% per 333 feet AMSL so the ecu reduces fuel injector open time by 1%.
The problem is you have to open the throttle more to generate the same power at altitude. At 8,000 feet the engine will produce 24% less maximum horsepower or torque [assuming the same air temperature [usually cooler]. Each 11F decreases/increases density by 1%.
I find it amazing that my Tahoe has 24% less power at 8000 feet. That's a noticeable difference. I am almost always towing my trailer between 7500-10,000 feet and have always laughed at those people on RV chat forums who say "you don't even feel a 2500 pound trailer behind a 1500 series Chevy." I sure do!! I have to put my foot a long way into the throttle to make the thing move!
This helps explain my bad gas mileage - thanks!
My Tucson elevation is 2410' - don't know if your +1000 feet makes a difference - but I doubt it means much (but I am not a fuel consumption scientist).
I may go back to a 5.3/3.42 2WD Tahoe or Yukon on the next buy since the resale is still holding up better than the pickups. Too bad you get less standard options for your money every year and the price still goes up. The best overall buy on a used Tahoe/Yukon is now the 2002 model - before the big "de-contenting" started.
I would not drive in hot weather without A/C on either, but most people now drive with the A/C on when it is a pleasant 60-70 degrees outside - I don't do that.
Most stations are regulated once or twice a year and they know when the inspectors are due to visit (usually the state Dept. of Agriculture). This is true from state to state. How do I know this? Well, because my "acquaintances" own a conglomerate of different branded stations in Virginia, Maryland and Washington, DC. Guess what? They get gas from the same 14 wheeler trucks!
In Virginia, they put oxygen into the gas during the winter months and fuel economy really suffers. They do this to reduce emissions as well as for other undisclosed reasons.
Sad and we are all hosed as consumers. If you purchase premium it is probable that it is the same gas as in the lesser octane pumps.
Many news reporters ran lead stories in the 1980's and found the above to be true. I am sad to report things have not changed in 20 years!
we have a small chain of 6 or 8 stations in the greater metro twin cities area that is served from one tanker truck, back and forth to the terminal, all the time. not a problem. multiple trucking companies use the same tankers to haul to citgo, ashland, mobil, BP Amoco, no-name, conoco, you have it, and it doesn't matter.
if you want to know when the inspection service will be coming by to check the pump accuracy and take a sample, look at the bloody inspection sticker on the pump. right over there, by the nozzle. the year and month are punched out. guess what, they inspect just in time to keep the station running if they're legit, because there aren't enough inspectors to do it earlier.
some operators may try to screw you. this will generally result in hot little numbers running like lawnmowers, and that guy will get a rep for "watered gas" or punk fuel. he won't be around long.
where you have 87 or 89 marked (and marked up as) premium, you have an individual thief who probably is also fiddling the books and not sending in FICA tax witholding on the cashiers' salaries. you should be able to tell it by hitting the pedal on your speedster and having it respond like a lawn tractor.
if you think Bilge Billy's is selling low-test as premium, just whistle up the tip line at Eyewitless Action Hometeam Power News TV33, give 'em an interview, they'll fill a gallon can and have it analyzed, and see what results. if you can sell it to them, they'll find out.
if it was dog pee, it wouldn't make a testable difference in the new load of fuel.
do the math...
At 46,000 miles I replaced 3 tires, added the spare. Independent tire man said maybe front shocks are not heavy enough, and allow bouncing...or it's the tires? His opinion was that alignment is not the problem. who knows.?
Friend who replaced shocks said that did not cure the scalloping. New tires improved ride 100 %, but will likely wear the same as previous ones.
I also see one and two section tankers periodically, passing me while some pinhead in front is trying to figure out whether he should let out the clutch on a green light, a red light, or a purple-striped light